Matching factory gauges

[AA-MCS]

Got mine installed last Friday and couldn’t be happier with my first mod.

The diming issue is not a problem for me since I don’t usually mess with the dimmer settings and full bright doesn’t bother me. My installer, at his suggestion, connected the white lights for day driving and the amber for night driving (if I try and dim the amber it just switches to white).

I have noticed the vibrating needle issue and thanks to those that posted a fix, I will do so if/when it starts to get bothersome.

Many thanks to Steve for his effort; I only wish I could have gone to his shop for the install as a way to repay him.

FYI, the gauges are oriented in such a way that the needle will point to about the 12 O'Clock direction when operating at its expected normal range.

[Mike S]

Looking good! I can't wait until mine arrives!

[Tron Chief]

I started with two gauges, now thinking I might need more

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by KurTecH

so i own the oil pressure and boost guage so far and plan on getting oil temp and water temp soon as well. this might be a stupid question, but would the oil pressure sending unit work as a oil temperature sending unit as well? i only ask since there are 2 contacts on the back, only 1 of which is used for pressure read-out. if not, how would one install a pressure and temperature sending unit?

The oil temp sending unit will fit the tapless adapter, but is there enough room down there for the sending unit? It's a lot smaller than the oil pressure sender so there is a chance. Otherwise, I think you would need to weld a bung onto the oil pan and thread it for the sender. Maybe somebody else has an idea?

Steve

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by Tron Chief

I started with two gauges, now thinking I might need more

I'm thinking we need to test the oil pressure and oil temp sending units on your MINI to see if both can fit at the same time. Maybe we'll actually attach gauges to them, too.

Steve

[Gil-galad]

Instead of putting up Christmas decorations today [ ] I decided to try and finish off the installation of my new stepper gauges (oil pres and water temp). Here's a clip of the result. The engine was already warm when I took this. I cycled through start up, turning on the lights, revved the engine to see the oil pressure response, turning off the lights, and shut down:



I wired the lights from the left front side marker light and used a relay to isolate the circuit (thanks a million to Marty for the wiring guidance with the relay). I used the Marshall dimmer and located it on the right rear of my Euro Parcel Shelf...here's a pic:



Steve, thanks for all of the hard work putting this together. I'm very happy with the result.

[meh]

Originally Posted by Gil-galad

I used the Marshall dimmer and located it on the right rear side of my Euro Parcel Shelf...here's a pic:

Nice install Gary and a great place to put the dimmer; I just might have to put one there...

[bearcat245]

I finally got around to wiring my Marshall boost gauge using the Alta Performance instructions. No joy.
I suspect I need to tweak my "T" connects, but feel I miss read the install.
I connected the "orange" wire and the "white" wire to the lighter. I also originally didn't connect the "Red" wire, but when first try failed I saw that "Red" needed to go to the OBDII hot line.
It had no effect.
I am not great with wiring, but I give it a go and do have gauge working.
Thanks for the "Cotton" solution. I thought I had a bad gauge chattering away.
I will contact Steve for a dimmer switch, but can any one point me to better wiring instructions?
Update......when door is opened and interior light go on, the gauge did have lights.
Thanks

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by bearcat245

I finally got around to wiring my Marshall boost gauge using the Alta Performance instructions. No joy.
I suspect I need to tweak my "T" connects, but feel I miss read the install.
I connected the "orange" wire and the "white" wire to the lighter. I also originally didn't connect the "Red" wire, but when first try failed I saw that "Red" needed to go to the OBDII hot line.
It had no effect.
I am not great with wiring, but I give it a go and do have gauge working.
Thanks for the "Cotton" solution. I thought I had a bad gauge chattering away.
I will contact Steve for a dimmer switch, but can any one point me to better wiring instructions?
Update......when door is opened and interior light go on, the gauge did have lights.
Thanks

You should only need the dimmer circuit from the car to light the boost gauge and not the dimmer switch from Marshall. I'll try to get Tron Chief to post his connections points on his R56.

Steve

[joe_bfstplk]

Hi all--
I just want to double-check to ensure that I didn't mis-read the info in this thread.

