Hi all! New to the forum and working on Minis but not to cars in general (I restore 1st and 2 nd gen Camaros).

We have a 2006 Mini Cooper with MT. ~103K on the clock....regularly serviced. Last fall the AC ceased working. A trip to the repair shop resulted in a diagnosis of a leaking condenser as well as a failed stage 1 fan. I decided to make the repairs myself. Picked up a TYC fan assembly and condenser and installed everything on a Saturday afternoon.

The AC now works but the stage 1 fan does not come on and neither does the PS fan. Stage 2 fan comes on with AC.

Temperature starts at zero when cold and climbs to the midway point of the gauge (where it always rides) and stays very steady.

Have verified the new fan works in both stage 1 and 2 by disconnecting the harness and applying 12V directly to the pins.

Have checked all fuses for continuity...all are good.

Have checked the line from stage 1 relay to the fan connector for continuity and it is good also.

I have a wiring diagram but am uncertain what to test next or how to resolve this problem. Temperatures today were in the mid 70s and even in surface street traffic the fans never came on. I have searched both with Google and inside this site and can not figure out my next step. Any help appreciated.

Thanks!

 

I would suggest you now look at the PS fan and circuit, since you appear to ruled out the stage 1 fan circuit.

 

Thanks for the response, your suggestion was actually where I had decided to go next (this week is the plan). I realize the fans turn on based upon the engine temp and the ECM sending a signal but does the PS fan have to operate in order for stage 1 fan to run. I see they are linked at the relay but can't figure out if they just share power or are reliant upon eachother.

 

2006 should have wiring separate from the ps fan but could be a fluke. The early cars definitely did not - if one goes they both won't work...some dealers installed a wiring modification to correct this.

Good luck

 

+1
Cars built Jan 2005+ have the split done at the factory...the wiring harness changed..
The fuse for the PS fan is in the car now....a 5 amp fuse...
I would check the PS fan...maybe try adding 12v to check it runs ok...spin it by hand, reinstall...and not worry about it. As for the radiator fan...unless you have a guage to watch the coolant temp in the ecu...you are just guessing if it should be on...

 

The car was purchased in mid-October of 2006...I would assume that puts it well inside the production period when the wiring was separated by the factory. Thanks for the input

 

The issue for me (and based on numerous other posts throughout the web) is trying to determine exactly which fuse does exactly what but I think I might have this one .

I'll post up the wiring diagram I have later but it shows a 5amp fuse in the footwell for the PS fan with its own relay BUT the electric fan I relay in the engine bay supplies power to the PS relay. That would seem to argue for the two systems to be somewhat interdependent.

You are correct, it is all guess work without a means of monitoring the ECM. I simply based my conclusions on years of listening to this one run it's fans on a regular basis. Thin I know but it got me asking questions.

 

Flowjoe, mine has a chassis date of 11/05 and I have confirmed the rad fan and ps fan are separated by observing the impact of removing each connector. Have you tried a test lamp on the stage 1 circuit (disconnect fan connector near AC test ports and test vehicle side harness with car running and AC on). Test lamp at stage 1 should come on when AC exceeds 8psi I believe. I had to DIY charge my AC to get mine working. Does you ps fan run when stage 2 fan kicks in? If not you should isolate and test the ps fan directly with 12v.

 

So far all I have been able to verify is that stage 2 comes on with AC...the test light on the stage 1 is an excellent idea. We had tried removing the relay and putting 12v directly through the port to stage 1 and that did not yield a running fan. We thought the wiring harness may be messed up but then check for continuity and the wire was good. That led to the questions about what came on when and with what...

 

Do I have this correct?

 

This is the wiring diagram I am using. listed as 06 Mini cooper S (figure the fans are the same between Cooper and Cooper S) high/low bus circuit cooling fans

 

Flowjoe, yes you have the 3 pins identified correctly.

 

Next steps of chasing this down. Verified that the PS fan is connected to the harness and spins freely by hand. Verified that the relays were good. Then I mapped out the ports under the relays for Stage 1 & 2 fans:




Without stage 1 relay in place:
1. Applied 12v directly to #30 slot and stage 1 fan came on.
2. Turned key to "ON" position and applied 12v directly to #30 slot and stage 1 fan AND PS fan came on (12v removed and PS fan ran for a few seconds after - as I think it should, right?).

Without Stage 2 relay in place:
1. Applied 12v direclty to #87 slot and Stage 2 fan came on (and promptly blew the circuit breaker in the Power Probe).

