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This was a very long day. Removing all the interior was nothing compared to the Dynamat install. Glad it's done! The sound is incredible, and my audio adventure is now complete. Thanks again to everyone for sharing all the experience.
If you are interested in the Dynamat install, click here.
If you want to be nice to people without high speed internet you may want to change the resolution of those pictures. Even with high-speed they took a while to download. They're HUGE.
__________________ Laser Blue/White MCS delivered 3/8/07. Off lease 5/17/09.
Tigger - 2009 JCW delivered 4/27/09, FMIC, boost gauge, Striped and tinted
Alta AccessPORT tune - 267wtq & 219whp
MINI #3 - 2011 White Silver/Black MCS. Delivered 5/11/11. All glass tinted;bobcat pads;OZ Ultra Leggeras;205/50/16 Starspecs
If you want to be nice to people without high speed internet you may want to change the resolution of those pictures. Even with high-speed they took a while to download. They're HUGE.
Sorry I thought the site automatically resized them.
I have tried to read through this thread, but I just do not understand all of this... ohms? crossovers? etc... I thought I knew something until I read this... you people know your stuff!
I have the basic 6 speaker system wih no hi-Fi etc...
If I put some higher quality speakers that are the same size will it really make a noticeable difference or do I really need and amp, woofer etc...
It doesn't have to be an orchestra hall, but I do like pretty clear music and I would like to be able to hear it clearly over the engine and when I have the windows/sunroof open...
I have tried to read through this thread, but I just do not understand all of this... ohms? crossovers? etc... I thought I knew something until I read this... you people know your stuff!
I have the basic 6 speaker system wih no hi-Fi etc...
If I put some higher quality speakers that are the same size will it really make a noticeable difference or do I really need and amp, woofer etc...
It doesn't have to be an orchestra hall, but I do like pretty clear music and I would like to be able to hear it clearly over the engine and when I have the windows/sunroof open...
I'm sure you are not dumb.
You can replace your crappy stock speakers with efficient 4 ohm OEM speakers with no need for an additional amp. The MINI interior is small and doesn't need an 800W amp to play music as loud comfort level will let you. The stock head unit does just fine with the right speakers. If you like the deep bass, a small powered sub will provide all you need.
There are issues with the way MINI implemented the system, so you may want to consider swapping cables - you can read all about it here.
Replacing the fronts are relatively easy, the rears take a lot of work but it's so well documented that you'll know exactly what to do. I'm no electrical engineer, but I did it all without issue using the instructions provided here.
Is this something that I should do through the dealership so as not to void the warranty?
To be honest, I'm a little worried about taking out the backseat. The front doesn't seem to difficult if it's just a matter of removing the door panel and switching out speakers. I get nervous when it comes to going much deeper than that.
Also, any suggestions as to which brand speakers might be best compatible without extra drilling or cutting into the car?
Is this something that I should do through the dealership so as not to void the warranty?
To be honest, I'm a little worried about taking out the backseat. The front doesn't seem to difficult if it's just a matter of removing the door panel and switching out speakers. I get nervous when it comes to going much deeper than that.
Also, any suggestions as to which brand speakers might be best compatible without extra drilling or cutting into the car?
I can't really answer the question about the warranty - obviously your sound system is not covered if you replace the stock speakers. For me - it wasn't even a consideration - I'm not driving around for 3 years listening to that crappy system waiting for a warranty to expire. I want to enjoy my car!
I was just like you, but after encouragement from other NAM members and lots of reading and research, I decided to do it. After completing the fronts, I just kept going until I completed it all. It really is not that bad, you just go slow. And believe me - removing the back seat, once you have done it once, takes 5 minutes flat.
I used Infinity Reference - 6022Si's for the lower door, 3022cf's for the upper door, and 9622i's for the rear. They all fit perfectly, but you will have to drill new holes for the fronts. You will never find a pair of speakers to match the screw holes in the front stock speakers. The rears matched perfectly.
These are all multi driver (coaxial) speakers - some prefer to use single driver speakers (tweeters, Mids and woofers) and generally mount the tweeters in the upper door, mids in the lower door and woofers in the rears. This is a little more complicated due to the requirement for crossovers. I can't really speak to this option, but make sure if you go this way that the imepence is 4 ohms.
