Yes, I am actually repairing the boards- at least I am replacing missing switches or those that work poorly. I haven't run into a board that is broken outside of bad switches. I suspect if your board worked when you swapped (or at least replaced) the IC the transmit circuitry had failed. If you go to my link above ("self appointed expert") and look at the pictures of the circuit boards, there is a rectangular metal can kind of between the two switches. That is most likely a crystal and the most likely component to fail or drift off frequency. In the U.S. I believe the car remote frequency is 315 MHz, and I check each key I repair (3 so far!) for proper transmit operation with a spectrum analyzer (while I am at work) to make sure the key is actually transmitting, since the car is often in another city. I'm pretty sure if I had checked your original circuit board there would have been no transmit power or it would have been off frequency.

One last question- did your red LED light up on your original board when it wasn't working? I'm curious if that LED just shows that the buttons are making contact or if it actually indicates proper operation.

Val

 

There was a little bit of the story I left out for brevity.
When I got the car the remote did not work, I changed the battery and still nothing. I didn't notice the LED right away because it didn't work. I checked the function of the switches with a VOM and they cycled. Checking it out more closely was a rainy day project that I just never got around to.
A couple months down the line I pushed the button and it worked. I assumed that it must have a bad solder joint so I took the board out to retouch the joints, that is when I noticed the LED because it was blinking now when you pushed the button.
I examined then retouched every solder joint on the board and it continued to function for several months, then one day, as quickly as it started working...it quit working and so did the LED.

I repair electronics but normally I don't fool with surface mount boards. The components are hard to identify, many can't be tested right because they are in circuit and even if you find what is wrong replacement can be dicey. My shop is getting a spectrum analyzer and I will let you know what frequency it is using.
Since I have a donor remote now, I have made it my mission to draw up the schematic and identify all the components on these damn things.

 

As promised, I said I would keep this thread up to date as I made progress. For the past few weeks I have been trying to figure out the process for coding the remote to the BC1 so I could see if my code cipher was correct. Thanks to info posted by rwk earlier in this thread (thankfully I went back and read it again after understanding more) I was able to get the 2 remotes I purchased off of Ebay to work. One was a Land Rover remote as described earlier in this thread, so I can confirm 100% that a working used remote from either a 02-04 Mini or 99-04 Land Rover Discovery II can be coded to the car with the correct barcode. I am putting together a guide for anyone that wants it. The guide explains all Mini keys 02-06 and what can and can't be done. It also includes a guide to deciphering the 6 digit code in the remote into your barcode. This whole process has been a 2+ month long ordeal and has taken me many hours (I got sucked in and had to see it to the end) between figuring out the cipher, installing all the software for trying the barcode, and figuring out the exact procedure for coding the remote to the car. I will be finishing it in the next week or so and be releasing it. At some point I will try to put this all in the how-to section. Thanks goes out to rkw for posting the stuff in post #16 that helped me finish this and my wife for putting up with me during this.
I am curious how many people on here are interested in the guide. If you are interested, let me know in this thread so I can see how many people this guide may help.

This is the index of the guide contents.

 

I'd be interested...because you probably just killed off my burgeoning MINI key repair business! Just kidding- I'm interested because I'm a MINI owning engineer and the more I know about the keys and how they work the better I am able to help somebody. Besides, I'm pretty sure that even a key that needs a new case, a switch button (or 2!) and a battery (but otherwise works) will be cheaper to repair than getting an eBay key and reprogramming it.

Different ways to solve the same problem- your method will be great for those who don't even have a remote key to start (!) with.

Val

 

For sure I would be interested. I've been following your thread and kudos on the work you put into this, I wish I could of contributed. I only have 1 remote key so I've been thinking its time to get a spare.

 

I would be interested in the information.

 

Alright boys and girls, I have edited and pasted till I couldn't edit and paste any more.

I was able to code 3 used remotes one of which was a Land Rover remote as described earlier in this thread and in the guide. All told for 3 used remotes, 2 new key cases, and 2 non-remote keys (for the transponder chip and cut blades) from Mini I spent about $175 for 3 fully working remote keys. Using the coding software listed in the guide, I was also able to block all of the keys that the previous owner lost from working with my Mini.

I cannot stress this enough, because I cannot help 1000 people try to install sofware, code, troubleshoot etc... Read the guide before buying anything to make sure you are comfortable with the software install and coding (Unless of course you are taking your barcode to the dealer). The software install is NOT easy although I have tried to give some hints and tips to make it easier. If you attempt the install and have trouble, Google is your friend. There is a ton of info for troubleshooting out there.

