It sits immediately next to the belt tensioner. It doesn't matter if the heat shield is in place or not.

 

Lex2008, Thank you, it's hidden a little and right there. Thanks to everyone else as well especially mbwicz for posting the instructions.

 

Well I messed up somewhere. Where the heck does this go? Not the washer.

 

Umm...I have no idea. I don't recognize it. Did you remove parts unnecessarily?

 

Oh wait that looks like a stud for the turbo to downpipe, bit I don't recognize the washers.

 

The brass o-ring looks like the ones for the turbo oil line that sits against the banjo bolt!

 

It does look like the studs for the downpipe but I have 3 of those. I think I have everything put back together. I don't know.

 

Maybe a mechanic left it in there and it dropped out when you started disassembling?

 

Could be. I'm glad you are not recognizing it. Thanks for the replies.

 

Yea, stud and bolt for the turbo to DP. They might have replaced them as its pretty standard also the older ones on my 07' MCS were longer and when I replaced the studs ( all three ) i noticed the new ones were shorter so its easier to get the DP back on. So it helped.

 

Mystery ECS man, the stud isnt the curiosity, its those metal washers. Do you recognize them?

 

Ah i see now. That's the exhaust manifold to turbo stud ( not turbo to DP ) and the nuts.

11657559557




&

11657605340

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657605340/





No mystery

 

So, CORBINS looks like this was an exhaust manifold stud someone left in your engine bay.

Those are some curious looking nuts.

 

OK, thank you ECS. I must have left one out on the bottom since I see the two are installed on the top. I'll remove my DP again tonight and take a look. Thanks again.

 

Ummm....why did you take that side off?

 

Why did I take this off? I assume this is the bolts he is referring to and I'm assuming my extra one must be on the bottom. I have the two on the top installed. Is this not right?

 

There are four studs and four nuts from the turbo to the manifold. Which is the mystery parts .

* When doing the oil cooler housing, you don't take those out, you take out the the 3 studs , 3 nuts from the turbo to the DP .

Turbo to manifold #5 , #13

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_4558


DP top to turbo #3, #4


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=18_0700

 

Where I have the red arrows, I took those out. Maybe I didn't need to.

 

I need some help!! The bad news is I broke the oil filter housing bolt off in the block when I was putting everything back together.

The good news is I was able to unscrew it by hand after I pulled the housing out of the car.

Before I get into what I might of done wrong I need a little help making sure I was using the correct bolt! I have four M6, 1.0 thread bolts that are 1.175" long and have a 8 mm head. That's the bolt that snapped in half. I also realized I have 5 M6, 1.0 thread bolts that are 0.775" long, so shorter, have a 10mm head and say grade 8.8 on the head. These bolts seem stronger and the more logical bolt for the oil filter housing but I think they may be from the heat shield...??

Either I used the wrong bolt or I just need a better torque wrench (and a replacement bolt)...

Here's how it went down: Definitely user error. Because I was using a Harbor Freight 3/8" drive torque wrench and torquing my first bolts for the first time in years!

I was VERY careful and knew I had the wrong wrench for the job. I was targeting 10 ft-lbs which I believed was a bit above the 7.4 prescribed but thought I'd be OK. The top most bolt wasn't torquing to 10 when the others were. I set the wrench to 7.5 and tried again. This time the wrench clicked BUT I was very wary that the bolt's torque might be stripped.

I pulled the bolt and noticed nothing. Well, almost nothing. The bottom half of the bolt's threads looked just a tad wider. I figured it must just be my imagination and so I tried to put it back in.

This time I stair stepped up through 5 ft lbs but I couldn't get the wrench to click at 7.5 ft lbs and so I swapped over to a regular 3/8 drive to see if I could "feel" if the bolt was just spinning or actually getting tighter. Within a quarter turn I could tell it wasn't getting tighter and then it just snapped in half in the block! I pulled everything out and thankfully I was able to extract the bolt by hand.

I ran one of the other bolts through the hole and the threads felt FINE. No resistance by hand, and the bolt bottomed out with 0.35" of thread showing. The housing is about 0.50" wide so I don't THINK I was bottoming out the bolt (aka, using the wrong bolt).

My mind is blown why the HEAT SHIELD would have a larger bolt head than the oil filter housing! Anyone remember if it was in fact an 8mm head on the oil filter housing? Where should I buy a replacement?

