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I did this mod...thanks to the directions posted here...but I liked the looks of the gauge on the right...but....be warned...it took some "persuasion" that left a gouge in my dash...ouch . My steerign wheel tilt has been effected as well..here are some pictures. After all of that i'm thinking of moving it to the other side...What do you think...?. see the gouge ouch..
Ouch on the dash. A solution is the autometer extended bracket with a little fabrication. Through out this post you will see it discussed and fabrication diagram. In the pic below - notice that with the extended bracket where the cup ring is located or ends up. Not only do you get a better grip on the cup but allows for some forward/back adjustability so you can keep the cup away from the dash. This part is under 10 bucks, its needs to be cut (aluminum) so it can be done with a hacksaw, metal file (dremel is easiest) and then a cab of paint.
I bought the autometer gauge, cup, and standard bracket to do this mod, and I have to say I am completely baffled as to how several of you have been able to use one long bolt that goes thru the cup bracket and then on into the existing tach hole. For one thing, the tach screws (at least on my '05) are a very odd size -- as best I can figure they are M5 with a pitch of 1.25mm, whereas the threads for the bracket mount are 1/4-20. Also, the tach screw holes are vertical, but the bracket mounting screw has to be angled quite a bit to reach the tach hole. So it seems an impossible situation, unless you just jam the screw in there and hope for the best.
If I could just FIND a long enough (say 40mm) M5 x 1.25 bolt, I could drill holes in the end of the bracket and attach it that way. Why did MINI pick such weird threads for mounting the tach?!?
With the extended bracket you can drill your own hole to get it vertically over the stock tach screw hole. Since I used 1 screw, I added double stick tape to the bracket to help hold it in place. On the screw, I found the lentgh that I needed, close in thread and then forced it.
I bought the autometer gauge, cup, and standard bracket to do this mod, and I have to say I am completely baffled as to how several of you have been able to use one long bolt that goes thru the cup bracket and then on into the existing tach hole. For one thing, the tach screws (at least on my '05) are a very odd size -- as best I can figure they are M5 with a pitch of 1.25mm, whereas the threads for the bracket mount are 1/4-20. Also, the tach screw holes are vertical, but the bracket mounting screw has to be angled quite a bit to reach the tach hole. So it seems an impossible situation, unless you just jam the screw in there and hope for the best.
If I could just FIND a long enough (say 40mm) M5 x 1.25 bolt, I could drill holes in the end of the bracket and attach it that way. Why did MINI pick such weird threads for mounting the tach?!?
I ended up drilling out the threads for the left hole of the tach mount with a 5 mm drill, and tapping the hole for M6 with a 1 mm pitch (a more common thread). I used Outbackbob's suggestion of inverting the stnd bracket, and grinding it off a bit to allow a closer fit to the back of the tach. Then I drilled a hole in the bottom flange of the bracket (at the very far edge away from the boost gauge side), and used a 6 x 30mm cap screw to mount the bracket in the new tach hole. Since the tach holes are recessed into the plastic cover behind the tach, I made a stand-off (~1/2" long) from a piece of copper tubing with some PVC tubing glued inside so it fit snugly around the 6mm screw. To get the right slant, I cut one end of the stand-off at a slant. Everything worked out pretty well. With the 6mm cap screw, you can really tighten down on the bracket, so it is solid even with just the one fastener. The hole in the tach needed to be reamed out just a bit for the 6mm screw.
Although I made the standard bracket work, I'm guessing that using the extended bracket and mount to the back of the tach ends up being a lot less trouble.
I moved the gauge to the Left side even though I preferred the look on the Right...( on the right it was impeding the steering wheel tilt)...in the process of moving it the cheap #%*&@ plastic hose broke where it had kinked earier...grrrr.... Question...has anyone used a different type of hose/ ie braided metal hose or otherwise and if so what size and at what cost...personally I think that the plastic hose is crap, prone to kinks and breakage.