Drop me a PM or post here if this helps you out.

https://sites.google.com/site/minian...verremotekeys/

 

So bottom line is... the immobilizer must be programmed at the dealer to have a new key that starts the vehicle and remotely opens the door?

 

I will add this to the guide to clear up potential confusion.

The answer to your question is no you can do the immobilizer chip coding yourself if your goal is to stay away from the dealer and/or do everything yourself. My goal was to save money on this project. From what I found, the immobilizer chips are $20 for a 5 pack, and the blade cutting is $35-50 per blade. To program the immobilizer chip with a code, you need a device to do the coding which is another cost of at least $75 from what I found. My dealer charges $42 for a non-remote key, so it was just easier and cheaper to purchase the key from them that contained both and switch the chip and blade over to my remote keys.

Here is how the immobilizer deal works:
From the factory your Mini shipped with an EWS module (Immobilizer) that contains 10 preset and active immobilizer codes. Your Mini came with a certain number of keys with chips in them from the factory. These codes can be locked out so that any lost keys will not start your car, the keys will however still be able to unlock your doors. In addition, you can program up to 4 remotes into the BC1 at a time and can delete any missing remotes so they won't remotely open your doors.

If you go to the dealer and purchase a new key they will ask you for proof of ownership and your VIN #. The dealership does not do anything with the keys except take your money and program remotes. Instead, they subcontract out to another company who cuts the blanks and programs the immobilizer chip. This company takes your VIN and looks up which of the 10 preset codes have been issued to your car. If you have any codes left, you are issued another chip with one of the remaining preset codes. If you do not have any codes left, you will have to purchase a new EWS unit. The key that they ship to the dealer will start your car and open the doors without any intervention from the dealer, however If it is a remote key, it will not open the doors remotely until the remote is paired to the car.

If you want tackle it yourself, you can purchase an immobilizer chip coder and the chips (ID44) and do it all yourself. The cheaper chip coders require you to take out your EWS unit and touch wires to specific points in the unit for the coder to read out data. The more expensive units can code EWS data through the OBDII port, but they are not cheap. One good thing about not going through the dealer is that you can program the EWS to accept more than the 10 preset codes. This may be a cheaper option if you find that you need a new EWS because all 10 preset codes have been used. Additionally, some locksmiths have the ability to do the EWS coding, so you may be able to find someone that could help you get the deal done without having to go through the dealer.

 

Wow. Transferring title of "self appointed expert" over to you. I'm just a monkey with a soldering iron.

Val

 

Ok, after reading all of this can any one tell me if I can take the blade off of my 04 and transplant it onto one of the new style switchblade type keys made as an upgraded key? The new one has the correct button placement.

 

Here's a link to my thread where I have pictures of several keys being repaired. I've seen those switchblade style keys on eBay and was intrigued. I haven't been able to get the blade out of a shell yet without destroying the shell. In each case that was not a problem as the shell was already trashed, so be prepared for that in case your shell is still in good shape. Hopefully the new switchblade style will not have the blade "pinned" in (you'll see what I mean when you open your key) so you won't have to try and pull the blank one out.

Key Refurbishment How To

Val

 

Thanks Val! I had read your Refurb post awhile back and that's what got me to thinking about the updated key. So it looks like I will have to order the switchblade key to see if I have to swap out the blade. I have called around Arizona trying to find someone who can cut a MINI key but have had no luck. MINI just keeps saying they have to order a key with the chip. Any body from Arizona know where I can just get the key cut?

 

I took a close look at the eBay ads for the switchblade style keys and couldn't determine for sure how the blade is connected to the thing that swings. I'm guessing that it might be removable but it might be riveted or spot welded to the swinging thing. In that case, you might have to have the blade of the new one cut. Unless you can secure your blade to the new key very well I would advise against it. Think about trying to get that blade out of the door or ignition lock if it comes undone.

If you do this I'd love it if you could post good closeup pictures of the process over at the thread I started.

Thanks-

Val

 

I think I will wait to attempt this after the holidays, I haven't even started my Christmas shopping yet.

 

I looked at the Ebay switchblade keys when I was getting my keys and decided against getting one because they look a lot bigger than the normal Mini key. The head of the normal mini key is like 1/3 the size by the looks. As far as the blade, I could not tell if the blade was removable either which also caused me to think twice about it.

Valvashon, I noticed in your key repair thread a while back that one of the keys you repaired had a screw through the blade under the molded side which you had to drill the plastic to get to. The three keys I purchased did not have the screw thankfully. All I had to do was take my own screw of that size and screw it into the part of the pin that is accessible and pull the pin out via my screw.

