R56 speaker replacement how-to

[Skuzzy]

I have the Focal Polyglass 165 V3 E and 690 CV1's for mine.

Why the hot glue for the tweeter?

Excellent tip about the panel clips. I'll be sure to get some extra before I start.

I am looking forward to getting my car so I can get to work on it. I was really hoping to have the car by the end of the month, but it looks like it will be mid-May, at this rate. OY!!! ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!

[DyeLooper]

Motormouth,
So you had the Hi-Fi Upgrade. There were no crossovers on the stock speakers correct? The hi-fi upgrade, that comes with only the one amp correct? This is the one in the boot. This amp controls all the speakers in the hi-fi upgrade?

[MotorMouth]

Originally Posted by Skuzzy

Why the hot glue for the tweeter?

There is a round cup on the inside of the pillar cover that the tweeter sits in. The stock tweeter snaps into it. The focal is just barely smaller and it isn't designed to use the clips. A little dab of low temp hot glue on a couple sides between the tweeter and wall of the cup works great. it'll also be easy to take off later if need be.

Originally Posted by DyeLooper

Motormouth,
So you had the Hi-Fi Upgrade. There were no crossovers on the stock speakers correct? The hi-fi upgrade, that comes with only the one amp correct? This is the one in the boot. This amp controls all the speakers in the hi-fi upgrade?

The tweeter in the pillar has a cap on the speaker wire a few inches before the tweeter. I cut the wire between the cap and tweeter so I am using the stock cap with the focal tweeter.

I saw only speaker wire going to the driver and mid-range speakers. I'm pretty sure the crossover for them is built into the amp.
As far as I know the amp in the boot feeds all the speakers in the car.

edit:
woot I just hit 5th gear =)

[DyeLooper]

MotorMouth

Thanks for your input

[mikeythemini]

Yes the amp in the boot feeds all 10 speakers

[DyeLooper]

Originally Posted by mikeythemini

Yes the amp in the boot feeds all 10 speakers

Thanks again

[kookmyers]

Originally Posted by Skuzzy

I have the Focal Polyglass 165 V3 E and 690 CV1's for mine.

I wonder if we could get enough interest and a vendor to get these speakers on a group buy? they look great although not using their crossover is kind of a bummer.

as far as 6x9's are concerned i had a question.
I am a guy that likes his soundstage up front. i like to have only rear fill/midbase from the back. could you cut the leads to the tweeter on the stock 6x9's without negative results? obviously, the highs will be cut out...
i am not sure about the amp and crossover that is happening, but it would be interesting if they (the amp designers) were providing more power to the rears than the fronts. it seems that with this Focal replacement, that switching the leads at the amp would be pretty easy.

[David B]

On the Boost system, if I wanted to do a straight speaker change (without an extra amp) I have the speaker wires feeding the 5.25'' speaker at the bottom of the door and two wires feeding the 3.5'' at the top of the door. If I want to connect crossovers which wires do I use for the inputs to the crossover- the ones to the 5.25'' speaker??

[Skuzzy]

kookmyers, it would be easy enough to install a low-pass filter if you wanted to block highs from the rear speakers. There are inline fitlers available for both line level and amp level feeds.

[OutMotoring]

Originally Posted by kookmyers

I wonder if we could get enough interest and a vendor to get these speakers on a group buy? they look great although not using their crossover is kind of a bummer.

as far as 6x9's are concerned i had a question.
I am a guy that likes his soundstage up front. i like to have only rear fill/midbase from the back. could you cut the leads to the tweeter on the stock 6x9's without negative results? obviously, the highs will be cut out...
i am not sure about the amp and crossover that is happening, but it would be interesting if they (the amp designers) were providing more power to the rears than the fronts. it seems that with this Focal replacement, that switching the leads at the amp would be pretty easy.

not a chance...the car audio industry has put very serious effort into stopping all internet sales....they are following the Home audio industry (all but the entry level stuff)...even onkyo has limited it to 5 online merchants and play hardball with anyone else...

[MotorMouth]

Originally Posted by OutMotoring

not a chance...the car audio industry has put very serious effort into stopping all internet sales....they are following the Home audio industry (all but the entry level stuff)...even onkyo has limited it to 5 online merchants and play hardball with anyone else...

yup, and focal is pretty hardcore about internet sales. i have a feeling most ebay auctions are gray market.

[Robbee]

Aaron, I am in the middle of replacing my back speakers and adding an amp.
You said there was a lead present in the back that you use to switch the amp.
Can you tell me where to find it ? ( what colour ).

Thanks in advance.
Robbee ( the Netherlands )

[OutMotoring]

sorry for the delay as I have been out of town for the last 5 days at the Dragon event...there is a thin black wire that runs up the C pillar..actually 3 of them ..(2 thin and 1 thicker one)...test both to find which one is switched with the ignition....

