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Unfortunately all the switches at the top are "electronic" so that there are not any actual contacts to use up there to make the switch do anything. The drive the computer and the computer then has an output that is coded to that switch. These are just like the ones in the lower center console.
It is possible on the lower set Fog light switche to have the computer drive a relay that then could serve as the actual switch to make something work. This is becuase it is a on/off switch from the computer.This may not be posible with the overhead sunroof switch as it is a variable function switch. I.E. depending on how the switch is moved, push and release does one thing, and push and hold does something else, so it is not just an easy on/off type item so hooking the computer output of that switch to a relay may give some strange results.
Thanks for the responce, but unlike the case with the rear fog I don't really want the overhead switch to do anything other then "be there". I was thinking that if it were as easy to add as the lower one I might do it merely to have two complete sets. That is why I said it might be considered "over kill", but what the heck. Us Mini owners are suppose to be strange.
Unfortunately all the switches at the top are "electronic" so that there are not any actual contacts to use up there to make the switch do anything. The drive the computer and the computer then has an output that is coded to that switch. These are just like the ones in the lower center console.
It is possible on the lower set Fog light switche to have the computer drive a relay that then could serve as the actual switch to make something work. This is becuase it is a on/off switch from the computer.This may not be posible with the overhead sunroof switch as it is a variable function switch. I.E. depending on how the switch is moved, push and release does one thing, and push and hold does something else, so it is not just an easy on/off type item so hooking the computer output of that switch to a relay may give some strange results.
I don't think he is looking for a functionally working switch. Just aesthetically wants to fill the missing switch position -- note he said he didn't have a sunroof.
The answer is yes, a switch could be put up there to fill the hole.
If you decide to do it, PM me and I can email you instructions from the electronic service manual.
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Charlie
2009 MCS PW/B, Conv, Cold, Prem, rear foglights, anthracite, xenon, Tuscan leather, cream color line, English oak, interior chrome, 6SPD, Pioneer GM-D9500F 4 channel amp, Polk MM6501 front + MMC690 rear speakers, 17" Enkei PKR Wheels + Nitto Motivo 215/45ZR17 XL tires, FormulaOne Pinnacle tint
Did that this afternoon to my Clubman and will try tomorrow to see any difference. I also notice something...I have an E90 330i and I took off that sunroof switch penal and find out why the bluetooth sound much better in that car (not only because it's quieter). I found 2 mics on each side of grille slots, that is why it sound more clear...from both side inside the car. I guess that's why BMW is more $$ then MINI
__________________
MINI Cooper S Clubman Ordered on 02/27/08, Born on 03/31/08, Pickup on 5/2/08
PW/PW Roof, Black C-Pillar/Hood Stripes, 6-Speed Auto, HID, White Turn Signal, Rear Fog Light, OEM Driving Lights, Wood MFSW, R110 5 Star Pace Wheel with General Exclaim UHP, HC Lounge Leather, Premium, Convenience and Winter Packages
Did that this afternoon to my Clubman and will try tomorrow to see any difference. I also notice something...I have an E90 330i and I took off that sunroof switch penal and find out why the bluetooth sound much better in that car (not only because it's quieter). I found 2 mics on each side of grille slots, that is why it sound more clear...from both side inside the car. I guess that's why BMW is more $$ then MINI
MINI drivers are having to much fun driving to be yacking on the phone. So, why waste the money on a mic?
Besides, driving while phoning is driving drunk.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Just replaced mine in five minutes sitting outside my friends house.
Used a credit card to pop off the panel cover, easy as pie.
I actually didn't even end up disconnecting the mike from the wire. It's small enough to feed the entire microphone through the top to the other side if you're careful.
One important note though, as mentioned in earlier posts, is that the microphone snaps back in backwards on the other side.
I spent a bit of time wondering why it wouldn't fit the other way until I remembered reading about that.
Excellent information from this post though! People noticed the difference in sound quality immediately!
Man, how could I make something so simple so complicated??
Pulled the cover down after prying with a credit card. Fine. From there, everything went to hell!
