Just had to replace a front wheel bearing on my 07 MCS. Start to finish the job took less than an hour. Here is how to do it for those who would like to know what is involved before you start.
Tools:
Jack
Jack Stand
1/2" Ratchet
Torque Wrench
13, 16, 17, 21mm 1/2" Drive Sockets
3/4" Ratchet
32mm 3/4" Drive Socket
50mm Torx
Flat Head Screwdriver

Supplies:
New Axle Nut
New Bearing Assembly
Wire or twine to support the caliper

Procedure:
Pry off the cover from the center of the wheel with the screwdriver to expose the lug nuts and the axle nut.
With the car still on the ground, loosen the axle nut and the lug bolts.
Jack the car up and support on a jackstand.
Remove the lug nuts and set the wheel and tire aside.
Use the 16mm socket to remove the two caliper bracket mounting bolts.
Tie the caliper to the spring. If you let it dangle from the brake hose, it could damage the brake pad sensor wires or the brake hose.
Use the 21mm socket to remove the two nuts from the bottom of the lower control arm. The nuts are used to attach the lower ball joint to the control arm.
Slide the ball joint off the studs in the control arm.
Remove the axle nut and push the axle out of hub. Since the ball joint is loose now it will allow you to pull the bottom of the strut assembly away from the axle.
Use the T50 torx to remove the bolt that holds the rotor to the hub and set the rotor aside.
Use the 13mm socket to remove the hub from the strut assembly.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
The hub only goes on one way so if it isn't aligned right you won't be able to put all the bolts in.
Make sure you torque all the bolts and nuts to spec.

 

This was really helpful to know that this is indeed a DIY job (no bearing press required). Can you or someone provide the torque values for each of the fasteners?

 

great information! Thank you so mucH! The problem I am finding is where I can get the bearing assembly other than the dealer for a 2012 r56?

 

Thanks for the DIY, but I still need help. I got everything apart but can't get the control arm to slip off the ball joint stud. Won't budge. I have an '05 so it looks likes it's fused together pretty good. Since i cant get the CA seperated i cant get the alex out,etc. etc.

Suggestions? I really don't want to have to pay for this since it really seems simple.

BTW- I think there's a typo. When you say remove the two 21mm nuts from the bottom of the lower control arm, I think they're 13... Or something similarly small..

 

I swapped out my Hub and I would like to mention that when I removed the brake assembly it was a little stuck so I ended up having to take it apart. Upon re installation of the brake assembly, I had to use the brake kit to reset the master cylinder. If this is a mistake you end up with keep the brake kit at hand!!!!

 

Thx

 

I have a 07 R56 justa, lightly used 50K miles, I'm having what I suspect is some bearing noise from the rear wheels. So I start in to replace the rear wheel bearings, I get everything off on one side and get it all back together to find that my lug bolts will not fit/thread into the new bearing assembly. The new bearing assembly has slightly smaller holes for the lug bolts. The new bearing assembly lines up with all holes, fits nicely, the bolts from the inside holding the bearing assembly to the control arm fit and thread as expected.

Are new lug bolts suppose to come with the assembly? Anyone else run into this? Thanks.

 

Did you happen to get parts for a Gen 1? The lugs are 12mm while the Gen 2 are 14mm.

 

Thanks, That would explain the difference. I'll go back to the auto parts store, and try to get the correct part this time. I suppose when they come in, I"ll have to try threading a lug bolt into it before accepting it.

 

I got all 4 wheel bearings replaced and got rid of the bearing noise, runs smooth. I did the rear bearings a couple of weeks ago, and that went well. No real issues once I got the correct parts. Then I did the front bearings today. No issues mechanically, but I now have the Brake, ABS, Tire Pressure cautions in yellow. I'm thinking it is the speed sensor for one of the front wheels, since that sensor feeds all these functions. But is there a way to either reset this, or troubleshoot this to find out which sensor may be having an issue? Thanks.

 

Did everybody replace the 4 bolts and axle nut when replacing the bearings?

 

I just replaced the Nut, I purchased from BMW.
The bolts were OK.
The Bearing from Can. Tire.

