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Just wanted to give everyone a heads up that I will be at MITM this year. I don't yet have any plans as to what I'll be doing, but I will be there are as a vendor alongside DP.
I'm just hoping my MINI will make it there. A new clutch, new tires, new axle and most recently a new super charger have all been replaced all in hopes I can drive in one piece from California to Colorado, lol.
Anyone interested in a group detailing clinic?
Let me know
Richard
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
I would love to swing by and check it out! I have an '06 JCW and also own a detailing business in Denver. I travel for most of my work - just came back from two weeks in Dubai servicing three cars. But, I would love to check it out!
Thanks Heather...and to everyone that has chimed in on this thread.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
Just wanted to say that whatever you end up doing at MITM this year, we're glad you'll be there!!
-Heather
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
Driving from SC to CO will attract lots of bugs. Your expertise in removal of those bugs would be very appreciative!
I can help with that now, as it is prevention that is key for bugs!
Buy Prima Epic (from OctaneGuy... this is his thread afterall! ) and apply it before your trip. The bugs won't stick and will wash right off when you arrive at Copper. Prevention is all you need!
Another tip... touch-ups of Prima Slick will make an even tougher barrier to the bugs. Not essential, but just in case you end up with one of those monster, super-sticky bugs. Your drive is particularly long so the extra protection may prove to be a benefit.
Or, since you're going to have to clean it up anyway, a good citrus clean -Chemical Guys, etc. - will be a presoak that will allow you to pressure wash them right off.
2.) Prevent scrubbing of the bugs against the paint
As Heather said, having a good protective wax like Epic will prevent the bugs from sticking in the first place making removal far easier and potentially less damaging to your paint.
There are a number of ways you can soften the bugs. I'll rinse off as much as possible with water, then very lightly go over the bodies with my soapy wash mitt (not trying to remove the bugs on the first pass). Letting them soak for a bit, you'll find that in the next several passes with that wash mitt, the bugs will just lift away.
It's important you don't want to be rubbing the bugs into the paint and just as well, you want to make sure your mitt is free of carcasses each time you dip it into the soap bucket and reapply it to the paint to reduce the potential of scratching.
Warm water is always helpful if it's available and a wet towel placed over the toughest bugs will soften them for easy removal. But being protected in the first place is the best solution. Resorting to a pressure washer and citrus washes is fine if they are available but normally done by detailers because time is usually in short supply.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by baby blue
Driving from SC to CO will attract lots of bugs. Your expertise in removal of those bugs would be very appreciative!
Thanks Heather!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
I can help with that now, as it is prevention that is key for bugs!
Buy Prima Epic (from OctaneGuy... this is his thread afterall! ) and apply it before your trip. The bugs won't stick and will wash right off when you arrive at Copper. Prevention is all you need!
Another tip... touch-ups of Prima Slick will make an even tougher barrier to the bugs. Not essential, but just in case you end up with one of those monster, super-sticky bugs. Your drive is particularly long so the extra protection may prove to be a benefit.
Happy Motoring to Colorado!!
-Heather
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
As a detailer, guess I'm inclined to clean. My JCW gets foamed with Adams Car Wash then two bucket wash with Adams/grout sponge and dried with Uber MF drying blankets. Wheels get five minute dwell with P21s and agitation with Swissvax and Daytona wheels brushes. This would have been my regular weekly wash. From there, clayed with Swissvax Rubber Clay and ONR solution for lube. Another foaming and dry. One pass with Meg 105 on Purple Foam Wool Pad on Makitia and Flex rotaries. Two passes of Megs 205 w Uber blue 5.5 on Makita and Flex rotaries. IPA wipedown then Swissvax Prewax Cleaner. Then four coats of hand applied Swissvax Crystal Rock. I would venture there's not a better prep'd Mini on the road. But, bugs still need to be properly removed. Slapping on an LSP is not going to negate having to remove them!
Quote:
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
For removing bug carcasses, you want to:
1.) Soften the sticky "glued on" mess.
2.) Prevent scrubbing of the bugs against the paint
As Heather said, having a good protective wax like Epic will prevent the bugs from sticking in the first place making removal far easier and potentially less damaging to your paint.
There are a number of ways you can soften the bugs. I'll rinse off as much as possible with water, then very lightly go over the bodies with my soapy wash mitt (not trying to remove the bugs on the first pass). Letting them soak for a bit, you'll find that in the next several passes with that wash mitt, the bugs will just lift away.
It's important you don't want to be rubbing the bugs into the paint and just as well, you want to make sure your mitt is free of carcasses each time you dip it into the soap bucket and reapply it to the paint to reduce the potential of scratching.
Warm water is always helpful if it's available and a wet towel placed over the toughest bugs will soften them for easy removal. But being protected in the first place is the best solution. Resorting to a pressure washer and citrus washes is fine if they are available but normally done by detailers because time is usually in short supply.
