R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 R53 Supercharger Apart, what else to change?

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Old 07-24-2014, 12:58 PM
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R53 Supercharger Apart, what else to change?

SO i'll update with pics here later tonight but basically my water pump gear was missing a tooth as well as gears all sharp, no oil in the box... bone dry and the case FULL of a pile of metal shards and metallic powder. SO yeah.... sending it into WMW and replacing it with a nice rebuilt one. Also doing the 17% pulley, Bypass Pressure Valve i guess it's called? for throttle response?, and then input/output gaskets and a belt. Oh and a new water pump. Is there anything else I should test, check or replace while i'm in this deep? SUCH a pain to get to the superchager, i'd like to not see this again for at least a few years

Thanks everyone! Really excited to rebuild this now with a new supercharger and pulley.... thinking cooler plugs, 550cc injectors, CAI after I recoop money from this little tragedy
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:17 PM
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Would recommend the block off plate oring that is behind to supercharger, the water pump flange oring and the small elbow hose coming off the water pump.
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:19 PM
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The rear PTO housing being run dry is quite the norm on stock chargers.

what seals are you referring to as the input/output seals? All the seals and bearings should be replaced by the rebuilder, so no additional labor should be necessary on your end.

The BPV doesn't really improve throttle response, it moreso fixes the "yo-yo" effect around 2500 RPM where the valve is butterflying under the vacuum and unable to stay closed. It will net you a small amount more boost, and possibly a touch of throttle response.

Aside from making sure to order another water pump o-ring for the collar on the engine block, you seem to have everything covered.

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Old 07-24-2014, 01:21 PM
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No need to replace the block off plate o-ring, it's just there to plug the hole for the water pump had you had a non supercharged car. The only other o-ring you need to buy is the one for the waterpump collar on the engine block.
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by nkfry
No need to replace the block off plate o-ring, it's just there to plug the hole for the water pump had you had a non supercharged car. The only other o-ring you need to buy is the one for the waterpump collar on the engine block.
really? no point in replacing a rubber o-ring that is hard to get to and could potentially leak and require removing the supercharger all over again? I mean $4 is not a lot of money when considering the time it takes to replace it if it starts to leak down the road.
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:56 PM
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My bone dry s/c was still turning the water pump somehow. It's an 02 with 95k miles.

I did the thermostat and housing while i was in there. Pretty sure it was never done before.

Wish I would have done the tensioner pulley too at the same time. Put it all back together and the thing was making a lot of noise. Couldn't really here it before with the s/c grinding so much.
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:49 AM
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I can't seem to find a tensioner pulley on WMW or the R53 thermostat. Darnit.... Should I consider switching out the crank pulley or just leave all of the pulleys alone besides the 17% sc pulley?
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:55 AM
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nm.. found the thermostat with gasket and housing
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:22 PM
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Chnaged the tensioner and idler pulley too.

550cc injectors? Tuning is a must!
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:32 PM
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Is a 240$ tensioner really necessary? Just curious as to why you would change it and if i can look or test to see if mine needs replacing....
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax
Is a 240$ tensioner really necessary? Just curious as to why you would change it and if i can look or test to see if mine needs replacing....
Amazon.com: Gates 38404 Belt Tensioner: Automotive Amazon.com: Gates 38404 Belt Tensioner: Automotive
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:57 PM
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Over the years/mileage the spring tension gets week and pulley bearing wears out. If there is a way for you test the acceptable tension let me know how you did it. At a minimum change out the pulley and that little shock.
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:04 PM
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And dont spend $240

Get the amazon one or pick one from rockauto.com
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:27 PM
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Okay so... here is the not so brief shopping cart for WMW, and then I'll get that tensioner from amazon or rockauto.

WMW Early Xmas List:
R53 Ported Rebuilt Supercharger
Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve
Thermostat/ Housing/ Seal
Water Pump Oring
Valve Cover Gasket
Water Pump Hose
Idler Pulley

Grand total: 1400$ POOF!
 
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:00 AM
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WOW 1400usd for all those.

That rebuild charger must be close to 1k.
I would ask for hard data if the ported charger did actually made a difference vs regular rebuild. I'm pretty sure they charged extra for porting the supercharger.

As far as the bypass valve i simply opened up the valve and spread the spring. Next, i adjusted the flapper stopper to fully close. If you are not mechanically inclined dont attempt it. Are you required to surrender your core (bypass valve) to the vendor?

Is your thermostat housing cracked and leaking? I dont remember messing with the housing when working with the supercharger.

Valve cover spewing oil? Re-torque the valve cover bolts and see if that fixes the issue
 
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Old 07-26-2014, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax
Okay so... here is the not so brief shopping cart for WMW, and then I'll get that tensioner from amazon or rockauto. WMW Early Xmas List: R53 Ported Rebuilt Supercharger Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve Thermostat/ Housing/ Seal Water Pump Oring Valve Cover Gasket Water Pump Hose Idler Pulley Grand total: 1400$ POOF!
Don't forget the 2 sc gaskets and the green gasket too.

Going to do the Crank Position sensor while the SC is out?
 
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:37 PM
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Pulley sensor? Not one person has recommended that one to me yet..is it just the seal that leaks to be replaced or the entire sensor? Seems like now i have a milion things that people are saying to replace while i'm in there.... haha
 
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:37 PM
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Position sensor, not pulley. Also referred to as CPS.
It's a little round thing that screws on the block behind the SC and the tiny o ring is a common leak point. It's impossible to replace without removing the SC
 
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:34 PM
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i highly agree with the CPS O-RING.
 
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:53 AM
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CPS o-ring or the entire CPS to be replaced? I can handle another 4$
WMW is supposed to be receiving my SC tomorrow so i'm just making a cart so when they call me i can just submit the cart and try to get all of these new parts back to me by the weekend!! Pretty stoked to rebuild my car next weekend... this driving the companies delivery van for 2 weeks is BORING! I WANNA SCREAM DOWN SOME S CURVES!!!!
 
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:59 AM
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I disagree re: the observation above that it is impossible to remove the CPS without removing the supercharger. I changed the o-ring on mine when I replaced my radiator, but the SC remained in place.
 
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:51 AM
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Okay.. i'll change the o ring on the CPS. Another question guys... since i'm going from no mods to a 17% reduction and a new belt... what are the plugs you guys recommend? and should i also do the Coil Pack?
 
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:09 AM
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When you reduce your pulley you need to run "one step colder" plugs and different belt. I think NGK is the norm these days.
The stock coilpack has been discussed as the best.
 
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:44 AM
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NGK Iridium are added now as well! I'll post my cart here in a second but i think we're good to order now so it seems
 
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:07 AM
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Kay... here is my shopping list so far:

NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
17% belt
17% pulley
Water Pump hose
Water Pump
New Rebuilt Supercharger
SC Inlet / Outlet gaskets
valve cover gasket
idler pulley
Crank Position Sensor oring
Thermostat /housing/ gasket

I'll mod the BPV myself so it closes... and then
order the Gates Tensioner off of amazon. This sound about right?
 


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