R56 speaker replacement how-to

[MotorMouth]

Originally Posted by euells

Can you post links to the exact FOCAL speakers you purchased?

Thanks in advance!

6x9's : http://cgi.ebay.com/Focal-Polyglass-...3A1%7C294%3A50

fronts:
Focal Polyglass 165 V3 E is the exact model i have but i didn't find a link on ebay.

[jb1520]

i have a 2009 mcs non hi-fi system.. ive been reading all of the post on how to replace the speakers. i plan to do that, but i also want to replace the stock amp. will the harness for newministuff.com work or not thanks

[aafflyer]

Originally Posted by jb1520

i have a 2009 mcs non hi-fi system.. ive been reading all of the post on how to replace the speakers. i plan to do that, but i also want to replace the stock amp. will the harness for newministuff.com work or not thanks

If you have the non hi-fi, there is no amp. The speakers are powered off of the head unit only.

I have a 2009 MCS non hi-fi and have replaced all of my speakers. I went with Polk MM6501 components in the doors and Polk MMC690 speakers in the rear. I'm very happy with the sound quality, and get all the volume I want out of the head unit (i.e. with no amp).

So my suggestion to you would replace the speakers first and see what you think of the resultant sound before adding an amp.

And if you do add an amp, you really don't need any harnesses. The head unit does not have any line out jacks, so you might as well pick up the speaker level signals at the X9331 connector in the driver footwell -- this way you don't have to take apart the dash to get to the back of the head unit.

[toolazyforalogin]

Good suggestion. Now for those who are undecided on changing the front to rear at the X9331 connector why not attach the left rears to the front rears and the right rears to the right fronts and get full bass to all 4 speakers? (for Hi-Fi system)

The only drawbacks I would assume would be lack of a fader option...also you might not drive all 4 speakers off of the two "front" inputs but with the factory amp it still might sound better giving all 4 speakers 50% instead of 2 speakers 100%

FWIU, if you did this with 4 ohm replacement speakers they'd be wired in parallel creating 2 ohms which is perfect for OEM amp.

[jb1520]

Originally Posted by aafflyer

If you have the non hi-fi, there is no amp. The speakers are powered off of the head unit only.

I have a 2009 MCS non hi-fi and have replaced all of my speakers. I went with Polk MM6501 components in the doors and Polk MMC690 speakers in the rear. I'm very happy with the sound quality, and get all the volume I want out of the head unit (i.e. with no amp).

So my suggestion to you would replace the speakers first and see what you think of the resultant sound before adding an amp.

And if you do add an amp, you really don't need any harnesses. The head unit does not have any line out jacks, so you might as well pick up the speaker level signals at the X9331 connector in the driver footwell -- this way you don't have to take apart the dash to get to the back of the head unit.

did you use the crossovers that came with the speakers? also would i find the amp on/off wire in the x9331 plug.
thanks
josh

[aafflyer]

Originally Posted by jb1520

did you use the crossovers that came with the speakers? also would i find the amp on/off wire in the x9331 plug.
thanks
josh

Yes, I used the crossovers that came with the speakers. The MM6501 component speakers crossovers fits inside the front door armrests (you have to remove the covers from the crossovers), and the MMC690 speaker crossovers are stuck inside the speaker cavity to the backside of the sheet metal using heavy duty double stick velcro fasteners.

I read somewhere else (you would have to search) that there is already a remote on amp signal somewhere in the back area of the vehicle, but I cannot vouch for this.

[Doc Cooper]

did you do the install ur self Charlie?

I have an amp i could use (JL 300.4)
Why not run rear front channels to all speakers by tapping into x9330 ffront channel to aftermarket amp, then it goes back to the speakers.. i guess it is the wiring that a PITA. I figure BT phone sound will be better since it is coming from all front and rear. Just my thought. ONly thing you lose is the fade but you can control that from the amp.... once you fine-tune the level, you wouldnt change it after...

Any thoughts to some sound deadning materials around the door?

[jb1520]

i read that the remote wire was in the back also, but that was some time ago. i will look, thanks again
josh

[FrankiePR]

Has anyone considered something like this?

http://www.crutchfield.com/g_302950/Factory-System-Enhancers.html

Apparently you connect the speaker wires here (to the system enhancer) and from here to the amps and then to the speakers and this little thing will bypass the crossover or frequencies (not sure about the technicalities) the radio, receiver or main unit is sending. In other words more bass to the speakers which seems to be one of the mayor problems here.

I have seen many threads here regarding the audio situation in the MINI. It is still somewhat confusing to me. So I'm going to try and sum up to see if I understand it correctly, and some let me know if my conclusions are wrong or right .

You have two options from factory that multiply in to 4 options with minor modifications or mayor aftermarket investment.

A. Base Stereo
1.New speakers and the channel swap - Sounds Fine
2.New Speakers and amps, basically everything new. (simpler to do this with base than with Hi-Fi)

B."Hi-Fi" (yes the quotes are intentional)
1.New Speakers (not sure about the channel swap) Sounds fine
2.New Speakers and amps, basically everything new, a lot more complicated would probably require rewiring from the amp to the speakers.

