How To DIY HPFP Replacement - How to replace High Pressure Fuel Pump on MINI Cooper R56 JCW
#76
Thanks for your response. Been down that road of calling the 1-866-275-6464 number today and that is when I was told by the Rep. Andrew that even thought our MC was manufactured in 2009 it is not on the list for approved extended warranty. He asked me for the last 7 characters of the Vin and NO is what he came back with. Do you know if there is a internet site that list the vehicle's by the last 7 characters of the Vin that are approved for the extended warranty or are they keeping those number top secret? The key word on in that 2007 - 2009 is "select" as I am coming to understand.
There is a site for open recalls and service:
http://www.miniusa.com/content/miniu...rt/recall.html
But a MINI dealership can run the VIN and under reports you can see the outstanding reports. If there is none , then you can press the dealership for goodwill out of warranty.
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#77
Guess our local dealership in not much in to a good will nature. They did give us 15% off on the pump but the price was still $955 for the pump and fuel line. Not feeling the good will there. I have seen an email to Mini giving the information about the HPFP failure, 2009 year is was produced, N14 turbocharged engine with 88000 + miles along with the last 7 characters of th Vin. Have asked them if there is is anything they can do to lessen the pain. Told them this vehicle is costing us about $2000 a year in repair bills. Rear door latching mechanism failure, thermostat failure, vacuum pump failure, pcv valve failure with resulted in having to have the walnut blasting job done, the list goes on.
#78
#79
Guess our local dealership in not much in to a good will nature. They did give us 15% off on the pump but the price was still $955 for the pump and fuel line. Not feeling the good will there. I have seen an email to Mini giving the information about the HPFP failure, 2009 year is was produced, N14 turbocharged engine with 88000 + miles along with the last 7 characters of th Vin. Have asked them if there is is anything they can do to lessen the pain. Told them this vehicle is costing us about $2000 a year in repair bills. Rear door latching mechanism failure, thermostat failure, vacuum pump failure, pcv valve failure with resulted in having to have the walnut blasting job done, the list goes on.
#80
So I have a MCS 07 with 100,000 km. I recently got the P3091 code. MINI Canada replaced my fuel pump under the warranty.
I made the mistake of clearing the code with Scanguage and MINI would not perform the warranty unless the code is there. So when you do get codes related to fuel pump, don't clear.
I made the mistake of clearing the code with Scanguage and MINI would not perform the warranty unless the code is there. So when you do get codes related to fuel pump, don't clear.
#81
#82
So I have a MCS 07 with 100,000 km. I recently got the P3091 code. MINI Canada replaced my fuel pump under the warranty.
I made the mistake of clearing the code with Scanguage and MINI would not perform the warranty unless the code is there. So when you do get codes related to fuel pump, don't clear.
I made the mistake of clearing the code with Scanguage and MINI would not perform the warranty unless the code is there. So when you do get codes related to fuel pump, don't clear.
#84
Why the hell is the HPFP over a grand now? That is like 500% increase. wtf?
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#87
Why the hell is the HPFP over a grand now? That is like 500% increase. wtf?
Now searching if there are any recalls for my year Mini. So glad tomorrow is my last day of finals and have some time off before summer classes. I don't have that much disposable money atm. :/
#88
Yeah, mine just went out on my 2013 MCS with about 70k miles. I saw the price in the OP, and was like, heck, I'll repair it myself. I went to the linked site, and saw it's $1k now!
Now searching if there are any recalls for my year Mini. So glad tomorrow is my last day of finals and have some time off before summer classes. I don't have that much disposable money atm. :/
Now searching if there are any recalls for my year Mini. So glad tomorrow is my last day of finals and have some time off before summer classes. I don't have that much disposable money atm. :/
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#89
Amazing writeup. Indeed, I am not going to dealer (they told me around 1900 usd). I am pretty much disappointed with price-up, and the fact I can't use warranty (car isn't under warranty due to title and export).
Anyways, anyone knows how to make sure it's HPFP and not LPFP? Maybe some metrics from INPA or similar, or gauge attached to the line
My symptoms are as follows:
1. Sporadic misfires in all cylinders at cold starts. Sounds like diesel. Only after few attempts it will eventually rev to 1.5 and then come back to normal.
2. At heavy load there are random drops in power (few seconds)
3. Today even at warm engine it would rattle a lot during startup
Any ideas on diagnostics? Just to mention - dealers suck in here. They won't do anything unless it's clear what they can charge, and I had a lot of cases when I had to redo things they messed up.
