It is pin 1 on either side of the connector - pull the connector apart and look closely and you will see the pin numbering. As long as you leave the connector intact (you have to) you can tap anywhere along it's length. Since you have an R57 it is possible that you have a single large gauge black wire somewhere in the X15 (I'd have to double-check in our documentation), but even so pin 1 will be the correct RAD_ON signal.

You want the red posi-tap. Use a different turn-on wire if necessary - the blue one you are using is much, much larger than it needs to be. The turn on wire carries extremely little current - the voltage drop would be trivial even with a lead 10 times the length of the one you need, certainly not enough to be outside the range of acceptable turn-on voltage.

 

I shoud have realized this before. Thank you Kevin for your patience and support. I was NOT on pin1 before. I have 2 black wires. Pin 1 is much smaller and barely took the Red Posi-tap connector. I had to carefully do this a second time to avoid an off center piercing. I lost signal jiggling the wire bundle up into the panel and had to redo the tap.

Thank you for posting and helping me see the light and hear the very loud gong. Woohoo! Amp is finally installed.

 

Took another 3 day weekend drive through the Texas Hill Country with about 15 other MINIs and I don’t know what I would do without my IA Soundstage w/sub. It is so amazing and makes the car just that more enjoyable. I just bought a 2012 Ram CrewCab with the Alpine full system with sub under the rear seat. It sounds OK with a little bass but still no comparison to the IA system in the MINI. The mids and highs are just not there and the bass frequency is just not there. I paid big bucks for that Alpine (it came with the package I got on the truck) but I’m sure if I broke it down it would be a few grand. Just the head unit was an additional $1200….. Again I can’t say more great things about the Soundstage with Sub.

Kevin if you read this, send me a bunch of Business cards as I meet so many people that want info on the system and I could be passing them out like crazy..

Here is the install again if anyone wants to look....:-)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/digital...7629768965607/

 

Hello I have a 09 mini cooper and wanted to ad a amp and sub .. But I didn't want to spend 1k+ for just a amp and sub .. This car is just a DD and only use it to travel and work .. So any advice? What's needed besides a amp sub, box, amp kit? Anything special? And I know nothing of stereos .. Thank u

 

I hate to say it but an AMP, SUB, and kit to use with the factory head unit (if thats where you're going) will cost you quite a bit. Since you know nothing about stereo systems then I would imagine you will be having a shop install this… there goes about $200 in labor. More than likely it will sound ok but probably not. Cartoys wanted $3000 for a low end system for mine when I talked to them…. It was $800 just to build a box….CRAZY…. I would save up your money and look at the IA sub kit and install it yourself as it’s totally plug and play, and you can say you did it at the end on the day. No one will even know you have a sub till they hear it ..... Just my opinion….good luck

 

6x9 subs..........saves boot space......no enclosure just add an amp and go

 

Minizap, Do you think the 6x9s sound as good as a sub box.
Is this what you have in your Mini ? If so is the bass thumping ?
I like the idea of being stealthy without the box in the back.
Back in the day I heard some mean Triax Pioneers v69 6x9 speakers that sounded incredibly bassy.

 

Interesting. I am also interested to hear experiences with 6x9 subs.

 

I've posted on this previously, but there are several challenges here. Two 6x9's in the rear locations could be a reasonable low frequency solution, but ONLY with the EXACT right speaker. That speaker does not currently commercially exist, and developing it is cost prohibitive given the limited uses for it (there is a reason that the speaker MiniZap posted was discontinued more than 2 years ago!). Developing such a speaker (without violating existing intellectual property) requires a deep mounting depth, and there are very few vehicles that can use it (that aren't better served with a conventional 8" or 10"), leaving very few units to amortize tooling and NRE charges, and even unit costs for that matter. At the end of the day, it just doesn't work. That's why 6x9 subs come and go, but mostly go.

We looked extensively at developing a 6x9 instead of our current subwoofer solution but in the end did not, for several reasons: 1) even with the perfect speaker with the perfect parameters built specifically for that free-air location AND the vehicle, you will still have very inferior performance to the 10" solution, and 2) the total cost difference is basically nil when you factor in the additional installation time required for removal/replacement of the entire rear of the vehicle interior along with the cost of TWO expensive 6x9 drivers (and doing the driver correctly IS expensive).

Does that mean you can't stick two random 6x9 "subwoofers" in the rear and call it a day? Of course not. Just don't expect to get anything approaching the performance of our system.