Are these conclusions, summary true? If this is the case what is the best option? I have to be honest that 3 way focal component is very appealing. I assume that a four channel amp 2 channels to the 3 way crossover and 2 channels to 6x9 (at this point a good 3way 6x9 should replace the factory 6x9 and tweeter, if the tweeter is hidden by(or with) the factory 6x9 it won’t be missed)

Also that “Factory System Enhancer” that I mentioned before will not be needed if the signaling or “crossovering” (made a new word) is done by the amp as opposed to the main unit, receiver, radio.

[eurotrash01]

Certainly sounds like you've got it right.

Sound is a slippery slope though. You have this very imperfect listening environment (the MINI - all flavors) and all sorts of meds. Speakers, amps, swaps, sound dampening (expensive & a lot of work - but worth it, so it seems)...all to still have something that isn't quite perfect. A passenger's knee can block a lot of front right treble if you don't have pillar tweeters.

You just have to decide for yourself when to say "No Mas."

The mandatory step is stock speaker replacement with just about any decent ones that you know will fit and have the proper (Ohm) resistance and efficiency. The rest is a function of your own personality and pickiness.

[toolazyforalogin]

+1 to eurotrash.

I'm definitely replacing my stock speakers when the weather gets warm. Focals are too much $ - seems others are using:

JL Audio Evolution TR650-CXi + TR400-CXis

or

Polk DB651s

or

Infiniti Kappa 6.5"

I have the Hi-Fi so I figure just swapping the 4" and 6.5" will be first option...leaving stock tweeters and 6x9's.

there are a bunch of infinity kappa 6.5's...I guess I gotta figure out which would be best...they're all pretty similar in price.

[FrankiePR]

Someone told me the A pillar with the tweeter slot is available for sale, is this true? Because if I'm going to buy the Hi-Fi just for that, basically, I rather just get the basic audio and then when I'm ready to do a mayor sounds overhaul get the A pillar.

I see you did something, what you do channel swap and speaker upgrade? how does it sound?

Anyway I don’t even have the car, haven't even ordered yet and I'm already looking into audio upgrades lol... Plus now I don't know what I'm going to do I just called my dealer and the JCW Hardtop starts (basically the one they have in stock is very option/package less) at $41,600.00 I knew it was going to be more expensive here in PR, but not $13,000.00 more... Still have to wait for a friend of mine (that is on his honeymoon) that told me he knew someone there (dealer), maybe he can get me some deals...

[basil49]

Originally Posted by toolazyforalogin

Focals are too much $ - seems others are using:
JL Audio Evolution TR650-CXi + TR400-CXis or Polk DB651s or Infiniti Kappa 6.5"

I have the Hi-Fi so I figure just swapping the 4" and 6.5" will be first option...leaving stock tweeters and 6x9's.

VERY happy here with the JLs -- and your "first option" is EXACTLY the right way to phrase it; you'll do the fronts, enjoy the improvement ... aaaaaand in no time, you won't be able to help yourself and you'll be shopping for rears ...

[toolazyforalogin]

thanks basil. now those JL's are 4 ohms each. Can someone verify that based on the way the car is wired by directly replacing the front speakers (in parallel I think) they should be seen as 2 ohm from the amp.

I am also leaning towards the JL's b/c they are recommended for lower wattage settings which the OEM amp should put out. If the OEM amp is putting out 25w per channel having 90w RMS speakers (Infinity's) are not going to be beneficial.

Actually when I look at what I typed above instead of the JL Audio Evolution TR650-CXi I'm thinking of the TR650-CSi

Since I have tweeters on A-pillar and the TR400-CXi have a tweeter the 6.5" probably shouldn't have another tweeter.

[splicer13]

Originally Posted by FrankiePR

Has anyone considered something like this?

http://www.crutchfield.com/g_302950/Factory-System-Enhancers.html

Yes, I have the Alpine PXE-H650. It does what it is supposed to, which is to automatically level the frequency response and do time alignment to center the soundstage. Also to undo any processing done by the headunit, which in the mini is nonexistant except for the rear bass cut.

The channel swap is IMO overrated. It's a good idea if you think the mini's biggest failing is not enough bass. Not so great when your bluetooth audio coming from the rear, and park assist from the front. Also not so great if you are looking for cleaner, more accurate sound.

[FrankiePR]

Hey splicer vouk you pm me with More details of your set up ? Would you recomend geting base sound and adding the pillar with the tweeter holes?

[toolazyforalogin]

Originally Posted by basil49

YMMV, but on MY 2007 R56 non-hifi, my color-codes are:
Left front lower: black/redstripe +, black/violetstripe -
Left front upper: blue/whitestripe +, blue/brownstripe -
Right front lower: yellow/brownstripe +, yellow/blackstripe -
Right front upper: blue/blackstripe +, blue/brownstripe -
(update: these color-codes now known to be good for 2009 R56 non-hifi also -- which makes me think that 2008 R56s will be the same.)

Do we know if these colors apply to the Hi-Fi system as well?

