First off, I have searched and looked at all the sticky threads.


I have also looked up a bunch on google, however, with this being my first time changing the oil on my car, I am kind of unsure on what to buy.

(The main reason I am confused is some places are telling me about some products I need and other places are not listing those. Such as new drain plugs and housings and different size sockets other than the main 36mm one)

This is what I have gathered:

• OEM Oil Filter with rubber o-ring
• 5 Qts Synthetic Oil 5w30
• 36mm socket

Is this missing something and is it accurate?

Also, where do you guys buy your oil filters from (Online), and do you know of place I can order everything I need as one item?

 

Thats what I use. I will say that I had to buy a flat socket wrench and/or a short socket since there is very little room in there for the total depth. I've changed my oil many times and I still struggle to get the filter housing back on the car quickly.

 

IMPORTANT!!!!!!!

The standard oil plug/bung is NOT the mm size they tell you to use . . .

it IS a PERFECT 1/2



here's a pic of a good bung and one mashed by the metric wrench after extraction



STRONG SUGGESTION ..... get a Fumoto Valve . . . qwikvalve

(search on oil change here and you'll discover why . . . )

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the 36mm for the filter needs to be SHORT ... you run out of room fast.

MiniMania sells kits, but not necess' the best price.
**************

I ONLY use OE filters but do work for others and they bring their filter to me ... no problems with MANN

 

Thanks for letting me know!

 

Here is what I use for MINI oil change:

1) Mityvac 7400 7.3 Liter Fluid Evacuator. I bought from amazon few years go for $50ish. it's a bit more now, but worth it if you have old BMW or MINI with oil dipstick

2) Bought that 36mm socket from O'reilly auto store for $9.
With these, no need to go under the car at all for an oil change. no need to mess with the oil plug either

filter I bought from online store like pelican, oil, Mobile1 fully synthetic from Costco

my $.02

 

Regards the drain plug, I've used a metric box end (forget size, probably 13mm) for perhaps 10 oil changes and never had the slightest problem. Perhaps 1/2" fits tighter, but I doubt it is an absolute must have. And the mangled drain plug shown so dramatically wasn't mangled like that from using a metric wrench.

- Mark

 

+1 for fumoto. Do it once, and use it forever.
I have had 4 of them across 4 cars now and love them.

 

I like the Fumoto Valve idea.

but

The Mityvac 7400 or similar seems so much more sane if you are going to be doing this often.

In my case, age and the dealer doing it for $69 and giving me a car wash and all the espresso I can drink while waiting eliminates the hassle of it all.

 

Good point about the dealer.

 

Are they compatible for multiple cars?

 

They come in just about every size imaginable .... auto, truck, industrial ....

http://www.qwikvalve.com/

BUT there are also some applications where altho they make one that fits, it is just a bad idea IMO. The GEN2 MINI is one such case. On a GEN2 the drain faces straight down and the standard BUNG fits flush into a recess in the pan. A Fumoto would protrude about 1 inch from the bottom of the pan .... begging to get knocked off IMO. ALTHO there have been folks that have posted here that they have them on a GEN2 with NO problems . . . and my 79 REALLY NEEDS a magnetic pickup on the bung since the oil sump is also the tranny fluid . . .

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for the record, one of the reasons this gets recommended for the GEN1 is because of a history of the GEN1 bungs getting stuck. Usually this problem appears the first time a new GEN1 owner tries to change the oil. And they can't get the BUNG out, often rounding the thing off. This usually gets attributed to a too tight wrench monkey at a dealer or oil change place . . .

While a heavy hand probably applies in some cases I also ask you to note the somewhat unique design of the GEN1 bung .... and that 'built on plastic seal'. IMO, in some case that lil bugger ends up gluing the bung to the pan as good as loctite! Couple that with a sloppy fitting metric wrench and many folks end up with a rounded head. Seldom do folks come here and say they've been doing GEN1 oil changes for years and NOW have the problem ... but first timers? I've used "extractors" to get out several for local folks (I charge a lot less than a dealer or other mech' ... I do it for free). It is interesting to note that the service manual reportedly says the bung is a ONE TIME USE item . . . just like replacing a seal costing a few cents on most other cars (like a GEN2) ... for a GEN1 you are supposed to replace the BUNG ... to get a fresh seal. People with 'experience' tend to show up here with stripped pans from crossthreaded BUNG . . .

Buy a new one ONCE and be done .... get a Fumoto! No worries about a stripped pan, or too tight bung ... you don't even need a wrench to open the drain. get the 'nipple' version, and a hose and you can even make the job much neater.

p.s. NO, I do not sell these or work for the company. But I've bought many over the years since I learned about 'em.

 

If the dealer does it for $69 I think that's a no brainer, if I go to my local BMW/Mini dealer here In Omaha, NE do you think they will charge the same

 

Thanks for all the information!

 

I'm neither a fan of the drain plug valves nor the oil vacuums. Here's why: there is a small risk that if you hit a stick or other road debris just right that the valve will be opened and you'll dump your oil all over the road. Oil is better when it's in your car. Depending on the design on the drain valve, it also slows the evacuation of dirty oil and sludge when draining, potentially leaving debris on the oil pan to be mixed with your fresh oil. That's also my complaint with the vacuums. They get most of the oil out, but I've a hunch you're getting a better clearing of junk with the traditional drain plug.

One last note for first-timers. Do not over-torque the drain plug going back into the oil pan: the plug is hardened steel and the pan is aluminum pot metal: very soft. You'll tear out the threads and have to buy an expensive pan.

 

Sure looks like it : http://www.miniofomaha.com/AboutSpec...ue-Service-Nav

They want people to continue to use the dealership so they offer this cheap and they also are competing with quick lube type places. They figure if they can spot major issues you will use them to fix it. I of course would normally just go to my indy mechanic for big items like brake jobs, etc. For oil changes no way can he compete with $69 and he doesn't do car washes and espresso.

 

Back in my olden days of motorcycling, I would have safety wired the valve so it won't open. Now you could probably just cable tie it for peace of mind.

 

Scheduled appointment for oil change. Problem evaded. Thanks for the help gentleman.

 

Topside oil change is my favorite way to go. Never remove the drain plug and old oil go is directly into a closed container.
Watch this topside oils change vid:

 

My opinion wrt FUMOTO

anyone who worries about a Fumoto opening accidentally has never held one in their hands and examined it. It is not that easy to open when you WANT it to! It opens ONE WAY and only ONE WAY .... opening requires two different motions: a lift and a twist. Unlikely to happen by accident ....

BUT if REALLY worried about this ... they offer an extra securing clip . . .



to open accidentally

Knock off the clip

lift the lever

turn the lever 90 degrees


ONE DAMN improbable bump!

and given the location on a GEN1, you would have trashed the oil pan anyway!

 

I would never worry about the valve accidentally opening, but most installations leave the valve hanging down below the sump, stealing ground clearance on an already low car and just asking for the thing to take a whack and probably break off and/or damage the oil sump. No thanks.

- Mark

 

I just did my first oil change yesterday, and had zero problems. I got the drain plug off with a 16mm socket. It was tight, but I hit it with the heel of my hand once or twice and it broke free. I got the oil filter housing off with a 36mm 1/2" drive socket. I did not torque the drain plug afterwords since I was a mess and didn't have the specs readily available, but I've done a ton of oil changes in my life and I know what too tight generally is.

It sounds like the issues with bottom-end oil changes arise from the drain plug either being too tight, or tightening too much, ending with rounded heads and stripped threads. Is that the general consensus?