Navigation & Audio MINI Audio Basics: Specs, Details, and Upgrades
#101
I used the AUX and it was horrible (no bass and songs were muffled). I installed the OEM MINI/BMW I-POD Interface which goes in the hidden compartment and plugs into the I-POD using a 30 pin sync connector (whatever that’s called…lol) just like the docking station and it sounded a little better (not great) but had the convenience of (next) (FF and RW) I-pod control from the steering wheel and complete control of the I-POD from the MINI head unit. After some research I found that I needed to re rip my CDs using the Apple Lossless format and it is night and day difference when using the IA Soundstage and subwoofer. It’s like listening to the CD. I have been slowly re-ripping all my CDs and my MINI sounds firkin awesome …. Ever note is crystal clear; I’ve been told that people hear stuff in songs they have never heard before when in my JCW…..I use the AUX when I’m in my 06 GP just because I don’t want to modify it in any way….Hope this helps
#102
So far it's worked fine for me with my 160gb classic 3/4 full, my old original 80g (which is ten years old or so) would stop at Artist "S" but when i got the new one its fine...... it will get to my Willie Nelson tunes... lol, it's just takes a while to get there... I have Playlists set up for different types of music so that helps
... works inplace of the CD funtions
CD 1 is by song
CD 2 Artist
CD 3 Playlist
CD 4 Podcast.....
CD 5 gender...
CD 6 .....
Can’t remember if it's in that order or not as i just keep it on whatever the one is for Artist and Playlist....
the 160GB classic just stays in the hidden compartment… it will lock up every once in a while and I just unplug it and plug it back in and it’s fine… my MINI sits for weeks or more sometimes without getting driven so maybe that has something to do with it.. Has locked up maybe 3 or 4 times in the 2 years I’ve had it installed.…it saved my *** when I drove 4,000mls total to the Dragon last year in a week… lol , having all that music on a road trip with such easy access was great… it charges too so no worries about cords and cables…. It wasn’t cheap thought but worth every penny.. I may put one in my GP also…. Just using the AUX for now in it
... works inplace of the CD funtions
CD 1 is by song
CD 2 Artist
CD 3 Playlist
CD 4 Podcast.....
CD 5 gender...
CD 6 .....
Can’t remember if it's in that order or not as i just keep it on whatever the one is for Artist and Playlist....
the 160GB classic just stays in the hidden compartment… it will lock up every once in a while and I just unplug it and plug it back in and it’s fine… my MINI sits for weeks or more sometimes without getting driven so maybe that has something to do with it.. Has locked up maybe 3 or 4 times in the 2 years I’ve had it installed.…it saved my *** when I drove 4,000mls total to the Dragon last year in a week… lol , having all that music on a road trip with such easy access was great… it charges too so no worries about cords and cables…. It wasn’t cheap thought but worth every penny.. I may put one in my GP also…. Just using the AUX for now in it
#103
The AUX is purely analog, and has a number of shortcomings - notably a poor quality connector and design. It's also plagued by the various sensor voltages that are applied to the headphone jack on phones/mp3 players/etc. What I don't recall at the moment (someone else help me here) is whether the MINI USB uses it's onboard DAC or the external devices. If you can unplug the 3.5mm jack and still get audio when in USB control then you are getting digital from the external device. This SHOULD be the case, I just can't remember right now. Anyway, this is preferable and is far superior to the analog 3.5mm jack.
Definitely not. Those would do nothing to improve an already flat signal, and using any of the eq features would negate the vehicle-specific crossover design. The best way to think of the IA systems is that they already have this functionality built in! That's the whole point. Granted, it is done at the analog rather than digital level, but given the higher level of measurement and modeling that we do, and the precision with which we can tailor those analog circuits (remember, we design and build our own PCBs), the end result is far superior, with zero room for error.
#105
I recognize this is in the 2nd gen area, but the title "MINI Audio 101: Specs, Details, and Upgrades (START HERE!)" doesn't seem to discriminate against the more senior members of the MINI vehicle base, and post #7 mentions the IA 1101S sub setup for the 1st gen....
