Navigation & Audio Quick Poll: Who's had Harman Kardon amp failure?
#77
09-04-2013, 09:40 AM
#79
09-04-2013, 11:24 PM
I learned a lot and I hand built a really awesome sounding home stereo with learning a lot at diyAudio.com. They have a car audio forum too if anyone wants to check it out.
Anyway, if I'm understanding everyone here on the MINI forum, there's a couple things to be aware of.
1. Your replacement amplifier needs to be 2ohm stable. If its not, then some folks are running the door woof and tweet in series, because this effectively turns it into a 4ohm load. However take note, ohms and watts laws indicate that you'll now sending tge speakers half as much power too. It will still work, but of your replacement amp doesn't have twice the power to drive it, quality will suffer. A couple posts above is a great example of the guy with the big red Sony amp getting good results with changing the wiring. Note his amp IS two ohm stable, otherwise he would have fried his amp.
2. Yes, you'll need a crossover. Minis speakers do not have crossovers, because they were located in the HK amp. At minimum you'll need to put a capicitor on the tweeter. If the tweeter sees the full spectrum of music (including all the bass tones) it will not be able to play them, will not sound good, and will overhead and blow the tweeter.
The advantage of a real crossover is that you get more control over the slope of the frequency roll-off. The crossover should be matched with the capabilities of the speaker, and the speakers matched with each other to achiev a relatively flat spl across a frequency range. (sorry... I feel myself going on and on here). You might know that it is one octave from A to A on a piano. A 440hz is a common tuning frequency, because "most" insturments can play A 440hz. Double or half the frequency to get to the next octave, so going up the scale towards treble is A at 880hz, or the octave below it is A 220hz. A crossover will decrease the power going to a speaker when it gets near its crossover point at a particular rate, like -3dB/octave, or maybe -18dB per octave.
A very common crossover (Linkwitz Riley design) will roll off at 6dB per octave. So let's say for example that the frequency for the crossover is 2200hz, and the music is playing at a volume (spl) of 89dB. That would mean that a frequency of 1100hz will be heard through that speaker at 83dB, 550hz will play at 77dB, 225hz at 71dB, 112hz at 65dB etc. -The hope is that the next speaker larger would be capable of reaching up to 1500 or 2000hz to play clear and loud at 88 or 89dB, then the system of the speakers will sound nice together.
Enough from me....
#80
09-04-2013, 11:33 PM
I haven't had to replace the HK in my MINI yet, but I think I understand the issues.
I learned a lot and I hand built a really awesome sounding home stereo with learning a lot at diyAudio.com. They have a car audio forum too if anyone wants to check it out.
Anyway, if I'm understanding everyone here on the MINI forum, there's a couple things to be aware of.
1. Your replacement amplifier needs to be 2ohm stable. If its not, then some folks are running the door woof and tweet in series, because this effectively turns it into a 4ohm load. However take note, ohms and watts laws indicate that you'll now sending tge speakers half as much power too. It will still work, but of your replacement amp doesn't have twice the power to drive it, quality will suffer. A couple posts above is a great example of the guy with the big red Sony amp getting good results with changing the wiring. Note his amp IS two ohm stable, otherwise he would have fried his amp.
2. Yes, you'll need a crossover. Minis speakers do not have crossovers, because they were located in the HK amp. At minimum you'll need to put a capicitor on the tweeter. If the tweeter sees the full spectrum of music (including all the bass tones) it will not be able to play them, will not sound good, and will overhead and blow the tweeter.
The advantage of a real crossover is that you get more control over the slope of the frequency roll-off. The crossover should be matched with the capabilities of the speaker, and the speakers matched with each other to achiev a relatively flat spl across a frequency range. (sorry... I feel myself going on and on here). You might know that it is one octave from A to A on a piano. A 440hz is a common tuning frequency, because "most" insturments can play A 440hz. Double or half the frequency to get to the next octave, so going up the scale towards treble is A at 880hz, or the octave below it is A 220hz. A crossover will decrease the power going to a speaker when it gets near its crossover point at a particular rate, like -3dB/octave, or maybe -18dB per octave.
A very common crossover (Linkwitz Riley design) will roll off at 6dB per octave. So let's say for example that the frequency for the crossover is 2200hz, and the music is playing at a volume (spl) of 89dB. That would mean that a frequency of 1100hz will be heard through that speaker at 83dB, 550hz will play at 77dB, 225hz at 71dB, 112hz at 65dB etc. -The hope is that the next speaker larger would be capable of reaching up to 1500 or 2000hz to play clear and loud at 88 or 89dB, then the system of the speakers will sound nice together.