Based on recommendations for NAM members, I use an 8" SSL Soundstorm USS8 powered sub. It gives what these members describe as that "thumpa thumpa". The Boss Bass600 is the exact same sub sold under a different name. This part is disputed by some - but I run it off the rear 12v power adapter without issue based on some testing by a fellow NAM member.
I used Infinity Reference - 6022Si's for the lower door, 3022cf's for the upper door, and 9622i's for the rear. They all fit perfectly, but you will have to drill new holes for the fronts. You will never find a pair of speakers to match the screw holes in the front stock speakers. The rears matched perfectly.
I wonder if anyone makes adapter plates to keep from drilling new holes in the car.
The reasoning for drilling the holes is that the speaker leads for the lower spot on the front doors are on the outside of the speaker vs. the rear of the speaker like every other replacement speaker.
__________________
Rictus: 2008 MC SS/B Auto | Premium, Cold, & Sport Packages | Black Bonnets | JCW Grill & Trim | 17" Konig Feathers | Rear Fog Light | MFSW | 20% Tint | Red Calipers |
Blacked Out: Head & Taillight Rings | Side Scuttles | Door Handles | Emblems | Boot Handle | Wheel Arch Reflectors | Beltline | Joey-Mod | Tailpipe
The reasoning for drilling the holes is that the speaker leads for the lower spot on the front doors are on the outside of the speaker vs. the rear of the speaker like every other replacement speaker.
No, you can run the wire through the rubber plug that is right next to the speaker. Just pop it out, make a small incision, run the wire through, and pop it in. Also, some aftermarket speakers have bolt patterns that will work. Mine didn't so I drilled the speaker, not the door. The speakers are mounted using the stock bolts and holes. I think that's a much better way to go.
No, you can run the wire through the rubber plug that is right next to the speaker. Just pop it out, make a small incision, run the wire through, and pop it in. Also, some aftermarket speakers have bolt patterns that will work. Mine didn't so I drilled the speaker, not the door. The speakers are mounted using the stock bolts and holes. I think that's a much better way to go.
Agreed - I did the same thing. Works like a champ!
Ok so I have the HiFi and I think this weekend I'll be swapping the front and rear speakers and adding a Boss Bass1200 unit... I have a few last minute questions for the experts (that's you) to answer please.
1) When I replace the 6x9 in the rear with the Infinity 692.9i (comes with built in tweeter and built in crossover) I assume I should disconnect the OEM tweeter in the rear and just leave the wires tucked in somewhere - I should only need to swap the speaker wire from the OEM 6x9 to the new 6x9 built in crossover (only connection for the speaker - it seperates from there to the woofer and tweeter)
2) I am replacing the 3.5" spot with the 4" Infinity Kappa 42.7i speakers - these speakers have a tweeter built in but I have tweeters in the A-pillars...the new 4" speakers have two sets of speaker leads...one for the midrange and one for its tweeter - I was assuming that I should only connect the midrange pair of leads and leave the tweeter no connected since I'm replacing the OEM tweeters in the A-pillars as well.
I'm just looking for confirmation (or opinions) that this is what is recommended.
Thanks again for all the help!
__________________
Rictus: 2008 MC SS/B Auto | Premium, Cold, & Sport Packages | Black Bonnets | JCW Grill & Trim | 17" Konig Feathers | Rear Fog Light | MFSW | 20% Tint | Red Calipers |
Blacked Out: Head & Taillight Rings | Side Scuttles | Door Handles | Emblems | Boot Handle | Wheel Arch Reflectors | Beltline | Joey-Mod | Tailpipe
Ok so I have the HiFi and I think this weekend I'll be swapping the front and rear speakers and adding a Boss Bass1200 unit... I have a few last minute questions for the experts (that's you) to answer please.
