99% of the time it's hydraulic, not mechanical. If you've loosened the master to tilt it and bleed, you may have popped off the feed line into it and that's why it's wet. Keep working on it, you'll get it.

 

brake master is wet. The clutch master and slave are dry.

 

Looks like I was right. But I have seen it before. It's just annoying to have to remove the whole transmission to fix something like this.


In the old days it used to be slave cylinders which would fail inside the bell housing so you'd have to remove the gearbox. They fixed that by mounting the slave externally but now the linkage breaks inside the bell housing... so we're no further forward! Keeps me in business I suppose!

 

I see your clutch fork is cracked. DO NOT try to pound out the pin holding the arm to the fork. It is soft metal and will just expand as you pound on it. Pounding on the pin will transfer the energy to the bell housing and will crack and break it where the fork pivots, especially at the bottom, inside of the bell housing. This is what happened to my wife's R50 and much of her bellhousing is now being held together with JB Weld.

Get the Sawzall out and cut the fork shaft, then remove the pin (probably best to do so by drilling it out. You'll probably wreck the nylon/plastic bushings so get a new set of those along with the fork. You will be able to reuse the arm.

Search on YouTube for "Mod-Mini" and you will be able to see Kurt working on my wife's clutch.

Val

 

Good tip, thanks. The last one I did I cut it out, same as you suggest.