Matching factory gauges

[fingershooter]

Originally Posted by MyroMini

Fingershooter, do you have a side shot of the installation?

Thanks :-)

Sorry for taking so long. Note this picture is of the original SCX gauges and not the updated ones.



Higher resolution image

http://6qygkg.bay.livefilestore.com/...b/STP_9481.JPG

[JIMINNI]

Originally Posted by Minidrivr

Can't wait to see pictures of these in 2nd Gen cars. My dealer today mentioned installing the factory boost and water temp gauges for $800.

$800.

[n1tr0]

Originally Posted by Minidrivr

Can't wait to see pictures of these in 2nd Gen cars. My dealer today mentioned installing the factory boost and water temp gauges for $800.

and they look like @ss !!
they don't match each other or the rest of the gauges.
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...s-for-jcw.html

[Tron Chief]

Even the original Marshall gauges were better then those now that SRTech got the final product it is even better Might be worth a road trip to get them installed at Custom Mini Shop in Fresno.

[Minidrivr]

Originally Posted by JIMINNI

$800.

Originally Posted by n1tr0

and they look like @ss !!
they don't match each other or the rest of the gauges.
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...s-for-jcw.html

The ones they had in the showroom looked slightly different than the ones in that thread. Same black background though. The gauges themselves were about $90 each.

Originally Posted by Tron Chief

Even the original Marshall gauges were better then those now that SRTech got the final product it is even better Might be worth a road trip to get them installed at Custom Mini Shop in Fresno.

[SRTech]

Originally Posted by n1tr0

and they look like @ss !!
they don't match each other or the rest of the gauges.
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...s-for-jcw.html

I don't know what to say. It's like they didn't even try to match the existing gauges.

Steve

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by Minidrivr

The ones they had in the showroom looked slightly different than the ones in that thread. Same black background though. The gauges themselves were about $90 each.

They look great when they appear to have been there all along.

[SRTech]

I'll try to keep this on the current page of this thread.

Group Buy Prices:

Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (mechanical) $47.50

Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (electric) $59.50

Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (stepper) $83.50

Water temperature, 100-260°F (electric) $53.50

Water temperature, 100-260°F (stepper) $77.50

Oil pressure and water temperature gauges include the sending unit with 1/8" NPT connection.

Stepper motor gauges have peak recall and warning functions.

Shipping is $10 in the lower 48 states. Hawaii, Alaska and non-USA destinations will be determined individually.

The CravenSpeed mounting and adapters are going to be 10% off list price for this group buy. If you have any other CravenSpeed requests, I will offer 10% off those items during this group buy. Anyone with existing CravenSpeed mounts should be aware that the new mounts are powder coated instead of anodized so they won't match perfectly. I still have a few anodized pieces in stock so let me know.

Gauge Cup (52mm) gen1 and gen2 $49.00
Gauge Cup (dual 52mm) gen1 and gen2 $71.00
Bracket X (gen1) tach mount for cups $30.00
Bracket ZL (gen1) cup mount for chrono/nav $40.00
Bracket ZR (gen1) cup mount for chrono/nav $40.00
Bracket A (gen2) cup mount $45.00
Bracket R (gen2) single cup mount $40.00
Cup Caps (52mm) caps for back of cups $26.00
Tapless Adapter (gen1) oil pressure adapter $44.00
Tapless Adapter (gen2) oil pressure adapter $67.00
Hot Link (gen2) water temp adapter $54.00
PSIClone (gen2) vac/boost adapter $35.00

Please e-mail your billing and shipping addresses to gaugegb@blackoaks.com. Be sure to include your phone number and the gauges and mountings you want to buy. I will e-mail you an invoice for you to OK and then you can call me or vice-versa for the CC info. Some have e-mailed me the CC info which is OK if you are comfortable with that. I do not bill until I ship. I have not received the gauges yet so I expect to start shipping next week. You can call me if you have questions at 559.320.0004 Thanks.

Steve

[SRTech]

I'll be substituting the Hot Link with the M7 version until my order from CravenSpeed comes in. They work the same and the price will be the same. Thanks.

Steve

[tcowden]

Thanks Steve for organizing this for us!

I received my gauges from Steve today and thought I'd take a few pics for everyone.



Water Temperature Gauge


Vacuum/Boost Gauge


Oil Pressure Gauge


In the pods...


What to put in the 4th spot? Hmmm....how about this?