Enough from me....
I learned a lot and I hand built a really awesome sounding home stereo with learning a lot at diyAudio.com. They have a car audio forum too if anyone wants to check it out.
Anyway, if I'm understanding everyone here on the MINI forum, there's a couple things to be aware of.
1. Your replacement amplifier needs to be 2ohm stable. If its not, then some folks are running the door woof and tweet in series, because this effectively turns it into a 4ohm load. However take note, ohms and watts laws indicate that you'll now sending tge speakers half as much power too. It will still work, but of your replacement amp doesn't have twice the power to drive it, quality will suffer. A couple posts above is a great example of the guy with the big red Sony amp getting good results with changing the wiring. Note his amp IS two ohm stable, otherwise he would have fried his amp.
2. Yes, you'll need a crossover. Minis speakers do not have crossovers, because they were located in the HK amp. At minimum you'll need to put a capicitor on the tweeter. If the tweeter sees the full spectrum of music (including all the bass tones) it will not be able to play them, will not sound good, and will overhead and blow the tweeter.
The advantage of a real crossover is that you get more control over the slope of the frequency roll-off. The crossover should be matched with the capabilities of the speaker, and the speakers matched with each other to achiev a relatively flat spl across a frequency range. (sorry... I feel myself going on and on here). You might know that it is one octave from A to A on a piano. A 440hz is a common tuning frequency, because "most" insturments can play A 440hz. Double or half the frequency to get to the next octave, so going up the scale towards treble is A at 880hz, or the octave below it is A 220hz. A crossover will decrease the power going to a speaker when it gets near its crossover point at a particular rate, like -3dB/octave, or maybe -18dB per octave.
A very common crossover (Linkwitz Riley design) will roll off at 6dB per octave. So let's say for example that the frequency for the crossover is 2200hz, and the music is playing at a volume (spl) of 89dB. That would mean that a frequency of 1100hz will be heard through that speaker at 83dB, 550hz will play at 77dB, 225hz at 71dB, 112hz at 65dB etc. -The hope is that the next speaker larger would be capable of reaching up to 1500 or 2000hz to play clear and loud at 88 or 89dB, then the system of the speakers will sound nice together.
Enough from me....
Main Channels @ 4 Ω 100 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 3 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 2 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 1.5 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels - Bridged @ 8 Ω 200 W RMS x 2
Main Channels - Bridged @ 4 Ω 150 W RMS x 2
Subwoofer Channel @ 4 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 3 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 2 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 1.5 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Variable front crossover: 50 - 500Hz, selectable slope 12dB/octave
Variable rear crossover: 50 - 500Hz, selectable slope 12dB/octave
Differential-balanced inputs to effectively control noise and will allow you to connect most OEM units straight to the amplifier
Three sets of RCA Jack input, front, rear and subwoofer with a dedicated input sensitivity gain control for the channels
RealSink heat management with rollback protection removes heat from the amplifiers circuitry while the vertical heat
Infrasonic filter: Defeatable 24dB/octave at 30 Hz
Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 30 Hz)
Frequency response: 12 - 28,000Hz
it has a built in built in cross over HP/LP can that be use?
#81
09-05-2013, 03:45 AM
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The reason why the JL Audio XD600/6 makes such a good replacement is because it can handle a 2 Ohm load, has built in crossovers, and has level adjustments. If you use this amp, it runs 6 channels (two tweeters, two mids, two woofers), and the crossover points can be adjusted to taste, as can the sounds levels. Ideal IMHO.
#82
09-05-2013, 09:56 AM
The reason why the JL Audio XD600/6 makes such a good replacement is because it can handle a 2 Ohm load, has built in crossovers, and has level adjustments. If you use this amp, it runs 6 channels (two tweeters, two mids, two woofers), and the crossover points can be adjusted to taste, as can the sounds levels. Ideal IMHO.
@Scoopy, you'll be fine if the crossovers are built in to the amp. Unless someone car share what settings they are using, I'd start with putting the tweeters on the high pass to play everything above 500hz, slowly bring it down to pick up more midrange so long as it doesn't breakup and distort.
