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Okay, this is going to sound very stupid to all of you, but I don't understand the process of 'getting power' from one of the wires. I'm assuming you're splicing one of the wires and running one end to the gauge, but how exactly is that done? I've never had to do electrical work, so...
Okay - here goes a sum but go back thru the boost gauge threads and you will find more specifics. Most people want to tie in their gauge to the cars gauge wiring (i.e. turn on your lights your guage lights up with the rest of the gauges). There are numerous options I will cover a few.
One option is to get to the cigarrette lighter wiring since it lights up w/ the dash.
Second option (which I decided to go with) is to run your gauge wiring down to the fuse panel area. If you remove the plastic around the fuse panel door - in front of the fuse panel (i.e. closest to the car door opening)
you will see a large wiring harness running vetrically. Inside are TWO grey wires w/ pink strips - one of those grey/pink is tied into the panel lights. Unless you have equpment to test it is a trial an error method which I used (and yes I didn't pick the right one the first time). So first establish your ground and then tap into your first grey/pink pic. Have electrical tape to patch the wire if you (like me) picked the wrong one.
There are other options along the way (i.e. from the stock guages to the fuse panel to find a wire to tap - I just found it easier to work next to the fuse panel.
Okay - here goes a sum but go back thru the boost gauge threads and you will find more specifics. Most people want to tie in their gauge to the cars gauge wiring (i.e. turn on your lights your guage lights up with the rest of the gauges). There are numerous options I will cover a few.
One option is to get to the cigarrette lighter wiring since it lights up w/ the dash.
Second option (which I decided to go with) is to run your gauge wiring down to the fuse panel area. If you remove the plastic around the fuse panel door - in front of the fuse panel (i.e. closest to the car door opening)
you will see a large wiring harness running vetrically. Inside are TWO grey wires w/ pink strips - one of those grey/pink is tied into the panel lights. Unless you have equpment to test it is a trial an error method which I used (and yes I didn't pick the right one the first time). So first establish your ground and then tap into your first grey/pink pic. Have electrical tape to patch the wire if you (like me) picked the wrong one.
There are other options along the way (i.e. from the stock guages to the fuse panel to find a wire to tap - I just found it easier to work next to the fuse panel.
Thanks, but you're still giving me too much credit. Think of a little grade school kid, and that's about all I know about electrical thing-a-majiggers. I also don't have the equipment as I haven't decided if this stuff is way over my head so I'm trying to get a mental picture. I understand people using the different sources. The thing that I don't understand and is taken for common knowledge is the process of tapping power from a wire. This is my picture of the install:
1) a tube runs from the engine to the gauge
2) a wire runs from the gauge, which has a positive (red) and negative (black) end
3) Connect the negative end to a metal screw
4) ....
Do I just cut my chosen wire, strip it of the insulation, attach a splitter, re-establish the original connection and connect the gauge wire to the splitter? Like I said, grade-schooler...
Autometer Boost and oil pressure. Ultralite Pro Comp 2 5/8"
Oil pressure can be tapped into a few places. The easiest install is to tap the sending unit into the top of the filter housing. But it is kinda backwards, because you have to mess with it every time you change the filter. That's essentially how my guage was installed. (I did not do the work...)
I got my boost gauge for roughly $60....its a 2 5"8 and its in my right air vent, check my gallery for pictures of it.... looks good, but there's no gain at all
I did mine yesterday, ran into a few snags, here's some of my tips
the hose you need to remove is from the fuel regulator, the hose attaches to the bottom of that silver thing in the middle. pop off the hose and pull it out, then plug it into the tap. attach the hose you purchased from the tap back into the fuel regulator. i purchased 5/32" vaccuum hose from Advance Auto for $3.50
Another view
On the 2005 there is already a hold in the firewall. Check out the OEM instructions (here), it was very helpful in the routing of the hose from the gauges to the intercooler. All you need to do is cut off the rubber nipple sealing the hole, once you do that you should see some light coming in under the dash. Just route your hose through there and it'll pop out the other side.
I had some problems w/ the gauge itself however, the autometer bracket clamps so far back on the pod that it doesn't hold the gauge in, how have people fixed their autometer gauge in?
The gauge also sits really close to the dash, so close that the hose is almost at a right angle. I feared the bend would crimp the hose and prevent it from working, but I tested it out and it showed 10psi so its working right.
I did mine yesterday, ran into a few snags,
I had some problems w/ the gauge itself however, the autometer bracket clamps so far back on the pod that it doesn't hold the gauge in, how have people fixed their autometer gauge in?
The gauge also sits really close to the dash, so close that the hose is almost at a right angle. I feared the bend would crimp the hose and prevent it from working, but I tested it out and it showed 10psi so its working right.
You can grind the bracket down so it is flat on the end that bolts to the tach and then refit it. (Reverse the way it mounts on the Tach).This will bring it a little bit more forward so the clamp fits snugly around the pod. I also had to make a short extension plate to make it fit this way. The bracket has 2 holes so a short little plate with 3 holes (2 for the bracket and 1 to mount it on the tach works). The idea of a small piece of rubber under the bracket to keep it from slipping helps also.
