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Firstly it seems more cheaply built compared to my 2004. The seat stiching is completely unaccepatable (vinyl). will be taking this up with BMW Canada. You would never see that in a BMW.
I would like to upgrade the 6 speaker stock stereo but need advice. I'm thinking new speakers all round and a small amp. Thinking component in the front with getting new "A" pilars with the tweeter hole either form my dealer or from the UK.
Firstly. The Amp. I thinking under the passenger seat. How do I wire this up? I guess there is no amp input from the back of the stock radio (I have blue tooth). Do you just amplify the front speaker outputs (not great for sound) and then run new wires to all the new speakers. Is there a wiring loom you can patch into or is it all do rom scratch?
Speakers. Thinking Infinity 6030cs for the front but should I put a new speaker in the old top speaker hole? I'm not sur how to wire that if I only have a 4 channel amp? Maybe I should get 6 channels? Maybe that amp would be too big to fit under the seat.
I guess you lose the fader control if I patch into the front speaker wires. Can you patch in to front and rear or do you lose the signal on the back speakers because of the signal being filtered.
You need to do some reading in this forum. All your questions have been answered here.
There is a thread about replacing the A-pillars to add tweeters. There are a number of USA sources. Not sure why you would want to go to the UK for them. The difficulty is not getting the parts, but how to run the wires to them.
I had Infinity Kappa 60.7cs in my HIFI equipped MCS. I didn't like them. Too bright. Some say it is a problem with the Infinit crossovers, and/or the odd EQ from the MINI amp. I've gone to an Image Dynamics Q 450.4 amp, their CTX69 in a custom rear install, and CXS64 V.2 speakers in front. I'm putting the front tweeters in the upper speaker location of the doors.
There is much debate on tweeter location. Some favor the A-pillars, some favor the doors. Some have gone with 3-way components and custom mounted the tweeter higher in the door.
Search on X9331 connector for where to get signal for an amp. There is some debate about whether you need a CleanSweep (or similar device) to clean up the mangled signal that the standard audio head unit puts out. Fortunately for me, the HIFI doesn't have that problem. Filtering comes after the X9331 connector.
With the standard audio, you could buy both halves of the X9331 connector and make a cable to run from the HU side of the X9331 to your amp (or CleanSweep), and another cable from your speaker outs on the amp to the other side of the X9331 connector. Otherwise, you would need to run your own speaker wiring into the doors. A pain, but doable. That is what I did. More difficult to use the OEM speaker wiring with the HIFI option.
Some people have managed to put amps under the front seat. Some amps are too large. There is a fair amount of space under the rear seats. I'm surprised people don't put amps there.
Some of the speakers that are favored here are Focal, Polk, JL, and Hertz.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Thanks for the reply Robyn. I guess one of my questions is what amps fit under the seat? If you are patching into the seaker leads why not just cut them after the connector and then reroute them to the amp. I guess you could then patch back into them with the amp out puts. I guess if you are using component speakers you will at the very least have to rewire everything inside the door.
Thanks for the reply Robyn. I guess one of my questions is what amps fit under the seat? If you are patching into the seaker leads why not just cut them after the connector and then reroute them to the amp. I guess you could then patch back into them with the amp out puts. I guess if you are using component speakers you will at the very least have to rewire everything inside the door.
if you ever wanted to take it back to factory there is no patching of wires back together. if you make a interconnect as Robin has done you just unplug an plug back the OEM connectors.
But as Robin stated what you need to do is read as all even this one has been answered many time here on the forum.
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08MCCS, HC/HC/Blk, 6 SPD, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, Convenience, HiFi, HC L/C - Steering Wheel - Shift Knob-Boot, - E Brake Handle-Boot, English Oak - 17" Web Spoke (R98) Painted H/C, H/C Club Member #42.
Has anyone used the wiring harnesses from newministuff in the UK? They sell the bare bones a pilar covers for 1/2 the price I would pay in Canada too. they have a total system amp, speakers and wiring. I'm thinking just the wiring and buy everything else here.
I have one of the wiring harnesses from newministuff and although it is a pain to get the dash apart it was well worth it in my opinion.
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08MCCS, HC/HC/Blk, 6 SPD, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, Convenience, HiFi, HC L/C - Steering Wheel - Shift Knob-Boot, - E Brake Handle-Boot, English Oak - 17" Web Spoke (R98) Painted H/C, H/C Club Member #42.
Did you use their speakers & amp too? Did you use pillar speakers or door with the tweeters replacing the top speakers? Mike at Newministuf says that they put their crossovers next to the amp under the passenger seat. Did you do this?
When you say you usd their harness did you use the harness that plugs into the X9331? Did you use as they do the existing speaker wires to the front and back speakers?
I used the newministuff harness that goes on the back of the head unit. They have 5-6 different ones with different output features I.E. two channel speaker level two channel rca, four channel speaker level, four channel rca, etc. It all depends on what exaactly you want form yoru system as to exactly which harness you need.
I am not sure if newministuff makes a harness for the x9331 connector or not. But i d know That Robin Casidy has made one and will sell you one or tell you how to get the parts to make it your self if you would rather go that way.
As you can see by some of the pictures in the above listed thread there is a lot of the dash that has to come apart to get the radio out.
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08MCCS, HC/HC/Blk, 6 SPD, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, Convenience, HiFi, HC L/C - Steering Wheel - Shift Knob-Boot, - E Brake Handle-Boot, English Oak - 17" Web Spoke (R98) Painted H/C, H/C Club Member #42.
My understanding of that this loom is only for amp with high level inputs. Afterall if you don't take the HU apart and patch into the feed directly from the preamp (which would definately void your warranty!) thats all you can ever do. I.E. amplify a crappy signal from the HU's amp.
What I'm not getting is if you have an amp that accepts those why not just patch into the speaker wires and save fiddling behind the HU?
I must be missing something.
Anyone else figure this out? I would love if you could explain.
My understanding of that this loom is only for amp with high level inputs.
It that's true, it would probably be the same signal as found at the X9331 connector. Much easier to make a plug for the X9331 connector and sent that to your amp. No need to tap into speakers wires or take the dash apart.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
It must be true don't you think Robyn? Unless the loom by passes the main amp in the HU.......but then why would mininewstuff use high level input into their amp.
You have told about the debate about whether you need a CleanSweep to clean up the mangled signal that the standard audio head unit puts out or not. What do you think whats the best option you would like to opt for?
