Maintenance :: Changing FRONT Brake Pads for Beginners! - Page 5

mscmagno · #**101** 10-31-2007, 06:00 PM

so i guess that the only way that i can be sure is to bring it to the dealer and have it check, by the way what does the break ipad indicator look like? does it have an icon or does it show on the small screen where temparature or milage is shown?

**OctaneGuy** · #**102** 11-01-2007, 08:35 AM

Although the position is different if you have the OEM nav or not, the symbol is lit on the left here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mscmagno

so i guess that the only way that i can be sure is to bring it to the dealer and have it check, by the way what does the break ipad indicator look like? does it have an icon or does it show on the small screen where temparature or milage is shown?

64guns · #**103** 11-12-2007, 11:43 PM

Great post love the pictures. Wish i had read a bit more about the rear breaks ( some one mentioned that you don't have to remove the caliper hangers for the rear brakes ..... did the right side before reading that doh ). Any how I had a problem with a couple of bolts and seeing as I couldn't put a cheater bar on my ratchet I was about to curse the gods when i remembered the 10% rule. That being you have to remain 10% smarter than the tools your working with. Since I had my car on jack stands I used the car jack to apply the leverage on the ratchet my arms couldn't on a few stubborn bolts. hope this helps some one out.

Ian

06-jcw-s · #**104** 11-23-2007, 11:48 PM

Has anyone done a similar job on a car with John Cooper Works brakes? I started to do the job today but found that the caliper attachment clips are different than others I've seen and I didn't want to break anything.

Any advise would be helpful.

Thanks

David
06JCWS

bhibbert · #**105** 12-05-2007, 11:24 AM

Excellent post Octane and thanks. I am going to change my own pads and rotors after being inspired by this post. Given that I will also change the rotors does anyone know the torque settings for the bolt that holds the rotor and the 16mm bolts that hold the calipers (front and rear)?

Thanks in advance.

**OctaneGuy** · #**106** 12-05-2007, 11:28 AM

Thanks, I just replaced my front pads last week--took me 30 minutes from start to finish to do both--including the time to remove the wheels using hand tools, could have been faster with air tools, lol. I borrowed the shops piston compressor--omg what a difference that makes. It's the style of a gun that you squeeze the trigger, instead of like the HF one that you position, tighten a few turns, reposition, and tighten. The "gun" style took like 3 squeezes. Course it won't help for the rear piston that needs to turn and push, but wonderful for the front.

I still haven't changed my rotors yet--I expect to by my next pad change though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhibbert

Excellent post Octane and thanks. I am going to change my own pads and rotors after being inspired by this post. Given that I will also change the rotors does anyone know the torque settings for the bolt that holds the rotor and the 16mm bolts that hold the calipers (front and rear)?

Thanks in advance.

k_h_d · #**107** 12-05-2007, 11:52 AM

Richard,

How many pad changes have to gone through on your rotors?

**OctaneGuy** · #**108** 12-05-2007, 11:57 AM

I'm at 67,000 miles and on my 2nd set of pads. My old neighbor who was a BMW mechanic said that in general by the 2nd or 3rd pads you should be changing your rotors. If you have a measuring caliper, you can measure the minimum thickness to be sure. I don't remember what it's supposed to be, but it's in the Bentley manual.

Quote:

Originally Posted by k_h_d

Richard,

How many pad changes have to gone through on your rotors?

bhibbert · #**109** 12-05-2007, 09:52 PM

Hey I found the Torque Settings and thought they would be useful as part of this thread...

Front :

disc to hub (torx) : 27 nm
caliper to steering knuckle : 110 nm
guide bolt (7mm) : 25-30 nm
dust shield : 8 nm

Rear :

disc to hub : 27 nm
caliper to trailing arm : 65 nm
guide bolt : 25-30 nm

Clammy · #**110** 01-16-2008, 10:55 AM

Great article! I'm feeling confident enough to try this myself, having done brake jobs before on old American beasts. Has this guide been amended by anyone to include replacing the rotors at the same time?

Frosty

**OctaneGuy** · #**111** 01-16-2008, 10:58 AM

I haven't seen anyone yet do a writeup showing rotor replacement. I figured I would do one as soon as I did mine, but I have yet to replace a rotor!

Richard

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clammy

Great article! I'm feeling confident enough to try this myself, having done brake jobs before on old American beasts. Has this guide been amended by anyone to include replacing the rotors at the same time?

Frosty

Clammy · #**112** 01-16-2008, 11:36 AM

Thanks. I may have to undertake the rotor replacement without such assistance. I'll let you know if there are any horror stories.

Frosty

pdflint · #**113** 01-17-2008, 11:48 AM

I just completed a complete brake overhaul (new pads, new rotors, complete hydraulic system flush). Thanks, OctaneGuy, I found the witeup and pictures extremely helpful. I tried using a "C" clamp as described above to try and compress and rotate the rear caliper pistons, but I had no luck getting anything to move. I went over to my local AutoZone to see if there was anything they had available that would work. Turns out, they stock the Disk Brake Caliper Tool for $35.00. It looks like the same as the kit from Harbor Freight. This particular store also had a kit available to rent. Job went much more quickly with the proper tools.

K_Blax · #**114** 01-19-2008, 12:07 AM

I just need to replace my front pads but want to put a set of EBC GreenStuff Pads on. If I keep the rear stock pads on will this be a problem? Should I replace all the pads if I am upgrading?