I enjoy Crosby Stills and Nash, I have a song I use when setting my home system, after setting the roll off points, then attenuate the volume to each speaker. Smaller speakers are usually more efficient than large ones, and therefore need to be turned down a little to have a good balance with other speakers. In the song "Find the Cost of Freedom" there is an Accapella section (voice only) in which each singer sings a different note, making a chord. I adjust the volume by first turning the mid and tweet down all the way, then turn up the mid slightly until it's a good blend with the woofer, seeming to be equal volume with the woofer, then add in the tweeter in the same fashion -The result is a nice sounding chord that does not seem to be dominated by any one voice -equal volume levels from each speaker.
Have fun, good luck.
#84
09-05-2013, 11:45 AM
Yeah, the 900/5 looks good. It's stable at 2ohm and below, and it has crossovers built in.
As far as running the rear channel on the line designed for the sub... It's better to have too much power than not enough. Most amps are capable of their full power output when the volume control is set at 50% and all tone controls are flat. Lower power amps (or any amp trying to play beyond its limits) will "clip" the top of the sound wave making it a square wave, this causes distortion, heat, and blows speakers.
If the low pass filter on the sub won't allow your rear speakers to play high enough frequencies, and you can not turn off that filter, then you may or may not enjoy the sound of them. Supposedly the human ear has difficulty discerning pitches below 30hz, hence we call those subsonic, because we feel them rather than hear them... That's debatable though, and I'm one to claim good hearing down in that low bass region. If you can run the 6x9's open I think it will produce the best sound -they are a full range speaker. Having them roll off 24dB for everything below 30hz will protect them, but if you listen to jazz and instrumental music you may not need the protection that one who plays a lot of electronic punchy drums would need. It's possible that they only go down to 45 or 50hz before they begin to distort. I think you'll just have to listen and see, unless you can find the specs for the speaker.. I've looked and have not found anything definitive. Alternatively you could replace the rear speakers with something designed more like a subwoofer,.. Maybe even hold that option as a future upgrade
BTW, I've read about others who liked putting the rear on a sub channel, not sure what cross over settings they were using.
Hope that's helpful.
Back to work I go
As far as running the rear channel on the line designed for the sub... It's better to have too much power than not enough. Most amps are capable of their full power output when the volume control is set at 50% and all tone controls are flat. Lower power amps (or any amp trying to play beyond its limits) will "clip" the top of the sound wave making it a square wave, this causes distortion, heat, and blows speakers.
If the low pass filter on the sub won't allow your rear speakers to play high enough frequencies, and you can not turn off that filter, then you may or may not enjoy the sound of them. Supposedly the human ear has difficulty discerning pitches below 30hz, hence we call those subsonic, because we feel them rather than hear them... That's debatable though, and I'm one to claim good hearing down in that low bass region. If you can run the 6x9's open I think it will produce the best sound -they are a full range speaker. Having them roll off 24dB for everything below 30hz will protect them, but if you listen to jazz and instrumental music you may not need the protection that one who plays a lot of electronic punchy drums would need. It's possible that they only go down to 45 or 50hz before they begin to distort. I think you'll just have to listen and see, unless you can find the specs for the speaker.. I've looked and have not found anything definitive. Alternatively you could replace the rear speakers with something designed more like a subwoofer,.. Maybe even hold that option as a future upgrade
BTW, I've read about others who liked putting the rear on a sub channel, not sure what cross over settings they were using.
Hope that's helpful.
Back to work I go
#86
09-05-2013, 08:25 PM
Yeah, the 900/5 looks good. It's stable at 2ohm and below, and it has crossovers built in.
As far as running the rear channel on the line designed for the sub... It's better to have too much power than not enough. Most amps are capable of their full power output when the volume control is set at 50% and all tone controls are flat. Lower power amps (or any amp trying to play beyond its limits) will "clip" the top of the sound wave making it a square wave, this causes distortion, heat, and blows speakers.
If the low pass filter on the sub won't allow your rear speakers to play high enough frequencies, and you can not turn off that filter, then you may or may not enjoy the sound of them. Supposedly the human ear has difficulty discerning pitches below 30hz, hence we call those subsonic, because we feel them rather than hear them... That's debatable though, and I'm one to claim good hearing down in that low bass region. If you can run the 6x9's open I think it will produce the best sound -they are a full range speaker. Having them roll off 24dB for everything below 30hz will protect them, but if you listen to jazz and instrumental music you may not need the protection that one who plays a lot of electronic punchy drums would need. It's possible that they only go down to 45 or 50hz before they begin to distort. I think you'll just have to listen and see, unless you can find the specs for the speaker.. I've looked and have not found anything definitive. Alternatively you could replace the rear speakers with something designed more like a subwoofer,.. Maybe even hold that option as a future upgrade
BTW, I've read about others who liked putting the rear on a sub channel, not sure what cross over settings they were using.