Had a HELLUVA time prying the mic out of its holder. Finally had to use a small flat-blade screwdriver and got the bugger out. Then I had an even worse time getting the connector out of the mic. Absolutely, positively would NOT come out by hand, no matter how patient I was. Finally started in very gently with a pair of needlenose, rocking it slightly. The damn connector started to come apart! I FINALLY got it out with only cosmetic damage to the connector. Then I determined that the wire wasn't long enough to fish through to the other side, and I don't have any torx driver to pull the base piece down, so with mission failed, I attempted to replace the mic into the cover in the original position, and just could NOT get it to snap back into place.. it was as if it was too big for the thing. After about 10 minutes of fiddling I managed to get it back in. SHEESH!!! And I accomplished nothing for all of my frustration.
Someday I'll have torx in hand and do it over again, but right now I'd rather just MOTOR!
__________________
'10 MCS "Jethro". All PW, aero kit, carbon black lounge leather, anthracite h/l, Cream White c/l, convenience, cold weather, xenon, rear fogs, nav, h/k sound, white turns, H&R touring cup kit, BBS LM's (aka "Let's Motor"), Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2's. '07 Z4M Coupe, bone stock.
Man, how could I make something so simple so complicated??
Pulled the cover down after prying with a credit card. Fine. From there, everything went to hell!
Had a HELLUVA time prying the mic out of its holder. Finally had to use a small flat-blade screwdriver and got the bugger out. Then I had an even worse time getting the connector out of the mic. Absolutely, positively would NOT come out by hand, no matter how patient I was. Finally started in very gently with a pair of needlenose, rocking it slightly. The damn connector started to come apart! I FINALLY got it out with only cosmetic damage to the connector. Then I determined that the wire wasn't long enough to fish through to the other side, and I don't have any torx driver to pull the base piece down, so with mission failed, I attempted to replace the mic into the cover in the original position, and just could NOT get it to snap back into place.. it was as if it was too big for the thing. After about 10 minutes of fiddling I managed to get it back in. SHEESH!!! And I accomplished nothing for all of my frustration.
Someday I'll have torx in hand and do it over again, but right now I'd rather just MOTOR!
If you have OEM tools in the rear of the car (jack, tire wrench etc.) there should be torx driver insert for the screw driver handle. Unless of course they decided to drop the tools for cost reasons. If there is a torx bit there one side should fit the screws that need removing for the project.
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08MCCS, HC/HC/Blk, 6 SPD, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, Convenience, HiFi, HC L/C - Steering Wheel - Shift Knob-Boot, - E Brake Handle-Boot, English Oak - 17" Web Spoke (R98) Painted H/C, H/C Club Member #42.
Man, how could I make something so simple so complicated??
Pulled the cover down after prying with a credit card. Fine. From there, everything went to hell!
Had a HELLUVA time prying the mic out of its holder. Finally had to use a small flat-blade screwdriver and got the bugger out. Then I had an even worse time getting the connector out of the mic. Absolutely, positively would NOT come out by hand, no matter how patient I was. Finally started in very gently with a pair of needlenose, rocking it slightly. The damn connector started to come apart! I FINALLY got it out with only cosmetic damage to the connector. Then I determined that the wire wasn't long enough to fish through to the other side, and I don't have any torx driver to pull the base piece down, so with mission failed, I attempted to replace the mic into the cover in the original position, and just could NOT get it to snap back into place.. it was as if it was too big for the thing. After about 10 minutes of fiddling I managed to get it back in. SHEESH!!! And I accomplished nothing for all of my frustration.
Someday I'll have torx in hand and do it over again, but right now I'd rather just MOTOR!
I hear you on the mic. For me, it was jammed in there real tight. Once I got it free, I pushed the mic back up in through the hole in the roof, routed it to the other hole on the left side, pulled it down, reconnected, and I was good to go. In other words, I did not need to use a torx to take anything down. All I needed to take down was the plastic cover the mic is attached to. If you have fat fingers, this may be more difficult, and following the video's instructions would work better. Good luck!
__________________ "Belle" 09 MCa PS/PS, Cold Weather Package, Front Fog Lamps, Xenon Headlamps,
Rear Fog Lamp, Center Arm Rest, Multifunction Wheel, Hi-Fi Sound System, Bluetooth/USB/iPod Adapter.
