R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 At 154K, looking for some help to keep my mini running!

  #26  
Old 11-14-2014, 07:09 AM
ZippyNH's Avatar
ZippyNH
ZippyNH is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Originally Posted by dcantwell
I'm going to probably re-diagnose the knocking part. I looked up some videos and my Mini sounds nowhere near as bad as them.

I think I might try the LiquidMOLY on my next oil change
A mechanic in a bottle is not a solution to a mechanical issue....if it was...
There would not be garages with trained folks and lifts in every town in the world...
A ping or a dead cylindar from low compression is one thing...
But a knock is much more severe....
Since you want longer term relilibility, I would consider any "bandaid" fixes wasted $$, since the issues are still there....
Sure if the valves are OK, and you find compression low, a motor flush MIGHT help.....many diffent ways over the years...some use diesel fuel, or tranny oil for a few minutes, then flush and drain...some riskys, yes...is a higher priced "euro" flush any better than the auto store one??
How long have you had the car? Kinda suspect a car with stuck, cooked, gummed up cooked rings has been missmatained...poor quality oil or run very hot....does not sound like your case...just saying....
 

Last edited by ZippyNH; 11-14-2014 at 07:16 AM.
  #27  
Old 11-14-2014, 07:34 AM
dcantwell's Avatar
dcantwell
dcantwell is offline
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ZippyNH
A mechanic in a bottle is not a solution to a mechanical issue....if it was...
There would not be garages with trained folks and lifts in every town in the world...
A ping or a dead cylindar from low compression is one thing...
But a knock is much more severe....
Since you want longer term relilibility, I would consider any "bandaid" fixes wasted $$, since the issues are still there....
Sure if the valves are OK, and you find compression low, a motor flush MIGHT help.....many diffent ways over the years...some use diesel fuel, or tranny oil for a few minutes, then flush and drain...some riskys, yes...is a higher priced "euro" flush any better than the auto store one??
How long have you had the car? Kinda suspect a car with stuck, cooked, gummed up cooked rings has been missmatained...poor quality oil or run very hot....does not sound like your case...just saying....
I've had it since 2008. It had 33K on it when I got it. So, I've put on 121K (Now at 154K). Thats 121K of highway miles. I don't drive fast and I don't beat the ***** off the car.

I've taken decent care of it. Changed the oil at the correct intervals. The coolant has been flushed multiple times. I've almost redlined the temp gauge once and that's because the radiator was leaking and I didn't notice it.

My mechanic actually just bought a brand new Mini himself. He gets in and drives mine and can't believe how awesome it drives. So I'm guessing I've done a decent job taking care of it.

I'm gonna do some stuff this weekend and see where I get.
 
  #28  
Old 11-14-2014, 08:01 AM
ZippyNH's Avatar
ZippyNH
ZippyNH is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Sounds like a good, well matained car! Hopefully "correct intervals" is a bit more frequent than the computer calls for...just a personal presence, not trying to start an oil change debate, a few HAVE gone 200+k using mini suggested changes....
I would suggest doing a quick compression test...the tool is usually cheap or even free from some of the parts stores....about as easy as doing sparkplugs...
My guess...might be time to get the valves done, and you get a new headgasket...just my gut...but new plugs (do them cold, and use a tourqe wrench, then retest the tq in a few days) might work....
A poor reading on compression will not tell you if it is the top end (valves) or rings without doing it "wet" or then doing a leakdown test with compressed air......but will give you a clue as to the shape of the motor.
Have a chat with your mechanic....he might have some insight, or might just say run it...
 
  #29  
Old 11-14-2014, 10:34 AM
IQRaceworks's Avatar
IQRaceworks
IQRaceworks is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,338
Received 113 Likes on 94 Posts
Originally Posted by dcantwell
So after a recent spurt of dropping roughly $4000 in fixes for my 2003 Mini Cooper S, I'm at a pass of whether or not I should get rid of my Mini...

I've been having problems left and right and just can't seem to get back on track. Finally I've gotten rid of the major annoying issues. But, it's still not performing in top shape.

My question is, what should I do to get another 100K out of my Mini? I've sucked at maintenance. Pretty much all I've done was the coolant, oil, brakes, and anything else that really failed.

Here's my current list of known issues:
- Engine knocking/pinging
- Higher pictched sound when cold. Sounds like a pulley may be going (Supercharger?)
- Never changed the supercharger oil
- Never changed the fuel filter
- Never changed the clutch/flywheel (Sounds like Chewbacca but still engages well)
- Never changed timing chain
- Burning up oil quickly. Don't notice any leaks.
- Automatic door locks broken

Here's a list of recent repairs:
- New Windshield
- Replaced Oil Pan gasket (Obviously Oil change as well)
- Two new axles
- Replaced Radiator
- Replaced Engine mounts
- New Borla Exhaust
- Got a used set of Rims (really need a paint job)


I guess I'm looking for opinions on the best places to start on getting my mini running in tip top shape. I'm a little broke and kinda have to take this a piece at a time.