The full set of photos are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25639646@N02/sets/72157622288237565/

More photos of them installed to follow...


Cheers,
Tom

[Minidrivr]

Looks good Tom. What are the details on that V1 display?

[Tron Chief]

Steve,

Just replaced my SCX Marshall gauges and the font looks great Not having the label such as temp/boost etc makes the gauge look clean just like the Mini Gauge they don't need a big sign to tell you its a speedometer or a tachometer very small label for what the gauge is. Color and performance is great. The mechanical Boost/Vac and the electric temp make a great combo and the price is excellent. Thanks for taking the time to organize this.

[tcowden]

Originally Posted by Minidrivr

Looks good Tom. What are the details on that V1 display?

Take a look here: Custom Thin V1 Remote Display

I then took a Craven Pod Cap and cut out a section to mount it on. It needs a bit more work, but it fits well.

Cheers,
Tom

[n1tr0]

Originally Posted by Tron Chief

Steve,

Just replaced my SCX Marshall gauges and the font looks great Not having the label such as temp/boost etc makes the gauge look clean just like the Mini Gauge they don't need a big sign to tell you its a speedometer or a tachometer very small label for what the gauge is. Color and performance is great. The mechanical Boost/Vac and the electric temp make a great combo and the price is excellent. Thanks for taking the time to organize this.

Hey, post up some pictures, I'm dying to see how this looks on an R56 while I wait for mine.
from the front & the sides would be awesome ! thanks

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by n1tr0

Hey, post up some pictures, I'm dying to see how this looks on an R56 while I wait for mine.
from the front & the sides would be awesome ! thanks

Here you go

[n1tr0]

Thanks for the update, it's good to see those rings from the side as well.

[KyleJ]

Anybody have pics lit up at night?

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by n1tr0

Thanks for the update, it's good to see those rings from the side as well.

You mentioned the rings and I had them on and had not given any thought to not having them on. Honestly I like it better with out the black ring since my interior is piano black. Camera phone so quality of pictures is lacking hope this helps

[JIMINNI]

Originally Posted by tcowden

Take a look here: Custom Thin V1 Remote Display

I then took a Craven Pod Cap and cut out a section to mount it on. It needs a bit more work, but it fits well.

Cheers,
Tom

That is so cool Wonder if that voids the warranty on it though?

[M3NTAL]

On the boost gauge - are you guys tying all three 12+ wires to the gray/red wire? I don't see a reason not to.

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by M3NTAL

On the boost gauge - are you guys tying all three 12+ wires to the gray/red wire? I don't see a reason not to.

Three wires? I terminated the white light illumination wire. The Orange light wire went to the gray red by the DSC for light control this way you can control the light and not have the gauges at full bright when you have dimmed everything else. Then the +12V went to a switched power line that is on when the car is on. Lastly the ground to a ground to make the gauge work. Hope that answers the questions your having.

[M3NTAL]

You terminated the white wire (put a connection on the end of it) - but what did you connect it to?

Why does the gauge need a constant 12v+ that is what I want to know. Right now I connected the three wires and soldered a single wire off of them. Both the white and amber lights (yellow orange wires) should come on at the same time (when the lights are turned on)

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by M3NTAL

You terminated the white wire (put a connection on the end of it) - but what did you connect it to?

Why does the gauge need a constant 12v+ that is what I want to know. Right now I connected the three wires and soldered a single wire off of them. Both the white and amber lights (yellow orange wires) should come on at the same time (when the lights are turned on)

The gauges are built for the Mini however some other folks might like them at some time and Marshalls has the white light in for those reasons. The gauge requires a power source to operate according to schematics from Marshalls. The use of both lights and having all three I have never considered however I have seen some people put a switch where they could change to white lights in the day and amber lights at night.

[n1tr0]

Originally Posted by Tron Chief

You mentioned the rings and I had them on and had not given any thought to not having them on. Honestly I like it better with out the black ring since my interior is piano black. Camera phone so quality of pictures is lacking hope this helps

ah sweet, that's the shot I was looking for ! That really looks factory

now all you need to do is swap in the JCW wheel to complete your 'drivers' cockpit.

[Tron Chief]

Originally Posted by n1tr0

ah sweet, that's the shot I was looking for ! That really looks factory

now all you need to do is swap in the JCW wheel to complete your 'drivers' cockpit.

One thing at a time

I agree though they look so good