There's a lot of info. about this mod. scattered about, but I didn't see one for the R56N hatchback. I also tried to make this fairly comprehensive. Lots of pictures. Feel free to PM me with any questions or corrections. I hope this helps some folks. Cheers!

 

Cool info, thanks... I want to order this for my JCW. Does the "N" in R56N mean non-turbo???? last time i looked at the Craven Speed site R56N was not in the option list. If you wanting to update the stereo check out my install from Integral Audio. Sound is amazing and not even the dealer knows it's there... :-)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digital...7629768965607/

 

Thanks, StuRat. The "R56N" designation applies to the minor update to the engine starting in (I think) the 2011 MY - they moved the location of the oil pressure sender. Craven lists the R56 and R56N options for the complete gauge kit (here: www.cravenspeed.com/mini-complete-gauge-kit/). I believe you would want the R56 kit. If you're not doing the oil pressure guage, it prolly doesn't matter...

BTW, I followed your link, but all I could see is pics of a Peavey guitar amp... I have the H-K sound system, and I'm not entirely happy w/ it. I am interested in upgrades, so, if you get the chance, please re-post your pics. Cheers!

 

oops... try this link

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digital...7629768965607/

should be my stereo install

 

That worked.
Nice install! Gives me some ideas... ;-)
That was a lot of work - the gauge install will be simple by comparison.

Nice cat and aircraft pix too... <g>

 

oh, and thanks for the info, I'm getting the Boost/ Oil Pressure set. You will love the stereo. It’s pretty expensive but if you talk with any local stereo shop it will cost you probably more for a custom build of this quality and they will try to add a new stereo somewhere with a dash mod kit which I was NOT doing. This kit has everything you need down to the last piece of tape and zip-tie. And it was a blast to install too. I drove it 4000 miles to Minis on the Dragon in South Carolina and couldn’t have done the trip without it. Between the stereo up-grade and the I-pod interface I was in heaven. I freak so many people out because they can’t figure out where the bass is coming from and why it is so crystal clear on the mids and highs!!!!! .lol…… total stealth look.... let me know if you still dont get the link...
stu_ratus@yahoo.com

 

cool, you got it....lol, thanks... cat just had to get in the mix of things...... just glad it wasn’t out in my shop while i was doing the install

 

Here's my contribution on installing the Craven / Marshall kit, focused on how to do a clean install of the wiring without using any wire splices. This was on a 2012 R56 S.

Many thanks to KeithL and RJB.

 

haha love the feline "assistant"

i have a feline "assistant" at the airport

SamTheCat helps with airplane repair, every airplane gets a "cat" scan as SamTheCat crawls around inside the wings and fuselage

scott

 

Nice work, squawSkiBum - and nice doc. on the lighting module too. I added that after the fact, when I discovered how the lighting circuit worked.

 

Does the "factory" gauge kit require all the same underhood work?

 

fred - I'm not familiar with a factory gauge kit - do you have a link?
I prolly would've gone that way if I'd known such a thing was available... :-/

 

The part number for the factory two gauge kit is 62-11-2-149-355($326), the gauges are extra($93 each; Coolant temp #62-11-0-445-458, the other gauges available are torque and G force The two gauge package comes to over $500. The price quoted here are from a two year old catalog, but I think there are listed on the Mini website under accessories. They do not list an oil pressure gauge.

 

Ah so - those are listed as accessories for the Countryman... I guess they'd work for the standard models. However, the picture I found didn't look very stock - black faces w/ black rims. IMO the Cravenspeed setup looks more "stock."

My g/f has a convertible w/ an "openometer" - I'd like to find a coolant temp gauge for the other side of her tach. Unfortunately, the Cravenspeed gauges are smaller than the openometer (I think it's 3" dia.). If anyone knows of a coolant temp gauge that matches the openometer, I'd love to hear about it...

 

Mini makes a one gauge package (coolant temp) for use with the openomter. Check mini accessories on the mini site

 

Yeah, I found that - looks like the same gauge - dark face, dark surround... Looks to be 2 3/4" - smaller than the openometer. :-( Thanks for the heads up, though.

 

Fred - you can always get the module that plugs into OBD and connects to your cellphone via bluetooth, $22 from Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA0U00AF1239

Then spend $5 for the Torque app from the Android store. I got this as well, good cheap fun. Plug and play, though you don't get the look of the gauges. You'll need a cellphone mount as well, Craven has a pretty nice mount.

 

Thanks to links in this thread, installed Marshall oil pressure and coolant temp gauges with Craven flex pod on my 2013 MCS. Nifty looking. Many cuts on hands.

There are issues. The adapter for oil pressure sensor is too long so that cannot fit connector onto factory sensor due to proximity of one of fan supports. Wound up wiring between pins on sensor and female side of connector. Spoke with Kellen about this by phone.

Water temp gauge is reading 240-260 when engine up to normal temp. Have checked for air in system and coolant level. All good. No factory temperature warning. Still need to check resistance across sensor at temperature and ground connection. Noticed today that reading dropped quickly to 220 when I hit Sport button.