Hope that's helpful.
Back to work I go
As far as running the rear channel on the line designed for the sub... It's better to have too much power than not enough. Most amps are capable of their full power output when the volume control is set at 50% and all tone controls are flat. Lower power amps (or any amp trying to play beyond its limits) will "clip" the top of the sound wave making it a square wave, this causes distortion, heat, and blows speakers.
If the low pass filter on the sub won't allow your rear speakers to play high enough frequencies, and you can not turn off that filter, then you may or may not enjoy the sound of them. Supposedly the human ear has difficulty discerning pitches below 30hz, hence we call those subsonic, because we feel them rather than hear them... That's debatable though, and I'm one to claim good hearing down in that low bass region. If you can run the 6x9's open I think it will produce the best sound -they are a full range speaker. Having them roll off 24dB for everything below 30hz will protect them, but if you listen to jazz and instrumental music you may not need the protection that one who plays a lot of electronic punchy drums would need. It's possible that they only go down to 45 or 50hz before they begin to distort. I think you'll just have to listen and see, unless you can find the specs for the speaker.. I've looked and have not found anything definitive. Alternatively you could replace the rear speakers with something designed more like a subwoofer,.. Maybe even hold that option as a future upgrade
BTW, I've read about others who liked putting the rear on a sub channel, not sure what cross over settings they were using.
Hope that's helpful.
Back to work I go
#88
09-27-2013, 03:51 PM
Dead HK Amp
Just reporting I had my 2003 Cooper short several fuses after installing an Ipod adapter at BestBuy. The day of the install there were several shorts when the cigarette lighter/ 12v plug shorted to the frame.
Leaving the store I noticed the 12v plug didn't power my radar detector returning to the store. Inspecting the car we found the 12v fuse dead which blew again when replacing it since the wire was grounding.
Leaving again I didnt notice till night time the gauges had no back light I could see without covering the lcd display and squinting.
I brought the car back to best buy several time to diagnose, after which we had no results they supported me to remove the ipod hook up and bring the car to a mini mechanic to diagnose.
Before the week before I had them remove the ipod adapter the stereo went out (Classic HK Amp 'Pop'). Then the tach went totally dead.
Best Buy removed the ipod hook up and leaving the store I checked the fuses again as the HK popped my ear off. Inspecting the same fuses, the 8 or 10th fuse down I pulled and it was blown. Replaced it and the gauges and lights returned.
So then I went to the unhelpful incompetent dealer who proceeded to blabber on about two hours needed to remove wires installed for towing that weren't factory. I explained the situation and how the only recent change was the ipod adapter which is the are he should be checking and most importantly testing the amp. The deal (international mini in Milwaukee WI) claimed they could not simple test an amp and needed trace and remove wires that were foreign to the factory wiring first....
So after this (explicit) was sifted Mini returned with "the amp is dead". (Oh really?) was my reply.
He claimed there is no traceable evidence to link BestBuys install of their standard Android ipod hookup to the amp shorting.
So I ask if anyone has any factual information pertaining to this info please post at will. Otherwise i'll be updating everyone on how I burnt down every mini dealership while fixing this amp.
(PS: if anyone has leaking oil/ coolant fluid or concern of a blown head gasket I have some great info on a mini dealer I had service my mini for a blown head gasket which was done then two days later resulted in me paying for a cracked cylinder head that I had to pay)
Leaving the store I noticed the 12v plug didn't power my radar detector returning to the store. Inspecting the car we found the 12v fuse dead which blew again when replacing it since the wire was grounding.
Leaving again I didnt notice till night time the gauges had no back light I could see without covering the lcd display and squinting.
I brought the car back to best buy several time to diagnose, after which we had no results they supported me to remove the ipod hook up and bring the car to a mini mechanic to diagnose.
Before the week before I had them remove the ipod adapter the stereo went out (Classic HK Amp 'Pop'). Then the tach went totally dead.
Best Buy removed the ipod hook up and leaving the store I checked the fuses again as the HK popped my ear off. Inspecting the same fuses, the 8 or 10th fuse down I pulled and it was blown. Replaced it and the gauges and lights returned.