[splicer13]

Originally Posted by FrankiePR

Hey splicer vouk you pm me with More details of your set up ? Would you recomend geting base sound and adding the pillar with the tweeter holes?

It really depends on what your goals are.
If you just want more bass, you are best served getting an extra subwoofer like the Boss BASS-600.

If you want a great all-around system and are willing to spend, the HiFi setup isn't going to get you any closer to your goals. HiFi + a sub would be a good solution for people who want pretty good sound with good bass, and don't want to mess around too much.

If you want a great system, you need to replace the speakers, and possibly add a subwoofer, as well as amplifiers and some sort of processing or equalization. Pillars are a good place to put tweeters and newministuff.com has some kits that can make that easier.
http://www.newministuff.com/new/shop...roducts&cat=25

[venious]

I replaced my lower-front speakers with Infinity 6022si (set at +3), and I yanked the upper 4" speakers. These 6.5 speakers are the perfect match for the non-HiFi head unit power, and I have no desire to fill the 4" spot. However, for now I have the rear speakers faded out completely. I'll be replacing them with Infinity 6822cf 6x8 speakers, if they'll fit properly in the 6x9 spot. After you replace the front, you'll definitely get the itch to replace the rear speakers no matter what pain is involved.

[toolazyforalogin]

Why did you choose the Infinity's? And how come the 6022's. I was thinking of Infinity b/c they are 2 ohm but there are way too many different ones listed on their website(which is why I was leaning for the JL's)......Kappas vs. Reference etc...plus many of the ones I looked at on their site are recommended for high power ~75 or 90 watts a piece....

The only thing I've narrowed down so far is I personally want component (not coaxial) b/c I have the Hi-Fi with the tweeters on the A-pillars.

[FrankiePR]

Originally Posted by toolazyforalogin

Why did you choose the Infinity's? And how come the 6022's. I was thinking of Infinity b/c they are 2 ohm but there are way too many different ones listed on their website(which is why I was leaning for the JL's)......Kappas vs. Reference etc...plus many of the ones I looked at on their site are recommended for high power ~75 or 90 watts a piece....

The only thing I've narrowed down so far is I personally want component (not coaxial) b/c I have the Hi-Fi with the tweeters on the A-pillars.

If you are going to just replace the speakers you could get a component and have the bass (lower opening) and the tweeter in the pillar and in the 4" opening any speaker with the right ohm. There will be frecuencies unsued by the speaker but who cares.

Of course the focals listed here are even better 3 way components perfect for that application, although it would be a waste if you don't add power. IMO the easiest way to add power, and eliminating the head units limitations (bass cutoff) is to add a system enhancer.

I don't have a MINI yet so all of this is based on my reads from this forum.

If you havent read about the system enhancer here is a quick summary. You take the speaker cables (could probably be from the connector on passenger side) and hook it up to the enhancer. It then levels all signals and sends a clean signal to new amps. Some send out low voltage for a clean signal to amps, there is even an alpine model that has a mic that auto levels audio, delays and such. I think this is going to be the way I'll go, if I decide to add amps...

[venious]

Originally Posted by toolazyforalogin

Why did you choose the Infinity's? And how come the 6022's.

1. Clarity.
2. Good power match with the stock non-HiFi head unit, and no aftermarket amplifier.
3. Assured fit, per Crutchfield. I don't like surprises.
4. Simplicity. Components are designed for higher power, and I didn't want the surprises involved in mounting the component tweeter in the stock 4" spot nor did I want to alter the stock look. I also didn't want to cram a 4" wide Infinity crossover in some cranny, then have to go back in to eliminate any extra resonance added by vibrating cables and plastic.

[toolazyforalogin]

Thanks for the info. I am considering those as well in addition to the Kappa 62.9l - Any reason you chose the 6022's over the 62.9l's? I do see the 62.9l's want more power so it seems the sensible choice considering you (and I also) replaced without adding another amp.

How much did you end up picking them up for?

[FrankiePR]

Hey splicer I have read about complaints that the RCA Level outputs don't have any preamp power (or what ever its called) and this leads to distortion at higher levels.... any problems with this? (Alpine PXE-H650)

Didn't even notice I hit 2nd gear at some point.... now if only I were hitting second gear in the actuall car!!! :(

[splicer13]

Originally Posted by FrankiePR

Hey splicer I have read about complaints that the RCA Level outputs don't have any preamp power (or what ever its called) and this leads to distortion at higher levels.... any problems with this? (Alpine PXE-H650)

I had a problem where I thought the unit was not sending output at all. I even returned one unit before I realized the output level was adjustable via remote, defaulted to zero, and my remote was broken. The manual is terrible but the unit works like it should -- now that I figured it out. The levels are fine. Maybe other people ran into the same issue I did, and could not figure out how to get the levels turned up.

If you are not good with electronics I would definitely get it set up by an authorized alpine installer, one who has done it before, because it has a lot of quirks and stuff that's not explained in the manual. I paid a guy to install mine, which I don't regret because he did a great job getting all the wires hooked up and spliced, but in the end he couldn't figure out the unit, and I had to debug all the problems myself.