How To R56 :: Drivetrain :: DIY Water Pump Replacement
#101
Shredding my belt...
I hope someone can help me with a belt problem. For some reason, I'm shredding my belt. I'm on my second shredded belt. Only the furthest edge (maybe 2 ribs) away from the engine is getting shredded. I can't seem to find what's causing it.
The second install, I made sure everything was lined up correctly and it still happened.
I'm at my wits end with this crap.
HELP!
The second install, I made sure everything was lined up correctly and it still happened.
I'm at my wits end with this crap.
HELP!
#102
#103
I found the cause. Apparently, the belt looks to be too wide. The original measures 20 mm and the replacements (one from dealer the other from pepboys) measures about 22mm.
When installed, the belt looks like its properly seated however, the alternator pulley has a lip that pushes the belt towards the tire. When the belt spins, it hangs off the end of the compressor pulley which has the lip on the outside. It stretches and eventually breaks.
Now to find the proper belt.
When installed, the belt looks like its properly seated however, the alternator pulley has a lip that pushes the belt towards the tire. When the belt spins, it hangs off the end of the compressor pulley which has the lip on the outside. It stretches and eventually breaks.
Now to find the proper belt.
#104
What the numbers on the belt, see back a page for example:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...acement-4.html
Also are you on the stock pulleys or did someone change a part at some time?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...acement-4.html
Also are you on the stock pulleys or did someone change a part at some time?
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#105
#106
BTW, you can use a pair of large vice grips to move the tensioner pulley. Just clamp it on the big nut and use a pipe over the vice handle (the one without the lock lever). The longer the pipe, the easier it is to move. Remove the torx screw holding the pipe to the grille and move the the pipe from the intercooler. You don't need to disconnect it where it attaches at the bottom. Just twist it out of the way. It will be tight but there is just enough room to get a finger down there to press the button to lock the tensioner in the up position. Just watch yourself and be careful!!!!
#107
Thanks for the info and update.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#108
Update: The metal impellar water pumps from Febi are on hold right now, we are trying to still get them, as a back up we have them with a metal impeller through HT right now. All the others are still the composite impeller. Hold tight guys.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11517648827/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11517648827/
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#109
Update on the Graf one now comes with a metal impellar/metal housing and upgraded gasket and housing: "Click HERE to shop MINI Cooper Water Pumps"
Free shipping also. 11517550484 or 11517648827 are the same part numbers.
Pictures to be updated soon.
Free shipping also. 11517550484 or 11517648827 are the same part numbers.
Pictures to be updated soon.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#110
#111
You can do it while you are down there and knock it out, if its original and lots of miles, it will be one less thing.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#112
Kinda what I was thinking. This one has 137k so it won't hurt for sure. I'm guessing the tensioner is held on by 3-4 bolts and should come right out while I have access to the water pump. I have done some searching and have not found anything particular for replacing the tensioner just the problems associated with them.
#113
I'll be replacing my water pump this week, it id beginning to drip and lose coolant, I can hear what I assume is the pump chattering as well. for about a month I've had a really brief chatter on cold start, but now I hear it all the time. It increased when the pump started to weep.
The chatter has me wondering about the pully's condition or the friction wheel. but may well just be bearing noise, I haven't really looked very close at them yet, but will need to before I start ordering parts. Any advise or suggestions are appreciated!!
I have a couple of questions, if anyone has any answers.
1st, although I have not checked mine yet, does the pulley usually need to be replaced when the pump is done? I just want to be sure to order everything I may need.
2nd, I have noticed that some of the aftermarket pumps have a longer pully shaft and that seems to cause some issues fitting the pulley back on. does anybody know if this is still true on an R60? I thought I saw it mentioned that there is a bit more room on the big boys.
3rd, how does that POS plastic pipe that runs between the pump and thermostat hold up? I know they get brittle. I replaced mine just under a year ago when I did the thermostat. should I have a spare on hand, or do you guys think it will survive, since it is not very old?
Lastly, I didn't see anyone mention the thermostat. does it need to be loosened up to get the pipe out of the water pump, or can it all be done from the one side?
Thanks anyone who may toss any info my way!
The chatter has me wondering about the pully's condition or the friction wheel. but may well just be bearing noise, I haven't really looked very close at them yet, but will need to before I start ordering parts. Any advise or suggestions are appreciated!!
I have a couple of questions, if anyone has any answers.
1st, although I have not checked mine yet, does the pulley usually need to be replaced when the pump is done? I just want to be sure to order everything I may need.
2nd, I have noticed that some of the aftermarket pumps have a longer pully shaft and that seems to cause some issues fitting the pulley back on. does anybody know if this is still true on an R60? I thought I saw it mentioned that there is a bit more room on the big boys.
3rd, how does that POS plastic pipe that runs between the pump and thermostat hold up? I know they get brittle. I replaced mine just under a year ago when I did the thermostat. should I have a spare on hand, or do you guys think it will survive, since it is not very old?
Lastly, I didn't see anyone mention the thermostat. does it need to be loosened up to get the pipe out of the water pump, or can it all be done from the one side?
Thanks anyone who may toss any info my way!
#114
I replaced the water pump on my 2009 Mini Cooper S following the first post in this thread from 8 years ago. Everything went as said, reasonably easy and did it in about 2 hours. Not bad
Only thing I didn’t remove as mentioned in first post was the piece of the engine mount w the funny hex bolts attached to the block. I was able to get the pump out past that.
Nice write up for an experienced mechanic, I’m sure the rest of this thread had some updates, but I didn’t need them. Lol
Only thing I didn’t remove as mentioned in first post was the piece of the engine mount w the funny hex bolts attached to the block. I was able to get the pump out past that.
Nice write up for an experienced mechanic, I’m sure the rest of this thread had some updates, but I didn’t need them. Lol
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