Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Passenger Window Not Working

  #1  
Old 10-01-2014, 03:12 PM
lazabby's Avatar
lazabby
lazabby is offline
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Passenger Window Not Working

The passenger window suddenly stopped working. All I get is a single "click" when I press the muttong but no action. The window doesn't even slight go down when the door is open. Is the window motor shot beyond compare? If not, how can this be fixed?
 
  #2  
Old 10-01-2014, 06:08 PM
WhoHasGotTheBlueS's Avatar
WhoHasGotTheBlueS
WhoHasGotTheBlueS is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 226
Received 30 Likes on 22 Posts
Hi. There are lots of threads about this problem for 1st gen. Probably it is your motor but could also be your regulator. I just replaced both on my driver side.

There are various DIYs out there and Pelicanparts.com has a reasonably good how to guide.

People will tell you that you can use the "Fonzie" method to make it work temporarily. Simultaneously hit the door above the speaker and press the toggle switch. Sometimes this will get it going. People hit it with the heel of their hand or a rubber mallet. My recommendation is once you get it working, don't delay in replacing the motor because it is easier to remove the glass if you can lower the window a bit. Mine wouldn't budge so I had to unscrew the motor from the motor housing in order to get the window to move without cutting the regulator cable.

The consensus seems to be that you should use a Genuine MINI regulator if you have to replace that.

If you decide to do this, feel free to PM me.
 

Last edited by WhoHasGotTheBlueS; 10-01-2014 at 06:09 PM. Reason: wanted to note fonzie method is temp. fix.
  #3  
Old 10-01-2014, 07:34 PM
gknorr's Avatar
gknorr
gknorr is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,288
Received 70 Likes on 45 Posts
Yup, hitting the door above the bottom speaker while simultaneously pushing the switch repeatedly has been working for me for years - I would say at least 5 years. In fact, based on my experience, if it doesn't work, you're not hitting hard enough or enough times.

With that said, if you don't want to get in the habit of punching the door, there is a way to "recondition" the motor that's not too bad described over on the MINI2 forum. The motor seems to get dirty over time causing incomplete contact with the brushes. Removing, disassembling, and cleaning solves the problem - no need to replace the motor. Maybe someday I'll try it when I'm tired of punching the door
 
  #4  
Old 10-02-2014, 04:54 AM
WhoHasGotTheBlueS's Avatar
WhoHasGotTheBlueS
WhoHasGotTheBlueS is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 226
Received 30 Likes on 22 Posts
Originally Posted by gknorr
Yup, hitting the door above the bottom speaker while simultaneously pushing the switch repeatedly has been working for me for years - I would say at least 5 years. In fact, based on my experience, if it doesn't work, you're not hitting hard enough or enough times.

With that said, if you don't want to get in the habit of punching the door, there is a way to "recondition" the motor that's not too bad described over on the MINI2 forum. The motor seems to get dirty over time causing incomplete contact with the brushes. Removing, disassembling, and cleaning solves the problem - no need to replace the motor. Maybe someday I'll try it when I'm tired of punching the door
Having just taken my motor apart, I am skeptical of the theory that it is caused by a "dirty motor". I had seen that post on MINI2 and thought that cleaning the commutator would be a solution until I took mine apart. When I got my motor opened, the commutator was a tiny bit dirty but not significantly. The brushes were barely worn. But the armature teeth were very worn, and I think this is a reason why the window stops working. I think banging on the door lets it get over the steps between worn areas and unworn, until the steps get so deep you can't get bang the door hard enough to jump over them.

I have more to my analysis but I'll save it for another time.
 
Attached Thumbnails Passenger Window Not Working-windowarmatureleftmcs.jpg  

Last edited by WhoHasGotTheBlueS; 10-05-2014 at 01:43 PM.
  #5  
Old 10-04-2014, 03:47 PM
lazabby's Avatar
lazabby
lazabby is offline
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Can someone send me the links on that discussion and how to remove and repair?


