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RT = Rot = Red
GE = Gelb = Yellow
GN = Grün = Green
BL = Blau = Blue
VI = Violet = Purple
GR = Grau = Grey
BR = Braun = Brown
WS = Weiss = White
SW = Schwarz = Black
xx/yy = xx wire's main color with yy stripe

 

Nur ein bisschen, aber vielen dank!

You're my new hero!!!

 

BTW, the inputs are in German too.

VL = Vor Links (Front Left)
VR= Vor Rechts (Front Right)
HL = Hinter Links (Rear Left)
HR = Hinter Rechts (Rear Right)

The + and - are self explanatory.

 

and with that last post this thread has achieved legendary status.




everything anyone could want to know about upgrading their sound system has been explained (if you don't count changing the headunit)

The inputs to the amp are also the speaker leads in the non-HiFi system.

The only thing left is for some people to show some examples of subwoofer installs.

 

So what's the best speaker level to line level converter? Soundgate? Seems easier than using a JL cleansweep (and cheaper)

 

Confirmed.

Radio Wiring (no amp)
Radio Power, Antenna, CAN, MOST
Connector Pinout

 

Excellent! Vielen dank!

 

NOTES/DISCLAIMER:
!!! THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS !!!
!!! THIS IS FOR THE HIFI SYSTEM, AND LABELS THE AMP CONNECTOR(S) IN THE REAR OF THE CAR !!!
!!! PLAY WITH THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR CAR !!!

Last Update: 19 Jun 07 (Pin 10 amp connector).

What I ultimately intend to do is replace the stock amp and speakers, but use as much of the factory harness and locations as possible. I figure I can use the speaker level inputs that run to the amp, and either convert them to RCA or get an amp with speaker level inputs. Then, I'll put the crossovers in the rear quarter as well, and run the factory speaker wires from there.

I still need a little help, because the car uses both CAN and MOST (two new busses). There shouldn't be any real impact digging into the system at the amp, unless your car has navigation, bluetooth, etc... I have no idea at that point.

Here's oPossum's link to the connector pinout The pinout is important, because in some cases (like the rear woofers) the same color wire is used more than once.
If you don't want to cut the wires on the connector, you can pick up a tool at many PC shops to remove them from the connector... like THIS or THIS

Power Input
(Pin - Wire Color - Function)

5 - Red/Gray (This is a 20A circuit that should provide power to a modest aftermarket amp without needing to run a seperate lead)

10 - Power Antenna lead (to turn on your aftermarket amp. I'll check the voltage/operation when I can).

26 - Brown (Ground)

18 - Orange/Green (No idea, but it causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_L")

19 - Green (No idea, but also causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_H")

Audio Input (Speaker level input from headunit)
(Pin - WireColor - Polarity)

Front Left
38 - Black/Red (+)
30 - Black/Purple (-)

Front Right
9 - Yellow/Brown (+)
17 - Yellow/Black (-)

Rear Left
37 - Blue/Brown (+)
29 - Blue/Black (-)

Rear Right
8 - Brown/Orange (+)
16 - Yellow/Red (-)


Output (Speakers)

Front Left Woofer (6 1/2")
41 - Black/Red (+)
42 - Black/Purple (-)

Front Right Woofer (6 1/2")
39 - Yellow/Purple (+)
40 - Yellow/Gray (-)

Front Left Mid/Tweet*
33 - Blue/White (+)
34 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here. The schematic is confusing, but I believe this lead goes to the 3 1/2" mid, with the tweeter slaved off this lead with a capacitor. DyeLooper noted the colors to his (HIFI) mid, and MotorMouth noted the tweeter has a cap. The colors for the tweeter wires should be Brown/Orange (+) and Blue/Red (-)

Front Right Mid/Tweet*
11 - Blue/Black (+)
12 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here as well, as noted above. Colors for the tweet should be Brown/Orange (+) and Yellow/Black (-).

Rear Left Woofer (6x9)
4 - Red/White (+)
3 - Brown (-)

Rear Right Woofer (6x9)
23 - Red/White (+)
22 - Brown/White (-)

Rear Left Tweeter*
31 - Yellow/Black (+)
32 - Yellow/Brown (-)
*There are a couple of manufacturers of component 6x9's, but 5x7 or 6x8 components are more common. These leads aren't necessary if you use a coax or triax 6x9.

Rear Right Tweeter*
13 - Yellow (+)
21 - Brown (-)
*Same note as Rear Left Tweeter.

 

Solid brown is always ground on BMW, VW, Audi, etc...

Yes, it is CAN bus. The old H/K sytem used I-Bus to talk to the amp. If it didn't find the amp it would disable the H/K specific features. The R56 may do the same thing.

Pin 13 on the radio is switched power for amp turn on.

Amp power goes through the JBE. Looks like a dedicated circuit. Cars with the new engine auto start/stop system power the amp from the DC/DC converter. That converter must be HUGE!

Amp Power Detail

 

OK, so the JBE has a relay (I01068)that switches power to the amp. The $64K question is when does it turn power on and off?

