EML- No loss in power HELP!
#1
EML- No loss in power HELP!
Hello everyone,
2005 R53 Cooper S
I'm hoping someone could shed some light on this EML 1498 (leak after compressor) issue I've had since power mods. The list is below and have ruled out the main possible faults. This happens on start up and within 30 seconds goes lean and throws eml. No loss of power through the gears. Base tuned by rmw. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
OBX header-port matched
63mm throttle body (OEM BMW) tested before mods
Ported inlet tube brand new checked for leaks
RMW 550 injectors snug o rings
Catch can tested for leaks
RMW sweet cam checked for timing
Ireland engineering 2.5 Inc exhaust
ATI new dampener checked for slippage
Alta belt tensioner tight
New idler pullies
17% red pully dt
Detroit tuned BPV new
New gaskets all around
Quaife diff
Stage 2 clutch
Boost Gauge tested for leaks
New water pump
CAI alta type
New and Checked both map sensors
New coil pack screening demon previously on no issues
New plugs wires previously on no issues
New intercooler boots
Smoke tested for leaks and less than. 25
Help!
2005 R53 Cooper S
I'm hoping someone could shed some light on this EML 1498 (leak after compressor) issue I've had since power mods. The list is below and have ruled out the main possible faults. This happens on start up and within 30 seconds goes lean and throws eml. No loss of power through the gears. Base tuned by rmw. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
OBX header-port matched
63mm throttle body (OEM BMW) tested before mods
Ported inlet tube brand new checked for leaks
RMW 550 injectors snug o rings
Catch can tested for leaks
RMW sweet cam checked for timing
Ireland engineering 2.5 Inc exhaust
ATI new dampener checked for slippage
Alta belt tensioner tight
New idler pullies
17% red pully dt
Detroit tuned BPV new
New gaskets all around
Quaife diff
Stage 2 clutch
Boost Gauge tested for leaks
New water pump
CAI alta type
New and Checked both map sensors
New coil pack screening demon previously on no issues
New plugs wires previously on no issues
New intercooler boots
Smoke tested for leaks and less than. 25
Help!
#4
I just finished repairing my 1498. I'm pretty sure it was the green gasket that caused mine (it was actually broken).
I replaced my inlet tube, the MAP, TMAP, MAP vacuum line along with all the gaskets.
Here's my post from this link:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...x-problem.html
Things to note:
First I removed the MFE and drained the coolant (captured and for reuse)
Then pretty much tore down what was connected to the intake tube (not in any particular order):
The MFE took me about 40 minutes this time, and I took my time with the rest. Tear down was probably 3 hours then putting it all back together. I started at 10 and finished at 5 (including purging the coolant), but I'm sure it would take others much less time.
Getting the intake tube, throttle body, bypass valve and SC horn to all align and seat the green gasket was a bit of a PIA, but I got it all in there nice.
After inspecting all of my old items (MAP, TMAP, Intake tube, Gray MAP vacuum line) it appears that the only obvious failure was the green gasket was cracked.
*Unfortunately 4 days after my repair, I threw a 1688 and went into limp mode, along with what Dash Command said was an "Unknown Code".
The car is actually at the dealer right now. They say that the bypass (original) is shot, needs replacement (they updated the part due to a known issue)
Hope this helps, let me know if you need any more info.
Good luck!
I replaced my inlet tube, the MAP, TMAP, MAP vacuum line along with all the gaskets.
Here's my post from this link:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...x-problem.html
Things to note:
- Make sure you have all the gaskets you'll need (SC horn, Green intake, Throttle body) and parts you may want to replace (MAP, TMAP, MAP Gray Vacuum line, Intake tube, Bypass Valve*, Throttle body)
- Anytime you remove the MFE you may screw up some of the plastic screw plugs in the wheel wells and the bumper skirt screws/clips may be rusted in need of replacement. Get them and have them on hand for replacement.
- May be worth having some coolant on hand
First I removed the MFE and drained the coolant (captured and for reuse)
Then pretty much tore down what was connected to the intake tube (not in any particular order):
- Intercooler
- Airbox to throttle body hose
- Throttle body
- SC horn
- Bypass valve
- MAP Sensor
The MFE took me about 40 minutes this time, and I took my time with the rest. Tear down was probably 3 hours then putting it all back together. I started at 10 and finished at 5 (including purging the coolant), but I'm sure it would take others much less time.
Getting the intake tube, throttle body, bypass valve and SC horn to all align and seat the green gasket was a bit of a PIA, but I got it all in there nice.
After inspecting all of my old items (MAP, TMAP, Intake tube, Gray MAP vacuum line) it appears that the only obvious failure was the green gasket was cracked.
*Unfortunately 4 days after my repair, I threw a 1688 and went into limp mode, along with what Dash Command said was an "Unknown Code".
The car is actually at the dealer right now. They say that the bypass (original) is shot, needs replacement (they updated the part due to a known issue)
Hope this helps, let me know if you need any more info.
Good luck!
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