My ideas for now:
- seafoam treatment
- replace fuel filter
- change oil in supercharger (probably the hardest thing)

Any other cheap ideas?
Not trying to be a jerk....but it looks like your prioritys are all jacked up. You've spent tons of money on stuff you don't really need (wheels, exhaust)......but you seem to have to pretty concering issues that need addressed, and you want cheap ideas like Seafoam and a fuel filter change??


At 154,000 miles....a SC oil change is not going to do anything for you. You're better off replacing the SC. Also, if you are burning lots of oil.....and you have engine pinging....it sounds like you may be in need of an engine overhaul.

What about suspension bushings, shocks, struts, ball joints...spark plugs, wires....stuff like that? With 154,000 miles on the car...I'm guessing all of those parts need changed out also.

There really isn't anything "cheap" that's going to fix your problems at this point. .....
 

Last edited by IQRaceworks; 11-14-2014 at 10:41 AM.
  #30  
Old 11-14-2014, 10:49 AM
dcantwell's Avatar
dcantwell
dcantwell is offline
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
Not trying to be a jerk....but it looks like your prioritys are all jacked up. You've spent tons of money on stuff you don't really need (wheels, exhaust)......but you seem to have to pretty concering issues that need addressed, and you want cheap ideas like Seafoam and a fuel filter change??


At 154,000 miles....a SC oil change is not going to do anything for you. You're better off replacing the SC. Also, if you are burning lots of oil.....and you have engine pinging....it sounds like you may be in need of an engine overhaul.

What about suspension bushings, shocks, struts, ball joints...spark plugs, wires....stuff like that? With 154,000 miles on the car...I'm guessing all of those parts need changed out also.

There really isn't anything "cheap" that's going to fix your problems at this point. .....
I'm guessing you didn't read much of the conversation... lol All signs are pointing to less problems than I'm imagining. And the rims and exhaust were major fixes and Gotten for half the price (exhaust) or free (rims).

A lot of the stuff you've mentioned have been changed as well.

But, thanks for the input!
 
  #31  
Old 11-14-2014, 11:04 AM
IQRaceworks's Avatar
IQRaceworks
IQRaceworks is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,338
Received 113 Likes on 94 Posts
Yes...I agree. I didn't read the entire conversion. I guess I should have
 
  #32  
Old 11-14-2014, 11:08 AM
dcantwell's Avatar
dcantwell
dcantwell is offline
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
Yes...I agree. I didn't read the entire conversion. I guess I should have
Haha it's cool! I agree the last thing I should've ever spent my money on was that exhaust and the rims.

To replace that exhaust with OEM equipment was like $700 just in parts. I got the Borla for $780 and it was bolt in so my cousin and I did it in like an hour.

I blew 4 freakin tires out in the last year because of potholes around here as well. That's why the rims wouldn't hold air anymore.
 
  #33  
Old 11-14-2014, 11:23 AM
Saltysalt's Avatar
Saltysalt
Saltysalt is offline
6th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 2,257
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
definently do compression test, easiest and fastest way to tell how an engine is.... do it when its warm, not cold


cylinder 1 or 4(forget which one) is usually the problem child IF there is low compression.


as for supercharger health, put in a boost gauge, you can get one on harbor freight for $20. install it, and see what boost levels you are making, if proper boost is had, and not over heating.... leave the S/C alone
 
  #34  
Old 11-14-2014, 04:27 PM
AudioNToxication's Avatar
AudioNToxication
AudioNToxication is offline
5th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Or instead of installing a boost gauge, I'd recommend getting a scangauge. It will read boost. It will also help you read and clear codes in the mini and any other car you or a friend may have. Since you have a higher mileage car it's really nice to have. Mine runs every time I drive my car.
 
  #35  
Old 11-14-2014, 06:28 PM
busemans's Avatar
busemans
busemans is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Any kind of scan gage?
 
  #36  
Old 11-14-2014, 06:29 PM
busemans's Avatar
busemans
busemans is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Like would the torque app with dongle work?
 
  #37  
Old 11-14-2014, 09:03 PM
MC40-817's Avatar
MC40-817
MC40-817 is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The engine knocking could be a bad coil. Pull the number 3 wire and check the contact on the coil for rust. If it's rusty replace it with an oem part.
 

Last edited by MC40-817; 11-15-2014 at 11:26 PM. Reason: edited to remove the link that magically appeared. does Nam put those links in?
  #38  
Old 11-14-2014, 10:10 PM
AudioNToxication's Avatar
AudioNToxication
AudioNToxication is offline
5th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by busemans
Like would the torque app with dongle work?
I don't know. If the app shows the map sensor readings, it should work. I was referring to the product Scangauge.
 
  #39  
Old 11-15-2014, 04:47 AM
busemans's Avatar
busemans
busemans is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
OK, thanks
 
  #40  
Old 11-17-2014, 07:10 AM
dcantwell's Avatar
dcantwell
dcantwell is offline
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So I did a few minor things this weekend and I can't believe the difference.

