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My install is underway, but I'm waiting to hear a response to rjb's lighting question prior to wiring everything up. If the instrument lighting supply doesn't adequately support the gauge lighting, I'd rather have an independent rheostat rather than have no adjustment at all.
I'm thinking the same thing...I drove it for the first time at night last night and the dimmer had to be almost all they way bright (I'd say at least 80-90% bright) before the stepper motor lights would illuminate, which is way to bright for my tastes. BTW the boost gauge operated as I would suspect dimming and brightening with the other interior lighting. I'm thinking maybe that I will need to tap the stepper motor gauges off of the parking light hot wire and use the Marshall rheostat to dim the lighting on these 2 gauges , although this is not the configuration I'd prefer...
I'm hoping someone has a better solution
__________________ Sully/2009 JCW Chili Red/Black/Ordered 8-22-2008/Born 10-28-2008/Delivered11-17-2008
Black Bonnet Stripes | JCW Sport Suspension | Strut Brace
Auto A/C | MFSW | Arm Rest | Fluid Silver Interior surface
If there isn't a better solution, I might just put my stepper gauge in my boat (it can definitely stand to be a bit crude), and buy the conventional oil pressure gauge for the MINI.
__________________
Darren Asuncion
Kodiak, Alaska
04 MCS IB/W - Indi Blue Owner's Club #76, MMC#515 FlickrFacebookYouTubeMyspace
I'm thinking the same thing...I drove it for the first time at night last night and the dimmer had to be almost all they way bright (I'd say at least 80-90% bright) before the stepper motor lights would illuminate, which is way to bright for my tastes. BTW the boost gauge operated as I would suspect dimming and brightening with the other interior lighting. I'm thinking maybe that I will need to tap the stepper motor gauges off of the parking light hot wire and use the Marshall rheostat to dim the lighting on these 2 gauges , although this is not the configuration I'd prefer...
I'm hoping someone has a better solution
Has anyone contacted Marshall yet? I'm going to call in a little while to get some info about this.
Has anyone contacted Marshall yet? I'm going to call in a little while to get some info about this.
Steve
No, I haven't yet. I was going to, but thought maybe you would . I was the one you chatted with on Saturday Morning. If Marshall needs more info feel free to PM me and I will call them or give you my number to have them call me.
__________________ Sully/2009 JCW Chili Red/Black/Ordered 8-22-2008/Born 10-28-2008/Delivered11-17-2008
Black Bonnet Stripes | JCW Sport Suspension | Strut Brace
Auto A/C | MFSW | Arm Rest | Fluid Silver Interior surface
No, I haven't yet. I was going to, but thought maybe you would . I was the one you chatted with on Saturday Morning. If Marshall needs more info feel free to PM me and I will call them or give you my number to have them call me.
Paul is going to post a reply to clarify this subject so I don't have to translate my conversation with him. Thanks.
I am guessing the MINI dimmer works by frequency modulation which is not compatible with most aftermarket LED lit gauges. This issue is not unique to Marshall LED lit gauges. Manufacturers sell separate dimming modules for this very reason. We also sell a dimmer module designed to work with our gauges (see below).
The reason your lighting does not come on until the OEM dimmer is high is most likely because it uses frequency modulation, essentially dropping the voltage of the lighting wire connection below the require voltage to activate the lighting circuit (~7V). Anything less than ~7V and the lighting will be "OFF", above ~7V and the lighting is "ON".
To solve this issue, do not connect the light wire to the dimmer output. Connect the light wire to a source that is before the dimmer output (i.e. one that is 12V when lights are ON and 0V when lights are OFF).
Dimming the Gauges
---
The Marshall stepper motor gauges can be dimmed by adjusting the ACC voltage supply (**not the lighting wire voltage**) between 7 and 10V.
We sell a nice compact dimmer module to dim our LED stepper motor gauges. One dimmer can be used on multiple gauges. You just set it and leave it or remote mount for dimming control.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
"...indeed the love that the horses of the Rangers bore for their riders was so great that they were willing to face even the terror of the Door, if their masters' hearts were steady..." --- J.R.R. Tolkien
I'm thinking the same thing...I drove it for the first time at night last night and the dimmer had to be almost all they way bright (I'd say at least 80-90% bright) before the stepper motor lights would illuminate, which is way to bright for my tastes. BTW the boost gauge operated as I would suspect dimming and brightening with the other interior lighting. I'm thinking maybe that I will need to tap the stepper motor gauges off of the parking light hot wire and use the Marshall rheostat to dim the lighting on these 2 gauges , although this is not the configuration I'd prefer...