I've read through all five pages of this sticky now, and I either read it and totally failed to recognize it, or the answer to my question is still awaiting someone (me?) to ask it. New (to me) R50 with stock sound. I've looked at and bookmarked the Ia sub setup for my car, but I don't see any solution / recommended items to upgrade the rest of the system from stock speakers and head to better speakers (and perhaps an amp for them). Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
I've read through all five pages of this sticky now, and I either read it and totally failed to recognize it, or the answer to my question is still awaiting someone (me?) to ask it. New (to me) R50 with stock sound. I've looked at and bookmarked the Ia sub setup for my car, but I don't see any solution / recommended items to upgrade the rest of the system from stock speakers and head to better speakers (and perhaps an amp for them). Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
#106
heres his secret
Ahh, nothing like a little condescension with lunch .
Nope, not an engineer. Dont think I claimed to be, or even implied it.
again, best of luck selling your kit. Ill go back to dealing with "transducer and systems engineers" that are willing to help expand knowledge for others.
Have a great day!
Nope, not an engineer. Dont think I claimed to be, or even implied it.
again, best of luck selling your kit. Ill go back to dealing with "transducer and systems engineers" that are willing to help expand knowledge for others.
Have a great day!
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...bwoofer-4-ohm/
#107
#110
#111
full metal jacket the movie
#113
here's where u will find what he uses and where he gets it from.........
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...bwoofer-4-ohm/
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...bwoofer-4-ohm/
Of course, I'm not really responding to you since you were banned for plugging your non-advertising vendor's second rate mid-fi imports, so this response is really just for other readers.
#114
#115
Firstly, thank you for the useful information Integral Audio, it is highly appreciated and I would love to upgrade my Mini Boost to your system. However, it is way above my budget so I have decided to go for a more route that is more affordable for my personal situation.
I have current plans to replace every speaker in the car, and what I have done so far is install HK pillar tweeters as well as the channel swap.
I will be going with Pioneer Audio for my audio needs but have some questions that I cannot find the answers to due to lack of knowledge and experience.
The speakers I have in mind will be Pioneer 6 x 9's (straightforward), and component 6 3/4 component speakers for the front (will be replacing the HK tweeters).
A few uncertainties arise:
1. I am trying to source mid-range speakers that will fit the ones by the door handles which is tough due to the fact that my setup at the moment is sub- 3-way. I am having trouble finding a custom sized speaker for this placement from many audio manufacturers (the more affordable ones), but have found one by Pioneer. However, I am not sure if it will fit, and the connection is designed for certain OEM purposes. Here is the link to the speaker: [url]http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/25/131/201/TS-1001i/page.html[/img]
2. I understand that the 2-way 6 3/4 component speakers are designed to work by themselves and not with a mid-range speaker in a 3-way setup such as the Mini R56s with the a-pillar tweeters. Will installing standard 2-way components work when incorporating them into the car with the mid-range door speaker? I plan to purchase these: http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/2...32CI/page.html
3. Would it be better to completely ditch the mid-range speaker and go with the industry standard 2-way component in the front? At the moment I will be using the OEM Boost Headunit, which pushes very little power and have a feeling it will not be very good at pushing new 6x9s, 2-way components, and mid-range speakers. Perhaps in the future I will upgrade the original stereo to an aftermarket 2-din and add an active amplifier to push the new speakers to their RMS potentials.
4. Is my current setup-mini boost 4 channel with the added tweeters- still a 4-channel setup? Which speakers are sharing the same outputs (mid-range and mid-range woofer)? I am not sure if the front speaker setup is a 3-way or 2-way with tweeters stealing channel power...
Any help would be highly appreciated!
I have current plans to replace every speaker in the car, and what I have done so far is install HK pillar tweeters as well as the channel swap.
I will be going with Pioneer Audio for my audio needs but have some questions that I cannot find the answers to due to lack of knowledge and experience.
The speakers I have in mind will be Pioneer 6 x 9's (straightforward), and component 6 3/4 component speakers for the front (will be replacing the HK tweeters).
