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After reading all of the trials, tribulations and ultimate successes of the members in this forum, I’ve decided to take the plunge and upgrade the base (non-HIFI) stereo in my 09 Justa Clubman.
I am going to connect an Alpine PXE-H650 and was wondering if anyone has successfully made a pass-thru connector for the X9331? I’m trying to compile a list of parts I will need. Someone, (I believe Robin Casady) was kind enough to provide the part numbers for the male (speaker side) of the connector:
Plug Housing - 61131378137 - Holds the male pins
Male pins - 61131376193 - You need 12
Those are the plug parts I used. I'm very close to first test. I was going to finish installing lumbar support in the driver's seat first. Should do that today. May actually test it all today -- if I get up the nerve.
That isn't a pass-through connector. That just replaces one half of the X9331 connector, leaving the other side disconnected. It isn't known yet whether that is OK in the HIFI system (which I have). Schatzy62 says it works fine in his MINI, but I think he started with the standard audio.
My original plan was to make a pass-through X9331 connector. I got one built where the male and female housings were back-to-back (instead of the normal belly-to-belly connection ). However, as I put them together, I lost one connection and had to tear it apart. So, I decided to try just the male half, leaving the HIFI amp unplugged. If I have to take it to the dealer for a software upgrade, I may have to unplug my amp and plug in the HIFI amp.
My Q 450.4 amp has RCA inputs so I used a Kicker ZI44 (09ZI44) 13 ft. 4-Channel RCA Audio Interconnect Cable instead of the wires you are using. Only cost $30 and has RCA plugs attached. I just cut them off one end. The wires are rather delicate, but not much is needed for signal to the amp.
You just need the normal tools: soldering iron, needle nose pliers, etc.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
I think I used the wrong terminology. Maybe I should have said wiring harness. I'm planning on leaving the speaker (male) side disconnected and run new wiring to the current speaker locations. If I ever have to get the car back to stock, the original wiring will be in place.
The PXE-H650 has a harness of its own that needs to be wired to the high level input coming from the head unit. So the plan is to create a male side X9331 connector using the wire linked above and solder that to the harness for the H650. Do you think this will work?
The only car audio experience I have is the installation of a new headunit in a 94 Camry about 12 years ago. This forum is a GREAT resource and there is no way I would attempt this install with out its collective knowledge. I'm really excited to start tearing my Clubby apart
Test failed. Engine wont start without the X9331 connected to the HIFI amp side of the connector. NAV comes on, can set time/date, but no engine. Unplugged my X9331 connector, plugged in the original, and the engine started.
Not sure what pins, exactly, need to be connected, but it looks like I'll have to make a true pass-through connector.
So, you will need the female parts for the X9331 connector as well as the male.
Female X9331 Housing - 61131378139
Female socket pins (you need 12) - 61131376204
Male X9331 housing - 61131378137
Male Pins - 61131376193
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
do a search here robin, i think it is the large brown wire.
You are saying only the large brown wire needs to be passed through? I'm not sure what search criteria I would use to find which wire needs to pass through.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
You are saying only the large brown wire needs to be passed through? I'm not sure what search criteria I would use to find which wire needs to pass through.
maybe the yellow wire? i searched titles for "start"
Maybe not a helpful post since I didn't get finished before the sun went down, but here's what I have done today:
From the x9331, the female pins of my pass-through connect to what I believe is the output from the HU (which I'm 50% sure is correct. If not, I have the splices and the other pins to make it right). From there, the audio signals go into the harness provided with the JL Cleansweep, which is installed next to the Bluetooth unit under the driver's seat. Had to modify the tray it was in, but that wasn't hard. The other wires pass through, all with AWG16 speaker wire that I repurposed for the job. I know for a fact that with those grounds and signals passed through, the car starts just fine, but no sound.
From there, and less important to you, I have RCA cables under the carpet around the center console to an Alpine F300 4 channel amp under the passenger seat. Also have the turn on signals and power for the CS on that path. Just trying to figure out now which fuse I want to tap into for the accessory power. Any advice from someone who's done it?
Have to say the hardest part of this was running the new speaker wire through the rubber to the door. If I were to do it again, I'd seriously think about running a signal BACK to the x9331 from the amplifier for the front speakers, even though AWG20 might be borderline too small for the power.
Finished modifying the X9331 connector, tapped fuse F31 for amp-on signal, and gave it a try. Huston, we have sound! Tomorrow I'll put a few panels back, bolt the seats back in, and set the gains on the amp.