Replaced both relays and started car with AC on. Stage 2 fan came on after about 5 minutes of run time. PS fan never came on. Drove car with AC on (~12 miles one surface streets in 72* weather) and no PS fan detected at any point (including an out of car inspection). Returned to the house under same conditions, got out of car, popped hood, with engine and AC running (then cycled the AC on and off with wait times in between) and still no signs of Stage 1 or PS fan running. Stage 2 fan came on consistently when AC is on.

Conclusions So Far:

1. Fans are good.
2. Wiring downstream of fuse block good.
3. Steering control module fan relay is good.
4. Stage 1 & 2 relays appear to be good (out of car test).
5. Potential problems are in the ECM, ECM to fuse block wiring or Temp sensor.
6. Need a diagnostic tool to connect to OBDII for any further testing (I have a friend with a shop who can help me out here).

Any comments, observations or suggestions that anyone can offer at this point? Did I miss something?

 

Hi guys,
newbie here, similar problems, reset the ECM following the link in your other posts and then followed again to show the coolant temp.
My fan was stuck or not working prior to this ECM reset. Everything you have shown, I did.


With ECM reset, the fan works? 105c and the fan cuts in.....blowing like a gooden and keeping the head and system now cool.


just my 2 pence worth of what I found and remedied

 

I have reset the ECM using the guide

Resetting ECU! Like giving my MINI Viagra - North American Motoring

Quote from guide:

1.With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand.
2.The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”.
3.Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4.The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system.
5.Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
6.Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.

Here is a list of all the tests on your MINI: using same method as above;
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilo-meter count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calendar week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injector status, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Comb system Test
3.0 Service interval counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 litres/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in litres/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in KMs.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 litres right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel gauge.
1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal implausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No function
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg. 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. For consumption factor
20.3 saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)


this resets the ECM back to a learning process, anyway enough of all this technical computer black art of wizardry, then followed to point 7 - engine coolant temp. With the temp displayed on the speedo, the thermostat works, as when slowly building up the heat at around 97c then temp dropped down to 93c.

I have now the temp displayed at 105c and now the fan works, cooling down to 97c.

Well what ever this first part was the fan works and runs and cuts out as it was made to do so, I can only assume given what I have done and seen the ECM reset has worked.

Now onto other little jobs to complete my 'Mini' nightmare

 

So you are saying the ECM reset made the stage 1 & PS fans work as designed? Any clue what caused the ECM to require a reset?

 

Hi,


It was a last resort to ripping the car apart.


I had the clutch replaced not long ago, then these issues came? fluke or what!


I read an earlier post re resistor followed this and still no joy, then checked as you have all the electrics until I was going mad.


Then I decided to reset the ECM after reading a earlier post on this site. I then set the temp to read from the speedo odometer instrument following the same procedure. It was when I read on this site the ECM learns from driving behaviour - from this I thought what have I got to loose - that it may just need a kick start from when the clutch was fixed and the car battery disconnected? just a guess.....

After this the fan engaged at 105c and 112c? I am not sure whether this jolted the ECM, but this was funny that there were no fans, then after reset, fans got going?


My A/C needs checking as this is not engaging (no click) and no cold air. Tested the A/C gauge to low pressure, after 20 min pressure reading in the red- so professional assistance required.


I am honestly still no clearer as to why, fan still working at correct temp? these dam electrics and all things run by computers may be it just needed a reboot.


I have ordered a code reader to check out if any stored error codes link to these issues, if found I will post up with immediate effect as there are a lot of people out there with similar issues..............


Thank you also for your research and brill photo's to find a solution and to others of their time on this matter


regards

 

hello, we just bought a 2006 MC non S r52 convertible. I am perplexed as I cant locate the PS fan fuse in the box on driver side kick panel?

Also, rad fan wont engage unless I turn on AC, I jumped power to both low and high pins, fan works fine. I assumed temp sensor on block, changed it, still no fan at long idle but car didnt overhear so perhaps temp wasnt high enough to turn on fan? Relays, swapped them while AC on fan runs changes speeds of course. So I think relays are good.
I need to reset ECM? Thanks for any input why I love my F150 the fan always turns! 😉

 

anyone..2006 mini non S model convertible. The ps fan fuse keeps.blowing, even tried a 10A and it actually arced and blew too. Pulled off fan and it works with direct 12v applied but when I tested ohm level on either side of the resistors attached to fan they read like 3.0.ohms and that seems very low since a wire reads 2.5 so there little resistance which I assume causes too much current to the fan motor which causes 5Amp fuse to blow right??