Anyone know normal operating temp for N18 2013 engine? Tech at dealer uncertain.

Thoughts on sport button behavior?

Similar experience with reading?

 

Well I can't tell you about the 13 but I have an 09 FJCW and it is steady at 220 -225, got up to 250 one day and instantly the light and dong came on. Took it straight to dealer as I was close by... it was a stuck thermostat. Thanks to gauges, I watch them like a hawk...

Unfortunately I don’t have the Marshalls yet and depend on the Garmin gauge set-up, it’s the poor man’s gauge set-up for the time being….lol

Going to add them to the JCW and GP soon I hope…
Ive been saying that for years….lol... They do look awesome though…

Hope you get it fixed....

 

Hey Gambedegallina - I've never seen my temp. gauge get over 225°, but I have a justa - I'd expect the normal temp. to be higher on an MCS... However, the jump in the temp. when you hit the sport button sounds like it could be a grounding issue - if it happens instantly. On the MCS, the sport button may do something that would affect the engine temp., but I can't imagine that it would be instantaneous, so, once again, I'd make sure you have solid grounds to the sensor and the gauge...

As for the oil pressure adapter, I had the same issue, except in my case, I was able to get away with using one of the two adapter pieces - even at that I had to bend the exhaust shield away from the stock sensor connector... I can't imagine how they expected it to work w/ both pieces installed. I bet it was a real b*tch installing that on an MCS. The engine compartment on those looks real crowded. Good luck!

 

On my 2012, normal op. temp = 215 - 219, w sport on 210

 

OK, community. Have double checked ground for sensor and gauge. No changes. Most intrigued by reduction in temperature reading when Sport engaged. Thoughts? Note had preliminary phone conversations with Craven and Marshall. Have now sent more detailed email. Will report reply.

Why can't an terrace be designed to translate OBD digital info to actuate good looking Marshall gauges?

 

The N18 thermal management has a two step system, normally it runs 215-220 but with spirited driving in Sport mode it will drop to 190-200. This is well known and described in various posts on NAM, do a search.

My 2012 MCS normally runs about 218 on the Marshall gauge, using the Torque app on my phone with an OBD2 - Bluetooth converter I see 221. The difference may be due to different locations of the sensors.

240 - 260 sounds high. Possible causes:

1) It is possible that you got the wrong sensor, the Marshall website says "CAUTION: Electric gauges that require senders must be "matched" with the correct sender. If a sender that does not have the same electrical match is used the gauge will not provide the proper readings and the needle may act erratically. Marshall Instruments electric water temperature gauges include the required sender." So maybe someone at Marshall goofed and put the wrong sender in the box. Or maybe their vendor goofed. Did you get this one? http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/9201.cfm

Interesting if you look at the resistance profiles for the two senders, at 220F the Comp II sender has the same resistance as the SCX sender at ~250F.

2) bad gauge - possible, but not likely. I haven't taken one apart but I have a really good idea of what's inside it, whoever builds the electronics for Marshall would have had to screw up.

3) something is wacky with the thermostat on the engine. It wouldn't be the first time that a Mini had a bad thermostat. Really easy to check with an OBD2 reader.

4) You have a problem in your wiring. The sensors on the Marshall website are negative temperature coefficient, meaning that as temperature increases, the resistance of the sensor decreases. Your temps are reading high, which means you would have to have some wiring flaw that reduced the resistance, some conductive path to ground that isn't zero ohms. This isn't likely but stranger things have happened. Get a digital multimeter and and check the wiring between the gauge and the sensor. First disconnect the sensor and gauge and check for any resistance between each lead and chassis ground. Should be very high (infinite) resistance. Then short the leads together at the sensor and measure again, should be close to zero ohms across the leads but still very high to chassis ground.

After typing all of this and thinking it through my bet is you got the wrong sensor.

 

Thanks for info. I searched the web after my last post and did see the temperature behavior with Sport button. That is off the table.

The sensor looks like the one in the link you sent ( provided by Craven). Working with engineer at Marshall, I shunted a 100 ohm resistor from gauge sensor lead to ground with sensor disconnected and got correct reading of 220 deg. suggesting accurate gauge. I will try your suggestions to test possible sensor/ wiring issue, though I am pretty confident with the wiring. Also, I have an OBD reader (Ultragauge) arriving this week so will be able to see what temp is showing there.

 

OK sounds like the gauge isn't the problem. Next two things I'd try:

1) put the 100 ohm resistor at the end of your wiring under the hood in place of the sensor. If the gauge reads 220 then you know the wiring is OK and it is the sensor.

2) remove the sensor, and go to work with the multimeter, a pot of water on the stove, and a meat thermometer. You can't get to 220 unless you use vegetable oil (want to fry something up later for dinner?) or just use water and check the values up to 200F for approximate agreement with the specs on the Marshall website. Try not to burn yourself, and don't melt any wires.

Based on the info so far my bet is on the sensor.