I am planning to get these for my '03 R53:

• Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (mechanical)
• Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (electric)

The special dimmer thingie is only required for the stepper gauges, so both of these should work fine from the car's stock dimmer circuit, right?

Thanks!

C ya,
Dutch

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by joe_bfstplk

Hi all--
I just want to double-check to ensure that I didn't mis-read the info in this thread.

I am planning to get these for my '03 R53:

• Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (mechanical)
• Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (electric)

The special dimmer thingie is only required for the stepper gauges, so both of these should work fine from the car's stock dimmer circuit, right?

Thanks!

C ya,
Dutch

Correct.

Steve

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by bearcat245

I finally got around to wiring my Marshall boost gauge using the Alta Performance instructions. No joy.
I suspect I need to tweak my "T" connects, but feel I miss read the install.
I connected the "orange" wire and the "white" wire to the lighter. I also originally didn't connect the "Red" wire, but when first try failed I saw that "Red" needed to go to the OBDII hot line.
It had no effect.
I am not great with wiring, but I give it a go and do have gauge working.
Thanks for the "Cotton" solution. I thought I had a bad gauge chattering away.
I will contact Steve for a dimmer switch, but can any one point me to better wiring instructions?
Update......when door is opened and interior light go on, the gauge did have lights.
Thanks

Bearcat if I'm understanding correctly you have power from the lighter to the red wire. Your ground can also use the lighter if you have not found a better source and for the lighting white gets you the white light which I did not use however connecting the orange wire to the DSC lighting circuit thus when I turned on the lights my gauges backlight worked also. The dimmer will also control the lights (NON STEPPER) by doing this method also.

Tron Chief

[bearcat245]

Originally Posted by Tron Chief

Bearcat if I'm understanding correctly you have power from the lighter to the red wire. Your ground can also use the lighter if you have not found a better source and for the lighting white gets you the white light which I did not use however connecting the orange wire to the DSC lighting circuit thus when I turned on the lights my gauges backlight worked also. The dimmer will also control the lights (NON STEPPER) by doing this method also.

Tron Chief

TC, Red is connected to OBDII for hot per Alta instructions. All other connections are at the lighter and ACS button. I have to take apart again since connections are not good (T connects too big) That is main issue, but what wires are needed is another issue. I will remove the "white" since I want amber. Will see how it works out.
Thanks post to 2nd gen with more detail since this thread is too long.
Update= moving

[SRTech]

The Group Buy is still on through the end of December. New items in RED.

Group Buy Prices:

Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (mechanical) $47.50

Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (stepper) $102.50 (now with peak recall and warning)

Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (electric) $59.50

Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (stepper) $83.50

Water temperature, 100-260°F (electric) $53.50

Water temperature, 100-260°F (stepper) $77.50

Dimmer for stepper gauges $25.00

Oil temperature, 140-310°F (electric) $60.50 (only a few in stock)

Oil temperature, 140-310°F (stepper) $84.50

Voltmeter, 0-18V (electric) $48.50 (only a few in stock)

Voltmeter, 0-18V (stepper) $63.50



Oil pressure, oil temperature and water temperature gauges include the sending unit with 1/8" NPT connection.

Stepper motor gauges have peak recall and warning functions.

Shipping is $10 in the lower 48 states. Hawaii, Alaska and non-USA destinations will be determined individually.

The CravenSpeed mounting and adapters are going to be 10% off list price for this group buy. If you have any other CravenSpeed requests, I will offer 10% off those items during this group buy. Anyone with existing CravenSpeed mounts should be aware that the new mounts are powder coated instead of anodized so they won't match perfectly. I still have a few anodized pieces in stock so let me know.