So then I went to the unhelpful incompetent dealer who proceeded to blabber on about two hours needed to remove wires installed for towing that weren't factory. I explained the situation and how the only recent change was the ipod adapter which is the are he should be checking and most importantly testing the amp. The deal (international mini in Milwaukee WI) claimed they could not simple test an amp and needed trace and remove wires that were foreign to the factory wiring first....
So after this (explicit) was sifted Mini returned with "the amp is dead". (Oh really?) was my reply.
He claimed there is no traceable evidence to link BestBuys install of their standard Android ipod hookup to the amp shorting.
So I ask if anyone has any factual information pertaining to this info please post at will. Otherwise i'll be updating everyone on how I burnt down every mini dealership while fixing this amp.
(PS: if anyone has leaking oil/ coolant fluid or concern of a blown head gasket I have some great info on a mini dealer I had service my mini for a blown head gasket which was done then two days later resulted in me paying for a cracked cylinder head that I had to pay)
#89
09-27-2013, 04:39 PM
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Hi,
Sorry to hear about all these electrical problems. It sounds like a nightmare. I'm chiming in only to say that HK Amp failure is very common in the (2002-2006) MINIS. If you have the original amp that came from the Factory, it is only a matter of time before it will indeed go out. I have a 2004 MCS from new. Mine went out last Feb. You can lose the amp at any time. It's more than likely a coincidence that it decided to go out with the iPod adapter install. 'Best Buy' should have checked it all out to see that everything was working properly before returning the MINI to you. It doesn't sound like the Dealer had anything to do with this before your problems developed, (I'm not a Dealer, I'm just calling it like I see it) 'Best Buy' should be responsible. Hopefully you have documentation of all your visits back to 'BB' in the initial discovery of things gone wrong. A new HR amp is $1000. You might find a good used one for about $400, (and then unfortunately take your chances) I'm sorry to hear of your frustrating situation, but realistically, it doesn't take much for the amp to start popping and quit altogether regardless of any other problems. Messing with the system more than likely helped it reach the inevitable. A long ocean voyage from the Mainland to the Hawaiian Islands got mine popping! Good luck. MinisRcheeky
Sorry to hear about all these electrical problems. It sounds like a nightmare. I'm chiming in only to say that HK Amp failure is very common in the (2002-2006) MINIS. If you have the original amp that came from the Factory, it is only a matter of time before it will indeed go out. I have a 2004 MCS from new. Mine went out last Feb. You can lose the amp at any time. It's more than likely a coincidence that it decided to go out with the iPod adapter install. 'Best Buy' should have checked it all out to see that everything was working properly before returning the MINI to you. It doesn't sound like the Dealer had anything to do with this before your problems developed, (I'm not a Dealer, I'm just calling it like I see it) 'Best Buy' should be responsible. Hopefully you have documentation of all your visits back to 'BB' in the initial discovery of things gone wrong. A new HR amp is $1000. You might find a good used one for about $400, (and then unfortunately take your chances) I'm sorry to hear of your frustrating situation, but realistically, it doesn't take much for the amp to start popping and quit altogether regardless of any other problems. Messing with the system more than likely helped it reach the inevitable. A long ocean voyage from the Mainland to the Hawaiian Islands got mine popping! Good luck. MinisRcheeky
#91
10-11-2013, 03:56 AM
#92
11-09-2013, 02:13 PM
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Umm, Tacoman03, based off your signature, it looks like you have a countryman and clubman. If that's the case then you're H/k Set up is different than the gen 1's.
You'll know if you have amp failure because as most everyone here with amp failure, you'll get no sound from the speakers when the radio is on. Sound clarity/quality other than popping and cracking is not a sign of amp failure.
Some people have had great results improving sound clarity by using Dynamat or similar branded products like GT mat from GT Sound.
You'll know if you have amp failure because as most everyone here with amp failure, you'll get no sound from the speakers when the radio is on. Sound clarity/quality other than popping and cracking is not a sign of amp failure.
Some people have had great results improving sound clarity by using Dynamat or similar branded products like GT mat from GT Sound.
#93
11-22-2013, 08:42 AM
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Here is the difference for my setup, I already replaced the HK head unit with a JVC + HK enabler. Now my amp is dying and I'd like to replace it with a JL but does anything change for me since I already replaced the HU?
I don't mind taking out the enabler, so basically it would just be a new head unit + new amp + old wiring and speakers. Is there any reason why this can't work as well as what Paul has done? Should I actually leave the HK enabler IN and keep 'pretending' my JVC head unit is the original HK?