I used a 90 degree elbow to run the line.
I repainted all the hardware black and used a black marker on the clear line to make it all look pretty (you can use the black marker for touch up too).
You can now bring the steering wheel all the way up and the gauge bracket will not hit the dash plus the gauge pod doesn't sit right up against the edge of my tach.
I also replaced the bulb in the gauge with a 194R (wal-Mart) to get the light to match my gauges. I couldn't see using the little red bulb condom that came with gauge
I had some problems w/ the gauge itself however, the autometer bracket clamps so far back on the pod that it doesn't hold the gauge in, how have people fixed their autometer gauge in?
Autometer makes an extended bracket and then with just little fabrication (its aluminum so it cuts easy).
here is a pic attached to the tach.
here is a side view
and here is how it looks attached - note how it is in the center of the cup
as I said it required a little fabrication -
1) cutting off some aluminun - hacksaw and file
2) a little paint
3) a drill for the hole.
the bracket sell for less that 10 bucks if I recall correctly and I think not only looks better but gives more flexibility. If you decide to do this drop me an email and i will highlight better the cutting portion.
PS - I used a brass 90 degree elbow on the back of the guage to keep the tubing nice and straight and avooid pressing into the dash.
Autometer makes an extended bracket and then with just little fabrication (its aluminum so it cuts easy).
here is a pic attached to the tach.
here is a side view
and here is how it looks attached - note how it is in the center of the cup
as I said it required a little fabrication -
1) cutting off some aluminun - hacksaw and file
2) a little paint
3) a drill for the hole.
the bracket sell for less that 10 bucks if I recall correctly and I think not only looks better but gives more flexibility. If you decide to do this drop me an email and i will highlight better the cutting portion.
PS - I used a brass 90 degree elbow on the back of the guage to keep the tubing nice and straight and avooid pressing into the dash.
Yes the bracket is the way to go. Wish I had bought it.
I removed the triangle pieces using a hacksaw and file (before i bought a dremel). a dremel will do this in minutes.
you drill your hole based on desired location - I opted for the 8 o'clock position. And you attach to the tach using existing screw hole - you will need to purcahse a longer screw.
Hope this helps. since i only used 1 hole I did add double stick tape to help it stay in place and not over tighten the screw.
I removed the triangle pieces using a hacksaw and file (before i bought a dremel). a dremel will do this in minutes.
you drill your hole based on desired location - I opted for the 8 o'clock position. And you attach to the tach using existing screw hole - you will need to purcahse a longer screw.
Yep that's essentially what I did to the stock bracket but it was too short so I added piece of metel to extend it.
Think I might order the longer one as it looks much better.
Summit racing sent me a coupon for being a first time customer when I bought the gauge.
The cool thing about this is that the interface between the bracket and guage/cup is a non event since it is all autometer stuff. You get all of the benefits of the "angling" capabilities. AND it gives you back and forth adjustability (i.e. cup ring placement on the cup) to help address the tubing coming out of the back and hitting the dash.
I mentioned previously that I used a 90 degree angle. It was a apin in the ass in the sense that you need to install it onto the back of the guage before inserting it into the cup. WHICH MEANS that you have to slide the guage into the cup lining up the 90 degree elbow with the slit on the cup.
It fought me all the way and had to carefully force the 90 elbow thru the slit. The end result to get the elbow facing the direction I wanted, the cup slit facing towards the bottom or down meant that the elbow was not fully threaded down to the guage. I'm not saing its lose but it was backed down part ofa turn. I used teflon tape and when I went out for a test drive I was able to verify no lose of boost.
I used the nut and bolt that came in the extended bracket kit as well as the spacer. you will see the difference compared to the spacer and bolts thatcome with the cup. I would suggest buying a black nut and bolt - you can see I used the stock one and while it doesn't look bad it doesn't look great either.
I had trouble finding a 90 elbow with female threads so I got one with male threads and a female/female adapter.
I put the adapter on the gauge slipped it in the cup and then the 90 elbow.
I found the best way to get a tight fit when you can't tighten the 90 degree fitting because of the way you want it to point is to use lots of teflon tape or just coat the threads with silicone sealant. The silicone sealant will allow you to unscrew it later if needed.
From BahamaBart in another thread, I've found this:
Alongside of the cars inside fuse box (must remove platic) is a bunch of cables, which is infront of the fuses. Inside those are TWO GRAY w/ PINK STRIPE - one of those is the cable that handles the dash lights.
You got a 50/50 chance of selecting the right one without tools. My guage lights worked after the SECOND attempt.
.