As an unrelated question, did anyone other than Lex use gasket sealer or gasket maker when reinstalling these parts? It used it sparingly but it still made quite a mess and I don't reuse it if it's not necessary.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

Go to realoem.com, fill in your car info and you will get diagrams showing which bolts and sizes. When I look there for my R55 Clubman it shows the heat exchanger to oil filter housing bolts are torx with washer M6x16, oil filter housing to engine block are hex bolt with washer M6x30, and it looks like the heat shield takes hex bolt with washer M6x20.

I replaced my turbo oil supply and oil drain lines, heat exchanger gaskets, and oil filter housing gaskets a few months ago and don't remember the bolt sizes myself any more. I did not use any sealant, just the o-rings.

 

Also, not sure if you removed the support (item 14 in this pic) but it takes a couple different bolts too. Realoem.com does not say what size they are.

 

nomar116,

Man I wish I could remember...I would not be surprised if the heat shield bolts were 10mm heads and the oil filter housing were 8mm. There are a lot more heat shield bolts then filter housing bolts and all the heatshield bolts are all the same size with the exception of one large bolt that holds the metal bracket that supports the turbo to the engine block.

Here are some pics of the bolts installed in case it helps.







You probably just over-tightened the bolt. Why don't you just compare the ones you have already installed????? I'm confused by your confusion...

You shouldn't be using a 3/8ths inch torque wrench on such a small bolt anyway Mr.! You're a very naught boy. That's too big. Especially JUNK tools from Harbor Freight. Dont do that to yourself. Its bad for your self-esteem.

I've owned Toyotas whose doors were thinner then the metal on those heat shields. Mini sure does things in its own special way. Over engineered heat shields, under engineered oil seals.

As for the additional sealant, try something a little thinner than RTV Copper. It was a little thick for a part which has bolts which are so lightly torqued and not symmetrically located. Its easy to tighten the top half more than the bottom half and create a small gap in the seal. I posted additional notes on swapping the valve cover gasket in another thread and I used a thinner rubber gasket sealant which would be more appropriate. Cant remember the name of the product.

 

You are welcome.

 

Fingers crossed I'm done with this job (and moving on to others...)!

I definitely over-tightened the bolt causing it to break. Pretty amazing, obviously 7.5 or even 10 ft.lbs is next to nothing, but I am pretty sure this bolt sheered at around 12-15 ft.lbs... My confusion on whether I was using the correct bolt stemmed from how dumbfounded i was that such an important bolt was so small / failed so early AND that the heat shield bolts are larger/higher grade!!

A few lessons learned to share with others, some of these may be obvious or may be restated from earlier peoples suggestions. I can't emphasize how much this forum and this thread helped with this job. I'm hoping my thoughts will help someone else that comes to this job.

1. Downpipe Removal - You must work both above and below the car (I did not put the car in service mode). After removing the upper and lower heat shield bolts remove the upper heat shied only. The lower heat shield will come out more easily if pulled at the same time as the downpipe after you take free it's bolts at the exhaust manifold on top, and the exhaust clamp / mounting brackets at the bottom. Loosen the mounting brackets from the block to get the downpipe out. Once the downpipe is out of the way the lower heat shield will come out easily and you can quickly remove the lower brackets. Reverse these steps for the reassembly!

2. Aux Water Pump Removal - DEFINITELY save the small bolts on the aux water pump until AFTER you have removed all four bolts holding the Oil/Filter Housing from the block. Then pull the oil filter housing off towards the driver side and rotate it to get easier access to the bolts! This makes it so much easier to remove (and reinstall) this aux water pump! I had to do it several times... so I know from experience!

3. Don't over torque! Get a torque wrench that is 20-200 in.lbs or so for this job. I was able to loan one from my local Autozone for FREE. Using a larger torque wrench was a very sad, and dumb, mistake! As a note, I did not use any gasket sealer or maker on my second time installing the oil filter housing. It was a mess to clean off between installs and I decided it may not be necessary.

4. You could consider upgrading the oil filter housing bolts... I did not but thought long and hard. Autozone sells a Grade 10.9 M6x1.0 30mm flange bolt in yellow zinc. They have a four pack that would be easy to find and seems like a perfect fit for this job.

Don't be afraid to do the job, everything you need is in this thread or otherwise linked here! Not for the faint of heart but satisfying to do yourself.

Thanks again for everyone's contributions to help me complete this job.

 

nomar116,

Great summary and great additional list of tips.

Thanks much.