Gauge Cup (52mm) gen1 and gen2 $49.00
Gauge Cup (dual 52mm) gen1 and gen2 $71.00
Bracket X (gen1) tach mount for cups $30.00
Bracket ZL (gen1) cup mount for chrono/nav $40.00
Bracket ZR (gen1) cup mount for chrono/nav $40.00
Bracket A (gen2) cup mount $45.00
Bracket R (gen2) single cup mount $40.00
Cup Caps (52mm) caps for back of cups $26.00
Tapless Adapter (gen1) oil pressure adapter $44.00
Tapless Adapter (gen2) oil pressure adapter $67.00
Hot Link (gen2) water temp adapter $54.00
PSIClone (gen2) vac/boost adapter $35.00

Please e-mail your billing and shipping addresses to gaugegb@blackoaks.com. Be sure to include your phone number and the gauges and mountings you want to buy. I will e-mail you an invoice for you to OK and then you can call me or vice-versa for the CC info. Some have e-mailed me the CC info which is OK if you are comfortable with that. I do not bill until I ship. You can call me if you have questions at 559.320.0004 Thanks.

Steve

[Tron Chief]

Sounds like I need to get my gauges quick

[tcowden]

Steve,

Does the new stepper version of the Vac/Boost still require the vacuum hose to go all the way to the gauge, or is there a new sender that converts the pressure/boost to an electrical signal at the manifold?

Thanks!
Tom

PS - Finally got all four gauges working! Only problem now is that the back lighting comes on whenever I apply the brakes . I guess I tapped the brake light wire instead of the the tail light wire! Easy fix.

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by tcowden

Steve,

Does the new stepper version of the Vac/Boost still require the vacuum hose to go all the way to the gauge, or is there a new sender that converts the pressure/boost to an electrical signal at the manifold?

Thanks!
Tom

PS - Finally got all four gauges working! Only problem now is that the back lighting comes on whenever I apply the brakes . I guess I tapped the brake light wire instead of the the tail light wire! Easy fix.

No, the vacuum hose runs to a sender under the hood and converts it to an electric signal. You then run the wires through the firewall to the gauge. You just have to make sure the sender doesn't get wet. I'm glad you have the gauges working. Finding the correct wires is always the most fun.

Steve

[Tron Chief]

Steve my better half will be calling for a cost I'm thinking its a Christmas Gift but looking at a flex pod adapter to move both my single pods onto the right side and a double pod for the left adding an electric volt meter and an electric oil pressure gauge.

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by Tron Chief

Steve my better half will be calling for a cost I'm thinking its a Christmas Gift but looking at a flex pod adapter to move both my single pods onto the right side and a double pod for the left adding an electric volt meter and an electric oil pressure gauge.

I think I can handle that.

Steve

[anitan1]

Does anybody have any pics of the multi-gauge setup? I've seen plenty of pics of the 2 gauge setup, but I'm not sure where you guys are putting the third and forth gauges that you buy...

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by anitan1

Does anybody have any pics of the multi-gauge setup? I've seen plenty of pics of the 2 gauge setup, but I'm not sure where you guys are putting the third and forth gauges that you buy...

I think SRTech has a multi gauge R53 setup that shows the attachment options next time I'm in the shop I will take a picture. I plan on using my existing two cups on one side (right) and putting a double on the left. Where as I already have the two singles might as well use them. The other option if I'm not happy with the look is to go to two double cup holders one for the right and one for the left

[rjb]

Originally Posted by anitan1

Does anybody have any pics of the multi-gauge setup? I've seen plenty of pics of the 2 gauge setup, but I'm not sure where you guys are putting the third and forth gauges that you buy...

Here is a couple of pictures of my R56 (2009 JCW) with 3 gauges. As someone pointed out, I do not have the chrome or black trim rings on mine, and it may be a tight fit with the cravenspeed mounts...
Attached Thumbnails

__________________

[bebop86]

can someone show me pics of the setup using the chrono package- not sure if there will be to much going on and look to crowded- thanks

[tcowden]

Originally Posted by anitan1

Does anybody have any pics of the multi-gauge setup? I've seen plenty of pics of the 2 gauge setup, but I'm not sure where you guys are putting the third and forth gauges that you buy...

I've got all four gauges setup in two Craven Dual Pods in my R56. I'm out of town right now, but will snap a few pics and post them when I get back next week.

Tom

[anitan1]

Thanks tcowden! I'm looking forward to seeing your set up. Did you install yours yourself?