OK, I just did the upgrade to the ATI. Let me tell you, if my step-dad did not have a friend with one of those 1/2" drive impact wrench, the OEM would not have come off. He is not a small man and he could not budge it with a 1/2" breaker bar, mostly (I think) because the engine spun. Yes, we had it in gear (tired both 1st and 6th even though I am sure 6th is the right gear in this case) and I was stomping on the break pedal. If I were to do it again, I would get something like this: http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=196

What a pain.

On the bright side, the ATI seems to work well.

 

I had a problem with the engine spinning also. What I did was put a thin piece of metal behind the old damper and tighter the bolts that screws in the damper from the puller till it hit the metal behind it.

 

Anyone have the photos for this? They are not pulling up for me.

 

So I ended up changing out for the ATI harmonic balancer yesterday as mine was coming apart. The bolts needed are:

3x - M6 x 1.0 pitch at 4" length with 2 washers
Stock Balancer Bolt loosened as a push point
ATI bolt after stock bolt was too far out (comes with ATI balancer)

Thanks to WMW for getting it to me so quickly.

I used 3" M6 bolts and they were too short. Make sure you use 4" to give enough space to mount into the old balancer and offer room for your pulley. I pulled the treads off one bolt starting out. The craftsman harmonic balancer tool worked well but a mini specific version like the one from WAY would have been MUCH better.

 

My scenario
Friend had P1688 code, checked crank pulley, it was hosed. Considered cheaper alternatives but eventually went for the ATI from WMW. (if it makes anyone feel better, an ATI for a Miata can run in the mid $500’s!)
I contemplated the procedure and read up on the process. I was a bit wary having heard about bolts breaking, drilling/tapping, and the big kahuna, having seen Randy Webb do one in Vegas where the OEM ‘crank pin’ broke. He got it done, but not without consternation. I had also seen him do one in the paddock at Laguna Seca after someone’s belt/tensioner let go.
All that said, I decided to give it a shot, and if things went south, just tow it to a shop.
Borrowed a puller from Autozone, but it didn’t have the right size bolts
First I obtained a M12x100mm threaded rod, bottomed it out in the crank, and drilled a divot in one end for the puller to center on.
Also picked up a trio of M6x100mm all thread, along with a few washers and nuts, as the hardware store only had M6x35mm bolts.

I started with the puller, the convex side out. Applied anti-seize to the pulley threads, in case something broke. Not surprisingly the M6 rods started to bend as I added pressure, as the washers were at an angle (not perpendicular) to the pulley. Having read the horror stories, I quickly stopped to confirm their strength (grade 5), and went out to source grade 8 bolts.
Based on my initial setup, I chose M6x50mm bolts, though I had read someone suggested four inches (100mm). I figured l’d rather have less length to fail.
On the second round, I turned the puller around so the flat portion was away from the pulley. This posed a bit of a problem as the bolts just barely fit with enough room to fit the pulley push point. I actually had to thread them in with the puller in place. If I had to do it again I’d get 60 or 70mm.
Once I had it all together, added a squirt of PB blaster.
The pulley came off like butter. Whew.

The install was even easier. Not knowing what to expect, I sourced a M12x120mm bolt, as Pelican Parts showed that you could install the pulley with just a longer bolt, with a ½” socket as a spacer.
As it turned out, the ATI from Way came with a M12x100mm bolt and 5mm washer that worked perfectly to install the pulley (until it bottomed out, and I used the new bolt to finish pressing it on.

All in all it was pretty simple and problem free. The hardest part was getting the damn belt routed correctly.
Sorry if this was a bit long, but figured pointing out what I did wrong would help others do it right the first time.

Kudos to WMW for the excellent customer service - I was anything but an ideal client, but they went above and beyond and gave good advice and got me what I needed.

 

I just received a new, stock damper for my '03 Cooper (R50 engine), and the install directions state to torque the new bolt to 50 N-m, then turn it an additional 180°. Kinda sounds odd, but check out this web page:

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...htening+Torque

It seems too coincidental that my new damper comes w/the same instructions. Has anybody here used this 2-stage technique? I haven't gotten to the job yet, and would appreciate any input.

 

I hope this is in the right thread and I apologize if it isnt. I was driving my car home and the battery light came on and I began losing power. Then the EML (electronic malfunction) and check engine light came on. I heard a loud pop and the car started smoking from the passenger side and I stopped and turned the car off immediately. I looked behind the tire and a pulley wad hanging there with a shredded belt. I took it to Auto zone and they told me it's the crankshaft pulley. Are the instructions in this forum what my dad and I need to follow and is there any other parts I maybe need to order? I know this probably isn't the best detail but I'm not great with cars and currently broke. If anyone can he of any help I'd be so grateful! Thank you!

 

sounds like your in the right place, I'd get a new crankshaft pulley bolt as well. I know you said your broke but $120 for a supercharger pulley kit while your in there.

 

I replaced both the crankshaft and the super pulleys on my r53.

For the cranksaft: you will need an impact driver, a big one. I wasted a weekend trying to remove that @#$% thing without and failed until a friend of a friend loaned us one. You will also need a puller for this. You should also shop for a good damper. Dont just buy the first one you find, and I personally would not get the OEM one.

For the super pulley: Everyone will tell you, this is a great hotrod option, that will cost you little and is fairly safe... as long as you stick with the moderate sized pulleys. You may find that you have to replace it anyway as the belt tensioner may have bounced against it. However: Get a quality puller for this pulley. Don't cheep out by renting generic. There are pictures of failures around... gives me the shivers. Also, your belt will be shorter... make note of the correct length... Something like this is ok: http://www.waymotorworks.com/pulley-puller.html. this one might be better: https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...6-p-32256.html Here is a kit: http://new.minimania.com/part/NMK504...l-Tool-R52-R53

If the belt tensioner did touch the super pulley... you have to replace that also or your mini will just eat belts. They are a little expensive: http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-belt-tensioner.html Mini wants you to replace them every so many miles... I cant recall how many off the top of my head. I replaced mine while I was in there. (I did not have a failure, my project started with upgrading the super pulley.)

Another really cheep upgrade is a belt tensioner travel limiter. $20. Get one: http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-tensioner-stop.html and maybe this also: http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...e-bushing.html

This is not *necessary* but will make getting it back together easer: http://www.waymotorworks.com/cooper-...-tool-r53.html

You will have to take apart two of the engine mounts (if I recall) to do this. So this is the time to upgrde these as well... but this might be out of scope of your project. Check your year, but: Lower: http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...-assembly.html Upper: http://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-eng...6-r50-r53.html

Also, all this stuff vibrates: Use the correct thread lock.

Getting this done is alot of work, so you may want to pace yourself. Have your "support staff" provide sodas, sandwiches, and how-to vids from youtube as you need them. If you are in the Austin area, I would lend a hand. I am only a shade tree mechanic, but i have done this operation.

 

Well I bought this tool http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=195 and unfortunately the M6 bolts were 8.8 and broke off. I was able to drill one and extract it, but am not having success drilling and extracting the other two.
It has the old 2004 pulley, tried a 3 jaw gear puller but no success as the rubber in it just pulls and not the middle.

I have read the thread, but for those that broke the M6 bolts inside the pulley any words of wisdom of where to go? One person grinded the whole thing off. Was hoping to avoid that. One person drilled and tapped a larger size. If someone successfully drilled and used some type of extraction tool to get the M6 bolts out, I would appreciate knowing what worked.

 

In case anyone else runs into the problem what I had to do on the "old" style 2004 and earlier crank pulley with the visible rubber is cut through the outer metal. This allowed me to get the first part off that included the rubber. I was then able to use a 3 jaw gear puller to pull off the remainder of the pulley. If I had to do it a gain I would clearly make sure I had the strongest M6 bolts possible.

 

im having the same problem as you, the only thing is i haven't tried cutting it out yet.
were u able to cut the inside part or take it out somehow, please advise ! !!!

 

I have the Mini put into front end service mode to change the SC oil. What a major PITA. Nothing is easy with the Mini.

While I am at it I am biting the bullet to change out the stock crank pulley and the front crank seal. As there are so many version of the stock crank pulley, can someone please confirm the three long metric bolts that I need for use with a duck foot puller?

I measure the length and 3 inches should give me the right length to use with the puller. The thread looks like M6 1.0 pitch, correct? I could not get a M6 short bolt to verify the thread due to the tight quarter.




I know I have to fashion a stud to insert into the crank hole so the pulley won't damage the thread and nose.

Thanks

 

I should just use my head and try harder. Never mind. I figured it out by finding a long enough M6 1.0 bolt and tested the thread. It is indeed. Just need to take a trip to get some decent machine grade bolts. Being M6 scares me.

 

Yeah I don't know why they used such a small bolt.

Make sure you have all three bolts tightened down to the same length before you start pulling.

For the center stud you can buy a piece of solid steel dowel from the local home depot. Try cutting it as close to flat as you can so the puller doesn't wander when you start to apply force.

Take your time and if it doesn't start to move tap the end of the puller softly with a hammer every few turns.

 

It was on the weekend, so I didn't want to drive across town to a H/W store that I know I can get grade 10.9 fasteners. I grudgingly settled on some grade 8 bolts and embrace some reckless risk taking. I did some careful measurement as what lengths and size I need. One trip and I got them all. A bit of elbow grease I modified the washer for the cheapo duck foot puller I have.




the lengths of the bolts are just perfect; I cut off the head of one long one for use as the extension of the puller's center stud


Any local Miniacs who want to replace their harmonic balancer I am happy to loan out this tool.

 

Good job...
Anyone in Hawaii needing tool for this kind of job i have it i installed the ATI ... PM me

 

If your car has decent mileage on it you might want to consider doing the front cover gasket while you have the pulley off.