Power folding mirror installation
(this is my first time, so don’t expect OctaneGuy quality!)

Power folding mirrors purchased from newministuff.com (placed appropriately in the 'gadgets and cool stuff' section.
They also have a DIY section (with better pictures)

Tools needed:
5mm allen wrench
T-10, T-20, T-30 torx bits
8mm socket
7/64ths drill bit (IIRC)
Wire cutters
Soldering iron (optional)
Jeweler’s screwdrivers (optional)

I received a set of folding mirrors, without the mirror glass or actuator motor, and with a length of wire added to the power actuator motor.
(pardon the pictures – my camera was crap)

<stock_mirror_front>



<power_mirror_front>



Start by removing the stock mirror covers
I used the ‘butter knife method’ from MINI2 – tilt mirror full down, then lift tabs, starting with the one closest to the car. Butter knives work well to keep the tabs up. After third tab is up, cover tilts back and snaps off.

Next, remove mirror from car
Fold mirror in to access the three 5mm bolts
After the bolts are free, lift mirror off and disconnect by squeezing sides of car side connector
<car side connector>

(yes, the OCD will take this opportunity to clean underneath the mirror gaskets...)

Now the fun begins!
edit: See Matt's mirror removal method - much easier than mine!
You must remove the mirror from the housing. (this may be the toughest part of the project)
If you have heated mirrors, remove the two small connectors on the outer edge of the mirror.
The mirror snaps on to the actuator by 8 small tabs.
If you peer and squint, you MAY be able to see them through the holes in the back side of the housing

Here is what the mirror looks like when it is removed
<glass_back>



Here is an attempt to show the tabs on the mirror
The one on the left is marred a bit from the screwdriver
<mirror_tab_angle>


My best advice is to work slowly and patiently, prying from the outside edge.
Keep pressure on the mirror and use a jeweler’s screwdriver to pry the tabs off the actuator. Keep trying - it will eventually come loose. Yoga helps.:impatient
I tried removing the mirror from the actuator when it was out of the mirror, and it wasn’t any easier.
Next, remove the power connector to the actuator. This is a b!tch, as you have to spread two plastic clips and simultaneously pull the connector out.
Then remove the three T-10 (aka tiny) screws that hold the actuator to the housing.
Transfer actuator and mirror to power mirror housing.
The mirror side connector is on two pins on the mirror housing – it slides off pretty easily.

What you SHOULD do:
Cut off the eight pin connector from power mirror, and six pin connector from your stock mirrors, leaving an inch or two of wire on the stock mirror connector, then solder and shrink tube the wires from the stock connector to the power mirror.

What I did : As I was unable to source a spare mirror side connector, and I have an irrational fear of cutting stock wiring , I removed the original wiring harness from the stock mirrors (details available on request) and wired it up with the original harness intact.

Here the connector is cut off and wires are prepared for splicing


<connector_dry_run> (no, it's not pretty)


<shrink_tube_conn> (shrink tubing hides the ugly soldering nicely)

My method forced me to coil the extra wire (shown uncoiled here), but it fit fine in the door.

I went even more ghetto on the passenger side, so much so that I won’t describe it here…

Now it’s time to install the new mirrors on the car.
Make sure the windows are rolled up as you’ll need to reach inside the door.
Take off the door panel-
Remove the reflector in the upper corner – pull from the bottom as there are clips on the other three sides
Remove the four T-30 torx bolts (one is under the reflector)
Official instructions say use a taped screwdriver to pry the door card out, but I use my fingers and it works fine.
Note that there are clips at the top of the door – the card just pulls straight out.
You should disconnect the battery (but I run with scissors, so I didn’t , with no ill effect- though the window adjusts when you release the connector)

Feed the blue and yellow wires (which operate the folding motor) into the door
Connect the car side mirror connector to your newly wired original connector, and loosely attach with 5mm allen screws
Disconnect the door harness
To remove the harness, unscrew 8mm bolt in front of connector, close door halfway, then push connector forward. This will release it from the bodywork.

<door_connector> (passenger side shown here)


You’ll need to pull it out and tilt it vertically to have room to release it.
Pull on end of connector and it will release – BMW style (sort of sliding pins)
Next, drill out two spots on the rearward side of the connector, then run the wires through the door accordion connector.
(You can see on the car side connector that no OEM wires run here.)

I used a coat hangar, ran it through from the outside of the door, then taped one of the wires to it and pulled it through

<door_conn_pwr_wires>


Finally, run the wires through the connector and to the interior of the car. I used an awl to pierce the rubber boot, then the coat hangar again to pull the wires through.
The wires go through the middle of the door side connector NOT outside it– they do not interfere with its operation.
Make sure when running the wires that they are on the proper side of the door hinge!
Also, make sure the accordion door connector is not twisted.

<wires_into_car>


Re-attach door connector to car, taking care to keep yellow/blue wires straight and clear
For the passenger side, run wires across dash and behind center stack to your switch location.
For driver’s side, wires run right behind driver’s knee bolster.

