How To Steering :: Power Steering Pump removal instructions
#1
Steering :: Power Steering Pump removal instructions
I have checked numerous threads here in NAM and other sites to figure out how to remove the PS pump. While I was removing mine, I had to continuously jump from one thread to the next in order to get good instructions. So, instead of having to jump around for information, I decided to try and condense it here. The following set of instructions are taken from different sources (NAM, Mini2.com, BBC, etc) The photos are numbered for the corresponding instruction.
1. I used my Shop Vac to suck as much of the fluid from the reservoir.
2. Disconnected the low pressure hose from the reservoir (the one toward the front) and again used the Shop Vac to suck the fluid from the hose. (I didn't get very much out)
3. Remove the cooling fan for the pump. (2 13mm nuts) To complete the removal you'll have to disconnect the wire connector, easy release by pushing the lever on the side.
4. Remove the two 13mm bolts from the backside of the pump. This is pretty much blind, unless you have some sort of mirror or freakishly small head. You have to come from the backside of the cross memeber and they are at the bottom of the steering rack. You should be able to feel them. The exhaust down pipe made one of them a little tough to get at, but not bad.
5. The high pressure hose is a solid metal tubing that is bolted to the pump with a 13mm bolt. It is a little tight, but you can get it unbolted. There is an o-ring type of press fit for this connection, which you will have to overcome to get it released. Carefully pry it apart. Some fluid will drain out.
6. Remove the 13mm nut holding the front of the pump down, roughly in between the two that held the fan in place.
7. Now it is just a matter of sliding and twisting the pump around until you can get the pump out. Having the low pressure hose attached made this slightly more difficult, but also made it cleaner. It is also fairly difficult to get the low pressure hose off of the pump while it is on the car.
8. Lastly you can now release the two electrical connections and the pump will be free after you cut the nylon zip ties holding the wires to the bracket.
9. The pump is connected to a bracket which will not come with a new pump, and probably should be removed before sending in to rebuild.
10. Now just reverse this process to install.
11. Dont forget to fill the tank, cycle the steering back and forth (Some have said to do this if your car is still on jack stands and another has mentioned to using glossy magazines under the tires - anything that makes it effortless for the pump to turn the wheels is good).
BBA-Remanufactured pumps have been suggested by numerous Mini owners on NAM. They are currently charging 160 UK pounds and they come with a 2 year warranty: http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/D...ledProduct=920
CarSteering.com is currently charging $395 for a re-manufactured pump that comes with a 3 year warranty. http://www.carsteering.com/
Or you can just check EBay out and find a deal: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...ower+steering+
If anyone can find a better pump with a longer warranty on it make sure you post it so we can save a few bucks for those mods that are need the most....Sprint booster, etc....
1. I used my Shop Vac to suck as much of the fluid from the reservoir.
2. Disconnected the low pressure hose from the reservoir (the one toward the front) and again used the Shop Vac to suck the fluid from the hose. (I didn't get very much out)
3. Remove the cooling fan for the pump. (2 13mm nuts) To complete the removal you'll have to disconnect the wire connector, easy release by pushing the lever on the side.
4. Remove the two 13mm bolts from the backside of the pump. This is pretty much blind, unless you have some sort of mirror or freakishly small head. You have to come from the backside of the cross memeber and they are at the bottom of the steering rack. You should be able to feel them. The exhaust down pipe made one of them a little tough to get at, but not bad.
5. The high pressure hose is a solid metal tubing that is bolted to the pump with a 13mm bolt. It is a little tight, but you can get it unbolted. There is an o-ring type of press fit for this connection, which you will have to overcome to get it released. Carefully pry it apart. Some fluid will drain out.
6. Remove the 13mm nut holding the front of the pump down, roughly in between the two that held the fan in place.
7. Now it is just a matter of sliding and twisting the pump around until you can get the pump out. Having the low pressure hose attached made this slightly more difficult, but also made it cleaner. It is also fairly difficult to get the low pressure hose off of the pump while it is on the car.
8. Lastly you can now release the two electrical connections and the pump will be free after you cut the nylon zip ties holding the wires to the bracket.
9. The pump is connected to a bracket which will not come with a new pump, and probably should be removed before sending in to rebuild.
10. Now just reverse this process to install.
11. Dont forget to fill the tank, cycle the steering back and forth (Some have said to do this if your car is still on jack stands and another has mentioned to using glossy magazines under the tires - anything that makes it effortless for the pump to turn the wheels is good).
BBA-Remanufactured pumps have been suggested by numerous Mini owners on NAM. They are currently charging 160 UK pounds and they come with a 2 year warranty: http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/D...ledProduct=920
CarSteering.com is currently charging $395 for a re-manufactured pump that comes with a 3 year warranty. http://www.carsteering.com/
Or you can just check EBay out and find a deal: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...ower+steering+
If anyone can find a better pump with a longer warranty on it make sure you post it so we can save a few bucks for those mods that are need the most....Sprint booster, etc....
Last edited by DMBFan2; 02-05-2010 at 10:33 AM.
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Charlie Victor (10-27-2017)
#2
Here is a close up of the rear PS bolts and what your PS fluid should NOT look like. This is from an 03 Mini with 45k miles on it. My wife drives it to work and home...that's all....a total of 15 miles a day (+/- 2 miles). Healthy PS fluid is green in color....reminds me of mouthwash! mmmmm...... fresh breath...tastes good too
Last edited by DMBFan2; 02-05-2010 at 10:35 AM.
#4
To make your instructions more complete, I might suggest you consider adding the following items to your OP list to make it more comprehensive:
1. Did you put your MINI on ramps, jack stands, or a lift to gain access to the pump?
2. Describe the technique you used to remove the OEM clamps from the low pressure hose, what sort of clamps you used as replacements, and where you bought them
3. Did you replace the O-ring on the high pressure connection with a new replacement? If so, what size is it and where did you get it?
4. I seem to recall reading that the hole accommodating the 13mm nut for the front of the pump needing a bit of elongation to get the thing mounted again -- I take it you had no difficulty?
5. I think your Steps #10 and #11 are reversed
6. Might want to include a reference to the specified PS fluid (Pentosin CHF 11S) for completeness, and perhaps where you purchased yours.
Appreciate your efforts in trying to consolidate all of the EHPS pump DIYs.
1. Did you put your MINI on ramps, jack stands, or a lift to gain access to the pump?
2. Describe the technique you used to remove the OEM clamps from the low pressure hose, what sort of clamps you used as replacements, and where you bought them
3. Did you replace the O-ring on the high pressure connection with a new replacement? If so, what size is it and where did you get it?
4. I seem to recall reading that the hole accommodating the 13mm nut for the front of the pump needing a bit of elongation to get the thing mounted again -- I take it you had no difficulty?
5. I think your Steps #10 and #11 are reversed
6. Might want to include a reference to the specified PS fluid (Pentosin CHF 11S) for completeness, and perhaps where you purchased yours.
Appreciate your efforts in trying to consolidate all of the EHPS pump DIYs.
#5
I'll fill in the blanks that Gil requested...
1.) I put mine up on ramps from Wal-mart - enough room to work, but more would be better... my assistant (my son who does collision repair) recommended lifting it higher with a floor jack and then placing on jack stands, but we worked with what we had.
2.) We opened the OEM clamps with a flat bladed screwdriver and then cut them off with a pair of side cutters. They were replaced with standard screw-type clamps we bought at Napa.
3.) I did not replace the O-ring... I was very careful to not damage it in the removal process.
4.) I did not elongate or slot the bolt hole, but definitely see the benefit to having it done for future ease of removal and replacement.
5.) I would recommend replacing the pump then re-filling the fluid .
6.) I used the Pentosin CHF 11S found at my local Napa store - $20/liter...
7.) We rolled the mini off the ramps onto stacked magazines - cycled the steering, then started the car and repeated several times to fully bleed the system.
My replacement took approximately 4 hours start to finish - no reason to hurry and in the end no leaks and all worked as expected.
I hope this helps...
1.) I put mine up on ramps from Wal-mart - enough room to work, but more would be better... my assistant (my son who does collision repair) recommended lifting it higher with a floor jack and then placing on jack stands, but we worked with what we had.
2.) We opened the OEM clamps with a flat bladed screwdriver and then cut them off with a pair of side cutters. They were replaced with standard screw-type clamps we bought at Napa.
3.) I did not replace the O-ring... I was very careful to not damage it in the removal process.
4.) I did not elongate or slot the bolt hole, but definitely see the benefit to having it done for future ease of removal and replacement.
5.) I would recommend replacing the pump then re-filling the fluid .
6.) I used the Pentosin CHF 11S found at my local Napa store - $20/liter...
7.) We rolled the mini off the ramps onto stacked magazines - cycled the steering, then started the car and repeated several times to fully bleed the system.
My replacement took approximately 4 hours start to finish - no reason to hurry and in the end no leaks and all worked as expected.
I hope this helps...
Last edited by ikappedkermit; 02-05-2010 at 12:57 PM. Reason: personal spelling police... :)
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Charlie Victor (10-27-2017)
#7
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#8
The following users liked this post:
Charlie Victor (10-27-2017)
#9
#12
Running all the time? Noooo that would kill the battery quick! I am not sure what the temp should be however I do know that it should not run all the time. You may need a new PS fan or a new PS pump. Maybe one of the wrench heads here can fill in the blanks.....
If you have to replace the pump then maybe run a PS cooler as well. you can find them anywhere and they seem simple to install.
Here are a few sites to check out:
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/pscool.html
http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...181#post474181
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30103009
#13
This may or may not be the answer: the fan that lies below the pump can malfunction and run continuously - draining the battery in the process and potentially FUBAR'ing the wiring harness - but if it is caught early on, it can be simply unplugged - not much chance for damage if the fan is replaced. The pump runs whenever the motor is on - you should hear the signature whine letting you know it's there and doing its job...
#14
I managed to get the PS pump out today. I would say it took about an hour and a half. An hour and twenty minutes was just trying to get the pump out. what a PIA. I hate to think what it going to take to get it back in. I pasted the link below of the company I am going to go through to rebuild mine. I actually got it off ebay. $200 includes shipping. I spent an extra $40 to speed up the shipping.
http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/I...x?category=724
it was easier to buy it off of ebay but not sure how long this link will last.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/I...x?category=724
it was easier to buy it off of ebay but not sure how long this link will last.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
#15
This may or may not be the answer: the fan that lies below the pump can malfunction and run continuously - draining the battery in the process and potentially FUBAR'ing the wiring harness - but if it is caught early on, it can be simply unplugged - not much chance for damage if the fan is replaced. The pump runs whenever the motor is on - you should hear the signature whine letting you know it's there and doing its job...
#16
If the trouble was getting the pump high enough for the bolt to clear the sub-frame (i know mine was a major pain) you may want to slot the hole in order to simplify the re-install... that way the pump slides back into place without alot of pry-barring, sweating and swearing (i did alot of all three)
#17
If the trouble was getting the pump high enough for the bolt to clear the sub-frame (i know mine was a major pain) you may want to slot the hole in order to simplify the re-install... that way the pump slides back into place without alot of pry-barring, sweating and swearing (i did alot of all three)
#18
"I managed to get the PS pump out today. I would say it took about an hour and a half. An hour and twenty minutes was just trying to get the pump out. what a PIA. I hate to think what it going to take to get it back in. I pasted the link below of the company I am going to go through to rebuild mine. I actually got it off ebay. $200 includes shipping. I spent an extra $40 to speed up the shipping."
Once you "get familiar" with the removal of the pump, installation is easy. You shouldn't have to drill or cut anywhere. It goes in the same as it came out. A tip though: Don't tighten all of the bolts until the very end. I found this to be a little easier.
Also, while your digging around a PS fluid cooler would be a good idea. That way the fan doesn't have to turn on that much (if at all) and it would extend the life of the PS pump (if its a heat issue that "eats" through these). Installing one now would be much cleaner to just add the cooler than to install it later. I am sure your local NAPA or auto parts store can help you out with locating a small cooler (like an oil cooler or something). Sure you'll have to make some modifications to the high pressure (HP) fluid line, but that should be simple. Maybe if you took measurements of the bolt that is attached to the HP fluid line, they could locate a female adapter for it and a way to secure it to the fluid line.
Will you keep your old pump? If so, get it rebuilt from a quality shop and box it up. That way you'll always have an extra. These pumps are a known issue with Mini's.
If you have to send the old one back to BBA make sure that you compare the two side by side. You'll notice that there is a steel bracket on the side that you need to take off and put on your new one.
Once you "get familiar" with the removal of the pump, installation is easy. You shouldn't have to drill or cut anywhere. It goes in the same as it came out. A tip though: Don't tighten all of the bolts until the very end. I found this to be a little easier.
Also, while your digging around a PS fluid cooler would be a good idea. That way the fan doesn't have to turn on that much (if at all) and it would extend the life of the PS pump (if its a heat issue that "eats" through these). Installing one now would be much cleaner to just add the cooler than to install it later. I am sure your local NAPA or auto parts store can help you out with locating a small cooler (like an oil cooler or something). Sure you'll have to make some modifications to the high pressure (HP) fluid line, but that should be simple. Maybe if you took measurements of the bolt that is attached to the HP fluid line, they could locate a female adapter for it and a way to secure it to the fluid line.
Will you keep your old pump? If so, get it rebuilt from a quality shop and box it up. That way you'll always have an extra. These pumps are a known issue with Mini's.
If you have to send the old one back to BBA make sure that you compare the two side by side. You'll notice that there is a steel bracket on the side that you need to take off and put on your new one.
#19
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Power steering fan
I have a question. I put the new pump on I replaced the fan i know the fan works I have jumped it to the battery. I still have it up on blocks and when i turn the car on the fan doesnt come on???? I turned the a/c on still nothing... the radiator fan does come on. I have checked all the 5 amp fuse's still not sure which one it is suppose to be but I checked the ones under the hood and under the drivers side. Still the fan does not come on. Am I missing something? I just dont want to drive it in fear of tearing up a brand new power steering pump. Please what do I do?
#20
I have a question. I put the new pump on I replaced the fan i know the fan works I have jumped it to the battery. I still have it up on blocks and when i turn the car on the fan doesnt come on???? I turned the a/c on still nothing... the radiator fan does come on. I have checked all the 5 amp fuse's still not sure which one it is suppose to be but I checked the ones under the hood and under the drivers side. Still the fan does not come on. Am I missing something? I just dont want to drive it in fear of tearing up a brand new power steering pump. Please what do I do?
#21
I am not an expert on this (experts...this is your cue to chime in...) but.....I believe the fan is connected to a thermostat that turns it on when tripped. Maybe drive it a bit, get out and check it while the car is running (just don't use your hand to feel if its on)
It is still cool enough outside that you won't burn out the pump.
It is still cool enough outside that you won't burn out the pump.
#22
Got my PS pump back in today. Everything seems fine but I am still concerned about the fan. I haven't seen it come on yet. Not sure at want temp it comes on at and its only 50 degrees out. Re installing it wasn't as bad as taken it out. I didn't cut the slot but it sure would of made it easier. I highly recommend http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/I...x?category=724
I spent a total of $240 to ship mine back and have it rebuilt and that included shipping. 2nd day air. It only took 4 days total. They ended up shipping same day air even though I only paid for 2nd day air. That was nice of them. It also has life time warranty.
I spent a total of $240 to ship mine back and have it rebuilt and that included shipping. 2nd day air. It only took 4 days total. They ended up shipping same day air even though I only paid for 2nd day air. That was nice of them. It also has life time warranty.
#23
My PS pump replacement experience
PS pump replacement in a 2004 MC Sm with 62000 miles, tonight. 3.5 hrs start to cleanup.
Carquest had the correct fluid for $17.82 per liter. Bought two, so of course it took less than one liter to fill the whole system.
Great hints above, thanks to all.
Two things that I ran into that might help others.
First: For some reason I had it in my head that the two rear bolts would be vertical. They aren't, they are horizontal running back to front. Couldn't see them, but when I finally realized which way they were oriented I could feel them. A 13mm on a 1/4 inch drive 3 inch extension was the ticket.
Second: For me, the key to gettting the pump out was removing the high pressure line and moving the part that hooks to the pump forward and out of the way, the hose that runs vertically up to the tank was just popped off to the back. By twisting the pump slightly counter clockwise (when lying under it) and then lifting the left hand side (driver side in U.S.) slightly before rocking/priying the front bolt up and out. Once the motor front bolt was out, the motor needs to be slid to the left so the right side of the mount slips out from under the transmission mount dogbone, the front then gets tipped down so the plugs where the wires connect can slip under other parts. The challenge seemed to be that the motor mount is a close fit with the transmission mount and the right hand side of the motor can't be lifted when it is in the position it normally sits. Tight but relatively easy and only took 2-3 minutes of fiddling. Guess I got lucky!
Also, I don't remember if it was mentioned before, but you should have a T-40 to remove the mount from the old power steering pump and put on your new one.
My cooling fan is shot too, so I will order one next and install as soon as it gets here. I tried to spin it and if moved and sounded like there is gravel in it. I guess it hasn't worked in a while.
Anyway. If anyone needs help around southeast Massachusetts/Cape Cod, I bet it could do it in 2.5 hrs next time. Ok, never mind about the Cape. I now live in San Pedro, CA but I am still willing to help if anyone is feeling less than brave about their wrenching skills. BTW my help will consist of mostly coaching because I think everyone should have some confidence in themselves and fixing your own car is sure to instill some confidence. I can bring the tools though. :-)
Carquest had the correct fluid for $17.82 per liter. Bought two, so of course it took less than one liter to fill the whole system.
Great hints above, thanks to all.
Two things that I ran into that might help others.
First: For some reason I had it in my head that the two rear bolts would be vertical. They aren't, they are horizontal running back to front. Couldn't see them, but when I finally realized which way they were oriented I could feel them. A 13mm on a 1/4 inch drive 3 inch extension was the ticket.
Second: For me, the key to gettting the pump out was removing the high pressure line and moving the part that hooks to the pump forward and out of the way, the hose that runs vertically up to the tank was just popped off to the back. By twisting the pump slightly counter clockwise (when lying under it) and then lifting the left hand side (driver side in U.S.) slightly before rocking/priying the front bolt up and out. Once the motor front bolt was out, the motor needs to be slid to the left so the right side of the mount slips out from under the transmission mount dogbone, the front then gets tipped down so the plugs where the wires connect can slip under other parts. The challenge seemed to be that the motor mount is a close fit with the transmission mount and the right hand side of the motor can't be lifted when it is in the position it normally sits. Tight but relatively easy and only took 2-3 minutes of fiddling. Guess I got lucky!
Also, I don't remember if it was mentioned before, but you should have a T-40 to remove the mount from the old power steering pump and put on your new one.
My cooling fan is shot too, so I will order one next and install as soon as it gets here. I tried to spin it and if moved and sounded like there is gravel in it. I guess it hasn't worked in a while.
Anyway. If anyone needs help around southeast Massachusetts/Cape Cod, I bet it could do it in 2.5 hrs next time. Ok, never mind about the Cape. I now live in San Pedro, CA but I am still willing to help if anyone is feeling less than brave about their wrenching skills. BTW my help will consist of mostly coaching because I think everyone should have some confidence in themselves and fixing your own car is sure to instill some confidence. I can bring the tools though. :-)
Last edited by jkstehn; 06-27-2012 at 09:22 PM. Reason: I moved across the country.
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Charlie Victor (10-27-2017)
#24
#25
AMSOIL manufactures a synthetic Power Steering Fluid that will replace the CHF 11. It is $6.40 for a 16oz bottle unless you are enrolled in the preferred customer program to buy it wholesale. It is advertised to reduce friction resulting in cooler operating temperatures. I have a letter from the Tech Dept of Amsoil that recommends it for use in the MINI power steering system.
Gene
Gene
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BBside (07-03-2018)