- Added a can of Seafoam to my gas tank
- Ran Seafoam through the intake hose connected to the PCV valve
- Cleaned and Re-oiled my K&N Air Filter
- Reset my ECU

I don't know if I can specifically point out which item had the most impact. But, here's what I've noticed:

- Car starts like 10 times quicker (less turnover)
- Acceleration is up
- car shifts much smoother
- My exhaust isn't gurgling like it used to when letting off the gas
- I don't have to downshift on steep inclines anymore
- It's completely noticeable how much better my Mini is running

On running the Seafoam through the intake: I had no where near as much smoke as I've seen in videos. Like barely any at all. Not sure what that means?

Thoughts on everything?
 
  #41  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:14 AM
IQRaceworks's Avatar
IQRaceworks
IQRaceworks is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,338
Received 113 Likes on 94 Posts
Originally Posted by dcantwell
So I did a few minor things this weekend and I can't believe the difference.

- Added a can of Seafoam to my gas tank
- Ran Seafoam through the intake hose connected to the PCV valve
- Cleaned and Re-oiled my K&N Air Filter
- Reset my ECU

I don't know if I can specifically point out which item had the most impact. But, here's what I've noticed:

- Car starts like 10 times quicker (less turnover)
- Acceleration is up
- car shifts much smoother
- My exhaust isn't gurgling like it used to when letting off the gas
- I don't have to downshift on steep inclines anymore
- It's completely noticeable how much better my Mini is running

On running the Seafoam through the intake: I had no where near as much smoke as I've seen in videos. Like barely any at all. Not sure what that means?

Thoughts on everything?
Seafoam really seems to work well....not sure why, but I've always had great luck with it. I dump a can in the fuel tank every now and then, and I can almost guarentee to see a 1-2mpg increase on that tank of fuel. I wish the stuff wasn't so darn expensive though.

How did you reset your ECU? Unhooking the battery won't do it. Navigating through the menu on the main gauge cluster and resetting it that way doesn't really do much either. The only real way to reset it is to use the BMW software to reset all of the adaptations in the ECU.

I don't know why your car would shift any smoother....but I'm assuming that the seafoam, and a clean air filter are where most of your gains came from.
 
  #42  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:18 AM
dcantwell's Avatar
dcantwell
dcantwell is offline
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
Seafoam really seems to work well....not sure why, but I've always had great luck with it. I dump a can in the fuel tank every now and then, and I can almost guarentee to see a 1-2mpg increase on that tank of fuel. I wish the stuff wasn't so darn expensive though.

How did you reset your ECU? Unhooking the battery won't do it. Navigating through the menu on the main gauge cluster and resetting it that way doesn't really do much either. The only real way to reset it is to use the BMW software to reset all of the adaptations in the ECU.

I don't know why your car would shift any smoother....but I'm assuming that the seafoam, and a clean air filter are where most of your gains came from.
I used the step by step guide of going through the main gauge cluster.

I'm thinking its just getting such a better mixture of fuel and air and everything just feels so much better.
 
  #43  
Old 11-18-2014, 12:32 AM
808R53's Avatar
808R53
808R53 is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by dcantwell
So I did a few minor things this weekend and I can't believe the difference.

- Added a can of Seafoam to my gas tank
- Ran Seafoam through the intake hose connected to the PCV valve
- Cleaned and Re-oiled my K&N Air Filter
- Reset my ECU

I don't know if I can specifically point out which item had the most impact. But, here's what I've noticed:

- Car starts like 10 times quicker (less turnover)
- Acceleration is up
- car shifts much smoother
- My exhaust isn't gurgling like it used to when letting off the gas
- I don't have to downshift on steep inclines anymore
- It's completely noticeable how much better my Mini is running

On running the Seafoam through the intake: I had no where near as much smoke as I've seen in videos. Like barely any at all. Not sure what that means?

Thoughts on everything?
Did you drive your mini first to warm the engine up?
1. Warm up engine
2. Let PCV Valve SIP on seafoam ( I used 1 whole can)
3. Wait 45 mins.to an hour.
4. Start car, 5 secs later heavy white smoke should be coming out.
5. Change oil.
 
  #44  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:04 AM
homestudiomusician's Avatar
homestudiomusician
homestudiomusician is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KS
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
dcantwell, I just surpassed 103k+ on my R53 and have the same concerns you do in doing some preventive maintenance to keep it on the road. And, regarding changing out your supercharger oil - did you finally do it & if so, how did it come out?
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
34
07-16-2020 12:54 PM
phrza81
MINIs & Minis for Sale
9
10-10-2015 11:37 PM
minicoclub
MINIs & Minis for Sale
1
08-25-2015 09:07 AM
bleonard1401
R60 :: Countryman Talk (2010-2015)
10
08-11-2015 02:53 PM
Lt. Dan
Stock Problems/Issues
2
08-10-2015 12:46 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: R50/53 At 154K, looking for some help to keep my mini running!



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:54 PM.