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I have a 2005 DS/B MCS (12/04 production). It has about 62,000 miles on it. A friend and I were on a road trip through west Texas and, Friday evening, we were driving from Carlsbad, NM towards San Antonio to meet up for Wurstfest in New Braunfels.
We had just passed through Junction and were cruising along I-10 at just over 70mph (I had it on cruise control). The car went into "limp" mode and I had to pull over into a picnic area (thankfully we were just about to pass one).
The engine was running (a bit roughly, though), but nothing happened when I stepped on the gas. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light and the EML light (I call it the Extra Money Light) had both come on. I turned off the car and turned it back on. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was still on but the EML light had gone off. So, I tested the gas and the engine revved... I thought everything was alright.
I gradually accelerated in the break-down lane and just as I hit about 20mph, the car went into limp mode again, and the EML light came back on. I tried this a couple of more times and got the same result. I detected a slight burning rubber smell from the back end (but not the engine) of the car. I was about 110 miles west of MINI of San Antonio. I ended up having it towed there for about $300. I showed up at MINI of SA early that (Saturday) morning and got it all set up for them to check it out.
Well, they were real busy that day and didn't get a chance to look at it until sometime after lunch. We got the call that they had discovered that it was some faulty fuel sensor/sender and would cost about $400 (parts & labor) to repair.
I was ecstatic because I had visions of thousands of dollars flying out of my wallet.
We showed up back at MINI of SA around 4pm and cooled our heels until the service advisor came over and told us that it wasn't the fuel sensor/sender after all. (Apparently, the tech had taken it out on a test drive after replacing this part and the car still went into limp mode.) By that time, the dealership was closing and we had to stay over in San Antonio until Monday when they re-opened.
I would've rather not done this, but due to the Veterans' Day holiday, I lucked out in that I didn't have to report to the office on Monday. However, I am troubled on a couple of different accounts.
First, I never like it when the dealer -- an expert -- tells me that they don't know what's wrong with the car. It doesn't inspire confidence in mean that they are able to repair the problem.
Second, I don't have the means to underwrite a fishing expedition of repairs. I know their shop rate is $100/hour and it's going to ruin me if I have to shell out for any kind of extended diagnostic.
So, have any of y'all out there heard anything about this? I was worrying a bit that, when I had filled up with gas in New Mexico, the best they had was 90 octane, so I put a cannister of octane booster in the full tank. (The owner's manual says, of course, use 91 octane or better.) I thought that this might have caused some problems. Maybe the catalytic converter got too hot and melted or, hell, I don't know... it could be anything.
I would appreciate hearing for anyone out there who might have some guesses. If I can "guide" the service tech, it will help me to get out of town and back home on Monday.
justin l.
__________________ Motoring ID: FUEL001 Lone Star MINI "Philosophy is the knowledge of that which exists, and a clear understanding of the truth; and happiness is the reward of such knowledge and understanding." (Saint Justin, Dialogue with Trypho, 3).
I have 2 suggestions: 1. post this in the Texas local section, and 2.ask the dealer for the local MINI club business card or contact. Our dealership in So Cal keeps some of that on hand.
Good luck!
Oops, just realized that's where you DID post! Sorry. I looked at the new posts.
Best luck!
__________________ PEPPER WHITE PEERAGE # 762
SCOOP! 07 MCS PW/PW Chrome Exterior/Driving lights/Sport pack & suspension/English Oak & Chrome Interior/Black Leatherette. Ordered 7/17 Born 8/2/07. Tagus 8/12-8/30 Pt. Hueneme. Home 9/12 :)
I have 2 suggestions: 1. post this in the Texas local section, and 2.ask the dealer for the local MINI club business card or contact. Our dealership in So Cal keeps some of that on hand.
Good luck!
Oops, just realized that's where you DID post! Sorry. I looked at the new posts.
Best luck!
Posting as the friend on this trip with the Mouse (I am on my second MINI myself): Thanks for the reply. We are both very active in the MetroplexMINI club and know many MINI owners around the state.
I think OHM's request wasn't for local contacts, but for someone who might have had a similar problem and might be able to steer us toward possible solutions....
Fortunately, I have a good friend here who rescued us, has put us up for a few days and even loaned us a vehicle to drive. After a weeklong trip through west Texas, we are just eager to get the car fixed and get back home....
I spoke with Jesse, the tech here a MINI of SA, and he said there's only one code coming off of the car -- P1688 Electronic Throttle Monitor. That could be, apparently, one of three things:
(1) Supercharger by-pass valve failure;
(2) Air leak; or
(3) MAP sensor fault.
The part they replaced on Saturday was the by-pass valve and they discovered that this was not the problem. Jesse seemed to indicate that they were hoping for an air leak. They were going to "smoke" the system and see what they could find. They're also going to jack it up and check the harmonic balancers.
justin l.
__________________ Motoring ID: FUEL001 Lone Star MINI "Philosophy is the knowledge of that which exists, and a clear understanding of the truth; and happiness is the reward of such knowledge and understanding." (Saint Justin, Dialogue with Trypho, 3).
it sounds like what my car was doing when it had the MAP sensors go bad.
it will let you get started again but if you touch 3000rpm it goes into limp.
There are two of them on the S. they are about 40 bucks each and are easily replaced with a screw driver.
__________________
springs, rear sway bar, front swaybar, big front brakes, pulley, CAI, B&B exaust, Jackson header, camber plates, rear lower adjustable control arms, Schrick cam, RMW tune, DFIC, SSR GT1's with NT-01's for the track. superleggera's with NT-O1's for the track. Kosei K-1's for daily drivingand now another set of K1's with hoosiers. Safe Driving instructor,SRT instructor, NASA instructor, Tarheel BMW instructor. A student again.
it sounds like what my car was doing when it had the MAP sensors go bad.
it will let you get started again but if you touch 3000rpm it goes into limp.
There are two of them on the S. they are about 40 bucks each and are easily replaced with a screw driver.
Recently, I had been getting a P2096 error code which was a "post catalytic fuel trim too lean, bank 1" message. Turns out that the bank 1 O2 sensor had gone bad, but one of the other possible problems was an air/vacuum leak in the system. I am beginning to wonder if maybe there was an air/vacuum leak in addition to the O2 sensor having gone bad.
justin l.
__________________ Motoring ID: FUEL001 Lone Star MINI "Philosophy is the knowledge of that which exists, and a clear understanding of the truth; and happiness is the reward of such knowledge and understanding." (Saint Justin, Dialogue with Trypho, 3).
See my post about trip interruption benefits in the other thread.
__________________ Disclaimer: No claim is made that the quality of the MINI-related advice offered by Yucca Patrol
is greater than the quality of MINI-related advice offered by other NAM members.
Turns out that it was the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft pulley that was deformed somehow so that it didn't grip the belt properly.
I told this to a friend of mine and they wanted to know why I had a deformed crank.
justin l.
__________________ Motoring ID: FUEL001 Lone Star MINI "Philosophy is the knowledge of that which exists, and a clear understanding of the truth; and happiness is the reward of such knowledge and understanding." (Saint Justin, Dialogue with Trypho, 3).
PEPPER WHITE PEERAGE # 762
