Hi Gang,

I have owned my 06" JMC since it was new, it is coming up on its 100K mile mark and I want to do a good tune up. I need to have an idea of where to go and what to replace if need be. Here is my list of what I think needs to be looked at and replaced, please feel free to chime in and add or subtract from the list.

I need new brakes all the way around, what brand to look at?
Brake fluid changed out
O2 sensors, and Map sensor cleaned or replaced?
Manual trans, gear oil changed out
Injectors-- clean or replace?
Spark plugs, wires and coils pack
PVC Valve
Serpentine belt changed
Full suspension checked for play and worn parts, possable new struts and rear shocks?
Along with the standard yearly stuff: cabin filters, oil change, air filter, and the like.

I would like to have done a good tune up done so she lasts another 10 years. Any help is welcome.

Marc

 

I am at 125k but very interested in what is recommended here. I'll be following thanks!

 

Add radiator flush to the list.....
Bet the shocks/struts are long gone...they seem to be OK for 60,000 miles or so....inspect the lower control arm bushings too if they have not been done...same for the hydrolic motor mount, they leak when they fail...
Might be worth changing the PS fluid....keep it fresh to extend the pumps life.
As for brakes, depends on use, but for a daily driver, "centric premium" or "centric high carbon" are cost effective rotors, and pads that meet you needs (many different ones, low dust vs more heat tolerant "sport" compounds)....many vendors offer good choices that work well ...if you want a sportier look, slotted rotors can be OK, but can "whirr" when used...

 

Ok, I will add the radiator flush, PS fluid changed and the lower control arm bushings to be looked at; Along with looking at the Struts and rear shocks. But what about the Injectors? Clean or replace ?

Marc

 

+1 on the curious part !!

 

First, go over the car with a fine-toothed comb and set up a plan. No doubt, if it hasn't been done you will need:

Plugs
Serpentine belt
Brake flush
Coolant Flush
Lower control arm bushings
Any of three power steering lines
Crank sensor seal
Cabin air filter
Engine air filter

You may also need:

Belt tensioner
Strut top bearings (with mushroom fix)
Struts/Shocks
Front Swaybar bushings.

That's a good start!

 

Eric made a lot of good points, but I would follow it up with fix what needs fixed and leave what doesn't.

A proper inspection will tell what needs fixed and what doesn't, cars don't need a traditional "tune up" anymore.

 

Agree with this statement, however it is hard to tell sometimes what needs fixing. Oftentimes you fix one thing that was marginal and it sets off a chain reaction of stress on other things that were doing fine. Ignoring everything until it breaks often just leads to a fingers crossed trade in at the dealer. Don't ask how I know about that.

 

These are the things I ended up doing to my mini all around the 90,000-100,000 mile mark.

Cabin filter (it was nasty, needed replaced)
Spark plugs and wires (didn't really "need" them, but I figured what the heck)
New FSD shocks (oem shocks were completely shot)
LCA bushings (oem bushings were completely shot)
Inner Ball Joints (oem ones were starting to make noise)
Motor Mount Bushings (oem ones were cracked/worn)
Sway Bar Bushings (oem lones looked ok, but replaced anyway)
Shock Tower Mounts (oem ones were cracked)
Fuel Filter (no issues, but figured it needed it)
Oil pan gasket (factory gasket was leaking)
Valve Cover Gasket (factory gasket was leaking)
Serpentine Belt (it needed it)
Crank Sensor Seal (it was starting to leak)
Transmission oil change (not sure if it needed it, but I did anyway)


Most of these things are very easy to tell if they are worn just be spending a little time looking at them. I'd say the most important things are the shocks, suspension bushings, and ball joints.

 

I am starting to wonder if I should drive my MINI anymore it might fall apart on me. It hasen't even had a hard life, always garaged, oil changed every 5K, detailed twice a year, serviced on on time for the the inspections.

Thanks for the info, I will start to look over the car with a fine tooth comb. I have a list going of what needs to be done that I know of already, I will add to it as I find things in the next week or so as I crawl in to the car.

marc

 

Unfortunately......100,000 miles is 100,000 miles. Doesn't matter if your car has never seen rain, had the oil changed every 5,000 miles, or got washed and waxed every weekend since it was new.

Stuff wears out....time to start paying the piper .

 

I have no problem with paying the piper, I just want to know where to start. and everything I have read here makes me wonder if the thing is going to fall apart on me, I just read up the low speed fan problem. Now I am confused on that.

Believe me I appericiate everyones help here.

Marc

 

Doubt the car will fall apart it's just parts wear out over time, some sooner than others. Good advice so far as for things to look for. It doesn't have to done at once but some work should be done together since sections of the front come off (service mode) and its easier with it all apart. Not sure what a JMC is but if you have a supercharger, then the oil should be changed.