On particularly nasty baked in bugs I picked up some of the Wizard's bug removal from DP. Honestly only needed to use it once. Prevention with Epic seems to take care of most bug stuff using the methods you outline.
Your suggestion of placing wet cloth over to soften sounds less wearing on the Prima. Thanks!
__________________ Tim Shackelford & 'Augie'
07' MCS Chili Red with lotsa mods and more on the way......
Wow -- My friends think I'm crazy but Denver JCW beats anything I've ever even thought of doing. How about I just pay you when I get there and you can clean my baby? I love my car but I prefer driving her to cleaning her!
__________________
"Baby Blue" 2008 Lightening Blue MCS Cabrio Convenience, Cold Weather, Premium, Sport packages. Mods -- DDM CAI, WMW 17% pulley, M7 Strut, M7 Oil Catch Can, WMW X brace and Hotchkis Rear Sway. Viper Stripes and clear bra.
I'm not trying to bash your process here, but since you spoke about it, I'd like to comment on it.
I'm not a fan of foam cannons, though they are mighty impressive to customers seeing the cars covered in foam.
If you're washing your JCW weekly, I'd imagine that you probably wouldn't have to clay your ride very often, unless it's sitting outdoors all the time. Again, I'm not a fan of washing the paint after claying.
Are you a customer of Detailers Domain? Just curious.
Also having to use M105 and M205 on your carefully cared for paint seems a bit excessive. If you're taking care of your paint by using the cannon and other methods, polishing should be an absolute minimum especially with M105.
I realize as detailers, we like to "impress" people with our product knowledge and toolset, but really, your process seems a bit over the top for your personal ride.
For my customers cars that I maintain, balancing the need for paint removal correction versus seeking absolute paint perfection to prolong the integrity of the paint is something that I stress very highly since most car owners don't have a clue to what's really being done to their paint.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverJCW
As a detailer, guess I'm inclined to clean. My JCW gets foamed with Adams Car Wash then two bucket wash with Adams/grout sponge and dried with Uber MF drying blankets. Wheels get five minute dwell with P21s and agitation with Swissvax and Daytona wheels brushes. This would have been my regular weekly wash. From there, clayed with Swissvax Rubber Clay and ONR solution for lube. Another foaming and dry. One pass with Meg 105 on Purple Foam Wool Pad on Makitia and Flex rotaries. Two passes of Megs 205 w Uber blue 5.5 on Makita and Flex rotaries. IPA wipedown then Swissvax Prewax Cleaner. Then four coats of hand applied Swissvax Crystal Rock. I would venture there's not a better prep'd Mini on the road. But, bugs still need to be properly removed. Slapping on an LSP is not going to negate having to remove them!
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
The process I covered was the process I undertook when I brought the car home. It does receive a weekly wash (when driven) and, I do use a foam cannon after being out in the hills - when I get the chance to drive it. If I am servicing a car in Colorado and I am driving my Sprinter to the client's home, I use the cannon. If I am travelling, obviously I don't. I was actually in Orange County last month to service a client's F40 and, no cannon. I guess I wouldn't consider 105 a polish as much as I would 205. And, I bought my JCW brand new and the paint was about as impressive as a new 599 - not too impressive at all. So, it needed correction as do most Minis I see. I'm a bit surprised to hear you say that most of your clients - guess you actually think of them as "Customers" - don't know what you are doing to their cars. If I am going to ask a client to hand over $3500.00+ travel expenses, I've always worked on the assumption that they are going to want to hear my assessment of the finish: PTM (I always provide before and after printouts to clients), Sun Gun, etc. as well as receiving pics - before, 50/50 and after. Further, for referral sake, I've always taken the time to educate clients as to how to best care for their finish afterwards. The last thing I want is to have spent a week working a finish only to find the client washing with a beach towel. As I'm sure you are aware, not many people are willing to hand over their million dollar garage queen to someone they've gotten from the Yellow Pages. So, if they do wash and dry with a beach towel, when they are out and about, my name is all over that car as having completed the last paint correction.
And, no, I puchase my Swissvax products elsewhere. Use to use Vintage but, as you know, once they find out you're using it for commercial use, you're done!
But, I do know Phil!
Quote:
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
Hey DenverJCW,
I'm not trying to bash your process here, but since you spoke about it, I'd like to comment on it.
I'm not a fan of foam cannons, though they are mighty impressive to customers seeing the cars covered in foam.
If you're washing your JCW weekly, I'd imagine that you probably wouldn't have to clay your ride very often, unless it's sitting outdoors all the time. Again, I'm not a fan of washing the paint after claying.
Are you a customer of Detailers Domain? Just curious.
Also having to use M105 and M205 on your carefully cared for paint seems a bit excessive. If you're taking care of your paint by using the cannon and other methods, polishing should be an absolute minimum especially with M105.
I realize as detailers, we like to "impress" people with our product knowledge and toolset, but really, your process seems a bit over the top for your personal ride.
For my customers cars that I maintain, balancing the need for paint removal correction versus seeking absolute paint perfection to prolong the integrity of the paint is something that I stress very highly since most car owners don't have a clue to what's really being done to their paint.
