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I'm curious to know how they are holding up so far. Any issues that stand out from the '11-12 CM MCS that still arise in the '13 CM JCW? Also, anyone pull two jet skis? If so, what tow hitch are you using? Thanks.
Last edited by RobMuntean; 09-09-2014 at 02:39 PM.
I think mine has held up well. I've got 16,000 (ish) miles on it and no problems. Did have a bad injector replaced early on, and I need to get a new set of tires. The tires are probably my fault though
I've also had to have the sun roof adjusted a couple of times. Seems they didn't come from the factor adjusted to reduce noise at 80 .
I don't tow with it though, I have a truck that pulls boat duty.
I'm at 16 000 km with mine. Nothing to mention, besides all 4 disks and pads that were changed at the beginning of this summer (with about 12 months of use) because of rust build up and grinding noise when coming to a stop.
26K and running Strong. still on 1st clutch. Averaging about 26mpg, but I always start out floor, clutch, floor until I hit 65 MPH, which is pretty hard on MPG.
I had stopped by dealership at 38,000 for my original 2014 clutch sounding like a tired Chewbacca while downshifting from high into second. They could not replicate sound--but I left with new front brakes. Fast forward three months, I stopped by dealership again this week to check my clutch which is now chattering while trying to engage in first gear (45,000 miles). They replicated chatter and removed clutch to find it was worn to rivets and flywheel had a large burn spot and heat cracks (and no, I do not drive it hard) but they replaced clutch /flywheel/ oil/ micro filter /spark plugs/ rear brakes. Good thing I had the Mini 100,000 extended maintenance warranty which now has more than paid for itself!
I find it interesting that my Honda has 164,000 miles on the original clutch! Yet, I did not even make it to the Mini scheduled maintenance calling for a clutch at 60,000.
Haven't had an issue yet with the exception of a recall for the front axel nuts. This necessitated the replacement of one of the front shafts, which I was totally fine with. It took care of a clicking noise coming from the front end under heavy acceleration, or when transitioning from reverse to drive.
Some notes:
1. Get a belly pan from ECS. Your intake air temperatures (IAT) will be 8-10 degrees (Fahrenheit) above outside air temp (OAT) without it. With the pan installed, IAT runs around 3-5 degrees above and there is a appreciable reduction in road noise. Not to mention an increase in fuel economy.
Why Mini (as noted by ECS on the product page) decided not to install these on the USDM JCW Countryman is beyond me.
2. Venting crankcase pressure to the turbo inlet is a stupid idea. Get a baffled catch can. Mishimoto, M7, ECS, and a pile of other people have them and they will fit your car with some fiddling.
3. The factory turbo heat shield is an adventure in pain, swearing, agony, bleeding, and reinstalling screws blind and in the most uncomfortable position possible. If you decide to pull it off, be prepared to return from your quest appearing as though you got into a fight with a cat. And yes, the O2 sensor must come off. No matter how much pleading to whatever deity you believe in will help.
Other than that, zero problems - or at least no problems that weren't self-induced.
For those of you considering aftermarket exhaust (at least from Megan Racing,) a word of caution. You are going to have a hell of a time getting the muffler and pipes aligned. (I'll post some pictures when I have the car on jacks again this weekend.)
There are two chrome tips bolted to brackets that secure the rear splitter in place. The chrome tips and the brackets are secured with three bolts each. Getting the tips out without completely removing the rear splitter will require you to either cut off or bend one of the three tabs on the chrome tips inside the tube, so that it will not interfere with it coming out of the hole.
The brackets are a different story. At least in the case of the Megan Racing muffler, you will ABSOLUTELY need access to a cutting wheel, bench grinder, primer, and paint. (I used black high-temp engine paint in this case.) The holes for the stock muffler are too small to admit the tips from the Megan muffler. Furthermore, once the muffler is in place the brackets will not allow you to mount the thing centered in the rear splitter holes until you cut a good amount away to make room.
When they tell you that welding and professional installation are required, they aren't kidding. Not a job for the faint of heart.
I wound up needing to cut a fairly large part out of the brackets to allow the muffler to align while still retaining the support structure for the rear diffuser. I didn't take pictures of the original, but I am certain I can dig up a blueprint of one somewhere for comparison for the modifications on mine.
Next are intercooler replacements. I purchased a Wagner Tuning intercooler from M7, if you look at the Wagner (M7 Tuning Link) notice the two fork-shaped tabs at the bottom and the lack of as much on top.
The stock intercooler on the JCW mounts to the vehicle via rubber isolators inside these forks. The fact that the Wagner intercooler does not have these upper forks isn't a problem, as the instructions tell you to "drill a hole through the cross member and then mount the upper tab using the supplied hardware."
At least on my 2015, there is no such cross member. Solution in this case was to take a piece of aircraft-grade aluminum bar (7/16" diameter, in case anyone is curious, and don't ask why I have this sort of think laying around,) cut it into a 5" length, drill and tap both ends, punch a hole (WIT MA FIST OF FURY) in the front bumper (the metal bit, not the external plastic,) and then put allen bolts and lock washers to hold it together. Doesn't seem to have issues as yet.