 

My husband is having a hard time getting the bolts off the old hub. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

My husband is having a hard time getting the bolts off the old hub. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Just replaced the front left wheel bearing. The problem I had was trying to get the axle out of the hub. It’s just splined but it was really stuck in there. I tried tapping it out using a BFH but it didn’t budge. In fact it started to mushroom the end of the axle so I had to stop doing that. The metal must be soft kind of soft. Anyway, had to end up buying an 8” puller to get the axle out. I almost broke the puller but the axle finally let loose.

My other tip is take the axle out first before removing the hub bolts. I got the bolts out but it would have been easier with the axle out of the way. I was trying to remove the hub without unhooking the lower controller arm. The axle was so stuck I wasn’t able to try this. The lower controller arm was easy to unbolt anyway. Two 21 mm nuts I believe. BTW I didn’t replace any of the hardware. Didn’t see any reason to. None were rusted or damaged.

I bought the part here for $134 + shipping. Worked great and the noise is gone. Thought the $210 or more for the mini part was too much. Glad it’s fixed but disappointed it went bad with only 56,000 miles.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31226776162/

BTW, I read this tip in another post. If you are unsure which wheel bearing is bad drive the car so you can hear the noise. Turn/jerk the wheel left and if the noise goes way the bad bearing is on the left side. Alternatively if you turn the wheel left and the noise get louder then the bad bearing is on the right side. If you turn the wheel right and the noise goes away the bad bearing is on the right side. Hope that makes sense. Worked well for me. Confirmed my suspicion.

 

Yea, get the axle out of the hub first. It will give better access to the bolts. You'll need to remove the two nuts on the bottom of the lower controller arm near the ball joint to get the axle out.

The hub bolts are 13mm. Spray them with penetrating oil and use a bigger (longer handle) ratchet or a cheater bar for more leverage. Mine came out without much trouble. If they are really stuck give the oil some time to work so you don't strip them. Also a 6 point socket will help to keep them from striping.

 

Hi my mechanic used his Oxy-Acetylene torch to slightly heat them up one at a time.
Then used an air gun.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the mention. Glad you got it fixed.

 

One thing to add as I see others had this issue as I did also.

The axle wouldn't move at all even trying everyone's tricks and ideas for a couple hours.

Ran out to autoparts store and they didn't have a puller available, and the one they showed me looked like it wouldn't work well anyway.


I highly recommend having this 3 jaw puller on hand available to you.
Both of my axles wouldn't move out of the Hub.
http://www.harborfreight.com/Three-J...-Pc-69105.html


The Pittsburgh 6inch 3 jaw puller did the trick perfectly.

Good Luck to everyone out there.

 

Old post but someone might use the lessons learned from my endeavors.

Use impact sockets as they are harder material.

I rounded off one bolt, tried PB Blaster, a torch, a number of random sockets all to no avail. I even sawed off a chunk of the old hub and all but 2 threads of the bolt and it still wouldn't back out. THEN I tried the impact socket and it worked like a champ and probably would have worked from the start.

 

 

Good thread, I may need it. May just be whining new front tires; noise began immediately after install - sounds more like road whine than a bearing - will rotate them tomorrow and see what's what.

 

BTW the instructions on how to do this job on this forum have an error: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...earings-431176


The torque spec for the 4 bolts holding the bearing assembly onto the steerinf knuckle/hub are not 40 ft lbs but rather, 20 nm or 15 ft lbs plus 90 degrees more.

As usual Mini asks to change the bolts, but I reused.



I also strongly recommend removing the pinch bolt for the strut and removing the entire steering knuckle and wheel bearing assembly so that you can more easily get the 13mm socket onto the 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing to the knuckle and so you don't damage the CV boot.

I ended up putting tiny slits into both darn outer CV boots trying to squeeze the 13mm sockets onto the wheel bearing nuts while the knuckle was still attached to the suspension strut. Don't risk damaging those boots because its $20 per side for the boot and grease. The driver's side boot is particularly easy to damage because the CV joint goes in at an angle and makes accessing the 4 bolts harder/tighter.

Also Beck Arney 103-0504 axle nut is cheap at Rock Auto. $3 plus shipping.

MOOG 513309 Front Wheel Bearing worked on my 2008 R56 Cooper S. $99 on Amazon.

See: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cooper-s.html