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HIS-'02CR/CR,MadCAI,Mgnflow,RDR Swybr,Helix -15%,Alta+2% crank,PIAAs,Montegi 17"Trak Lts, 215/40/17Yok ES 100s, IK-22s.MTH-Tuner
Hers-'02 EB/UJ bone stock
Why am I here and where am I going in this hand basket?
i was just about to ask if theres any problem installing it on the right side instead of the left and now i see that even though it think it would look better on the right side the left side is better for room and wheel tilt. Very cool, im going to be trying this mod soon
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Mykl Milligan Hyper Blue Owners Club #1 MMC #432
'06 MCS Hyper Blue/White :( SOLD '05 MCS JCW DS/W <-- Dad's Car (Currently for Sale!)
Currently driving an '04 Jetta but looking for a PW MC, PST me if you know of one!
Know how to reset the boost warning light so that it comes on higher up? Mine comes on about 10/11 psi which fine for a stock MCS, but I have a 15% & 2% pulley which puts out about 16 psi.
This is a Autometer boost/vac gauge in the ProMini kit and has the warning and peak buttons.....
__________________ '03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
Ooooo.......I like that idea, or I'll try to tap into the actual dimmer switch if i can manage to get that out.
On my 2003 MCS, getting the dimmer switch out is fairly easy. Simply unscrew the 4 screws holding the speedometer and 2 vents. (2 at the top and 2 at the bottom, underneath)
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2012 Countryman S All4 - Light White, Sunroof, Premium & Cold packages, Xenons, Adaptive lights, and lots of fun!!
can someone do us a favour and post a pic to show where the wires/hoses from the boost gauge inside the car goes to.. before appearing under the bonnet..>???
Ok................I tapped the heated seat switch and all is well.
Skuzzy..........are you talking about where the wiring harness passes through the firewall into the engine compartment? Or do you mean from the actual gauges themselves to the firewall?
__________________ '03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
can someone do us a favour and post a pic to show where the wires/hoses from the boost gauge inside the car goes to.. before appearing under the bonnet..>???
Just a quick tip to run the hose from the inside to the engine bay...
When standing in from on your MINI, look behind the intake airbox, just a bit to the left of it, and you'll see a big red wire coming through the firewall... That's the positive wire going to the battery. Take a long screwdriver and punch a hole through that gommet. You'll see the screwdriver from under the dashboard and be able to attach the vacuum hose to it... Now just pull slowly the screwdriver from the engine bay and you'll get the hose through in no time!
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2012 Countryman S All4 - Light White, Sunroof, Premium & Cold packages, Xenons, Adaptive lights, and lots of fun!!
Ok................I tapped the heated seat switch and all is well.
Skuzzy..........are you talking about where the wiring harness passes through the firewall into the engine compartment? Or do you mean from the actual gauges themselves to the firewall?
from the gauges to the firewall havent tried but i cant picutre how id hide the hose/wires from the top of the steering wheel going down..
Don't have a picture of it right now, but remove the speedo which is mounted on a small piece of plastic that covers up a channel that you can route the wires through. Cover back up and everything is hidden. Of course from there your under the dash so it's a short jump to the firewall. Will post a picture in a couple of days...........
__________________ '03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
... just want to share my installation with metric unit [bar].
I already have the original instruments from BMW in the middle under the switches and aircondition/heating control. That's where I got power for illumination.
I gotta ask. What happens when you turn on the heated seats? does the gauge get warm and toasty as well?
LOL
When I put the heated seats, the gauge also make a "hands heater" as well... lol
Seriously, There is no problem with the dimmer wire on the heated seats switch. I've done 2 other gauges installs on that switch, for 2 MINI friends, and both also woth great!
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2012 Countryman S All4 - Light White, Sunroof, Premium & Cold packages, Xenons, Adaptive lights, and lots of fun!!
. My steerign wheel tilt has been effected as well..here are some pictures. After all of that i'm thinking of moving it to the other side...What do you think...?. see the gouge ouch..
For one thing, the tach screws (at least on my '05) are a very odd size -- as best I can figure they are M5 with a pitch of 1.25mm, whereas the threads for the bracket mount are 1/4-20. Also, the tach screw holes are vertical, but the bracket mounting screw has to be angled quite a bit to reach the tach hole. So it seems an impossible situation, unless you just jam the screw in there and hope for the best. 
Since I used 1 screw, I added double stick tape to the bracket to help hold it in place. On the screw, I found the lentgh that I needed, close in thread and then forced it. 
'03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
. And like me you did not pick the right one, grasshopper 