 

No screws in the keys I have repaired. I was drilling on the first key (my own) in order to create a hole to punch the roll pin out. The angle and the soft plastic made that impossible, so I turned to the Stanley 99E carpet knife. If you cut the plastic you see by the pin the blade and pin will kind of pivot out. The other side can be cut as well if you need to. I have always been able to re-use the existing roll pin and it has always provided a tight fit when the blade is put in the new key.

Val

 

To remove the blade: I found that a tap on a tap handle worked great. I believe it was either a #2 or 4 machine thread. I was going to tap the inside of the roll pin and use a screw to extract it but the tap worked great on its own.

FYI on new keys from the dealer; I did an exhaustive search and I found NO dealers that would sell keys without the owner, title/registration, and photo ID present at the time of ordering. They even refused notarized copy's sent by certified mail.
I also thought I might try the BMW dealer (a mere 125 miles closer than the nearest Mini dealer). The service manager regretfully informed me that BMW dealers can order every part and perform every repair on Minis except keys.

My company sent me to Minneapolis last week, where there is a Mini dealer. I took my title with me, $82 and two days later I had a new non remote key. Even with paid receipt in hand, I still had to show photo ID when I picked it up.

 

I realize that it is an inconvenience for many people, but I actually appreciate the way that MINI handles ordering a new key. I might feel different if I had a MINI and still lived in my hometown of Fargo, where the nearest MINI dealer is in Minneapolis. However, if they handed them out with less identification what would be the point of the immobilizer chip, etc.? I can't believe the number of times I hear about a Subaru or Honda getting jacked. MINI's almost never go missing.

Val

 

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate that BMW takes security serious, and as a policy that one might draft in the vacuum of a boardroom somewhere it is a superb idea to have such stringent rules. In the real world where dealers might be located hundreds of miles from the customer, not so much so.
How about striking a balance between simply handing out keys to anyone with your vin that asks and the way they do it? Perhaps an affidavit with notarized copies of ownership and identity documents along with a signature required delivery. Or for heaven's sake at least allow BMW dealers to order Mini keys with the same requirements, that would at least increase the odds of finding a dealer.

I live 200 miles from the nearest Mini dealer so unless I happen to have have business somewhere that has one, like I did, it means 800 miles of driving and 2 days of my time to get a key....slightly more than inconvenient

 

Nice work, 04_Indi_Mini_S. You are one determined Madman. Thank you.
By the way, if you get some time, can you figure out how to get an ATM machine to just empty itself when I enter my PIN?

 

NP. Haha... I think I said it earlier in this thread, but my friends and family have learned over the years not to tell me something can't be done. I enjoy a challenge, and can't help myself sometimes.
Out of curiosity I Googled the ATM thing and apparently it has already been done, or more appropriately is being done. Not surprising actually.

 

Indi,
In the Google document you wrote (nice add), you stated: 'If you get easyDIS working, the procedure for coding your remote to your car is laid out in detail after the hints section.'

Unfortunately the document doesn't have any Hints section. :( I'm assuming this was a work in progress task that never got completed? Hopefully we can get this? The trouble is, there is a DIS, SSS, and INPA for starters. The difference between these is not well understood. From what I can tell, though, the DIS is an offline tool that really doesn't give you any interface for programming the car. But I know you went around and around with this stuff so maybe I'm just missing something?

Thanks...

 

I just checked the Google doc and the hints section is there under the "easyDIS v44" tab. On the left bar of the Google doc you will see that certain sections have a grey arrow next to them. If you click on the grey arrows the threads expand and more pages are viewable. I did not realize that the full document wasn't viewable from the get go as it is for me. If you can't get it to work, PM me your email and I will shoot you a PDF of the whole thing.

You can also link from here:
--Install Hints--
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...allation-hints

--Key Coding Step By Step--
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...s-step-by-step

DIS and SSS used to be separate and independent of each other as dealer programming software. SSS was integrated into DIS I believe after version 44. All of the versions that I found online that were after v44 (ie:v53) had SSS included but they were missing some of the files that related to the coding section. To do the key coding and some other stuff for that matter, you only need a working version of DIS v44 or earlier, you don't need SSS. I say a working version, because the first version I tried to install was corrupt and did not install fully so I had to search for another place to download and eventually got a working version.
INPA and some of the other software are good for changing parameters relating to functions of the car such as the speed at which your doors lock but I found nothing relating to the type of coding that relates to the keys.

If you need further help after reading the hints and step by step, let me know and I will try to work you through it. Also, let me know if the hints section and step by step are viewable since I can see them but I am also signed into my Google Sites account.

 

wow I congratulate you for your tenacity

so you're able to re-encode your key?

if I bought a used key and I used this method I could encode it?