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I want to install an Alpine PDX 4.100 in my '09 R55 Mini w/ HiFi to power Focal 165VR3 fronts and the OEM rear speakers. I've been searching the boards, but any information on amp installs is so scattered it's hard to make sense of it.
What is involved in the process?
I know that there should be cables leading to the HiFi amp in the boot... can you just switch these over to the new amp, disconnect the HiFi, put in your crossovers, and be done? Probably not, but why not?
I'm not asking for instructions (although that would be nice ), but I'm wondering if anyone could list the steps required to put a new amp in the car, or just some way I can assess whether or not this is within my capability.
Last edited by bubblehelix; 12-08-2009 at 05:18 PM.
Reason: whoops, added speaker info
1. Run power from the battery to the amp with cable that is at least 4 gauge.
2. Run a ground cable to the chassis that is at least 4 gauge.
3. run a small wire for an amp turn-on signal from the cigarette lighter socket.
4. Make a pass-through connector for the X9331 that diverts the 8 audio wires from the HU side of the X9331 connector to the inputs on your amp, and passes the other four wires onto the other side of the X9331 connector.
5. Run wires from your amp to the speakers. Somewhat challenging to get them into the doors, but it can be done done.
If the mood struck me (or someone paid me a large sum of money ) I could hunt down all the related threads and put them together as comprehensive instrucions. Or, someone else could...
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
There's a great how to on this in the current issue of Modern Mini. You can also get a wiring harness that takes care of step 4 and some of 5 above.
__________________ 2009 MINI Cooper S
Midnight black, white roof, white stripes
sport | comfort | convenience | 6spd | Richbrook Antenna | Forge BOV | DoS noisemaker delete | JCW shift/ebrake knobs | Redline Goods boots
I hate always disagreeing with robin...but with amp like this good quality 8ga will be fine for the power and ground. 4ga would be overkill, but acceptable...anything more would be wasting money.
The rest of his suggestions i will let someone else weigh in on.
I hate always disagreeing with robin...but with amp like this good quality 8ga will be fine for the power and ground. 4ga would be overkill, but acceptable...anything more would be wasting money.
The rest of his suggestions i will let someone else weigh in on.
And unfortunately i will have to agree with Robin on the mater of the power wire. To draw the amperage needed at spikes like these amps need it is much better to run a larger wire like a 4 gauge. A 6 would work but when it come done to the instantaneous draw needed an 8 just has to much resistance.
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Originally Posted by brightwhite
There's a great how to on this in the current issue of Modern Mini. You can also get a wiring harness that takes care of step 4 and some of 5 above.
Yes there is a harness that can do all much of this but when you have to take apart the whole dash to install it, it make much more sense to use the x9331 connector where you only have to take off one small panel. BTW the AMP ON line is in the connector right near the X9931.
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And unfortunately i will have to agree with Robin on the mater of the power wire. To draw the amperage needed at spikes like these amps need it is much better to run a larger wire like a 4 gauge. A 6 would work but when it come done to the instantaneous draw needed an 8 just has to much resistance.
on a class D amp in real world situation powering front and rear speakers???
I will politely disagree with both of you and repeat my last post...8 will be fine....4 would be OK...a bit over kill and 2 would be ridiculous.
The reason i say this is because 8 will probably have a voltage drop of less than 1/2 volt at the amp vs 4 ga....which with that unit will not be harmful or noticeable.
That being said...i am underwired on my soundstream amp (10gauge ) and when i do upgrade it will be to 4ga....even though 10 ga is working just fine and am pulling more juice from the battery than the alpine he is buying.
Wow, this sounds like a heck of a project, especially for someone without a garage, and a new car under warranty. I don't know if a shop could even do this properly for a Mini... could they? I might just have to pass on an amp, although I know my system could benefit from one. Just sounds like too much trouble
Many shops have installed amps in 2nd Gen. MINIs. Make sure to find a shop that has worked on 2nd Gen MINIs and guarantee that if the car's electronics get fried, they will pay for it.