Unfortunately I couldn't make my INPA work (an issue with med17_2N.ipo that I am unable to find solution for).
PS: it's a MINI Cooper S 2008 R56, 73k miles, exported with "vandalism" title. Some guru tried to fix MULF2 high module, but failed. Mulf and FRM were damaged when I received the car, but price was good enough to cover those (I've paid 2.5 grands for the car on auctions, without clear understanding of the damage). Well, I love this car
Anyways, anyone knows how to make sure it's HPFP and not LPFP? Maybe some metrics from INPA or similar, or gauge attached to the line
My symptoms are as follows:
1. Sporadic misfires in all cylinders at cold starts. Sounds like diesel. Only after few attempts it will eventually rev to 1.5 and then come back to normal.
2. At heavy load there are random drops in power (few seconds)
3. Today even at warm engine it would rattle a lot during startup
Any ideas on diagnostics? Just to mention - dealers suck in here. They won't do anything unless it's clear what they can charge, and I had a lot of cases when I had to redo things they messed up.
Unfortunately I couldn't make my INPA work (an issue with med17_2N.ipo that I am unable to find solution for).
PS: it's a MINI Cooper S 2008 R56, 73k miles, exported with "vandalism" title. Some guru tried to fix MULF2 high module, but failed. Mulf and FRM were damaged when I received the car, but price was good enough to cover those (I've paid 2.5 grands for the car on auctions, without clear understanding of the damage). Well, I love this car
Last edited by imad; 05-28-2016 at 12:55 PM.
#90
Amazing writeup. Indeed, I am not going to dealer (they told me around 1900 usd). I am pretty much disappointed with price-up, and the fact I can't use warranty (car isn't under warranty due to title and export).
Anyways, anyone knows how to make sure it's HPFP and not LPFP? Maybe some metrics from INPA or similar, or gauge attached to the line
My symptoms are as follows:
1. Sporadic misfires in all cylinders at cold starts. Sounds like diesel. Only after few attempts it will eventually rev to 1.5 and then come back to normal.
2. At heavy load there are random drops in power (few seconds)
3. Today even at warm engine it would rattle a lot during startup
Any ideas on diagnostics? Just to mention - dealers suck in here. They won't do anything unless it's clear what they can charge, and I had a lot of cases when I had to redo things they messed up.
Unfortunately I couldn't make my INPA work (an issue with med17_2N.ipo that I am unable to find solution for).
PS: it's a MINI Cooper S 2008 R56, 73k miles, exported with "vandalism" title. Some guru tried to fix MULF2 high module, but failed. Mulf and FRM were damaged when I received the car, but price was good enough to cover those (I've paid 2.5 grands for the car on auctions, without clear understanding of the damage). Well, I love this car
Anyways, anyone knows how to make sure it's HPFP and not LPFP? Maybe some metrics from INPA or similar, or gauge attached to the line
My symptoms are as follows:
1. Sporadic misfires in all cylinders at cold starts. Sounds like diesel. Only after few attempts it will eventually rev to 1.5 and then come back to normal.
2. At heavy load there are random drops in power (few seconds)
3. Today even at warm engine it would rattle a lot during startup
Any ideas on diagnostics? Just to mention - dealers suck in here. They won't do anything unless it's clear what they can charge, and I had a lot of cases when I had to redo things they messed up.
Unfortunately I couldn't make my INPA work (an issue with med17_2N.ipo that I am unable to find solution for).
PS: it's a MINI Cooper S 2008 R56, 73k miles, exported with "vandalism" title. Some guru tried to fix MULF2 high module, but failed. Mulf and FRM were damaged when I received the car, but price was good enough to cover those (I've paid 2.5 grands for the car on auctions, without clear understanding of the damage). Well, I love this car
#91
#92
When the engine starts, the HPFP is mechanically driven by the engine itself so you'll see the pressures jump well above 72psi. When my HPFP was failing, I'd see the fuel rail pressures drop below 100psi and the engine would hesitate and sometimes die. When the pump is "healthy" you'll never see a dip like that.
Given the notoriously high failure rate of the HPFP, your issue sure sounds like you are in the early phases of a failure. If you want to really troubleshoot your fuel system, I highly recommend buying the Bentley service manual which has step-by-step testing procedures for the fuel delivery system. That book has saved me hundreds of dollars so it's well worth the investment.
Good luck!
