Thanks for the response!

 

We have them here:

The nuts set currenlty will have to come from overseas, but are available.

#11 Set of Shoulder Nuts (4pk): PN 82792354857

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/82792354857/



#5 Torque Wrench 6NM 5mm: PN 82722230149

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/82722230149/







Thanks and hope that helps.

 

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Just spoke with Penske Parts, www.penskeparts.com (Inskip MINI in Rhode Island). From what they told me the nuts are not in stock at the North American Warehouse. They would have to be ordered from Germany.

If you contact them they will order the parts for you. Their cost is about $22.00 USD. But you would still have to pay for shipping and that would probably cost you about $20-25 unfortunately.

So maybe call your local dealer and ask them to special order them, or get them from the guys at ECS.

Others have also found regular nuts that will fit the threads and used a washer behind it.

 

I've read through a good portion of the latter part of this thread. I have one question. Is the 2013 Hardtop S set up for this? I ask because, man, I can't see any evidence of perforation in the rain gutter seal. I looked. Then I read posts where people say it's not obvious. Then I looked again and couldn't see it. Then I read posts where people say it's really, really hard to see. Then I looked again. Every angle. Lifted up the edge to look around. Just can't find it. And I'm assuming without knowing exactly where to put it, it might damage the roof in some way if put in the wrong spot.

If it helps, for those who have done it, can you measure an exact length from, say, the read edge of the door window?

Thanks,
Mike Todd

 

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The perforation is really a perforation but just little vertical imprints on the rubber as it lays up against the top. As I recall the front is like 4 5/8 in. I'd you have the install instructions I believe the measurements are there. Lighting is everything when you are looking.

 

there's a post earlier in this thread with all of the measurements.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3387716

 

I agree. Lighting is everything. This might help...

 

Very good explanation for installation of your rack can be found here: http://turn17.com/?p=261

The cutouts are located at 9.25 inches and 36.25 inches as measured from the back of the post at top left of the driver side windows and top right of the passengers. They are 2.25 inches long.
The easiest part to see on my Mini were the vertical lines ( | ) on both sides of the cutout. These two lines are on the piece of rubber immediately adjacent to the roof. This is the part of the rubber that you slide the card behind.

Having found that I could then see the lines in the bottom of the rain gutter
( _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ) Slide the plastic card behind the rubber and use tweezers to pick the rubber up and away from the card and roof. I found it easier to use the tweezers to pick up the rubber and then used needle nosed pliers to remove the cutout. You will then have to use either one to remove the corners that did not come out with the rest of the cutout.

Now, if only I had not stripped one of my nuts....My rack would be on. Going to do the nut with washer fix posted here.

 

MINI Crossbar
Cabela's Carrier
4 Hella 500s Lamps + 4 MINI Lamps = 8 Off-Road lights
Headlamps
Fog Lights

 

Another view from the rear

 

Side view

 

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Can you guys tell me if I installed this right. Do I need to push it in the rain gutter more? Although it seems like I've pushed far in enough. Any thoughts?

 

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I'm probably just over thinking the install. I pulled on the rack with lots of force without movement so I think it should be pretty secure. Thanks man

 

kdotv23, looks good, that's as far it will probably go.

 

thanks for the input. nice to have some reassurance. I was gonna take them off again just in case

 

I take mine off and on all the time. In fact, when I do I take it off and put it back on as a unit - towers connected to the cross bars. Never have had any problems but you get good at taking it off and on doing it as much as I do.

 

The designer of this mechanism should be sent to remedial engineering 101. And should be forced to take one of these off and put it back on once per day, for the rest of their life. This is rpobably the single worst design I have ever come across. 1000 easy ways to do this better. I hope they fired this person. Rant off.

 

just as BMC Kid does i take mine on and off all the time. In the 8 years i have owned mine it has been on and off the car at least 800 times and i have NEVER NEVER NEVER stripped a brass nut or had any problem geting them on or off. In fact I can put both rakes on the car correctly in less than 3 minutes. Those that have problems putting it on or striping nuts just dont have them set up properly to begin with. The first time they go on the car there are screws on the underside of the rails that have to be lossened just enough (1/2 - 3/4 turn) to allow the mounting brakets and rails to slide against each other and then once the brackets are tight and mounted then the bolts connecting the rails and brakets need to be tightened and never touched again. After that is done they are easy to take on and off. I have helped many people up here in new england get the racks seg up properly when thier dealers could not and all of these people take them on and off regularly. If done correctly they should be easy on easy off.

 

havent had any problems with mine either, goes on and off couple times a month usually - my bike rack stays on the cross bars and i put it on the car as one piece. I made some tabs out of 3/16x1" stainless stock, drilled and tapped to attach it.... hated the "clamping" style mounts

 

Looks fine, if the two halves were touching, there would be no room to tighten if wear occurs.

 

Sorry to bump an ancient thread... anybody have tips on installing the rain gutter caps?

I took the rack off my R56 since ski season isn't coming this year, but apparently I'm either too weak and pathetic to get the caps in or I'm doing it wrong. One side goes in, but then the other side won't move. I'm pretty sure the plastic lip is supposed to face up, but I've tried it both ways and failed.