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I did my 1200 mile oil change this weekend. Here's what I bought at the dealership:
11 42 7 557 012 - Filter Element. It's labeled "1 Satz / Kit" with a BMW Group and Made In France sticker on the box. It is a complete kit; filter, crush washer, and o-ring. Oh, and it was $23
Cheers,
Jeff
I bought 6 from Chicago MINI and they were $11.30 each and $5 shipping for all six. No tax so $72.80 for the lot.
__________________ jas. Cooper, Coopersburg, PA, '07 CooperS (AB/AB). Premium, Sport, Winter, LSD, Nav, iPod adptr, HIFI, piano black dash, comfort access. shrtnd shftr. 19mm Alta swaybar. 15" Kosei wheels w/ Bridgestone Ecopia tires, MC grille. Planned: Odd color roof and mirrors. Painted h'light enclosures (done one). Mach V springs. MC side markers gas cap. Subwoofer. Exhaust, Chip. And, YES, I love driving my MINI!
Jeff,
any chance of getting the phone number, web site or full name of Chicago Mini. I googled it and had no luck finding them.'
Thanks for the info
Bob
I think he meant Chicago Mini the member as there is no MINI dealership in Chicago. Way motor works has a discount though that was pretty good, check the vendor announcements page.
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Mine:
LaB/B MCS, leatherette, anthracite liner, LSD, Xenon, MFSW, rear fog, 6 speed, Piano Black, S-Winders with all season tires, white indicators + osram bulbs, V1
z3bum.... I printed out your post on the oil change knowing that it would come in handy. I just finished it and it was a breeze following your instructions... many thanks.
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'07 Mini S - LOADED .. Sticker Price $35,050.00. Mach V Springs.
'97 Porsche 911 (993) Cab
'01 Porsche Boxster S
'06 BMW 530I / '07 BMW 328I
'01 Toyota Tundra
I just did my first oil change over the weekend (5k). I didn't try using an allen wrench for the oil plug, but had gone out and got a T50 torx to do the job. Was easy to unscrew, but oil starts dripping as soon as it's a bit loose. At least on my old Integra, it was at an angle where oil wouldn't start coming out until the bolt was fully removed. This caused a bunch of oil to drip on my hand/arm while trying my best to unscrew the bolt quickly. Secondly, I couldn't tell if there was a crush washer or not as the oil kept dripping for a long time. It looked like there was since I saw copper, but I couldn't pry it off.
I used a 1 1/16" to remove the filter housing, and like someone already posted, a few ounces of oil came out and dripped down. It made a bit of a mess to clean up afterwards. Also would help if I had a longer extension for my socket wrench to clear the turbo intake.
Not too difficult, but not as clean and easy as I'd like. Not having to go underneath to remove the filter was nice though.
So I'm new to MINI's... have been wrenching on "American" car's all my life and I've never seen an oil filter like the MINI's before. Is there a purpose to its design (aside from greater filter media surface area)? Is it really designed to handle the 12K OCI that the factory recommends?
So I'm new to MINI's... have been wrenching on "American" car's all my life and I've never seen an oil filter like the MINI's before. Is there a purpose to its design (aside from greater filter media surface area)? Is it really designed to handle the 12K OCI that the factory recommends?
I'm not sure anyone here has a definitive answer to that. However, quite a few of us plan to change it more often, along with the oil.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Another question... can the MINI filter be changed without draining the oil? It's seemingly upright position seems to suggest that it can.
I can see a 12K OCI with a new filter and some makeup oil. Even still I would be doing frequent oil analysis, (at that point though you might as well pony up for new oil).
Changed my oil for the first time yesterday. This thread helped tremendously. I went out and picked up a 12" & 5" extension for my 1/2 drive to reach the filter. I also picked up a T50 for the plug. Turns out the plug is an allen, but the t50 worked fine. I also think a swivel joint would have helped reach the filter because the angle it's at causes the wrench to sit on the steel brace next to the coolant resevoir. The toughest part was getting the drain plug out without making a big mess. I had my catch can underneath and as soon as i cracked the plug loose, oil started dripping out and it got all over my rachet and hands. Luckily i was wearing gloves thanks to the advice of a previous poster.
Anyways, it was successful.
