R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Install of madness strut tower reinforcement and strut mount

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Old 07-29-2014, 07:32 PM
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Install of madness strut tower reinforcement and strut mount

I'd like to replace a cracked strut mount and install the madness strut tower reinforcing plates in my R52. Can I get the cracked strut mount off the top of the strut when I lower it to put in the reinforcing plates, or will I have to take the strut out of the car (compress the spring, etc) to get the strut mount off? I was looking at the pelican tech article, and the photo looked like you might have room to get it off, if it is just is sandwiched between the spring and the mount.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...te_Install.htm
 
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:39 PM
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Not exactly the direction you're wanting to go...but...The tower bushings need some serious work to replace, I turned that job over to the local indie shop.
See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...91&hg=31&fg=10
Also, the M7 type tower defender is much easier to install. You just remove the three nuts from the top, lay the plate down and replace the nuts and torque to 25#.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/m7-stru...nt-plates.html
Been down this road already.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:32 AM
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Thanks. I figured out I have to get the strut out of the car, and need a special tool to take the nut off the strut to get the strut mount off. Looks like I'll be buying a spring compressor as well.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:17 PM
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Its pretty easy if you're just swapping the bushing and not the springs.

The pelican article has a whole bunch of unnecessary steps to get the assembly out. Undo the 3 bolts at the top, one bolt where the endlink is attached to the strut, and the one pinch bolt at the bottom of the strut and the whole assembly slides right out when you pull down on the rotor

Pop the assembly in a spring compressor, undo top nut, remove bushing, put the new one in its place, put the top nut back on then throw the assembly back into the car.

Takes maybe 30min a side once you get the car up in the air and the wheels off. If you want to save some money, buy a cheap socket and cut it out like the strut tool. Also, autozone loans out spring compressors at no charge.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the info!
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:42 PM
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Getting the top nut off is one of those jobs that is much easier said than done, particularly if it's corroded on. We're always told not to use an impact gun, but frankly it's about the only way. You can stick a hex key down through the center of a spark plug socket to keep it from turning, but the torque was enough to shear the key in mine, even without any corrosion. Also, the nut is down in a well so you can't even get at it to saw the side off and split it. Unless you're a dedicated do-it-yourselfer it might be a job you want to pay someone to do. Final note: I have a spring compressor but found that it didn't fit very well - didn't matter, with the nut released there isn't enough compression left in the spring (R53 stock) to do any harm. When putting it back on, it's easy to compress the spring enough with your hands to get the nut started and ready for the impact driver ;>)
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sp4rtan
Getting the top nut off is one of those jobs that is much easier said than done, particularly if it's corroded on. We're always told not to use an impact gun, but frankly it's about the only way. You can stick a hex key down through the center of a spark plug socket to keep it from turning, but the torque was enough to shear the key in mine, even without any corrosion. Also, the nut is down in a well so you can't even get at it to saw the side off and split it. Unless you're a dedicated do-it-yourselfer it might be a job you want to pay someone to do. Final note: I have a spring compressor but found that it didn't fit very well - didn't matter, with the nut released there isn't enough compression left in the spring (R53 stock) to do any harm. When putting it back on, it's easy to compress the spring enough with your hands to get the nut started and ready for the impact driver ;>)

I made the tool by cutting apart a socket..easy peezy with a dremel cutting wheel. As for sheering off..I found placing it on the ground against a wood block worked..google lowering mini and that article shows the technique.

Strut mounts as stated above with spring compressor is a 30 ish minutes per side.
 
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyPWR53
Its pretty easy if you're just swapping the bushing and not the springs.

The pelican article has a whole bunch of unnecessary steps to get the assembly out. Undo the 3 bolts at the top, one bolt where the endlink is attached to the strut, and the one pinch bolt at the bottom of the strut and the whole assembly slides right out when you pull down on the rotor

Pop the assembly in a spring compressor, undo top nut, remove bushing, put the new one in its place, put the top nut back on then throw the assembly back into the car.

Takes maybe 30min a side once you get the car up in the air and the wheels off. If you want to save some money, buy a cheap socket and cut it out like the strut tool. Also, autozone loans out spring compressors at no charge.
Do you need to support the wheel assembly or rotor with a jack before you undo everything? I've now got the strut mounts, reinforcing plates, and new strut nuts. I've got it on jack stands with the front wheels off, getting ready to start tomorrow after work.
 
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve_LV
Do you need to support the wheel assembly or rotor with a jack before you undo everything?
I am not sure its 100% necessary but it will make it easier on you if you support under the ball joint so you can wiggle things around and its not that light.. so when reassembling I found it very useful to have the jack under it so that I could jack it back up into place. I guess you could push it up into place if someone was working up top to get the nuts back in -- but by yourself you would need a jack.
 
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve_LV
Do you need to support the wheel assembly or rotor with a jack before you undo everything? I've now got the strut mounts, reinforcing plates, and new strut nuts. I've got it on jack stands with the front wheels off, getting ready to start tomorrow after work.
Its not necessary for disassembly but you will need it unsupported to get the spring/shock assembly out. I had an extra set of hands during reassembly, but as kahnfucious said supporting it with a jack would make it easier to put back together.
 
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:37 PM
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Thanks for the input everyone, I got it done this weekend. The clamshell spring compressor I bought at Harbor Freight would work with the MINI spring, but a fellow club member helped me out with his compressor, and we used his air wrench to take a stubborn strut nut off after I took the struts over to his house.
 
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