I'm hoping someone has a better solution
Does it mean that the dimmer "problem" is only with the stepper gauges? The other ones work OK, without an additional dimmer?
__________________
2009 Clubman S, Dark Silver/Black
2008 Clubman, Hot Chocolate/Silver **sold**
Both gauges have advantages and look great. Let me know what you end up using for a power tap for the lights on the stepper gauges as you go forward with the dimmer switch install.
__________________ 2 X Perma Grin tools & MidCal MINI's Dad(Navy 8300 MCPO)-2008 MCS DS/B, JCW Wing, Aero, Scoop, mirrors. (M7)Heatshield, USB, USS, Super AGS and Shift Knob. Marshall's Boost/Vac, H2O, Volt, Oil Pres. Gauges, BSH Catch can/DBP, TSW Springs, Helix Control arms, Go-Mini brake pulsar & no hole's plate, Borla Tour Exhaust. Custom MODS done by SRTech @ Custom Mini Shop 559-320-0004
Mounted them around the tach using the Cravenspeed "A bracket" and pods...Here is a couple of pictures...
Just a note of warning on using the Craven Dual Pods with two Marshall gauges -
When you add the chrome or black trim rings on the Marshall gauges, you can no longer fit two gauges into the Craven Dual Pods. The increased diameter makes them too large to fit together in the same Dual Pod.
As you can see in rjb's photo without the trim rings, the fit is already very close. With the trim rings, there's just not enough space between the two holes to accommodate them. You might be able to cut away some of the trim ring to get them to fit, but it would be tricky.
Also, removing the trim rings can (and will likely) scratch the silver paint used on the bezels (ask me how I know ).
Anyone know where to get the "Radiator coupler" for a R53 or know what the inner diameter of the hose is.
If you install the adapter downstream of the thermostat (near or in lieu of the bleed valve) the hose is approximately 1.25" ID. Here's the adapter I purchased for this install (recommended by a previous gauge installer):
The one disadvantage of this location is that there is no reading until the thermostat opens. As an alternative, you can also install in the heater supply hose to get more instantaneous block temp reading, but it is harder to access. Not sure what the ID is of those lines.
"...indeed the love that the horses of the Rangers bore for their riders was so great that they were willing to face even the terror of the Door, if their masters' hearts were steady..." --- J.R.R. Tolkien
As an alternative, you can also install in the heater supply hose to get more instantaneous block temp reading, but it is harder to access. Not sure what the ID is of those lines.
When Steve installed mine, this is what we did. My coupling is a prototype, he may be developing a part for retail? Not sure though as it will not be a "stock" part.
If you install the adapter downstream of the thermostat (near or in lieu of the bleed valve) the hose is approximately 1.25" ID. Here's the adapter I purchased for this install (recommended by a previous gauge installer):
The one disadvantage of this location is that there is no reading until the thermostat opens. As an alternative, you can also install in the heater supply hose to get more instantaneous block temp reading, but it is harder to access. Not sure what the ID is of those lines.
Thanks for the info.
Not sure which way I'll go. I'll have to take a look at the heater supply hose and see how tough it will be for me to do. (not sure where it's at).
That's the way I'd like to go.
If anyone has any other ideas or tip, I could use them.
Thanks
Thanks for the info.
Not sure which way I'll go. I'll have to take a look at the heater supply hose and see how tough it will be for me to do. (not sure where it's at).
That's the way I'd like to go.
If anyone has any other ideas or tip, I could use them.
Thanks
Here's the Autometer heater hose adapter that will fit the 3/4" hose exiting the thermostat housing.
You must remove your intake to access this area so it's not as easy as the radiator hose connection. Water flows through this hose even when the thermostat is closed so the gauge will read all the way up from ambient water temp. These can be bought online for about $30.
Sweeeet. That's what I'm going to do. Removing the intake is no big deal.
I would like to have it read from ambient.
Why no prices on the autometer site??
Hey Steve, did you send me an invoice? Or is the first order free .. lol
I have a hard time keeping track of the PMs. Please use the gaugegb@blackoaks.com address and send me your name, billing and shipping information. Once you approve the estimate I send you, you can call me at Custom Mini Shop, 559.320.0004, with your CC info. Thanks.
Sweeeet. That's what I'm going to do. Removing the intake is no big deal.
I would like to have it read from ambient.
Why no prices on the autometer site??
Because they only sell through dealers, unlike the MINI world.
. I was the one you chatted with on Saturday Morning. If Marshall needs more info feel free to PM me and I will call them or give you my number to have them call me.
Thanks.
ROHERYN -- 2011 MCS SO/W -- 
). 
.. lol