Bottom line: we had (and have) every option available to us when designing this system. If two 6x9's were the way to go, we would have done it. Trust me, I would love to have a lower-priced system for the MINI - we are too expensive for the average demographic for this vehicle. But there was no way to achieve a lower price and still meet our quality standards.

 

The subwoofer above is available but in EU.........., But I found these's on Ebay for $190.........HD-690CF CDT AUDIO 6x9 CARBON FIBER SUBWOOFER MIDWOOFER
Along with
Lanzar MNX260 (MNX260) 1000W 2-Channel Mini Max Series Power Car Amplifier/Amp for $70.00<H1 id=itemTitle class=it-ttl itemprop="name">the amp is really small and can fit in the side cubby hole with no problem......thats a total of $260!!!! and u save ur boot space!!!!!!! or if u want a sealed enclosure they have package deals on sonicelectronix for under $200......if u want a box!

imho! IJS! PEACE......
</H1>

 

http://www.dnacaraudio.co.uk/genesis...p69-subwoofer/

here is the web site if your're interested in the GENESIS DEVICE!!!!!!!!! a little Star Trek humor...........Bazinga!!!!!

 

[QUOTE=jcwzap;3661080]http://www.dnacaraudio.co.uk/genesis...p69-subwoofer/

here is the web site if your're interested in the GENESIS DEVICE!!!!!!!!! a little Star Trek humor...........Bazinga!!!!

 

bottom line its about savings...........$260 vs $1200............for BASS???????????? with the money u save u can buy a nice set of rim and tires!!!!!!!!!

 

I've been doing music in cars, since my first car, 1973 Datsun 510, back in 1980!!! there's no mystery to positive and negative wiring........all u guys have to do is GOOGLE any questions, or if ur looking for something specific, its on the net!!!!! for free!!!!!!!! Good luck to those looking for more bump in the boot. I hope this clears up any info ur looking for........and u ask if it sounds great?????? I think 260 sounds better than 1200................and its commercially availabe!!!!! and they both exist!

 

I see your point but I've been burned several times in the past thinking I was getting a good deal from Al & Ed's, or putting a system together myself, doing my own research only to not meeting my expectations. All this info from Integral is free and also on the internet and Kevin is super helpful when it comes to questions and customer service and for me that's worth it's weight in gold. You're paying for more then just hardware.

I don't doubt you can put together a good system on the cheap but I couldn't find anything that lead me to believe that would be comparable to the full package from Integral. Ebay is to dodgy for my taste and I wasn't even about to build my own wire hardness and hack into the cars harness. But to each their own.

Cheers

Josh

 

Bottom line............260 vs 1200. If u got it like that, then hey! Do u brother. But I sure as hell won't spend that kind of money on a speaker box. Especially in a car with no space. And there's no haking of wires, just take the leads that currently go into the 6x9 speaker and put them in the amp, then run the wires from the amp back into the 6x9 subs and there u have it. No hacking or going to the foot well and tapping into the harness and doing all that craziness. If u do ur homework and research exactly what u want to do, in the end you'll feel great that u accomplished something on ur own while saving a ton of money. 260 and u saved boot space......and the harmonic distortion is in the pudding. Dont get distorted. Peace out........motor on. MMG

 

I see everyone’s point here about saving money also but my 2 cents are that the Integral Audio system sounds incredible and I’ve had nothing but 100% positive feedback from it. It was plug-n-play (no hacking wires) and even the dealer has no idea that it’s been installed. It takes up less space than 4 pairs of folded Levis. I showed it off at MINIs on the Dragon 2012 last year ( 4,000 mile road trip and never missed the space the sub took up) and there were a few that could not believe what they were hearing and had spent as much or double on just the mids and highs in there MINI R56's AND had no truck space as it was full of speakers. I bought the full system which included the SoundStage front lows, mids and highs. I have B&W 804s for my home set-up and these are about $5000 speakers powered by high end amps that sound unbelievable too and I have no regrets about the $2000 I spent every time I get in and start-up my JCW with the Soundstage and sub. I am no way affiliated with Integral Audio just a customer….. If it wasn’t for the fact that my 2006 GP had no back seat and that I want to keep it totally stock I would be calling Kevin for a system for it too, it would just be the sub but it will stay stock for now.
I was way ahead of my time in the late 80's /early 90’s doing car stereos in all my cars and they all sounded awesome and I loved spending every weekend messing with them and tweaking them. I just don’t have the time anymore and would rather spend the time I have enjoying the music/stereo that someone else designed for my cars…. I did take a few days to install the IA system but it was fun.... have a look
http://www.flickr.com/photos/digital...7629768965607/
Good luck to everyone.