Well, I'm going to head up. Thinking of bringing the Mini but, might bring my van instead or maybe follow the other half. Be happy to wash a line of Minis! I live south of Dnever, in a area known as Castle Pines Village. So, it's a pretty short haul for me compared to some of you on the Forum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baby blue
Wow -- My friends think I'm crazy but Denver JCW beats anything I've ever even thought of doing. How about I just pay you when I get there and you can clean my baby? I love my car but I prefer driving her to cleaning her!
Phil's a bud of mine..you use all the products he sells, so I thought maybe you were, oh well...you might consider supporting him.
I consider 105 a compound. It was originally intended to be used with a wool pad, though I know people use it with foam. 205 is the successor to 105, so whether you call it a polish or not, I guess it depends what you call a compound?
I provide the same education but my "client" base tends to be enthusiasts and real world people with budgets that spend $400-$800 for my restores. I like these customers. They tend to drive their cars and care about them more than the wealthiest of owners with garage queens.
Congrats on getting top dollar for your work. I'm sure it's worth every cent, as I know my work is undervalued for what I offer.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverJCW
The process I covered was the process I undertook when I brought the car home. It does receive a weekly wash (when driven) and, I do use a foam cannon after being out in the hills - when I get the chance to drive it. If I am servicing a car in Colorado and I am driving my Sprinter to the client's home, I use the cannon. If I am travelling, obviously I don't. I was actually in Orange County last month to service a client's F40 and, no cannon. I guess I wouldn't consider 105 a polish as much as I would 205. And, I bought my JCW brand new and the paint was about as impressive as a new 599 - not too impressive at all. So, it needed correction as do most Minis I see. I'm a bit surprised to hear you say that most of your clients - guess you actually think of them as "Customers" - don't know what you are doing to their cars. If I am going to ask a client to hand over $3500.00+ travel expenses, I've always worked on the assumption that they are going to want to hear my assessment of the finish: PTM (I always provide before and after printouts to clients), Sun Gun, etc. as well as receiving pics - before, 50/50 and after. Further, for referral sake, I've always taken the time to educate clients as to how to best care for their finish afterwards. The last thing I want is to have spent a week working a finish only to find the client washing with a beach towel. As I'm sure you are aware, not many people are willing to hand over their million dollar garage queen to someone they've gotten from the Yellow Pages. So, if they do wash and dry with a beach towel, when they are out and about, my name is all over that car as having completed the last paint correction.
And, no, I puchase my Swissvax products elsewhere. Use to use Vintage but, as you know, once they find out you're using it for commercial use, you're done!
But, I do know Phil!
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
Yeah, I too would call 105 a compound; 205 more of a polish. Other than my personal cars, I don't use megs much other than 105 when needing something a tad aggressive. I tend to lean toward Menzerna products for polish. And, I'm not a fan of wool pads - again, if I can avoid them. I would spend time on cars than most because, like you, I don't like using a compound, if I can avoid it. I prefer to level vs. remove. And, I'm familiar with your work. I think you worked on formulating or distributing Black WOW, no? I've purchased brushes, etc. from Phil. I can, however, pick up Crystal Rock and Mystery elsewhere for less $!
Quote:
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
Phil's a bud of mine..you use all the products he sells, so I thought maybe you were, oh well...you might consider supporting him.
I consider 105 a compound. It was originally intended to be used with a wool pad, though I know people use it with foam. 205 is the successor to 105, so whether you call it a polish or not, I guess it depends what you call a compound?
I provide the same education but my "client" base tends to be enthusiasts and real world people with budgets that spend $400-$800 for my restores. I like these customers. They tend to drive their cars and care about them more than the wealthiest of owners with garage queens.
Congrats on getting top dollar for your work. I'm sure it's worth every cent, as I know my work is undervalued for what I offer.
Yeah I invented and manufacture BW. My father formulated it. I'm not a fan of Menzerna...for me, as long as I get the results I seek and the chemicals I use don't hinder that goal, that's what I'm going to use.
I used to use a lot of Meguiar's Professional chemicals, until I discovered Prima worked so much better. A lot more capable and user friendly. A lot of my students use Menzerna but it really comes down technique and experience level.
I only use wool when I'm removing sanding marks either after painting, or for spot correction. Wool is great for removing lots of paint without heating it up .
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverJCW
Yeah, I too would call 105 a compound; 205 more of a polish. Other than my personal cars, I don't use megs much other than 105 when needing something a tad aggressive. I tend to lean toward Menzerna products for polish. And, I'm not a fan of wool pads - again, if I can avoid them. I would spend time on cars than most because, like you, I don't like using a compound, if I can avoid it. I prefer to level vs. remove. And, I'm familiar with your work. I think you worked on formulating or distributing Black WOW, no? I've purchased brushes, etc. from Phil. I can, however, pick up Crystal Rock and Mystery elsewhere for less $!
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa