Sorry I haven't updated this yet. I have put about 7,000 miles on the MINI since I swapped the chain tensioner and it is still going well. It is starting to get cold here in Indiana. A few times I think I've heard a hint of the rattle, but not sure and definitely much better than it used to be.

I must of done something wrong that I struggled so much to screw in the tensioner itself. I'd consider myself to be average strength for a 29 year old and had a very hard time pushing the tensioner in and turning it at the same time. Like I said it seems to be okay now though. Could have been the way the engine shut off and left the back side of the chain under tension...who knows?

I did get the part from parts.com I had to email them then called to order it. The shipping paperwork listed it as a BMW part when I got it. I think everyone here is finding the right part under BMW.

Eric

 

I had my tensioner replaced at about 15k miles on my '08 MCS. At 48k now and the sound is coming back (not loud, but noticeable). Today I started the car up at work after it had sat all day in the lot (67 degrees F) and it made the sound. Stopped by the dealer on the way home and have an appt for Wednesday. Supposedly they are going to change the chain, tensioner, etc....we will see.

Good to know that changing out the tensioner is not rocket science and that you have documented this here for future reference. Hope I don't need it, though.

 

For those of you who have purchased the -551 chain tensioner, did it always come packaged with a crush washer? If not, does anyone have the P/N for the washer?

 

Yes it does! All BMW tensioners include the washer in their packaging. But if you want to order it separetely, it must be P/N 11317631972, i.e. the same as the old one.

 

Alex - Thanks for BOTH answers!

 

According to an August 2011 MINI USA TSB the latest timing "chain tensioner seal ring" is new and it's part number is 11 31 7 507 432. I tried to get one from my dealer and he didn't have that part in stock. See S1 M11 02 07 to verify this information.

 

FYI for those swapping out their own tensioners. Don't believe this is a simple job. No, it's not really all that hard, but everyone's car is different and as I found, not a cookie cutter job. When you start loosening hose clamps, you'll see what I mean. They are never turned the right direction to get a socket or God forbid, a flat head screwdriver on them. There is VERY little room to work also. I am mechanically inclined, and it took me about an hour and 20 minutes. So, if you have the patience and some mechanical know how, go for it. Just don't expect it to be a simple as other's have made it seem. Just my observation...

 

I've been reading more of the chain tensioner threads, and some other threads that relate to the tensioner loosening up and causing sudden, massive oil leaks.

What material is the chain tensioner seal ring made of? Solid aluminum? Aluminum / composite? Copper?

I wonder if the coefficient of expansion on the seal material over numerous heat and cooldown cycles causes the tensioner to loosen up, even if it has been torqued properly.

 

Yeah the camshaft position sensor is right by the tensioner, could have pulled on the cables by accident, Check them to be fully inserted into the harness as it is notoriously flimsy.

Done this myself as well when i installed the hotside pipe.

 

From what I've read on these forums, a few N-14 engines were assembled with improperly torqued timing chain tensioners.

It isn't hard to reach to check the torque. It takes a 27mm socket and torque it to 65nm

Here is a link to a thread describing how to replace it.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html

Dave

 

Tried to relay that in another thread. +1

 

If your referring to the sensor right next to the timing chain tensioner, as in the image below:





This is not the camshaft position sensor, it is actually the electro/hydraulic vanos control solenoid, sorry for being pedantic, the camshaft position sensor is located on the camshaft cover.

And here is the camshaft position sensor, in situ, on the camshaft cover, circled in Red.

 

Touche my good man... The code it threw was Camshaft a sensor, guess its a bmw specific code translated generically.

+1 czar for more knowledge, your making my brain bigger

Crazy how flimsy this lil bugger is in regards to how the wires fit inside the harness

 

HELLO EVERYONE!, question about chain tensioner and engine type. I have a 2008 mini cooper base (not S) automatic, but having the same rattling issue at cold start, do i use the same part number as the one stated in this thread or it will be a different part number? i called MINI dealer and they are giving me the old part number 11-31-7-597-895 and they know nothing about the new part number 11-31-7-607-551. should i use the old part number which is the one that dealer is giving me or use the new one from parts.com? also what kind of engine do i have? r56, r57, or something else? again its a 2008 mini cooper BASE (NOT S) thanks to everyone in advance.

 

You have a MINI model R56 with N12 engine. The Cooper S hatchback is still a R56 with N14 engine. Newer 2010s are R56N (or LCI) with N16/N18 engines respectively.

Your chain is different to the N14 cars, as yours have Valvetronic. The tensioners are however the same so you could use the replacement part. Problem is, how sure are you that the chain is your problem? If not totally, then you may overstress the chain by fitting the longer tensioner. I am not aware of Justa's exhibiting the problem...

Your dealer was right, the longer tensioner is only a replacement part fitted to cars with problems. It was never fitted on the production line and it is not included in the official part catalogues, only in the TSBs.

