R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Please help! codes and new !

  #1  
Old 04-21-2015, 06:17 PM
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Please help! codes and new !

After buying my first 03 mini cooper s a few codes came up

p1241
p1688

Which i believe to be either the bypass valve or the crank pulley

i cleared these codes and now a new code appears

p1239

im lead to believe that the crank pulley needs to be replaced.
being on a tight budget im looking for the most cost effective way to do this. should i replace both? where should i look first what should i do?

are these parts okay?
http://www.carparts.com/details/Mini...3-1927443.html

http://www.carparts.com/details/Mini...EPM312311.html

or this
http://www.detroittuned.com/craven-speed-crank-pulley/

or

should i get the parts from mini mania? should i spend the 360 on the ATI super damper? i need help and im on a budget!

please help!!

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
 
  #2  
Old 04-21-2015, 06:34 PM
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Talk to Chad at Detroit Tuned. He will give you honest answers to your questions.
 
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:43 PM
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Before you go throwing new parts at it, have you seen this: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...39-1240-a.html

Also, the $70 crank pulley seems fine. If you're on a budget...
 
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:43 PM
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Those codes are commonly a crank pulley issue and then the burning rubber smell will come. So we always recommend going to the ATI Damper as it is the best option for long term life and reliability.
We never recommend the lightweight crank pulley as they are not dampened and hard on the engine bearings and oil pump gears.

If you are on a real budget get a good used one until you can upgrade to the ATI.

I install at least one ATI a week in the shop
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
 
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  #5  
Old 04-21-2015, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Filmy
Before you go throwing new parts at it, have you seen this: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...39-1240-a.html
i did see that while searching. how could i tell if its that or if its the pulley? i smelled the burning today so im leaning towards the pulley being the issue

as much as i want the ATI one its just not in the cards right now.

has anyone ordered from carparts.com ? or should i just go with this one
http://www.detroittuned.com/craven-speed-crank-pulley/


thanks again
 
  #6  
Old 04-22-2015, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Filmy
Also, the $70 crank pulley seems fine. If you're on a budget...
No - not fine. Penny wise pound foolish is the term here.
 
  #7  
Old 04-22-2015, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Kahnfucious
No - not fine. Penny wise pound foolish is the term here.
what about the Craven Speed pulley from detroit tuned found in the link below

http://www.detroittuned.com/craven-speed-crank-pulley/
 
  #8  
Old 04-22-2015, 06:53 AM
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That link is still for a solid pulley. We're telling you to stick with a dampened one to preserve your motor. So, ATI if you can spring for it, or a new or used OEM if you need to put off the ATI till the *next* time the factory part fails.
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by PrplPplEtr
That link is still for a solid pulley. We're telling you to stick with a dampened one to preserve your motor. So, ATI if you can spring for it, or a new or used OEM if you need to put off the ATI till the *next* time the factory part fails.
Yup - as PrplPplEtr said -- unless you enjoy replacing crank bearings and all kinds of stuff, most people do not recommend a solid pulley. There are tons of shops out there who sell and would defend a solid pulley (detroit is a reputable shop)...but the pervasive opinion on this site is that a solid pulley is a bad idea with very limited gains. Risk for very limited return.

This is your car, your choices to make -- but don't come crying for HELP later down the road and expect any sympathy -- people here will be fast to review your post history and tell you you did it to yourself.
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:25 AM
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+1 to the ATI recommendations. The car idles much better than stock, and the stock WILL break again. Solids/lightweights are as stated not dampened and will cause other, more expensive issues down the road.
 
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:00 AM
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now the light went away! what is going on!? and its back on then goes off what is happening!
 
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:56 PM
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So i did not change the pulley because when i was looking in the engine i saw that the MAP sensor was missing this piece http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-C...1B16A/ES26326/ so i got it put it in then cleared the codes took it around the block and code P1239 came back what is it ! do i need to replace the pulley still? Very concerded !
 
