My 2004 R53 has 62k miles on it - have had it since new and it has lived a pretty pampered life and have no plans to ever sell it...great car.

It's time to start replacing some things. One lower control arm bushing is shot, so while replacing it with PowerFlex LCA bushings I figured it would be a good time to put in some Koni FSD's and new strut mounts.

The strut towers are not mushroomed at all fortunately. I just removed the front struts, and observing the strut mounts has me wanting to verify I have the right parts. I'm pretty sure I do, but it's amazing how each old one looks exactly the same - they are not broken like I've seen in other examples - but are more flat in shape. It looks like they came this way...but I'm guessing these are examples of worn out strut mounts? The top of the mount where the dust cap goes is basically flush with the top of the old mount plates. There is no tear in the rubber...some very slight cracking around the ring I could not even see until I removed/cleaned - but no full breaks in the rubber.

The part number on the old mount is BMW 3133-6764884, the replacement mount I got from Pelican is Lemfoerder 31-30-6-778-833-M69 (which according to their site is the right part for the car).

Checkout the pictures of old and new. Is this an example of worn out strut mounts and does it look like I have the right replacement part?

 

The old ones are hammered and worn. The new ones will level out when you put the weight of the car on them.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. This is new territory replacing struts on car myself.

It surprises me these would flatten out so much. The difference between the old and new is around 3/4 inch in height. The rubber on the mount is very strong, I certainly can't make it budge trying to squeeze it with my hands but perhaps with 1,000 pounds on it and bouncing down the road it'll level down.

I suppose this is why I believe I read (not sure if true) it's a good idea to drive the car a bit prior to getting an alignment done to let everything settle in the suspension with the new parts.

 

There is no adjustment in the suspension. You can only adjust toe in at the tie rods. There is no need for an alignment after installing these parts. You can. But it won't change much if at all. I know I know. They always say get an alignment after working on the suspension. But they didn't build in any adjustment. Except at the tie rods.

 

Yes your new one is correct. The old ones are just worn causing them to be flatter.

 

Yep,

The 3/2002+ gen 1 Mounts looks like that new. Old ones will also show cracking and splitting of the rubber on there way out.

31306778833

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31306778833/

 

Thanks Way & ECS for further confirmation.

Appreciate the comment gpwpat - I wondered because it seems as I've been putting things back together (back struts are on) I don't see how things could really get out of alignment.

I'm replacing the LCA's - one of which is completely shot - so it would seem the new parts will put things back into proper alignment if anything. I suppose I'll see how the car tracks on the road and if no pulling or smooth will leave it alone and pass on the alignment. Certainly don't want to waste $100+ and a few hours of my time at the dealership getting that done if don't really need to.

 

Maxw - you are welcome. I did all the suspension parts at once , upper mounts, lower ..etc, lined it close to what it used to be on the tie rods , then had its aligned asap. So its would not chew up the tires.

 

An alignment is highly recommended after control arm bushings. While camber isn't adjustable on the front of G1 cars replacing worn out bushings WILL affect your camber and in turn your toe.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

OK thanks again for the feedback - I'll get the alignment done. I'm looking to replace more parts now and dropping the subframe on this project now...so increasingly more chances something may get out of alignment.

 

Dropping the subframe shouldn't affect the alignment, but if it's coming out I would recommend breaking the tie rods loose, cleaning them up, and applying some anti-seize to them. The tech doing your alignment will thank you.