1) When I replace the 6x9 in the rear with the Infinity 692.9i (comes with built in tweeter and built in crossover) I assume I should disconnect the OEM tweeter in the rear and just leave the wires tucked in somewhere - I should only need to swap the speaker wire from the OEM 6x9 to the new 6x9 built in crossover (only connection for the speaker - it seperates from there to the woofer and tweeter)
2) I am replacing the 3.5" spot with the 4" Infinity Kappa 42.7i speakers - these speakers have a tweeter built in but I have tweeters in the A-pillars...the new 4" speakers have two sets of speaker leads...one for the midrange and one for its tweeter - I was assuming that I should only connect the midrange pair of leads and leave the tweeter no connected since I'm replacing the OEM tweeters in the A-pillars as well.
I'm just looking for confirmation (or opinions) that this is what is recommended.
Thanks again for all the help!
Don't forget them pictures and good luck! (Can't help much on the questions since I'm not a HiFi owner.)
I would disconnect the 4" speaker . It's a horrible place to put a speaker and it will only hurt your image(with the audiophile crowd ) I dont cvare what brand speaker you put there it's not going to help.
If you must then you need to disconnect the tweeter.
Has any one checked the ohm load of the factory hifi system speakers?
You might want the check what the ohm load is when the tweeter is disconnected(on the 4")
The factory speaker is in a poor location, they just put it where it looks the best not functions the best.
Just because Mini put a speaker there does not mean you need to as well.
One day car manufactures will actually do some reaseach on the acoustics of their vehicles.
Well I guess if they did that then they would actually sell an audio system with the car thats worth a crap.
Tweeter in the a-pillar and woofer in the door , thats all you need. Rear speakers are a joke as well.
The further away the speaker is from you the better.
The factory speaker is in a poor location, they just put it where it looks the best not functions the best.
Just because Mini put a speaker there does not mean you need to as well.
One day car manufactures will actually do some reaseach on the acoustics of their vehicles.
Well I guess if they did that then they would actually sell an audio system with the car thats worth a crap.
Tweeter in the a-pillar and woofer in the door , thats all you need. Rear speakers are a joke as well.
If took all the money you spent on 4" 6X9's and components and just bought one really nice set of 6" components it would sound better IMHO.
I used Infinity Reference - 6022Si's for the lower door, 3022cf's for the upper door, and 9622i's for the rear. They all fit perfectly, but you will have to drill new holes for the fronts. You will never find a pair of speakers to match the screw holes in the front stock speakers. The rears matched perfectly.
Crutchfield is having a nice sale on infinity speakers and I want to go with your setup. After calling a specialist at crutchfield, however, I'm a little confused -- he is saying that the 6022Si's will be a tight fit (1/10 of an inch extra width) and that the 3022cf's probably won't fit at all unless I cut the door panel a bit. Did you do any of this or was it a relatively clean install? Crutchfield is recommending buying a component and putting the tweeters in the spot for the 3.5" speakers. Thanks for all of the help so far! This thread is awesome!
Crutchfield is having a nice sale on infinity speakers and I want to go with your setup. After calling a specialist at crutchfield, however, I'm a little confused -- he is saying that the 6022Si's will be a tight fit (1/10 of an inch extra width) and that the 3022cf's probably won't fit at all unless I cut the door panel a bit. Did you do any of this or was it a relatively clean install? Crutchfield is recommending buying a component and putting the tweeters in the spot for the 3.5" speakers. Thanks for all of the help so far! This thread is awesome!
They fit just fine - all I had to do is drill new holes in the plastic mounts. Both fit like a glove.
Many others have gone the component route. Do you have the HiFi or standard setup? The key is matching the correct impedence.
They fit just fine - all I had to do is drill new holes in the plastic mounts. Both fit like a glove.
Many others have gone the component route. Do you have the HiFi or standard setup? The key is matching the correct impedence.
I have the standard, non-HiFi setup. I saw some of the photos in your gallery and was impressed with the job that you did. Do you have any photos of everything when it was completed (I did not see any photos of your sub or the doors with the panel put back on -- does this just look the same)? I read through all of the posts for this thread today and will probably take your exact route (I plan to use the same speakers you did as well as go through the same process in terms of getting my feet wet). I was just a little concerned after speaking to the Crutchfield rep since he said that the only thing I would be able to replace is the 6.5's -- he recommended that instead I go the component route and put tweeters in the 3.5's! I am also considering the focals.