What I did with the X9331 connector was to buy both a male and female connector. The male (holds the pins) has the Kicker 4-Channel RCA Audio Interconnect Cable connected to the audio channels. That leaves four -- Large Brown Ground, Brown & White, Large White, and Small Brown. I ran wires from these four only to my female connector. It then plugs into the car's male connector, but only gives it those four wires. No audio signals go to the HIFI amp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by miniSQ
maybe the yellow wire? i searched titles for "start"
There is something not quite right about that post. First, there is no solid yellow wire. All yellows are combination colors, and they carry audio channels. Secondly, who in their right mind would put a circuit related to the starter in a loom going to an amp in the rear? I think OXYBLUECOOP was pulling a leg or two. The funny thing about it is that it is at least partially correct. If you unplug the X9331 connector in a HIFI equipped MINI, the engine wont start. I suspect it has more to do with what Dr Obnxs, Schatzy62 were saying about ground connections in post 17 & 18 of an amp turn-on thread.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Just wanted to pass along that my Justa Clubman would not start unless I passed along the 4 non-speaker wires of the X9331 connector. The car's electrical system seemed to be functioning but the engine would not start.
It seems that OXYBLUECOOP was not pulling any legs. Seems he was correct about one of the four going to the starter motor. The others go to the climate control system. So, they all do need to be connected.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
I guess the Mini's computer has a way of checking what is connected to it, which might partly explain why the HiFi amp has to be connected for a software update.
Glad to hear you're getting up and running, Robin, let us know how it goes!
For the most part, everything is great. The Image Dynamics amp and speakers sound much better than the Infinity Kappa speakers with the HIFI amp.
The only glitch is that I'm using an Add-A-Circuit at fuse location F30 5A 15 X11001 6 0.5 GN/WS Park distance control (PDC) for the amp turn on signal, and some of the PDC signals play through the wrong speakers. At some point I'll change to a tap into the cigarette lighter circuit, but that requires pulling the shift console out. Can't use an Add-A-Circuit because it is a 20 amp circuit and they don't make an Add-A-Circuit that can handle that amperage.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
I can vouch for ECS Tuning. The order is held for the part that takes the longest to arrive. It probably took 10 days from order placement to arrival, but one part (expanding rivet) was listed as 4-7 day lead time.
I don't think either company stocks the parts. They order them from BMW. So, you have to wait for them to ship from BMW to ECS Tuning, or Pelican Parts. I've ordered from both and same thing happens. However, ECS Tuning is in Ohio, and Pelican is in California. So, Pelican would take longer for shipments to the east coast.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
My ECS shipment took almost two weeks and they shorted me 1 pin. I had ordered 2 extra of each (in case of a goof up) and didn't need the extras, so no big deal.
Update in October 2010 - Found that missing pin in a chair...ECS didn't short me!
I'm getting ready to build my harness with the parts above, which I received from Pelican parts. I have the regular, non-hifi stereo. Do the audio channels still need to be passed through in the harness?
Robin Casady, I see you mentioned that the only ones you had connected were the ones for non-audio channels. I had planned to do something similar - connect the audio channels directly to RCAs and plug them in (my amp supports speaker level inputs if they've got RCA ends on them).
Thanks.
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2009 MINI John Cooper Works // NM RSα Not everything that is more difficult is more meritorious.
I did the pass thru, and only connected the non-audio wires, but took the signal back to the amps from there. For output, I ran all new wire (PITA for the doors). It is important that you use heavy gauge wire where the original adapter has it, as another poster noted that using his A/C burned out his pass-thru and created some other nasty problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydub
I'm getting ready to build my harness with the parts above, which I received from Pelican parts. I have the regular, non-hifi stereo. Do the audio channels still need to be passed through in the harness?
Robin Casady, I see you mentioned that the only ones you had connected were the ones for non-audio channels. I had planned to do something similar - connect the audio channels directly to RCAs and plug them in (my amp supports speaker level inputs if they've got RCA ends on them).
Will do. I'm so anal retentive about how I build wiring harnesses that I was actually considering seeking some white and brown wire to match what is already there. Such overkill, considering it will never be seen.
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2009 MINI John Cooper Works // NM RSα Not everything that is more difficult is more meritorious.
). However, as I put them together, I lost one connection and had to tear it apart. So, I decided to try just the male half, leaving the HIFI amp unplugged. If I have to take it to the dealer for a software upgrade, I may have to unplug my amp and plug in the HIFI amp.