Here she sits as of about a month ago. This is without wheel studs, intercooler, and exhaust - none of which you could probably see from this angle anyway. Meh.
Mods so far: NM Engineering springs / 22mm swaybar / intake / charge pipe / discharge pipe / wheel studs, ECS Engineering belly pan, M7 catch can / front tower strut brace, Forge recirculation valve, Megan Racing exhaust.
Last edited by Levers_and_Gears; 09-28-2015 at 03:50 PM.
Reason: Forgot picture!
Haven't had an issue yet with the exception of a recall for the front axel nuts. This necessitated the replacement of one of the front shafts, which I was totally fine with. It took care of a clicking noise coming from the front end under heavy acceleration, or when transitioning from reverse to drive.
Some notes:
1. Get a belly pan from ECS. Your intake air temperatures (IAT) will be 8-10 degrees (Fahrenheit) above outside air temp (OAT) without it. With the pan installed, IAT runs around 3-5 degrees above and there is a appreciable reduction in road noise. Not to mention an increase in fuel economy.
Why Mini (as noted by ECS on the product page) decided not to install these on the USDM JCW Countryman is beyond me.
2. Venting crankcase pressure to the turbo inlet is a stupid idea. Get a baffled catch can. Mishimoto, M7, ECS, and a pile of other people have them and they will fit your car with some fiddling.
3. The factory turbo heat shield is an adventure in pain, swearing, agony, bleeding, and reinstalling screws blind and in the most uncomfortable position possible. If you decide to pull it off, be prepared to return from your quest appearing as though you got into a fight with a cat. And yes, the O2 sensor must come off. No matter how much pleading to whatever deity you believe in will help.
Other than that, zero problems - or at least no problems that weren't self-induced.
For those of you considering aftermarket exhaust (at least from Megan Racing,) a word of caution. You are going to have a hell of a time getting the muffler and pipes aligned. (I'll post some pictures when I have the car on jacks again this weekend.)
There are two chrome tips bolted to brackets that secure the rear splitter in place. The chrome tips and the brackets are secured with three bolts each. Getting the tips out without completely removing the rear splitter will require you to either cut off or bend one of the three tabs on the chrome tips inside the tube, so that it will not interfere with it coming out of the hole.
The brackets are a different story. At least in the case of the Megan Racing muffler, you will ABSOLUTELY need access to a cutting wheel, bench grinder, primer, and paint. (I used black high-temp engine paint in this case.) The holes for the stock muffler are too small to admit the tips from the Megan muffler. Furthermore, once the muffler is in place the brackets will not allow you to mount the thing centered in the rear splitter holes until you cut a good amount away to make room.
When they tell you that welding and professional installation are required, they aren't kidding. Not a job for the faint of heart.
I wound up needing to cut a fairly large part out of the brackets to allow the muffler to align while still retaining the support structure for the rear diffuser. I didn't take pictures of the original, but I am certain I can dig up a blueprint of one somewhere for comparison for the modifications on mine.
Next are intercooler replacements. I purchased a Wagner Tuning intercooler from M7, if you look at the Wagner (M7 Tuning Link) notice the two fork-shaped tabs at the bottom and the lack of as much on top.
The stock intercooler on the JCW mounts to the vehicle via rubber isolators inside these forks. The fact that the Wagner intercooler does not have these upper forks isn't a problem, as the instructions tell you to "drill a hole through the cross member and then mount the upper tab using the supplied hardware."
At least on my 2015, there is no such cross member. Solution in this case was to take a piece of aircraft-grade aluminum bar (7/16" diameter, in case anyone is curious, and don't ask why I have this sort of think laying around,) cut it into a 5" length, drill and tap both ends, punch a hole (WIT MA FIST OF FURY) in the front bumper (the metal bit, not the external plastic,) and then put allen bolts and lock washers to hold it together. Doesn't seem to have issues as yet.
Here she sits as of about a month ago. This is without wheel studs, intercooler, and exhaust - none of which you could probably see from this angle anyway. Meh.
Looks very nice, yes the JCW CM should have came with the belly pan stock. Think it was moved out at the last minute for cost or something. Thanks for the info on the IAT measured in real world.
Things are good, but the AC is very weak and my driver seat raises up 1-5 positions, in as little as 15 minutes.
I'm stage II, with Megan Coilovers and NM 19 wheels
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
__________________ 2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
26K and running Strong. still on 1st clutch. Averaging about 26mpg, but I always start out floor, clutch, floor until I hit 65 MPH, which is pretty hard on MPG.
Originally Posted by ECSTuning
We need some Countrman JCW Pics in this thread.
My wife's CM and Mine Hardtop we both Love them. Just swapped tires from RF to Conti on CM huge difference
This thread has gotten old at this point, but I wanted to check in.
I am still infatuated with this car. Had the first clutch replaced at 59,000 miles. Other than that it has only had routine maintenance, couple of broken windshields, and tires (lots of tires).
09-27-2014, 08:28 AM
2015 JCW and Modding Notes