I hear you on the mic. For me, it was jammed in there real tight. Once I got it free, I pushed the mic back up in through the hole in the roof, routed it to the other hole on the left side, pulled it down, reconnected, and I was good to go. In other words, I did not need to use a torx to take anything down. All I needed to take down was the plastic cover the mic is attached to. If you have fat fingers, this may be more difficult, and following the video's instructions would work better. Good luck!
In some cars the wiring harness is tied up tight above the headliner and the inner piece needs to be removed and the wiring harness cover removed a little to make the wire long enough to reach to the other side.
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08MCCS, HC/HC/Blk, 6 SPD, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, Convenience, HiFi, HC L/C - Steering Wheel - Shift Knob-Boot, - E Brake Handle-Boot, English Oak - 17" Web Spoke (R98) Painted H/C, H/C Club Member #42.
thanks to this post, i have moved mine too...ppl say they can hear me better but i still kinda have to yell when i'm on freeway...
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S | Dark Silver
Manual | Premium+Convenience pkg | 17" Black Crown Spoke Wheels
Black Stripes on Center | JCW Rear Spoiler
2004 MB C230K SS (died on 9/23/09) | 2002 MB C230K Coupe (traded for SS) | 1994 Mazda Miata (traded for C Coupe)
I find it also helps to not have he climate control blowing out of the top vent.
__________________ "Hailey" my 09 MCS - Horizon Blue -Premium/Sports/Cold Weather Package, Bluetooth/iPod and Piano Black
Mods: Lumbar Retrofit, 4" Alta Antenna, Chrome Black Out, Craven Speed iPhone Mount, Alta Intake & AccessPort
Planned Mods: Alta Cat Back Exhaust, Oil Catch Can, JCW Steering Wheel...
I recently got my Clubman and was looking forward to this very helpful thread assisting me when or if I had to move my bluetooth to the driver side. So thanks in advance to all those for the info/ advice/videos/pics etc... This is a great community!!
Happily it's info i won't be needing after all.
Just for the record, my microphone is on the right passenger side and none of my callers using bluetooth have reported that I sound far away or bad at all. In fact every caller was surprised to hear that I was on the car speaker/bluetooth system and said i sounded like I was talking through the cell phone itself. No complaints at any speed.
I am using a Palm Pre for the record. I have also been able to use my contacts list as well through bluetooth on the stereo so that is pretty cool!
Just an observation, I have noticed a tremendous dif in the bluetooth call quality with various cell phones and also various bluetooth ear pieces as well over the years. Some are great and some not so much when it comes to bluetooth quality and price doesn't always seem to matter. Sometimes my cheaper phones or ear pieces have been better than much more expensive models. Not always though. Software seems to make a dif as well.
I wonder if the bluetooth unit now being used in the 2010 models is the same as in past years? I wonder if some phones just plain work better? Are folks still having bluetooth issues with 2010 models?
Any way, this is a just for the record post. Thanks again for all the hard work here.
__________________ MCC, NFR w/black, black bonnet stripes (finally picked up 1/6/10) cold weather, sun roof, factory roof rails w/ mini cross bars, OEM arm rest, blue tooth/usb, OEM console tray, OEM rubber boot mat, gominigo GBO, Nuvi 855.
I recently got my Clubman and was looking forward to this very helpful thread assisting me when or if I had to move my bluetooth to the driver side. So thanks in advance to all those for the info/ advice/videos/pics etc... This is a great community!!
Happily it's info i won't be needing after all.
Just for the record, my microphone is on the right passenger side and none of my callers using bluetooth have reported that I sound far away or bad at all. In fact every caller was surprised to hear that I was on the car speaker/bluetooth system and said i sounded like I was talking through the cell phone itself. No complaints at any speed.
I am using a Palm Pre for the record. I have also been able to use my contacts list as well through bluetooth on the stereo so that is pretty cool!
Just an observation, I have noticed a tremendous dif in the bluetooth call quality with various cell phones and also various bluetooth ear pieces as well over the years. Some are great and some not so much when it comes to bluetooth quality and price doesn't always seem to matter. Sometimes my cheaper phones or ear pieces have been better than much more expensive models. Not always though. Software seems to make a dif as well.