Another option would be to look into replacing the HIFI with the H/K system.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Wow, this sounds like a heck of a project, especially for someone without a garage, and a new car under warranty. I don't know if a shop could even do this properly for a Mini... could they? I might just have to pass on an amp, although I know my system could benefit from one. Just sounds like too much trouble
your system will benefit first from better speakers...next from a powered sub...and THEN an amplifier.
your system will benefit first from better speakers...next from a powered sub...and THEN an amplifier.
speakers you can easily do yourself.
Well, I'm not so sure I'm going to get a sub just yet. As it is the bass output is okay for me, but I figured an amp would really give my 6.5"s what they need. The additional clarity and volume would be a plus too. I don't totally blast my music but I do get into clipping sometimes (consisting of loud scary popping noises from the speakers, not so much distortion).
The process of installing an amp just sounds like too much, though, unless it's easier than it seems somehow...
Oops, forgot to mention I'm running Focal 165VR3 3-way comps off the HiFi amp
Last edited by bubblehelix; 12-08-2009 at 05:19 PM.
Well, I'm not so sure I'm going to get a sub just yet. As it is the bass output is okay for me, but I figured an amp would really give my 6.5"s what they need. The additional clarity and volume would be a plus too. I don't totally blast my music but I do get into clipping sometimes (consisting of loud scary popping noises from the speakers, not so much distortion).
The process of installing an amp just sounds like too much, though, unless it's easier than it seems somehow...
Oops, forgot to mention I'm running Focal 165VR3 3-way comps off the HiFi amp
nah you mentioned it in the first post..i just forgot
Its not hard to install an amp...but i have been doing this for 20+ years.
In a nutshell, and i am sure i will get some flack...but here it is:
1. up in the front passenger kick panel..open that panel and dig inside there is a HUGE power wire....tap into that(fused it )and run an 8 gauge wire back to the trunk...
2. Tap into the x9331 connector and bring those 4 wires back to the trunk for speaker level inputs to new amp
3. You might need a remote turn on....thats not hard to find...i have a cleansweep so i don't need one.
4. wire up amp and ground it to the chassis.
5. run speaker wires back up front to the focal's.
Hardest part is snaking the wire...but thats not brain surgery.
ts not hard to install an amp...but i have been doing this for 20+ years.
Experience makes it easier. Having a garage to work in also makes it easier.
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In a nutshell, and i am sure i will get some flack...but here it is:
Flack to follow, get out that flack jacket.
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1. up in the front passenger kick panel..open that panel and dig inside there is a HUGE power wire....tap into that(fused it )and run an 8 gauge wire back to the trunk...
That kick panel is very near the a rubber grommet that goes through the fire wall to the battery. Do it right and run a 4 gauge wire from the battery to your amp's location. There is a bolt on the + battery connector that you can just add the terminal of a fuse holder to.
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2. Tap into the x9331 connector and bring those 4 wires back to the trunk for speaker level inputs to new amp
Eight wires.
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3. You might need a remote turn on....thats not hard to find...i have a cleansweep so i don't need one.
Here is where I had some difficulty. Tapping into certain circuits can cause strange things to happen. The cigarette lighter circuit is probably best. If the amp is in the boot, get it from the socket in the boot.
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4. wire up amp and ground it to the chassis.
with a 4 gauge wire.
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5. run speaker wires back up front to the focal's.
Hardest part is snaking the wire...but thats not brain surgery.
Getting into the doors is most difficult. Schatzy62 posted some helpful instructions and photos for the door wiring, and battery wiring.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Thanks for all the info! This is starting to take shape and look more manageable, but it's still quite a task -- gotta plan it out well. Really appreciate the info from everyone.
Gents: dumb question... but why can't you simply replace the existing amp? Surely all the wiring is already done for you? (except maybe upgrading the power supply wires).
I must be missing something.
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2008 Clubman S with lots of toys built-in. Mods/home made: iPhone holder + Escort 8500 radar mute button next to 'sport mode' + boss bass controller under stereo + LED lighting for boot area.
), but I'm wondering if anyone could list the steps required to put a new amp in the car, or just some way I can assess whether or not this is within my capability.
) I could hunt down all the related threads and put them together as comprehensive instrucions. Or, someone else could...