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Juanton
So i did not change the pulley because when i was looking in the engine i saw that the MAP sensor was missing this piece http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-C...1B16A/ES26326/ so i got it put it in then cleared the codes took it around the block and code P1239 came back what is it ! do i need to replace the pulley still? Very concerded !
I don't think you ever said how many miles are on your new ride. I think biting the bullet on the ATI makes sense as you will never have to worry about it again and the OEM pully will fail at or near 100,000 miles if not before.

If you are on a budget, it's worth a call to ATI to see if they have any factory 2nd blemished dampers. I bought one of those and frankly I couldn't find the blemish and they say they are cosmetic anyway. It was about 30% off if I remember correctly so it pays to call and ask.

But going cheap on Mini parts is never a value decision.

///Rich
 

Last edited by Rich.Wolfson; 05-20-2015 at 05:13 AM.
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rich.Wolfson
I don't think you ever said how many miles are on your new ride. I think biting the bullet on the ATI makes sense as you will never have to worry about it again and the OEM pull will fail at or near 100,000 miles if not before.

If you are on a budget, it's worth a call to ATI to see if they have any factory 2nd blemished dampers. I bought one of those and frankly I couldn't find the blemish and they say they are cosmetic anyway. It was about 30% off if I remember correctly so it pays to call and ask.

But going cheap on Mini parts is never a value decision.

///Rich
its at 98,000. i did buy the ATI pulley but i have yet to install it. im going to take your advice and take this coming sunday to install it.
 
  #15  
Old 05-21-2015, 08:45 AM
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The rubber centered crank pulley on the MINI is prone to failure after many miles. The solution is to replace it with an updated design. Read more about it and with some awesome step by step DIY fix help here. If you come across any other issues be sure to check out our tech articles here for further assistance. We also provide a great amount of Mini parts, OEM and performance, in our parts catalog here for the future.

-Luccia
 
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Last edited by PelicanParts.com; 05-21-2015 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 05-30-2015, 03:12 PM
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This is still an issue. i replaced the map sensor and this piece http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-C...1B16A/ES26326/ so i got it put it in then cleared the codes (disconnected the battery) took it around the block and code P1239 came back. Can someone please chime in and help. the car isnt registered so i cant just bring it to a garage (nor do i really have the money for that). Please help
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Juanton
This is still an issue. i replaced the map sensor and this piece http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-C...1B16A/ES26326/ so i got it put it in then cleared the codes (disconnected the battery) took it around the block and code P1239 came back. Can someone please chime in and help. the car isnt registered so i cant just bring it to a garage (nor do i really have the money for that). Please help
Did you change the crank pulley or not? It was suggested and you informed us that you bought the ATI several posts ago.....
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:00 AM
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i have not. i guess ill do it while i put oil in my supercharger
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:40 PM
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However after reading around i found this https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...39-1240-a.html and this is saying there is a difference in part numbers. Before i had the car one of the sensors was originally a 12140872648 however it was replaced with part number 12140872679. I thinking that the sensor was the issue also replaced it with a 12140872679. i think i should get 12140872678 and replace the one that should have been replaced with that
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Juanton
However after reading around i found this https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...39-1240-a.html and this is saying there is a difference in part numbers. Before i had the car one of the sensors was originally a 12140872648 however it was replaced with part number 12140872679. I thinking that the sensor was the issue also replaced it with a 12140872679. i think i should get 12140872678 and replace the one that should have been replaced with that
I would not recommend constantly just swapping parts in an attempt to resolve an issue that one of our forum sponsors and trusted vendors has already indicated is LIKELY tied to the part that you ALREADY HAVE SITTING IN YOUR HANDS!!!

If it is the pulley you saved yourself a few dollars -- if its not -- no big deal because you will be taking care of preventative maintenance that WILL be necessary at some point.

You can theorize all you want -- or you can go with the diagnosis you were given a while back... not trying to be mean BUT always go with the parts you have on hand....especially given you have called out that $$$ are not free flowing.
 
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