 

I took the advice from Kevin's original post on this thread for the best low cost upgrade of the standard system: (1) front/rear channel swap; (2) replace the front speakers with "a very efficient 2-way 6.5” component set." I chose Polk Audio db6501 (92 dB efficiency, crossovers set to neutral, $106.20 on Amazon). (3) I replaced the rear speakers with Infinity REF-9603IX (94 dB efficiency, $119.98 on Amazon). With the head unit treble control now set to +4, the bass set to -2, and the fader favoring the front by +1, I'm very happy with the result - clear natural sound with good imaging and sufficient bass for me to enjoy it. Thank you, Kevin.

 

Can someone tell me please if there is a full range signal going to each speaker or is there an inline crossover hidden somewhere in the Boost stereo?
I'm thinking of replacing my speakers but I want to know if I install a new set of speakers if I need to search out crossovers (and remove them) from the existing system.
I'm intrigued by the last poster here and the Polk, Infinity set up that you got Yehuda. But will I have to simply install the new speakers or tear the car apart looking for stock MINI bass blockers in the system?

 

The channel swap switches the effect of MINI's bass-blocking filter from the rear speakers to the front speakers. Since the rear speakers are bigger, they can make better use of the bass signal than the fronts can. I did not tear my car apart beyond what was necessary to do the channel swap and install the speakers (actually, I had a pro install the speakers because I was reluctant to rip out the panels in my brand new car when I didn't know what I was doing. The channel swap I did myself.)

 

Questions for Kevin or anyone else who wants to chime in:

Has any analysis been done to compare the signal differences between the USB and AUX inputs? I am always looking to get the cleanest signal possible; my 2011 R56 did not come with the USB input and I'm wondering if the Bluetooth retrofit kit is worth the cost and effort (when used with the IA Soundstage + Sub combo).

In regards to the factory 100hz rolloff, how does the Soundstage kit address this? Would this setup benefit from OEM integration/signal processing boxes such as JL's Cleansweep, RF's 3Sixty, Bit one, etc?

 

I used the AUX and it was horrible (no bass and songs were muffled). I installed the OEM MINI/BMW I-POD Interface which goes in the hidden compartment and plugs into the I-POD using a 30 pin sync connector (whatever that’s called…lol) just like the docking station and it sounded a little better (not great) but had the convenience of (next) (FF and RW) I-pod control from the steering wheel and complete control of the I-POD from the MINI head unit. After some research I found that I needed to re rip my CDs using the Apple Lossless format and it is night and day difference when using the IA Soundstage and subwoofer. It’s like listening to the CD. I have been slowly re-ripping all my CDs and my MINI sounds firkin awesome …. Ever note is crystal clear; I’ve been told that people hear stuff in songs they have never heard before when in my JCW…..I use the AUX when I’m in my 06 GP just because I don’t want to modify it in any way….Hope this helps

 

The AUX is purely analog, and has a number of shortcomings - notably a poor quality connector and design. It's also plagued by the various sensor voltages that are applied to the headphone jack on phones/mp3 players/etc. What I don't recall at the moment (someone else help me here) is whether the MINI USB uses it's onboard DAC or the external devices. If you can unplug the 3.5mm jack and still get audio when in USB control then you are getting digital from the external device. This SHOULD be the case, I just can't remember right now. Anyway, this is preferable and is far superior to the analog 3.5mm jack.

The rears are relegated to fill-only (see my other posts on this), and all other signals are pulled from the front HU output, which are flat.

Definitely not. Those would do nothing to improve an already flat signal, and using any of the eq features would negate the vehicle-specific crossover design. The best way to think of the IA systems is that they already have this functionality built in! That's the whole point. Granted, it is done at the analog rather than digital level, but given the higher level of measurement and modeling that we do, and the precision with which we can tailor those analog circuits (remember, we design and build our own PCBs), the end result is far superior, with zero room for error.

 

Kevin,
Your were going to send me some cards??? I still have people asking about the system all the time.... by the way I bought an 06 GP with 10,300mls on it... :-)... but still love driving the R56 JCW with your system....an IA sub would look a little silly in the GP with no back seat... lol

 

Yes, my apologies, it is still on my to-do list. Been absolutely swamped, but will do that this week....