i have a 2006 mini cooper s JCW and i have had the well known p2096 code on my car for about a year now. At first i thought it was because the front weld on my cat broke but i had the bright idea when i took it off to re weld it to go ahead and hollow it out and space the back o2 sensors since i thought the code was just because my cat was broke, but after hollowing it out and spacing the o2 sensor the light would never go off even after clearing it. so i took it to the dealership since i found that my o2 sensors were still under warranty ( i removed o2 sensor spacer before thinking it would void warranty ) but they said that the o2 sensors were fine and that it was my cat being bad which little did they know it was hollowed. so i just put a universal magna flow cat on it which i welded in and just kept the o2 sensor spacer out also thinking it would fix the problem which of course it didn't. so i then put the o2 sensor back on and still code want go off and in order to get the warranty from the dealership the computer has to say o2 sensor is bad. even after i put in a cat and took it back to dealership after doing what they asked they still said my o2 sensors were good and i have been to a bunch of different places and they all tell me that my post cat o2 sensor is bad but the dealership says its good. so i would really appreciate it if someone out there has any options on what to do because i can not afford the o2 sensors and if the dealership is right i would just waste money replacing them. any information would help tremendously being i can't afford anymore expired tag tickets since they are almost a year expired now

 

Where are you located, what State?

Motor on!

 

I had this code too. My header spit in the same location. I welded mine back together but nothing I would do would make the code go away. This is a hard code. nothing you can do will make the code go away untill the compter senses the problem is gone for a certain number of cycles. I think it is like 100. a code reader will not erase this code. I ended up buying a used mini header with 02 sensors and put it in. 3 months later the code cleared after the number of cycles with no problem had been met. 5 years later. Im still good.

 

i am from tn

 

and my header welds didnt break it was literaly the weld on the actual cat right behind the inlet were the header pipe would go if it were a bolt on cat. and where did you find a used header ? i would like to find a used header and cat full assembly but the ones i have found are completly out radeous on pricing.

 

and im new to actually posting on this site so im not sure if u guys will actually see i responded or if i even know how to do so.

 

One tip...
The precat and post cat o2 sensor is the same part...
The fact you had a list cat effencency code with no cat is not surprising...the "workarounds" only work for some...
Sounds like you installed a new cat...
A GOOD SHOP TOOL can reset the "hard" code...it will then show a not ready for testing...and in a few tanks of gas, will OK IF THE CAT is working right...or you can just drive lots...
Used headers are sometimes sold for $150-180$...cat is attached...but SAME ISSUE.
CHECK your welds...if not perfect...o2 will get in...and you will get a code.
And most aftermarket cats only last a couple years...whether honeycomb or ceramic.... And I hope you did not get a cat that looks like steel wool on the inside...sold on eBay..those will melt.. And cause a blockage. And will give you a light long before that..they are simply not good enough...heck some of the aftermarket cats will melt or fracture in a mini...
Sounds like you backed yourself into a corner....
Remindsxme of the old saying...nothing is as expensive as going cheap! Or the more common, tripping over a dollar to pick up a dime!!
Seriously, good luck, but sounds like you might need to spend a couple $$ to get help...
If you had been honest with mini, they MIGHT have reset the code for at.. But likely saw the welds...and did not want to get involved beyond testing the sensor...
And one more tip...
If you do need one...the OEM one is around for about $100...many aftermarket ones give folks codes...

 

Look at the "market place" here...like classifieds....owner to owner sales, so be careful.
Used cats are not legal to sell..but owner to owner is kinda OK.. A bit if a gray area...
..and the cat is WELDED ON so indivials will sell them..but not shops.....so when folks upgrade to a NICE header, some sell the OEM (smart ones IMO save it, or weld the OEM cat to the aftermarket header if it still works)....
The crack you had is semi common...have heard of a couple folks welding the cat, and being OK for a LONG time....

 

There are a lot of things that could cause that code, and the O2 sensor usually isn't the one (even though that's what it says). Often it's just a glitch. There is actually a service bulletin about it. The first thing that should be done is clear all adaptations and codes. In my case, after having the code for months, doing that got rid of it and it hasn't come back in over a year. Simply waiting for it to go away never worked for me. As GPWPat said, it's a hard code so normal code readers won't make it go away. If you have a few weeks or a month that you can wait for it to arrive, order the obd2 diagnostic cable and software off of eBay for $35 and clear your adaptations yourself. It will then take a little while for the system to say "ready" for emissions testing. Mini should have done it when you took it in, but I wouldn't trust a dealership mechanic to know what they are doing.

 

Do you think that since my light was on for about 3 or more months when my cat was slightly crack but not fully dismantled yet before I fixed it that once I re welded my cat and hollowed it out that the p2096 code became a hard code therefore until I clear it with a better tool it was always going to come back? And I actually did end up telling the mechanics at the dealership and he told me the o2 spacers don't work on minis becuase the computer is to sensitive which I think is in correct but he was saying it becuase of his job but again I don't know if they just cleared the code as you can do at any parts store or did a more upgraded brain code scanner .

 

I've read a couple of places that a vacuum leak can throw this code which kind of makes sense becuase it can effect the air to fuel ratio but I haven't seemed to have any luck but I also read that a bad intercooler boot can have something to do with the code too but this left me puzzled becuase I always thought that intercoolers and boost tubes just ran to the supercharger or turbo from a cold and hot side and that it was a closed system but I could be wrong but I did end up finding a small small tear in one of my intercooler boots so I'm going to replace them and see what happens!

 

The reason I asked where you were...
Effective July 1, 2014
The Vehicle Emission Testing Fee is $9.00 in Hamilton, Rutherford, Sumner, Williamson and Wilson Counties.
...and
Effective July 1, 2002, 1996 and newer model vehicles will undergo an On-Board Diagnostics test, and a gas cap leak check instead of the traditional tailpipe and tampering test.

So I can only assume you are in one of these counties, and few people know..

If you fail the emissions test, the Department has an ASE certified mechanic on staff to assist you. He provides free diagnostic information and can help determine why the vehicle is not passing. If you are registered in Hamilton, Rutherford, Sumner, Williamson, or Wilson county please call 532-8378 or toll-free 1-866-329-9632 for more information.

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That being said... Have you cleared all your codes and adaptations from your ECU and given the complete Engine a really good once over for vacuum leaks pre and post intake?

I ran into issues when I originally wanted to register my 1975 MG Midget as a daily driver in York County in PA, I had to completely rebuild the emission control system (ECS) on (at that time) 31 year old car. The lesson I learned is get OEM parts, even if the inspectors are not experts on your make or model if the parts are OEM they can not accuse you of trying to "Tamper" or "Alter" the ECS.

I would say lastly an option is taking your car to a dealership (Yea, I know but some times...) with the task of FIXING the issue. It might be pricey, but then you can hold them responsible for sorting out the issue.

Best of luck.

Motor on!

 

I had read that too about vacuum leaks causing the code. I built a little smoke test machine and didn't find any vacuum leaks on my car. After that, I reset the adaptations and cleared the code. A smoke test would be a good idea.

 

I too have that dreadful code, but i am catless with a spacer for the o2 sensor, i have no problem with the annoying light, but it is messing with the fuel mixture, because my gas mileage isnt looking so good