May not be necessary to run a wire from pin 13 of the radio.

 

You sure about pin 13? Not enough info in the schematic, but I figured it went to the volume ****/on-off switch.

 

The radio connector follows a standard pinout. Pin 13 is for the power antenna.

Power Antenna Wiring

 

I've traced it a couple of times, and it looks like Pin 13 from the radio goes ends up at Pin 10 of the amplifier. Again, I'll have to get a multimeter out to verify; but if that's the case... it completes the requirements to put a differrent amp in place of the HiFi. Biggest question at that point would be: What's the effect of not having a component in the CAN bus? It looks like it runs in parallel, but I don't know if the system will be "looking" for the amp.

What's confusing me is that "The amplifier has a separate power supply. The amplifier is switched on by the RAD_ON signal from the ASK (> 8 V = ON / < 6 V = OFF)."

 

It does go to pin 10 of the amp. I missed that page. Here it is

The CAN bus is usually terminated in the harness (120 ohm resistor at each end), rather than in any module. Disconnecting the amp shouldn't cause the bus to become unstable. If the radio doesn't like it, maybe it could be recoded by the dealer.

Why is that confusing?

 

Who told you that?

Official MINI online service manual

 

If it's sending that signal over the antenna lead, it's not. I couldn't tell if it was coming over the bus with the info to adjust the sound.

 

1 year subscription - $2500

 

So while on the topic of trying to figure out the proper pins for amps... I don't have the Hi-Fi system seeing as I figured I would end up replacing most of the system eventually. I know that mikethemini does full system replacements over the pond, but I am trying to figure out how to do the same thing to my Mini. I've got it narrowed down to an amp in the place of the DSC foam block and speakers in the doors using the stock wires (not desired, but the only real way to do it). My only question is how to take off enough of the center console to get to the back side of the radio to tap into the connector or use one of Mike's special connectors? I know it is pretty involved, but that seems to be the only method for for getting a signal on the stock non-HiFi system correct? Any recommendations on where to look for removing the dash?

Thanks.

 

I'd look at the exploded views on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...31&hg=51&fg=30
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...31&hg=51&fg=35

 

That's kinda what I was worried about. I was hoping that someone had some input/experience on taking the dash apart to get to the connector on the back of the head unit.

I'll be set once I can get that figured out.

 

hey i installed polk db6500 in my integra gsr, you wouldnt by chance know how the focals compare to the polks do you?

 

MM,
I am looking to replace my speakers but i would like a little more endorsement from you. The HiFi setup sounds good to me. the problem is that i like loud music. And i like to drive with the roof open. I find that i need to keep the volume down because of the distortion in the higher frequencies. low frequency distortion is probably there as well but i cant detect it due to the wind noise.
My goal in replacing the speakers would be volume. Will the focals do that for me? i will be using the stock amp and capacitor on the tweeter as you had first done before the new amp.
eventually, i amy also tear apart the back so that i can get to the amp and i will disconnect the rear tweeter wires. (to keep the soundstage forward). it would be interesting to throw in some 6x9 midbass drivers....
thanks
(still waiting for skuzzy to give an opinion of the focals from the stock HiFi amp!)

 

You'll be happy with the front focals in place of the stock speakers. They go alot louder before distorting although there is distortion at the really high end (relative to stock) due to the amp running out of juice. The front focals will give more midbass by themselves than the complete hi-fi system including the 6x9's in the back.

The last I heard from skuzzy is that it sems to be monsoon season where he lives and hasn't stopped raining long enough for him to install them.

Although I have the focal 6x9s in the back running off the stock amp there may be a better choice since there are no highs going to the 6x9s. I read somewhere where someone used MDF to make a plate to cover the 6x9 hole and made a cutout for a 6" midbass driver. You might be able to do the same thing for a 7" (if you can find one). Look for one with a high db per watt level since the amp only pushs 40 watts to them (and distorts at that wattage).

If I didn't bridge my 4 channel amp to the front focals I would have had the amp powering the 6x9s also and I'm sure they'd rock a LOT more than they do. I think I like it more with twice the power going up front though.

The focals really shine with 100w+ per channel going to them.

 

thank you. I am also considering the less expensive JL audio 3 way set. and these http://www.theautophile.com/products...sNavFrame.html
for the rear. (i really wont be getting these due to price, availability and my fear of tearing apart the rear to get to them....

 

kookmyers - Since price seems to be somewhat of an issue for you; get into the tone menu and try turning the bass down a bit (-1 or 2), and fading a little to the rear (3 or 4). I think you'll be surprised how loud the HiFi can get (and still maintain decent punch). Bass takes a lot of wattage, but the highs are the first to really show the amp is clipping.

Adding better speakers will do a little for clarity, but not really volume. The HiFi amp still only makes so much power. If volume is what you're after (and the settings above don't work for you); you might consider upgrading the amp first. It's a whole lot harder to blow a mediocre speaker with a powerful amp than it is to blow a good speaker with a crappy amp.

Rule of thumb is:

Bigger amp if you want it loud,
Better speakers if you want it clear,
Both if you want it loud and clear.