My car is the 2004 Mini if that makes any difference on repairs.
 
  #6  
Old 10-04-2014, 03:55 PM
lazabby's Avatar
lazabby
lazabby is offline
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I went out and banged on it. Sure enough it worked!
 
  #7  
Old 10-04-2014, 05:32 PM
gknorr's Avatar
gknorr
gknorr is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,288
Received 70 Likes on 45 Posts
Originally Posted by WhoHasGotTheBlueS
Having just taken my motor apart, I a skeptical of the theory that it is caused by a "dirty motor". I had seen that post on MINI2 and thought that cleaning the commutator would be a solution until I took mine apart. When I got my motor opened, the commutator was a tiny bit dirty but not significantly. The brushes were barely worn. But the armature teeth were very worn, and I think this is a reason why the window stops working. I think banging on the door lets it get over the steps between worn areas and unworn, until the steps get so deep you can't get bang the door hard enough to jump over them.

I have more to my analysis but I'll save it for another time.
Very interesting. Having never taken mine apart, I just accepted what that other thread covered. Always great to have a second opinion. Do you have any pics of the worn teeth?
 
  #8  
Old 10-04-2014, 09:38 PM
WhoHasGotTheBlueS's Avatar
WhoHasGotTheBlueS
WhoHasGotTheBlueS is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 226
Received 30 Likes on 22 Posts
Originally Posted by gknorr
Very interesting. Having never taken mine apart, I just accepted what that other thread covered. Always great to have a second opinion. Do you have any pics of the worn teeth?
I do! Check out my post 3-4 posts up... there's a photo there that shows the worn armature teeth.

Lazabby, you can find a DIY at Pelican Parts, here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
 
  #9  
Old 10-05-2014, 11:37 AM
gknorr's Avatar
gknorr
gknorr is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,288
Received 70 Likes on 45 Posts
Originally Posted by WhoHasGotTheBlueS
I do! Check out my post 3-4 posts up... there's a photo there that shows the worn armature teeth.
Ah, didn't realize it. The silver parts, some of which are colored green?
 
  #10  
Old 10-05-2014, 01:42 PM
WhoHasGotTheBlueS's Avatar
WhoHasGotTheBlueS
WhoHasGotTheBlueS is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 226
Received 30 Likes on 22 Posts
Yes, exactly. Just below the green bit, you'll see a ridge or step in the armature tooth. There were several such features on mine.
 
  #11  
Old 10-05-2014, 02:23 PM
gknorr's Avatar
gknorr
gknorr is offline
6th Gear
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,288
Received 70 Likes on 45 Posts
Gotcha. That certainly makes sense.

Has anyone tried any aftermarket replacements since the OEM seems to be flawed? I ordered some ACI motors for mine - will finally be replacing them soon.

Will be interesting to see how the wear in my old motors compares to that picture.
 
  #12  
Old 10-05-2014, 02:31 PM
WhoHasGotTheBlueS's Avatar
WhoHasGotTheBlueS
WhoHasGotTheBlueS is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 226
Received 30 Likes on 22 Posts
Definitely post photos of your old motor(s) when you replace them.

My take on the reason for the wear is that the bearing at the end of the shaft is too loose in its seat. When the motor's worm gear engages the other gear, the seat play allows the motor to move off axis & wobble, leading to rubbing between the armature teeth and the magnets. If I am correct, for another brand to perform better the OEM they would have to have a tighter fit between the shaft bearing and seat.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
34
07-16-2020 12:54 PM
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
28
12-23-2015 10:36 AM
minicoclub
MINIs & Minis for Sale
1
08-25-2015 09:07 AM
clintmeister
F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+)
0
08-12-2015 11:11 AM
DWooderson
R60 :: Countryman Talk (2010-2015)
3
08-10-2015 09:12 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Passenger Window Not Working



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:59 PM.