yea or a very long breaker bar and over-torqued it at a quick lube . Try rocking the lid ( rocking method of loosening a stuck bolt ), tighten a hair , then loosen a hair and be careful. Till it screws off. " Righty tighty lefty loosey " yep.

 

You have to put oil on the rubber o ring before re installing, done it on all my cars and trucks never had problem taking off.

 

I ended up picking up a 3/4" 22" breaker bar, and trimming down a short 36 mm socket to fit on it. (too long, had a metal shop take a chop saw to it).

It still didn't want to break free. I grabbed a mallet and gave it a light whack, and she broke free. I still ended up not changing my oil as my topside drill pump couldn't pull enough oil out. Seemed like I only got a little over a liter out, repositioned the hose, still couldn't get more. Even had the car pointed nose down on an incline. *sigh* Anyhow, long story short, I'll take it to a garage and get it changed there. (driveway is too steep for jacking the car up, and even on the street it's too much of an angle to risk putting myself under the car).

 

That's why I love my Fumoto valve. I get the front wheels on the garage floor (with the rest of the car outside on a small incline) and I can put my oil drain pan under, open the valve and wait.

 

I have one on order. I won't mind getting the car up and putting some wood under it for extra safety for the moment it takes to connect a hose and flick the lever. I do worry about being under there for a few minutes while trying to loosen what I'm sure is a super over-torqued drain plug. ;-) That's why I'll get the garage to put the Fumoto in while they're doing the change.

 

We have the oil filter socket tool here, and its small enough not to hit the firewall even with a driver.

36mm 6-Point Oil Filter Socket - 3/8" Drive

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES240945/



thanks

 

Had similar problem with Volvo housing. Install the filter firmly into the housing ensuring it is all the way in and seated. If it is not seated, you can cross thread the housing when attempting to install cover damaging the threads. At least on the volvo the filter is downwards under the engine and you can see the threads when installing.

 

The torque specs for both the oil filter and the drain plug are not very much... around 20 ft-lbs. The monkey-techs are the problem... even at MINI dealers. Both my filter housing and drain plugs were way over-torqued by certified MINI techs. The drain plug came loose at 50 ft-lbs... certified idiots.

Since the end of free service, I've done 5 oil changes myself at 10k intervals and had no problems. Just remember to wipe clean groove for the o-ring gasket, lube the o-ring, clean the housing surface and smear a light coat of oil on it. And when installing, turn it by hand as far as you can before using a torque wrench. Tighten it slowly... any cross-threading would be noticeable.

BTW, I use a Lisle 14500 low profile socket with 3/8" drive.

 

Do you still have the tool? I broke my Hex head.