#93
Just a quick update. I just picked up my car yesterday afternoon. I was at a music festival all weekend from Thursday till Monday. Luckily I was able to get service where I was at, so my service manager was able to get ahold of me or leave messages. Turned out to be a bad turbo and spark plugs. Weird, the plugs I changed out no more than a month ago, but i'm glad it's running like new again.
#94
Thanks for your suggestions
So I was able to use ISTA+ and connect to my DME. It showed this error:
It looks that I indeed need more actual pressure on rail. However, there's no sensor on intake pressure, and as Bentley says, I need to attach mechanical gauge and monitor the intake fuel pressure. Otherwise, there's a risk that HPFP is damaged by LPFP, and I don't want it to happen again with my newly ordered HPFP (well, 690 USD). To observe proper testing procedure, you may refer to this video:
Just some note on DIY. For most of of metallic fuel lines you really need to consider taking a new one, especially if you want to apply the "book" torque on it. Explanation is simple - the torque you need to apply is estimated for NEW screw-threads. Which means, any used thread will not hold same linkage between parts, as it would do on a new one (under same torque). There's always a damage to threads after every use, and this is exactly why manufacturers always demand important bolts to be replaced after disassemble (for instance, engine head bolts).
Another point - the wrenched line is between HPFP and the rail (engine). And line with pin connector is an intake line. To remember it easily - fuel intake pressure is much lower than rail, so pins (loose connection) are only applicable for line that comes from fuel tank. Hope this helps
I will be doing HPFP replace anytime soon, so expect some feedback.
So I was able to use ISTA+ and connect to my DME. It showed this error:
It looks that I indeed need more actual pressure on rail. However, there's no sensor on intake pressure, and as Bentley says, I need to attach mechanical gauge and monitor the intake fuel pressure. Otherwise, there's a risk that HPFP is damaged by LPFP, and I don't want it to happen again with my newly ordered HPFP (well, 690 USD). To observe proper testing procedure, you may refer to this video:
Just some note on DIY. For most of of metallic fuel lines you really need to consider taking a new one, especially if you want to apply the "book" torque on it. Explanation is simple - the torque you need to apply is estimated for NEW screw-threads. Which means, any used thread will not hold same linkage between parts, as it would do on a new one (under same torque). There's always a damage to threads after every use, and this is exactly why manufacturers always demand important bolts to be replaced after disassemble (for instance, engine head bolts).
Another point - the wrenched line is between HPFP and the rail (engine). And line with pin connector is an intake line. To remember it easily - fuel intake pressure is much lower than rail, so pins (loose connection) are only applicable for line that comes from fuel tank. Hope this helps
I will be doing HPFP replace anytime soon, so expect some feedback.
Last edited by imad; 06-01-2016 at 01:59 PM.
#96
With the dramatic price increase on the part, this is ridiculous to replace unless you can find it used or Mini covers it.
Has anyone had any luck at all getting Mini to cover the part even if they are outside of the extended warranty terms? I have a 2010 S with only 60k miles and I need this replaced. I read somewhere that Mini fixed their HPFP with like an 85% discount, even though his VIN did not meet the extended warranty.
I am really really hoping I can get some sort of deal because I have an emissions test this month, and just bringing the car into Mini for diagnosis is $120 so if they won't cut me some deal, I'll be out another $120.
Has anyone had any luck at all getting Mini to cover the part even if they are outside of the extended warranty terms? I have a 2010 S with only 60k miles and I need this replaced. I read somewhere that Mini fixed their HPFP with like an 85% discount, even though his VIN did not meet the extended warranty.
I am really really hoping I can get some sort of deal because I have an emissions test this month, and just bringing the car into Mini for diagnosis is $120 so if they won't cut me some deal, I'll be out another $120.
#97
With the dramatic price increase on the part, this is ridiculous to replace unless you can find it used or Mini covers it. Has anyone had any luck at all getting Mini to cover the part even if they are outside of the extended warranty terms? I have a 2010 S with only 60k miles and I need this replaced. I read somewhere that Mini fixed their HPFP with like an 85% discount, even though his VIN did not meet the extended warranty. I am really really hoping I can get some sort of deal because I have an emissions test this month, and just bringing the car into Mini for diagnosis is $120 so if they won't cut me some deal, I'll be out another $120.
#98
#99
Even though my HPFP wasn't actually bad, it would have been covered under this. The turbo was bad, but as it's part of the emissions system, I didn't pay for it. I believe some emissions parts are covered 10 yrs or 100k miles, or something like that.
#100