Since I bought my '04 MCS w/121K last December, I've changed the engine oil and filter, corrected and reinforced the front strut towers, changed the s/c oil, replaced the working water pump, crank sensor seal gasket, thermostat and housing, and changed the coolant with OEM Mini blue coolant. In the process I discovered the upper radiator hose was worn and about to blow. Glad I caught that. The advice on this forum has been great along with some youtube how-to videos and the Pelican Parts articles.

As for the low speed fan issue it's simple. The single radiator fan has two speeds. One wire (big red) to the fan supplies full current for the high speed function. The other wire (small red) goes to a resistor that is mounted to the radiator assembly. It is down low and just about impossible to see without putting the car into service mode to get to it. The resistor steps down the current and that causes the fan to spin slower and gives you the low speed function. The OEM resistor is a poor design and these burn out. Unless a car has been sitting in a museum, it is fair to say a majority of not all of the OEM resistors burn out. When that happens you no longer have the low speed but the high speed will still work.

I spent a lot of time reading the very long thread regarding this. There are many options to fix it and some options will last longer than others. I decided to go with a better design of resistor made by Arcol, 100 watt (R33). Just got mine last week and hope to get it installed soon.

 

Thanks for the support on not having my car fall apart on me, I just enjoy the little green monster too much. BTW it is British Racing green with the Union Jack on the roof.

Marc

 

Drive your car and enjoy it...
Don't let reading threads on issues make you become ocd or become a car hypochondriac....
Cars are made to be used...
Older cars pick up rattles, quirks, etc...
Just know some folks do many "repair" actions on these cars for fun or due to ocd....and sometimes they make things worse by doing a iffy job cause they got in far over their heads....
Know you limits, and often, folks get into trouble by just doing oil changes. And skipping inspections....inspections are what catches the little things before they become big $$$ things in many cases....the things like brake fluid and radiator flushes, belt changes, and having a knowing eye LOOKING and TOUCHING stuff...so you know what is worn BEFORE it fails, costing a tow a more $$$ items to go...
A $200 part installed or a $90 diy item like an engine mount can cost you a $2000 clutch job if it goes too long...same for lower control arm bushings...might cost you a set of tires if they go too long, or an accident....
If you get you car in for inspections number 1 then 2 as specified by the owners handbook, roughly 30,000 miles apart, you you be fine.

 

HI Gang,

After a long hard debate with myself and dealing with my paranioa. Here is a 2/3 list of what I have come up with for taking car on my MINI. It is not complete as of yet but a good start.

Needs replaced List:

Brake rotors and pads
struts and shocks
serpentine belt and tentioner
coil, wires, and plugs
normal oil change with air filters for engine and cabin
O2 Sensors
PS fluid replaced
radiator flushed and coolant replaced
trans oil changed
fuel filter replaced
Just put a new set of tires on her today 3/6/15

Things to be looked at by my mechanic who I have had for over 15 years.

lower control arm bushings.
sway bar bushings, front and rear
Strut tower plates and bushings, along with the rear ones
motor mount bushings
crank sensor seal
power steering lines
radiator hoeses

Did a check on the low speed fan problem that the MINI has, mine is still working right. Who knows for how long but I will cross that bridge when I come to it. Thanks for the info and the support, I don't post very much here in the 9 years I have been a member.

Marc

 

The things above (in red) may not be bad.....might want to also have your mechanic check/test them before you drop the cash to replace them.

 

Looks like a decent list above I am in the same boat as you pretty much got about 1/2 of those done so far.

 

The things in red were questionable last summer, the brakes are almost to the sensors, the tentioner is the original one. Plus MINI suggestes to replace the O2 sensors at 100K.

Steffen, just out of curiosity, what have had done and in what order? I am looking at doing my suspention first followed up with my engine and trans stuff.

 

Sounds like you really need to get those brakes done before anything else. Tensioner I am not going to replace till it needs it, and the same with the o2 sensors.

I am currently looking into suspension now, then brakes, then rims and tires.

What have you done thus far? Why did you let your brakes get so bad?

 

???
brakes are good for the street for maybe 3000_5000 miles past triggering the sensor if wear is even....so no worries...track, very different....
the general suggestion is to replace the pads when the friction material is about as thick as the pads backer plate IF wear is even....

 

ohhhh I misunderstood the way he worded that. Im sorry, my bad.

 

I haven't done anything yet, I wanted to get my list and then come up with a plan of attack. Plus get the money put together for all the parts, right now I am at $1800 with what I need to get. So I figure another $750 in parts if need be, plus labor . I am guessing about 3K when all done.

Marc

 

Yeah this hobby of ours isnt the cheapest is it haha! I am in the same boast as you I am thinking about 4k with all the extras I want to get..

 

I wish to thank all those who gave me a little guidance, who were paitent, and were willing to read the ramblings of a paranoid MINI owner.

As for a cheap Hobby, this is cheap to play with MINIs, My other love is AMC products, and we have to jump though hoops that are on fire for some parts. Some others cost more than the car is worth.

Thanks again

Marc