I don't mind taking out the enabler, so basically it would just be a new head unit + new amp + old wiring and speakers. Is there any reason why this can't work as well as what Paul has done? Should I actually leave the HK enabler IN and keep 'pretending' my JVC head unit is the original HK?
#94
12-04-2013, 06:54 PM
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I've been just catching up on this thread after quite a while. Really glad it worked out for you. Still going strong here with the JL as well.
All best,
Paul
All best,
Paul
Just finished installing my new JL Audio XD600/6 amp in the MINI. Huge thanks to Paul Griffin for his information in this thread. Great stuff!
I initially tried to salvage the female plastic plug from the old amp. I thought it might be nice to make a short harness that I could pre-attach to the new amp and then just plug it into the existing harness. No go. Too many small pins and too flimsy of a plug. The heat to remove the solder was enough to melt the plug. Ah, well. In retrospect, I doubt that the pins were long enough to attach wires to anyway.
So I followed Paul's note, extending the woofer A lines and ignoring the woofer B lines. I left the wires I didn't use right in the plugs and just tucked the plugs back behind the panel. I ran a big fat ground to the post right near the amp, and a new positive feed to the battery (easy on the S). To mount the amp, I had to dremmel off the stud used by the stock amp and make a small bracket for the front side. The rear I just drilled and screwed into the body. There is not much room to mount the amp, but at least there is plenty of clearance on the plastic panel.
With the car assembled, I still have access to all the adjustments on the amp, which I am still dialing in. I found Paul's settings to be a bit too bassy for me. I gave the woofers a little higher frequency, and dialed back the input a hair. Still tons more bass than stock.
So far I've driven about 5 miles, and I already love the improvement.
Thanks again, Paul G!
...
I initially tried to salvage the female plastic plug from the old amp. I thought it might be nice to make a short harness that I could pre-attach to the new amp and then just plug it into the existing harness. No go. Too many small pins and too flimsy of a plug. The heat to remove the solder was enough to melt the plug. Ah, well. In retrospect, I doubt that the pins were long enough to attach wires to anyway.
So I followed Paul's note, extending the woofer A lines and ignoring the woofer B lines. I left the wires I didn't use right in the plugs and just tucked the plugs back behind the panel. I ran a big fat ground to the post right near the amp, and a new positive feed to the battery (easy on the S). To mount the amp, I had to dremmel off the stud used by the stock amp and make a small bracket for the front side. The rear I just drilled and screwed into the body. There is not much room to mount the amp, but at least there is plenty of clearance on the plastic panel.
With the car assembled, I still have access to all the adjustments on the amp, which I am still dialing in. I found Paul's settings to be a bit too bassy for me. I gave the woofers a little higher frequency, and dialed back the input a hair. Still tons more bass than stock.
So far I've driven about 5 miles, and I already love the improvement.
Thanks again, Paul G!
...
Last edited by Paul Griffin; 12-11-2013 at 01:47 PM.
#95
12-04-2013, 06:59 PM
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I've been running the JL 600/6 for a year now and there are adjustable crossover adjustment switches at the amp. They're located under removable top cover and you can see what they look like here:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ePElm_yfPT...0/IMG_7027.JPG
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ePElm_yfPT...0/IMG_7027.JPG
Last edited by Paul Griffin; 12-04-2013 at 07:17 PM.
#97
12-08-2013, 05:14 PM
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In the dozen or so cars I've owned over the years, I've never had an audio component fail outright until Harman Kardon. I just couldn't see outlaying the amount of cash Mini was asking for 10 year old tech that could fail again. Fool me once...
#98
12-11-2013, 01:03 PM
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#99
12-11-2013, 01:24 PM
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Here's a pic showing the all the connections on the JL Audio XD600/6 amp.
Output connections from any head unit will need to be changed to RCA, if they're not already.
The power and speakers are a direct connection to the amp.
Output connections from any head unit will need to be changed to RCA, if they're not already.
The power and speakers are a direct connection to the amp.
Last edited by Paul Griffin; 12-11-2013 at 01:54 PM.
#100
12-11-2013, 02:35 PM
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Yeah I figure I have to create RCA connections coming out of the amp, but right now the hu has the harness for my car, not using the preamps even though it's going to the hk amp. If I get a new amp I wonder if I have to rewire the headunit to use the rca preamps or if I can just leave it connected the way it is.