Now for the switch.
The kit comes with a switch and the appropriate wiring including a fuse. You just need access to power and ground.
I generally use an ‘add-a-circuit’, but the kit has a 15amp fuse, and the add-a-circuit is only rated to 10 amps, so I had to run a hot wire from the engine compartment fuse box. As I recently added driving lights, this part was a repeat for me (aka, sorry, no pictures - but the OEM driving light install instructions show it)
ALWAYS disconnect the battery when connecting accessories to the main fuse box!
You need to run the wire through a grommet at the top of the firewall, drill a hole through the plastic partition, then bolt a ring connector to the + bolt at the rear of the fuse box. Then find a close ground – I use a torx bolt up in the dash.

Finally, follow the instructions in the kit – connect green wire to driver blue & passenger yellow, and connect black wire to driver yellow and passenger blue. Make sure to remove the fuse when working with the wiring if your battery is not disconnected.

My switch is currently in the blank spot in my euro parcel shelf, though the pic doesn’t show it. I also have the driving lights (that switch goes in the same spot) so I have to figure out where to put that.




A short video of one mirror in action is in my gallery (link here.)

Initial impressions: Too cool! It’s nice for pulling into my too small garage, and any other tight parking space. And it impresses the girls (ok, I made that up.)

I'll be at AMVIV if anyone wants to see it live.

 

Nice write-up!! Damn that's so hot on a MINI!

 

 

So will you set up a booth and be doing this in Vegas? Nice write up and Great mod.

You forgot one thing, the picture of you smiling next to the car.

 

can you show pics of the switch you used.

 

Oops - edited original to include (really bad, fuzzy) picture of switch.

The switch currently resides in the blank spot of the euro shelf - it's a perfect fit. Pic to follow.

 

Too cool...I want to do this. And I can't explain why...it's just so cool.

 

Exactly. That was the tipping factor for me. I'm not big on bling, but for about the price of heated seats, you get moving parts.
If you need just a little push more, in the Vendor section you'll see Mikey is extending a 5% discount to NAM members - helps offset the cost of shipping.

 

Here's a pic of the switch installed in the parcel shelf. Perfect fit!

 

very cool

 

Great work Eric!

I am interested in doing the same job.

Can you tell if the mirror hardware is OEM - did you happen to see a part number on it?

BTW, your dash trim panel shown in the pic with the switch is installed a little wrong - the lip should be under the dash top piece.

 

The hardware supplied by NewMINIStuff is partial OEM, and partial not.

For those (like me) who are interested in a 100% OEM retrofit of the power folding mirrors, it CAN be done for 1st Gen MINIs. As soon as I get my car back and I can verify things, I'll write up a new thread about how to do it, including all of the necessary part numbers.

 

Sorry - guess I missed this post. The mirrors appear to be OEM - they have the standard BMW connectors. Didn't look for part numbers.
The switch is definitely aftermarket. The OEM mirror switch is integrated into the seat heater switch panel.
One of these days I'll check to see if it's possible to utilize the OEM switch - don't know if it runs through the BC1 or not.

 

Eric, as noted in my last post, I'll have full answers on the 100% OEM side of things shortly, because I'm doing it.

If I'm correct, it will mean that anyone who wants it in their 1st Gen MINI and doesn't have it, will be able to buy the necessary parts and retrofit it... and no, you won't have to replace the entire main wiring harness to get it!

I can't promise it will be cheaper than Mikey's solution though! OEM parts are rarely cheap.

 

very cool subscribing now

 

Any updates on this project?

Cheers!!

 

No updates, they've been in and working for almost a year and I love 'em. In addition to the cool factor, I've got a tiny garage and that extra few inches helps (and I never have to crawl over the passenger seat to push the mirror back out!)

I still haven't found any donor mirror harnesses , but my frankenstein solution is holding up just fine.

 

I need to find a cool switch...hmmmmm....

 

now if we can just figure out how to have them fold when the car is turned off that would be excellent!

 

It can't be controlled by the key fob when it's off? Man, I've had these stupid things for 2 years and have yet to install them.

 

Eric -

Can you buy the required door harnesses from the dealer? If anything, I'd like to do as much of this modification using OEM parts. And if I could get heated mirrors while I'm at it, even better!

 

My kit is hot all the time, no key fob control, but they can definitely be actuated with the car on or off. Otherwise it might be annoying.

 

Huh - never thought of that. Actually per realoem, it is available - don't know how much though.
The 'mikey mirrors' are heated, so I guess you'd have to replace the harness if you want that feature - not sure if the harness alone would do it though - there may be something on the car side that's required.

 

Have a relay controlled with a power line that's only hot when the car is on. Car on=folded out (or manual control), car off, folded in no matter what.

Matt

 

I've thought of doing the mod as well and always wanted to add it to the empty switch below the AC controls...
Nice Job!!