The thin one will keep the signal going to the amp for a few minutes after closing all of the door...

[kookmyers]

From the UK options PDF:
Includes a total of 10 speakers and a digital 8-channel amplifier (2x40W, 6x25W.) Amplifier located in left side of boot.

From the miniusa site:
four bass speakers (each with an output of 40 watts), two mid-range speakers (25 watts), and 4 treble speakers (25 watts).


There is a contradiction here, in all regards.
The UK info is straight forward and I take this from it:
The rear 6x9's are each 2 way speakers receiving a full range signal from the amp at 40watts each. (4 speakers)
The front 6 speakers are all mono drivers, each receiving 25w. Essentially, the front is getting 75Wx2. i dont know what the amp is doing with the frequencies for each of these front channels. =230W TOTAL

The USA info is as clear as mud (at best).
I can read it 2 ways since they made sure to say EACH about the 40W but not on the other ratings....
1. 4 bass speakers (i assume the 6x9s and the 5.25s in lower door).
4x40 = 160W 2 mid range (middle front door) 25W 4 treble (2 in the 6x9s, 2 in the front pillars) 25W = 210W TOTAL
2. 4x40=160W, 2x25=50W, 4x25=100W =310W TOTAL

I am leaning towards the info that i found in the UK PDF. It makes more sense and is clear. The USA info is all screwed up. I dont know what to think about the 3 different totals.

I'd love to get information direct from the manufacturer of the amplifier and speakers....

[Loony2N]

Don't know which is right, but I read (in the manual?) that the HIFI is 230W.

[MotorMouth]

Took the plunge last night and installed the 6x9s. It wasn't as bad as I had feared. The whole process took 3 hours including 20 minutes to go pick up a dremel from another house (more on that later).

Pull weatherstrip completely off boot area.

Next back kick panel. 3 plugs in front to pull out and I think I remember 4 x-mas tree clips to pop loose.

C pillars next - remove the airbag labeled cover and there is a #20 torx screw hiding in there. Be careful as the airbag is clipped to the c-pillar cover. C-pillar has two xmas tree clips.

Pulled back seat out next. Back seats have a clip in the center - no need to remove the 3 bolts holding the seat anchor - just use a flathead screwdriver to push a metal spring plate to one side and the inside of the seat lifts right up. To the the seat loose from the side lean the seat forward at ~45 degree and and it slide out. The bottom cushion is clipped to the floor at the front outside corners. There is also a clasp at the back center of the seat. It's hard to describe how to get it loose but lift the cushion up to ~45 degrees and push down at the back center of the seat then pull forward while pushing down.

Now my memory gets fuzzy. Steps may not be in order or I may forget something.

Remove alot of push clips (remove center pins first!) from everywhere you see one.

Remove the plastic surrounds around the back seat latches. There are 2 folding style clips on each side of them.

I don't think the back side panels had any screws - just xmas tree clips. Pop 'em loose.

There is a carpeted piece that sits directly under the seat back that comes out.

To remove b-pillars - take off the airbag labeled cover there is a torx screw. B pillar has 1 xmas tree clip. Pop cover off - dangles by seat belt also has a wire for the LED.

Forward side panel has 1 philips screw right under the bottom of where the b-pillar was. I think that big panel had 3 or 4 xmas tree clips. (note - pull weather stripping from door frame in this area before you remove b-pillar and big side pane). Start popping.
Now there are 4 clips running along the top next to the window. You must lift the panel UP to get them loose.

Disconnect tweeter wire from tweeter (on HIFI system) This bummed me that the tweeter wasn't a part of the 6x9 so the 6x9 doesn't have full range music.

Now you have access to the 6x9. the hole for the stock 6x9 wasn't large enough for my focal. grrr!!! make trip to get dremel. Used 1.5 stones grinding it large enough. The red striped wire going to the speaker is the positive lead.


I completely removed the stock tweeter and have just the focal coax 6x9 there now but it still sounds a bit muddy since it isn't a full range signal going to it. It does sound better than before though.

I have an appointment with a pro stereo shop in about 10 days to have an amp installed to power all the new speakers I as it sounds great at up to mid-high volumes but the stock amp gives out at really high volumes (where I sometimes like to rock out).

I'm having a pro shop do it because there is a fat bundle of wires going into the stock amp and I don't feel like sorting them all out. I'm still debating on what amp to get but I'm considering 3 different ones. 1 is a boston acoustics 45w x 4 (will fit under passwenger seat), one is an ARC 50wx4 very high quality but will have to go in the boot, and the last is 110wx4 PPI -more expensive and about 20" long.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone. It's not as hard a job as you would first think.

edit:

ps Thanks to Aaron from outmotoring who kindly gave me some tips over the phone before I started.