Jason C · #**115** 01-19-2008, 11:38 AM

Here you go.
http://store.webbmotorsports.com/for...wtopic.php?t=5

Between yours Richard and Randy's, no one should have any trouble. Great How-To's by by both.

Oh and I did the brake sensor trick for anyone interested and it worked like a charm. Cut the wire, splice the two inside wires together, and presto no warning light.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OctaneGuy

I haven't seen anyone yet do a writeup showing rotor replacement. I figured I would do one as soon as I did mine, but I have yet to replace a rotor!

Richard

rlandrews3rd · #**116** 03-10-2008, 05:08 PM

What a great article! I did my rotors and brakes last weekend, and this was a great help. A big note to all: the front and rear caliper mounting bolts have a different torque setting. The rear is 48 ft/lbs, and the front is 81ft/lbs. Don't put 81 on the back, or you risk having the bolts shear, and then have to frantically call a buddy to help you go get new hardened bolts, and a metric tap/die set to clean out the threads

mellowmcs · #**117** 03-10-2008, 05:31 PM

Great article! I just wanted to add that if you don't have a piece of wood that is thin enough when compressing the front calipers, you can just leave the worn out brake pad on that side and just use that to compress the caliper.

Having done about 30 or so brake pad changes on various BMWs from E30 on up, this is nearly exactly the same as BMW. Except BMW (maybe the newer ones do) doesn't use an auto adjusting mechanism on the rear so you don't need a special tool to compress and turn the rear caliper.

mimilo · #**118** 04-08-2008, 03:31 PM

Hi, thx for this guide.
Today i changed brakes pads, and wire sensors, everything OK! but mi Break pad warning light still on. I need to restart it or something?

Ill apreciate any help.

nuttyme2279 · #**119** 05-07-2008, 02:04 PM

friends of mine told me i should cut or change my roaters is this true?

mellowmcs · #**120** 05-07-2008, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nuttyme2279

friends of mine told me i should cut or change my roaters is this true?

MINI/BMW does not recommend resurfacing (aka cut) the rotors as it may make the rotor too thin (below min. thickness).

Capt_bj · #**121** 05-07-2008, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mellowmcs

MINI/BMW does not recommend resurfacing (aka cut) the rotors as it may make the rotor too thin (below min. thickness).

The minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor. A decent shop would see that, measure and estimate loss from the resurfacing.

MINI/BMW simply recommends replace rotors with the pads. If done under pre-paid maintenance....fine.

I find I can change pads at least once on rotors that are not significantly scored without other treatment. (two sets of pads to one set of rotos..and BTW two sets of fronts to one set of rears)

There are rotors out there that won't break your pocketbook...and the OEM ones ain't bad.

If you follow this DIY, replacing the rotors is a small small addition of labor.........for the fronts I removed two more bolts per side plus the TORX on the rotor. On the rears I only removed the TORX ..the rotors could be swapped .. then the rotor mating services were slathered with a thin coat of anti-seize and everything put back together. Pads vs Pads and rotors for 4 wheels? I'd say less than an additional 15 minutes.

Mini*In*Flux · #**122** 05-07-2008, 05:37 PM

Great write up Richard! The Big Red Jack set is on sale at Pepboys until 5/10/08 (creeper/stands/jack) - just got one!

tsolias · #**123** 05-26-2008, 05:05 PM

Excellent write up. OctaneGuy's wisdom served me well today 3 years after I bookmarked it. I successfully changed my front pads using new OEMs. A couple of notes/warnings:

Use a long 7mm Allen socket like this. I found that my short socket could not comfortably move close to the brake line, and so I slightly damaged one of the screws.
I did not use my jack stands. People may find this dangerous. I figured the jack that comes with the car is good for changing a tire, and a break job is not that much more.
I used the suggested adapter from the harborfreight caliper tool but I found out that since the adapter is not free to move it was scratching against the caliper piston. This is not a big deal but next time I will use the top right adapter as shown here.

All in all I feel very good about the brake job since I have not crashed anywhere yet. I can't wait to try my car on the track.

blownt · #**124** 06-05-2008, 07:14 AM

I have done MANY brake jobs on MANY vehicles and I have NEVER replaced the pads or shoes without having the rotors or drums turned (machined). When you take off the old pads you will notice grooves and ridges on the rotor. You should resurface the rotors to a flat surface for the new pads to seat otherwise you do not get full contact between the pads and rotors. You will have to rely on your brand new pads having to be grooved by applying the brakes to cut the ridges into the new pads to seat against the old rotors. Which in my opinion does not make sense. This is especially the case if you have gone too long and have gone completely thru the abrasive material and into the steel backing of the pad. Once you have metal to metal contact then you will have ALOT of rotor grooving and must likely end up having to replace the rotor. If gone too long it will be to deep to have machined out and the rotor will be passed minimum specs.

If the rotors are too thin to get turned then they need to be replaced anyway. If your going to replace the brake pads you might as well do it right.

justaguyinvegas · #**125** 08-01-2008, 01:49 PM

Thanx Richard! This was a big help. I just did my pads. I was going to do the rotors but I ended up actually twisting a torx driver trying to get one off! I guess I am keeping the old ones on for a while. I may try some nice penetrating oil on them next time.