EDIT: I just realized that the posters who used the focals were doing so on a HiFi system.
Then put the tweeter in the A pillar and woofer down in the door , forget about the 3.5" as it will end up hurting your sound(that extra money would be better put into some higher end focals ).
Yes leave the 3.5" disconnected. It is in a terrible location for a speaker and if you just spend the extra money on better 6.5" components the sound will be much better.
best $20 bucks you can spend for sound improvement.
I do not have my mini just yet ,
I have
Focal Be 6.5" kit no 6(these speakers will change your life )
Steg k402
Steg K203
Sub undecided but probaly a Focal Be 8"
Rear speakers =None
These items will go into my Mini when the 2010 models come out.
There will be pictures and I am going for a stealthy install
I have the standard, non-HiFi setup. I saw some of the photos in your gallery and was impressed with the job that you did. Do you have any photos of everything when it was completed (I did not see any photos of your sub or the doors with the panel put back on -- does this just look the same)? I read through all of the posts for this thread today and will probably take your exact route (I plan to use the same speakers you did as well as go through the same process in terms of getting my feet wet). I was just a little concerned after speaking to the Crutchfield rep since he said that the only thing I would be able to replace is the 6.5's -- he recommended that instead I go the component route and put tweeters in the 3.5's! I am also considering the focals.
EDIT: I just realized that the posters who used the focals were doing so on a HiFi system.
You need to ensure that you select 4 ohm speakers. I think most of the Focals are 2 ohm. The infinity reference series will work just fine. As far as the component setup - I'd recommend buying the A pillar kit with a tweeter mount so you can mount the tweeters up high. The reference setup I used basically puts three sets of tweeters in, but they are adjustable and directional so I boost the 3.5's and point them up and flatten the others. The sub really fills in the deep lows and adds just the right thump.
Whatever you decide, I would highly recommend two things: swapping the front and rear speaker wires at the X9331 connector AFTER installing the rears and buying the Dynamat speaker kit for the rears. There is a lot of bare metal and a good sized cavity there.
I am tickled to death with my install but there are some who think that only the component setup is the right choice. It's just like anything else - it's an individual thing - if it sounds good to you, then you made the right choice.
There are more pics in my gallery. The only difference in looks after your done is that you can see your new drivers through the grill covers so color could be an issue. I think the reference drivers look great. I can take more pics if you like.
Bottom line - almost anything aftermarket will sound better than the crappy drivers you have now, and now is the best they will ever sound.
PS - if you go with the Focals, beware of ebay. I have heard multiple reports of cheap chinese knockoffs being sold as genuine Focals. They cost way to much to be buying a knockoff - so get them from a dealer. see here.
I know everyone has a preference , I will say this if you have more than 1 set of tweeters in your car you have destroyed your image and soundstage unless you are an expert at tuning cars.
I know this is not important to most people as most just want some sound .
Some people claim to be audiophiles at home but not in the car and this is something that puzzles me. I would ask those people how much music they listen to at home vs in the car I bet the car wins 9 out of 10 times. So why would you not invest a little bit more money and get a similiar sound in the car?
Does your Mini deserve the best ?
I know everyone has a preference , I will say this if you have more than 1 set of tweeters in your car you have destroyed your image and soundstage unless you are an expert at tuning cars.
I know this is not important to most people as most just want some sound .
Some people claim to be audiophiles at home but not in the car and this is something that puzzles me. I would ask those people how much music they listen to at home vs in the car I bet the car wins 9 out of 10 times. So why would you not invest a little bit more money and get a similiar sound in the car?
Does your Mini deserve the best ?
Hey, to each his own. I'm not gonna get into audiophile smack talk, I'm more than happy with what I've done and I think my MINI has the best. I am merely sharing what I did (as I was ASKED to do) and my opinion of the result. My MINI sounds better than yours does right now...Get a MINI and set it up the way YOU want it.
Laser Blue/White MCS delivered 3/8/07. Off lease 5/17/09.
) I dont cvare what brand speaker you put there it's not going to help.
)