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Chris
'07 MCS LaB w/ Black boot & bonnet stripes, xenon, rear fog lamps, cloth sport seats, 16" S-winders, LSD, sport steering wheel, auto dim rearview, sunroof, 6spd manual
Ordered: 7-10-07 Arrived @ Dealership 8/14/2007 Picked up 8/17/2007
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Chris
'07 MCS LaB w/ Black boot & bonnet stripes, xenon, rear fog lamps, cloth sport seats, 16" S-winders, LSD, sport steering wheel, auto dim rearview, sunroof, 6spd manual
Ordered: 7-10-07 Arrived @ Dealership 8/14/2007 Picked up 8/17/2007
Thanks for all tips! I can't believe how much oil was on my floor when I was done. Not the cleanest oil change I have ever done.
As well as letting out the tranny fluid, I would also like to add, don't attempt to disconnect the coolant fluid...it will not be good for you. Trust me.
I also had to pry off the cooper colored crush ring. I was kind of stuck on the pan.
Thanks for all the tips.
__________________ "Bullwinkle" 07 MCS Astro Black Premium, Cold Weather Packages, Anthracite Headliner, Leatherette ( to make it Golden Retriever friendly ), Leather Sport Wheel, Rubber Floor Mats
Just went and bought the filter from the dealership with part no.: 11-42-7-557-012 and includes filter element and O ring but no copper crush ring for $9.77 and oil 5 quarts $39.77. I am going to do the first oil change tonight (~4700 miles). I checked my oil last night and it did not look really bad but it did not look like I thought it would, before I read this thread, nice and gold looking.
Only question I have is I have done oil changes on all my cars before, mostly VWs (which are a PITA) and I have never used a torque wrench.
How important is this with the MINI? And if it is, what do I ask for at the autoparts store?
__________________ 07 MCS "STEELER" Born 02/07 Mods to date: Helix FMIC, DDM Race Intake System, Exhaust depot ceramic coated catless downpipe, NM torque arm bushing, M7 SRP, Heat shield and Vortex Scoop, Forge Blow Off valve, DIY lower grill, Complete Black out, Joey Mod, WMW 4" stubby, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star specs, last but not least custom Steelers Rally Stripes, Emblems, Wheel center caps and steering wheel
Just went and bought the filter from the dealership with part no.: 11-42-7-557-012 and includes filter element and O ring but no copper crush ring for $9.77 and oil 5 quarts $39.77. I am going to do the first oil change tonight (~4700 miles). I checked my oil last night and it did not look really bad but it did not look like I thought it would, before I read this thread, nice and gold looking.
Great prices, but I think you will want the copper ring. It is what provides a good seal on the drain plug. You might get away with using the old one...
Quote:
Only question I have is I have done oil changes on all my cars before, mostly VWs (which are a PITA) and I have never used a torque wrench.
How important is this with the MINI? And if it is, what do I ask for at the autoparts store?
I didn't use a torque wrench on my first oil change, but ended up getting for the wheels. IMO, getting the torque right on them is important. So, it is useful to have one. I prefer the micrometer style torque wrench over the kind with the long needle (torsion bar?). It is hard to get an accurate reading with the bar, especially if you can't see it straight on, and my high school auto shop teacher had nothing good to say about them. Precision Instruments are supposed to make good quality torque wrenches.
I got a 20-150 ft-lb model because the wheel lug bolts take 103 ft-lbs in the R56. So, the typical 20-100 doesn't quite do it.
I used the torque wrench on the second oil change it provided me with the assurance that I had done it right. If you don't torque it enough, you could get leaks. I don't know how much risk there is of doing damage with over tightening. One thing the wrench showed me is that they don't need to be very tight.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
Did my oil change last night and there was a copper ring inside included
Did not use a torque wrench. . .checked for any leaks and there were none and after driving about 54 miles on highway 75mph. . .no leaks . Will check again before I leave and when I get home.
Really easy oil change and not really messy thanx to everyone .
Oil was black and smelled. . .glad I found and read this thread. Will be doing oil changes max 5k miles (ODM 4468 miles)
__________________ 07 MCS "STEELER" Born 02/07 Mods to date: Helix FMIC, DDM Race Intake System, Exhaust depot ceramic coated catless downpipe, NM torque arm bushing, M7 SRP, Heat shield and Vortex Scoop, Forge Blow Off valve, DIY lower grill, Complete Black out, Joey Mod, WMW 4" stubby, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star specs, last but not least custom Steelers Rally Stripes, Emblems, Wheel center caps and steering wheel
With 14,983 on original oil it was nasty. I will be doing my own oil changes in between the "free" ones from MINI form now on. I was just intimidated at doing them on my own at frst. Plus I didn't have the tools.
