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yah there are two phillips screws in the back. use one and you have a mount with no need to drill .
My only problem I have noticed is at night it's hard for me to see because I'm wierd and turn all my lights down low. I might have to find a 12v always on
__________________ MMC #292 Synthia 2006 Mini Cooper S Space Blue with Silver
6-Speed Geartronic With LSD
Sport, Premium and Convience Package
Mods: Alta CAI, Whalen, Schroth Harness, S2K Antenna, boost gauge, H-Sport Comp Rear Sway, M7 USS, H-Sport Springs and upper and lower rear camber adjustments, Dinan Stage 4 Software Vroom Vroomwere my first words Learn to drive the line... Not the drivers ed line you hippy!
whats up with the steering wheel how you get it red?
__________________ MMC #292 Synthia 2006 Mini Cooper S Space Blue with Silver
6-Speed Geartronic With LSD
Sport, Premium and Convience Package
Mods: Alta CAI, Whalen, Schroth Harness, S2K Antenna, boost gauge, H-Sport Comp Rear Sway, M7 USS, H-Sport Springs and upper and lower rear camber adjustments, Dinan Stage 4 Software Vroom Vroomwere my first words Learn to drive the line... Not the drivers ed line you hippy!
how did you mount the gauges around the tach/speedo combination? I have only seen gauge mounts for the normal set up with just the tach. I have the combination due to the Chrono package and would love to cleanly mount a boost gauge.
A friend of mine ordered the kit I' writting abou there, and he has the Chrono Pack. It should be all good. We'll install it in the next 2-3 weeks, and I'll post results here!
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2012 Countryman S All4 - Light White, Sunroof, Premium & Cold packages, Xenons, Adaptive lights, and lots of fun!!
I think it helps many people and almost every MCS owner would like to add a boost gauge to their MCS, without drilling holes to their awesome interior!
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2012 Countryman S All4 - Light White, Sunroof, Premium & Cold packages, Xenons, Adaptive lights, and lots of fun!!
YES
I can see them all.
OK I can see 7/8 th of the boost gauge and if you notice thats why it is up-side down.
But that really is a FUN gauge.
I'll try to take a photo holding the camera at EYE level.
This took me quite a bit of work
Basiclly the gauges are all mounted on a flat alum plate (thank you city of C*****D, it was a stop sign).
There are 2 MAIN screws on the back of the speedo / tach. With longer bolts and spacers it works great.
I really should have done a write-up as I did this before all the good info here.
They all work & the gauges come with red light covers...
(I punched a small hole in each and now they are ORANGE and match the other dash lights in color and brightness.
Excellent write-up and how-to! Did the install with a friend this weekend, very pleased with the result. My 15% pulley, etc., equipped car is topping out at 15-16 psi boost. It's a blast watching the needle and knowing when the car is in vacuum and when it is in boost. The gauge looks really cool as well.
Here are a few personal observations: Screw used to attach gauge cup bracket to tach - #8 1 1/2 inches cut down slightly (1 1/4 inch should be just right); I tried two types of supposedly bright amber led 194 bulbs - standard cheapo 5w amber worked the best (I don't really understand this), though being backlit, the gauge is not especially bright at night; several zip ties and some convoluted tubing hid the vacuum line to the gauge real well in the engine compartment; wired to the driving lights switch and ground on a dashboard screw.
This is a great lower cost alternative to the cost of a dual gauge pod plus gauges.
Okay, this is going to sound very stupid to all of you, but I don't understand the process of 'getting power' from one of the wires. I'm assuming you're splicing one of the wires and running one end to the gauge, but how exactly is that done? I've never had to do electrical work, so...