I wonder if the bluetooth unit now being used in the 2010 models is the same as in past years? I wonder if some phones just plain work better? Are folks still having bluetooth issues with 2010 models?
Any way, this is a just for the record post. Thanks again for all the hard work here.
This has been my experience as well.
People don't realise I'm using the handsfree mode in the car.
For the record, I'm using a iPhone 3GS in my 2010 Clubman Cooper S.
My better-half's 2010 Cooper was terrible. She had to lean forward and to the right, and yell for me to hear her at all when she'd use her Bluetooth feature. She finally gave up and disabled the Bluetooth on her phone, and called used it "the old fashioned way".
I went and did the mod to her MINI -- five minutes, and the only tool required was a small screwdriver to pop the plug off the mic. She just called me from the highway, and the sound quality is MUCH better. Still quite a bit of background noise at highway speeds, but no more leaning and yelling.
A big thanks to the OP and other contributors.
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2010, Black-on-Black, R56 Cooper
"Krautenküper"
I don't understand how moving the microphone can make much difference. Try this - sit in the driver's seat, face straight ahead, and look over to the 2 microphone locations. Then guesstimate the difference in distance from your mouth. It's MINIscule.
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'10 MCS "Jethro". All PW, aero kit, carbon black lounge leather, anthracite h/l, Cream White c/l, convenience, cold weather, xenon, rear fogs, nav, h/k sound, white turns, H&R touring cup kit, BBS LM's (aka "Let's Motor"), Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2's. '07 Z4M Coupe, bone stock.
I don't understand how moving the microphone can make much difference. Try this - sit in the driver's seat, face straight ahead, and look over to the 2 microphone locations. Then guesstimate the difference in distance from your mouth. It's MINIscule.
There is an inverse square rule when it comes to sound. Cut the distance from the source in half, and the sound level received is increased by four times. You don't have to make much of a distance change to get a big result. And the closer the mic is to the speaker, the more background noise that is eliminated.
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2010, Black-on-Black, R56 Cooper
"Krautenküper"
not to mention the fact that there's a little bulge that obscures the path between your mouth and the mic when it's on the passenger side. I did this mod and people I call from the car have noticed a substantial increase in cloud quality.
Somebody could make a great accessory that would really improve voice quality by installing a swing down boom of some sort that would put a microphone directly in front of the driver's mouth.
I just did this at the same time I hardwired my Valentine 1. Easy-peasy.
I really should have done it then, although when I put the V1 power cylinder thing in there, I should have planned some padding; I think I hear it rattle a tiny bit sometimes.
Why would the MIC be there? They know very well these cars are built for the US; odd. I was wondering if maybe they planned it that way, but OTOH I agree I keep repeating sentences over and over to people.
__________________ 2009 MCCS JCW Stage 1 (tuning kit). CR/CR w/ Roof Rails, Cold + Premium Packages, Black Sport Stripes, Piano Black interior, Rooster Red color line, Alpine retrofit kit w/ BOSS subwoofer in rear wheel well. Born Nov 13 2008 (week 45).
BTW, if it wasn't obvious, people should try calling yourself and recording a voicemail:
before/after mode
of yourself talking at a normal voice
with AC/Fan going, and without
and a few different speeds
__________________ 2009 MCCS JCW Stage 1 (tuning kit). CR/CR w/ Roof Rails, Cold + Premium Packages, Black Sport Stripes, Piano Black interior, Rooster Red color line, Alpine retrofit kit w/ BOSS subwoofer in rear wheel well. Born Nov 13 2008 (week 45).
"Belle" 09 MCa PS/PS, Cold Weather Package, Front Fog Lamps, Xenon Headlamps,
MCC, NFR w/black, black bonnet stripes (finally picked up 1/6/10) cold weather, sun roof, factory roof rails w/ mini cross bars, OEM arm rest, blue tooth/usb, OEM console tray, OEM rubber boot mat, gominigo GBO, Nuvi 855.
2009 MCCS JCW Stage 1 (tuning kit). CR/CR w/ Roof Rails, Cold + Premium Packages, Black Sport Stripes, Piano Black interior, Rooster Red color line, Alpine retrofit kit w/ BOSS subwoofer in rear wheel well. Born Nov 13 2008 (week 45).