A few uncertainties arise:
1. I am trying to source mid-range speakers that will fit the ones by the door handles which is tough due to the fact that my setup at the moment is sub- 3-way. I am having trouble finding a custom sized speaker for this placement from many audio manufacturers (the more affordable ones), but have found one by Pioneer. However, I am not sure if it will fit, and the connection is designed for certain OEM purposes. Here is the link to the speaker: [url]http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/25/131/201/TS-1001i/page.html[/img]
2. I understand that the 2-way 6 3/4 component speakers are designed to work by themselves and not with a mid-range speaker in a 3-way setup such as the Mini R56s with the a-pillar tweeters. Will installing standard 2-way components work when incorporating them into the car with the mid-range door speaker? I plan to purchase these: http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/2...32CI/page.html
3. Would it be better to completely ditch the mid-range speaker and go with the industry standard 2-way component in the front? At the moment I will be using the OEM Boost Headunit, which pushes very little power and have a feeling it will not be very good at pushing new 6x9s, 2-way components, and mid-range speakers. Perhaps in the future I will upgrade the original stereo to an aftermarket 2-din and add an active amplifier to push the new speakers to their RMS potentials.
4. Is my current setup-mini boost 4 channel with the added tweeters- still a 4-channel setup? Which speakers are sharing the same outputs (mid-range and mid-range woofer)? I am not sure if the front speaker setup is a 3-way or 2-way with tweeters stealing channel power...
Any help would be highly appreciated!
#116
#117
A 2 way component is what OP recommends in the first post. I did that and put a tweeter in the upper door position and woofer in the lower door. There may be some rationale to what you suggest in a " proper". 3 way system using a combination of front and back speakers but i had not heard of that yet.
#118
i haven't heard of a 3-way system utilizing the 6x9's in the back either, but i would like to know if it's possible to use a 2-way component, where the tweeter is mounted in the OEM HiFi/HK position on the a-pillar and the woofer is mounted on the bottom door, in addition, adding a mid-range 3-4 inch speaker in the mid door position by the door handle. *will this work*
Currently my speaker setup is all factory (adding HK tweeters to the mini boost) and all speakers are functioning which leads me to think that it is theoretically a 3-way system at the front stage, but what is it in terms of physical speaker wiring?. I just dont know if adding a 2-way component system + a mid range speaker in the positions mentioned above would work and would like to know if anybody can chime in on this. I plan to simply replace the rear speakers and keep them as their respective channels. thanks!
Currently my speaker setup is all factory (adding HK tweeters to the mini boost) and all speakers are functioning which leads me to think that it is theoretically a 3-way system at the front stage, but what is it in terms of physical speaker wiring?. I just dont know if adding a 2-way component system + a mid range speaker in the positions mentioned above would work and would like to know if anybody can chime in on this. I plan to simply replace the rear speakers and keep them as their respective channels. thanks!
#119
I own a R56 -08 with the Hi-Fi kit installed. I have thought several times on how and what to replace it with as I'm not happy with the sound. My first thought was to get the HK system and just replace my Hi-Fi with this one. Googling the web for HK reviews I found this thread and I must say that it sounds very interesting indeed.
A couple of questions though, I live in Sweden and thus have the EU model, are there any differences that would make the IA system incompatible? Thinking primarily on electrical connections where it could differ.
I read a thread on our Swedish MINI forum where a guy replaced Hi-Fi speakers with aftermarket ones. While doing this he also installed dampening material(Silent Coat) on almost all surfaces available. Is this a good idea or will it have a negative effect on the IA system?
A couple of questions though, I live in Sweden and thus have the EU model, are there any differences that would make the IA system incompatible? Thinking primarily on electrical connections where it could differ.
I read a thread on our Swedish MINI forum where a guy replaced Hi-Fi speakers with aftermarket ones. While doing this he also installed dampening material(Silent Coat) on almost all surfaces available. Is this a good idea or will it have a negative effect on the IA system?
#120
#122
#123
Soldering is best but a quality crimp will do
If you have a big amp with some frame shaking bass in which case I would solder the connections at the speaker.
#124