 

I don't think your car with the N12 engine is covered by the August 2011 TSB I have obtained a copy of, it covers only the N14 engine prior to May 4, 2009. I am not positive on this but I think that the 11-31-7-597-895 tensioner is a superceeded part from what was originally installed in the car. Earlier TSB's regarding the N14 problem were replacing the original tensioner with the 11-31-7-597-895 so that may do the trick for you. The only way to tell for sure is to remove the old tensioner and look at the part number stamped on the part. I hope this sheds some light on your problem.

 

What is a TSB? so you mean the 11-31-7-597-895 is the updated one for my car? (r56 n12) and not to use 11-31-7-607-551? is that correct?

Alexs3d2.. my car makes the same noise every morning but not too loud yet, its the same noise as the the videos found in this forum.

 

kukaepe
.. so you mean that the part number 11-31-7-597-895 is the right one for my car? and not to use part number 11-31-7-607-551.?? will this art number 11-31-7-597-895 fix my cold start knocking ratling issue?

alexs3d2
.. my car makes the same noise as shown in this thread, not too loud yet so i wanna anticipate it from getting worse, especially after letting it sit for 2-3 days thenyou can really hear the first 10 seconds then the knocking rattling noise will lessen as the engine gets hot and eventually go away after a few mins.

 

zato1980: The technical service bulletin (TSB) I have a copy of is NOT for the N12 engine so I would NOT use the 11-31-7-607-551 tensioner unless it is called to be used in the N12 engine by another TSB specifically for that engine. The 11-31-7-597-895 tensioner was a recommended part by previous TSB's for the N14 engine, so again I would not use it on a N12 engine unless a TSB specifically for the N12 says to do so. These two engines are similar but I think you need to rely on MINI to recommend what part should be used in your engine to be safe. Do you have a MINI dealer that you trust to advise you on this matter? You are out of warranty (I assume) so the repairs will be on your dime but gambling on the correct timing chain tensioner could have significant negative results if you go with the wrong part. I have a great Service Adviser at my local MINI dealer that I can ask about this issue but it may be next week before I can get back to you. Changing the tensioner isn't that difficult but you really want to be sure you are installing the correct part. I'll look into it further and get back to you next week.

 

Kukaepe: I would really appreciate if you can do that for me. I have 3 dealers around me in 30 miles radius and they are not that helpful at all. Irvine mini doesn't even want to give the part number but they gave me the price, Long Beach mini gave me a wrong part number "3 TIMES" and when i took it in there for rattling noise i was told it's normal and not too worry about it and the best part is when i got home and looked at the papers they gave me, it's not documented that i complained about it. Alexander mini good as far as talking to them over the phone. I will be waiting for your post
Kukaepe. And again thanks again.

 

The 11-31-7-597-895 chain tensioner is a newer part number replacing all previous tensioners for all the engines. You can do the cross-reference in realoem. This tensioner is also suitable for the newer N16 and N18 engines. I dont know if it started life as a remedy for the chain problems of the N14 engine, but if it is listed in realoem, then it means it is also used by the factory.

The 11-31-7-607-551 tensioner is another story altogether, as it is not listed in the parts catalogue and only mentioned in the TSB for the N14 engine with a stretched chain (If a new chain is fitted then the tensioner should only be 895 NOT 551). Also bear in mind, that the best solution is to have the chain sprockets and tensioner replaced. The real problem is the chain itself and not the tensioner, but it is much cheaper for BMW to just issue a longer tensioner that keeps the chain tensioned.

PS: The TSB can found here

Update: Sorry, I entered wrong code for the link...:S

 

zato1980: I just got back from talking to my Service Adviser and parts guy at the local dealership and this is what I learned: 1) It is unusual for the Cooper (N12 engine) to have these problems. My SA could not remember an instance when the N12 had this timing chain rattle problem. 2) The 11-31-7-597-895 timing chain tensioner is the correct part for your N12 engine and as alexs3d2 stated it is the superceeded part for all N12,N14 and N18 engines. I think you would be safe to replace your current timing chain tensioner with the 895 part and be sure that is the correct part. I would not use the extended "nose" 551 tensioner given the info I learned from my SA. The 895 tensioner is less than $100 so for that $ and a couple hours of your own labor I would think it a reasonable gamble. If you still have the noise after installing the new 895 tensioner then perhaps it's time to have the car looked at by a MINI dealer or MINI specialty shop. I would be sure to tell them that it has a new, latest revision, stock tensioner installed if you wind up in that place so they won't replace a brand new part. I hope this helps you with the issue you are having.

 

Kukaepe
i will go ahead and replace the tensioner with the new one (895) its worth the gamble than being sorry. I will keep you guys posted and will probably get it done this weekend. Again thanks everyone for the help. And you kukaepe for taking some time and ask the dealership, that was really nice of you thanks again. I will post the result on saturday or sunday.

 

+1 to eric0919 for the fine pics and descriptions here --

My '07 R56S (N14 engine) has 40K miles, and I performed the tensioner-replacement with the 11-31-7-607-551 part this afternoon after a buddy said "you've got the rattle" ... no noticible noise reduction right now, but it WILL be COLD here soon, and we'll see what comes of it --

 

I just replace my tensioner this weekend with the newer part number 895 and problem is FIXED :-):-):-):-) no more noise in the morning. Thanks everyone. I will keep this posted if as miles go up.