[amazonracer]

Are you saying the HI FI 10 speaker upgrade for the R56 is crap. Can I take the stock radio to say best buy/circuit city and they will easily be able to upgrade the system and will be less than the dealer option. I'm not handy enough nor competent in doing this kind of work myself. BTW, when I ordered my MCS last Saturday, I forgot to turn on the radio. Is it that bad. Thanks

[MotorMouth]

Originally Posted by amazonracer

Are you saying the HI FI 10 speaker upgrade for the R56 is crap. Can I take the stock radio to say best buy/circuit city and they will easily be able to upgrade the system and will be less than the dealer option. I'm not handy enough nor competent in doing this kind of work myself. BTW, when I ordered my MCS last Saturday, I forgot to turn on the radio. Is it that bad. Thanks

This isn't the correct thread for debating the merits of the system. There are other threads doing that. Short answer. Go listen and decide for yourself.

[amazonracer]

Sorry Motormouth, didn't no putting a general sound question in a install thread was so inappropriate. I stand corrected.

[jrunner192]

I need some advice on putting the 3.5" speaker shroud back in place on the driver's side. I've gotten everything back together, but the switch for the outside mirror adjustment does not stay in place. I still have a little metal clip left over and I'm pretty sure that it is what holds that switch in place. However, I don't know where it goes.

If anyone could offer their advice on my situation I'd appreciate it.

[MotorMouth]

Originally Posted by jrunner192

I need some advice on putting the 3.5" speaker shroud back in place on the driver's side. I've gotten everything back together, but the switch for the outside mirror adjustment does not stay in place. I still have a little metal clip left over and I'm pretty sure that it is what holds that switch in place. However, I don't know where it goes.

If anyone could offer their advice on my situation I'd appreciate it.

The good news is that you are correct. That clips holds the switch in place. The bad news is that switch is a pain in the butt.

There are at least two of those little clips, maybe three.. look at the other one to get an idea where/how it goes. That switch was the hardest part of replacing any of the speakers.

[jrunner192]

Yup. I yet back out to take a second look at it and saw the little scratch marks that the clips had made on the switch and then realized that I was missing the second clip. After a little searching I was able to find the second clip and pop everything back together.

Now that I know exactly what everything back there looks like I need to figure out what to put in my car. I have a friend that can get me a very good deal on some CDT ES-610 components. The thing is, I have the standard system. So I would probably have to fit the midrange in the 5.25" spot and then take out the 3.5" and put the tweeter in its place.

All of this is assuming I can figure out a good way to run the wires from an amp and the cross-overs into the doors.

Now I just need to find an amp small enough to hide and run the front components. Any suggestions on a place with enough space to place it?

[MotorMouth]

Originally Posted by jrunner192

Yup. I yet back out to take a second look at it and saw the little scratch marks that the clips had made on the switch and then realized that I was missing the second clip. After a little searching I was able to find the second clip and pop everything back together.

Now that I know exactly what everything back there looks like I need to figure out what to put in my car. I have a friend that can get me a very good deal on some CDT ES-610 components. The thing is, I have the standard system. So I would probably have to fit the midrange in the 5.25" spot and then take out the 3.5" and put the tweeter in its place.

All of this is assuming I can figure out a good way to run the wires from an amp and the cross-overs into the doors.

Now I just need to find an amp small enough to hide and run the front components. Any suggestions on a place with enough space to place it?

depending on the size of the amp there is a hole under the passenger seat under the carpet - filled with a square piece of styrofoam. Kinda like the one in the boot where the toolbox goes but not as big.

[jrunner192]

Sounds promising. I'll have to take a look at that. What is the rough dimensions of that spot?

Where is the amp located in the HIFI system? I was thinking that there might be room behind the rear trim panels, but I'm am doubting that there would be enough room to fit a 9" X 12" X 2.25" amp.

Also, has anyone run new speaker wire into the doors, and if so, how did you run them?

Thanks.

[JHRichards]

Good day -- Coming back from the Dragon meet, my little car developed a problem I have traced to the right front door woofer - it rattles when closing the door, and occasionally sparks and sputters and gives a static buzz when the car vibrates a lot (like when passing a big truck) - even when the radio is turned off. I suspect a loose wire or the like...

Can one just pop off the plastic ring around the woofer ... or do I have to remove the entire door panel cover to get in there? Is there anything I should consider or watch for as I try to remove the door cover panel?

Assuming the speaker has gone bad, are there any matters I should consider as I replace it? I am not looking for super hi fi, so I am not asking how to upgrade the system, just looking for tips on how to get the job done without leaving any dead bodies. I am fairly handy and have tools, - is this something I can do - or should I pay some high school kid to fix it...?

Thanks. /// JHR ///
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