R50/53 My r53s progress thus far
#376
#377
#378
#379
#381
#384
After a long and painful hiatus, I've finally scraped up the funds to get a used transmission to replace my failed input shaft bearing trans. I had the common issue of the rattle when clutch was let out and went away when pressed in, thought it was the throwout bearing so I had a new clutch put in. No dice, still made noise and was told the input bearing was toast. So many dollars later I'm about to pull the trigger on a used trans with LSD, an upgrade from my open diff.
I believe the subframe is dropped to do the swap, but not sure. If so I'd like to have my mechanic replace the control arm bushings while he's in there. Hoping someone can confirm this. Also is there any other items I can get replaced that won't add much labor to my bill? Im thinking redline fluid this time and maybe a new gasket somewhere on the trans? Lastly, will the switch to LSD mess with the asc at all or require any coding?
Sorry for the long post, can't wait to get back behind the wheel.
I believe the subframe is dropped to do the swap, but not sure. If so I'd like to have my mechanic replace the control arm bushings while he's in there. Hoping someone can confirm this. Also is there any other items I can get replaced that won't add much labor to my bill? Im thinking redline fluid this time and maybe a new gasket somewhere on the trans? Lastly, will the switch to LSD mess with the asc at all or require any coding?
Sorry for the long post, can't wait to get back behind the wheel.
#385
Since you have to drop the trans to get it out, I'm almost positive that the sub frame must come out as well. I just did my LCA bushings and went ahead and replaced my front sway bushings with poly bushings. You can also go ahead and do ball joints while you're at it as this is the ideal time to.
If your PS lines are leaking this would also be something to consider since it drops down with the sub frame.
Also, for the trans fluid, you can do that as long as you have simple serif sockets/wrenches. No need in them tacking on extra money when you can do it in 30 minutes.
Past that someone else will need to chime in. Since yours is a face lift I'm not sure what other motor mounts/bushings are accessible.
My clutch chatters and I've just written it off as the DMF since that's seems to be the general consensus. I'll probably be going with the Valeo when the time comes to get rid of the chatter. And of course an LSD eventually would be ideal.
If your PS lines are leaking this would also be something to consider since it drops down with the sub frame.
Also, for the trans fluid, you can do that as long as you have simple serif sockets/wrenches. No need in them tacking on extra money when you can do it in 30 minutes.
Past that someone else will need to chime in. Since yours is a face lift I'm not sure what other motor mounts/bushings are accessible.
My clutch chatters and I've just written it off as the DMF since that's seems to be the general consensus. I'll probably be going with the Valeo when the time comes to get rid of the chatter. And of course an LSD eventually would be ideal.
#386
Since you have to drop the trans to get it out, I'm almost positive that the sub frame must come out as well. I just did my LCA bushings and went ahead and replaced my front sway bushings with poly bushings. You can also go ahead and do ball joints while you're at it as this is the ideal time to. If your PS lines are leaking this would also be something to consider since it drops down with the sub frame. Also, for the trans fluid, you can do that as long as you have simple serif sockets/wrenches. No need in them tacking on extra money when you can do it in 30 minutes. Past that someone else will need to chime in. Since yours is a face lift I'm not sure what other motor mounts/bushings are accessible. My clutch chatters and I've just written it off as the DMF since that's seems to be the general consensus. I'll probably be going with the Valeo when the time comes to get rid of the chatter. And of course an LSD eventually would be ideal.
- sway bar bushings
- inner and outer ball joints
- control arm brackets with bushings
- lower engine mount
#387
I completely forgot about the oil cooler now that you mention it. I even looked at it while I had the sub frame out and wished that I needed an oil change since that and the oil filter housing are both getting new gaskets/O-rings when it comes time again.
To save you a little dough I would recommend the Super Pro front sway bar bushings rather than the Powerflex. It's only a $30-$40 difference depending on shipping but you could throw that towards the labor since your mechanic is doing it. He also shouldn't charge you any more for it considering the bolts that hold the sway bar brackets on are the ones that hold the control arm brackets on.
To save you a little dough I would recommend the Super Pro front sway bar bushings rather than the Powerflex. It's only a $30-$40 difference depending on shipping but you could throw that towards the labor since your mechanic is doing it. He also shouldn't charge you any more for it considering the bolts that hold the sway bar brackets on are the ones that hold the control arm brackets on.
#388
I also did oil cooler, oil filter housing, oil pan, oil dip stick, crank position o ring, valve cover gasket, supercharger oil change, belt etc when I did my transmission swap. Nothing really added much time on to the whole thing, maybe two hours, but going back later would have been a real pain. I am using Red line fluid and have no complaints. I did lose my cruise control going from an 04 to an 05 transmission but that has to do with gear ratios, not the limited slip. I have had no issues with traction control at all and there was no coding done. By the way, if anyone knows if and what the fix for the cruise control is, I'm all ears.
#389
I also did oil cooler, oil filter housing, oil pan, oil dip stick, crank position o ring, valve cover gasket, supercharger oil change, belt etc when I did my transmission swap. Nothing really added much time on to the whole thing, maybe two hours, but going back later would have been a real pain. I am using Red line fluid and have no complaints. I did lose my cruise control going from an 04 to an 05 transmission but that has to do with gear ratios, not the limited slip. I have had no issues with traction control at all and there was no coding done. By the way, if anyone knows if and what the fix for the cruise control is, I'm all ears.
#390
#392
#393
I wasn't sure if they needed to be greased occasionally, which is something I don't want to deal with, plus the cost of the bushings and any extra fiddling with pressing them in to save on labor cost. This job is going to cost quite a bit. My stock bushings are actually still holding up so I'm hoping they will suffice.
#394
#395
Way will pre-press the Powerflex poly bushings for $20 after returning your core bracket. I don't believe they need to be greased.
#396
#397
#400