I just dropped the wire down and found it easier to work there than farther up the dash near the tach. Also easy to find ground in the area
But I've seen a picture of the complete harness under the dash on this forum, not too long ago... I've tried to find it back, but didn't... :-(
OK- You rock DarkMiniCooperS yet you have caused me new grief as this thread made me buy a gauge and holder... yes it called out to me and told me I must do it....
anyway, I have done half the install and got the gauge mounted. I have the chrono pack so things are a little more difficult since I have both the speedo and tach over the steering wheel but fret not those of you that have this or the nav! the bracket that comes with the holder that DarkMiniCooperS shows in the beginning of this thread works perfectly! (I will show pics when I am done)
The only reason I write is about the wonderful little grey/red wire that provides 12v+ (please note the hefty sarcasm that is accompanied by very bloody knuckles and a bruised back from being contorted under the dash). That wire exists as we know it and there are two of them up in the dash behind the steering column, no need to actually remove any plastic moulding by the fuse panel.
The easiest way to identify this, unlike my trial and error method, is to locate both wires and attach to the one that is of smaller gauge. Trust me it is very evident which one is smaller. Please go to any auto parts sotre and buy a small package of blue or red T-taps to make life easier. If you don't know what I am talking about please ask the person in the store!!!! What these allow you to do is safely crimp around an existing wire without cutting to splice into it. You then attach a male spade to the other wire (in theis case coming from the gauge) and plug into the tap and voila! power in seconds without the frustration of trying to cut and use a butt connector.
I hope this helps those of you that are taunted by the deep mysterious voice inside that tells you: 'life will not be complete until you install a boost gauge'.....
later
chris
__________________ if you don't have a plasma booster then you're a nobody!
OK- You rock DarkMiniCooperS yet you have caused me new grief as this thread made me buy a gauge and holder... yes it called out to me and told me I must do it....
anyway, I have done half the install and got the gauge mounted. I have the chrono pack so things are a little more difficult since I have both the speedo and tach over the steering wheel but fret not those of you that have this or the nav! the bracket that comes with the holder that DarkMiniCooperS shows in the beginning of this thread works perfectly! (I will show pics when I am done)
The only reason I write is about the wonderful little grey/red wire that provides 12v+ (please note the hefty sarcasm that is accompanied by very bloody knuckles and a bruised back from being contorted under the dash). That wire exists as we know it and there are two of them up in the dash behind the steering column, no need to actually remove any plastic moulding by the fuse panel.
The easiest way to identify this, unlike my trial and error method, is to locate both wires and attach to the one that is of smaller gauge. Trust me it is very evident which one is smaller. Please go to any auto parts sotre and buy a small package of blue or red T-taps to make life easier. If you don't know what I am talking about please ask the person in the store!!!! What these allow you to do is safely crimp around an existing wire without cutting to splice into it. You then attach a male spade to the other wire (in theis case coming from the gauge) and plug into the tap and voila! power in seconds without the frustration of trying to cut and use a butt connector.
I hope this helps those of you that are taunted by the deep mysterious voice inside that tells you: 'life will not be complete until you install a boost gauge'.....
later
chris
Welcome to the skinless knuckle club . In case you are concerned - the skin will grow back - takes a week or so!!!
If anyone is looking for the materials needed to go Bahamabart's route (the Autometer cup and the arm) I have an unused setup that I'd sell for $10 plus shipping.
If anyone is looking for the materials needed to go Bahamabart's route (the Autometer cup and the arm) I have an unused setup that I'd sell for $10 plus shipping.
I went another route with my boost gauge.
PM me if interested.
I'm curious, how did you mount your gauge ??
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2012 Countryman S All4 - Light White, Sunroof, Premium & Cold packages, Xenons, Adaptive lights, and lots of fun!!
My steering wheel can still be raised to the upper position without a problem. It doesn't touche the dashboard, or anything else when raised to the upward tilt position. This is true when mounting the gauge on the left side of the Tach, but on the right side, I have no idea...
I did this mod...thanks to the directions posted here...but I liked the looks of the gauge on the right...but....be warned...it took some "persuasion" that left a gouge in my dash...ouch . My steerign wheel tilt has been effected as well..here are some pictures. After all of that i'm thinking of moving it to the other side...What do you think...?. see the gouge ouch..
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HIS-'02CR/CR,MadCAI,Mgnflow,RDR Swybr,Helix -15%,Alta+2% crank,PIAAs,Montegi 17"Trak Lts, 215/40/17Yok ES 100s, IK-22s.MTH-Tuner
Hers-'02 EB/UJ bone stock
Why am I here and where am I going in this hand basket?
I bought the autometer gauge, cup, and standard bracket to do this mod, and I have to say I am completely baffled as to how several of you have been able to use one long bolt that goes thru the cup bracket and then on into the existing tach hole. For one thing, the tach screws (at least on my '05) are a very odd size -- as best I can figure they are M5 with a pitch of 1.25mm, whereas the threads for the bracket mount are 1/4-20. Also, the tach screw holes are vertical, but the bracket mounting screw has to be angled quite a bit to reach the tach hole. So it seems an impossible situation, unless you just jam the screw in there and hope for the best.
If I could just FIND a long enough (say 40mm) M5 x 1.25 bolt, I could drill holes in the end of the bracket and attach it that way. Why did MINI pick such weird threads for mounting the tach?!?
I've never had to do electrical work, so...
. My steerign wheel tilt has been effected as well..here are some pictures. After all of that i'm thinking of moving it to the other side...What do you think...?. see the gouge ouch..