How often shold I change my oil then? Like every 5,000? I do mostly Highway commute to-from work with 45 MPH backroads. Not a huge amount of stopNgo.
__________________ 2007 Mellow Yellow Mini Cooper S. Sport Package, Chrome Line Interior, Rear Fogs.
Last edited by kevinminict; 07-21-2008 at 02:33 PM.
The dealership i go to in KC, KS said they'll due the free ones yearly or when the mini says it's ready, whichever comes first.
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Chris
'07 MCS LaB w/ Black boot & bonnet stripes, xenon, rear fog lamps, cloth sport seats, 16" S-winders, LSD, sport steering wheel, auto dim rearview, sunroof, 6spd manual
Ordered: 7-10-07 Arrived @ Dealership 8/14/2007 Picked up 8/17/2007
Does anyone know the average mileage in between the "free" oil chnages from MINI? I know the computer bases it on driving habits but I got my car July 2007 of last year and yet to see the oil light come on and with 14,983 on my car now I dont think that is correct, it still says 8,000 MORE miles to go .
How many miles do you drive in a year? I think for most people the in between point would be six months. IIRC, the average driver goes 15,000 miles per year.
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That DOES not seem right MINI!!!
Agreed, but you will probably find that the number remaining diminishes more quickly near the end. It is like the gas gauge -- overly optimistic in the beginning, but hurries to make up for it at the end.
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How often shold I change my oil then? Like every 5,000? I do mostly Highway commute to-from work with 45 MPH backroads. Not a huge amount of stopNgo.
With that kind of driving you will probably be on the annual oil change schedule, so at the six month point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pistobah
The dealership i go to in KC, KS said they'll due the free ones yearly or when the mini says it's ready, whichever comes first.
That seems to be standard.
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Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
I picked up my MCS almost 3 weeks ago. She has just under 1200 miles so far. When is the first recommended oil change (and no, i wont be doing it myself). Isn't there a way to use the on-board computer to tell when it needs changing? I cant seem to find anything, if so. Help!
Earlier in this thread it was stated that if you plan on keeping Zoe then do it after the breaking period, which is now and then every 5K. Dealership will do one free yearly (I think). I did my first at ~4600 miles and oil was black. The whole process itself is very simple and you do not really need anything special except for a couple of tools. (T50 oil drain plug and 27mm socket with ~10in extension for filter)
All this said still do you plan to keep Zoe for the long haul or trade in every few years.
__________________ 07 MCS "STEELER" Born 02/07 Mods to date: Helix FMIC, DDM Race Intake System, Exhaust depot ceramic coated catless downpipe, NM torque arm bushing, M7 SRP, Heat shield and Vortex Scoop, Forge Blow Off valve, DIY lower grill, Complete Black out, Joey Mod, WMW 4" stubby, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star specs, last but not least custom Steelers Rally Stripes, Emblems, Wheel center caps and steering wheel
I did my first change the other day...the only thing I did differently was there was a single t25 i think it was torx bit that held on the coolant reservoir...not sure where the 8mm bolts are that were mentioned in the original post? I just loosened the one torx bolt and the reservoir lifted right up and out of the way. Other than that everything was identical, thanks for the info!
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08 MCS - BRG/White Stripes(painted on!), Aero-Kit, Cold Weather, Premium, 18" Konig Swurve, Megan Racing Coilovers, H-Sport Upper/Lower control arms, Powerflex front bushings, TSW 19mm RSB, NM torque arm insert, LSD, HID, Auto Dim Mirror, Anthracite Headliner, Brushed Alloy Accent, Clear Signals. WOOOH!
Earlier in this thread it was stated that if you plan on keeping Zoe then do it after the breaking period, which is now and then every 5K. Dealership will do one free yearly (I think). I did my first at ~4600 miles and oil was black. The whole process itself is very simple and you do not really need anything special except for a couple of tools. (T50 oil drain plug and 27mm socket with ~10in extension for filter)
All this said still do you plan to keep Zoe for the long haul or trade in every few years.
I plan to keep her for the "long haul" but we'll see. Things change. Is there something in my computer that tells me it's time to do it, or do i jst call the dealership and tell them i'm ready for the break-in oil change?
I plan to keep her for the "long haul" but we'll see. Things change. Is there something in my computer that tells me it's time to do it, or do i jst call the dealership and tell them i'm ready for the break-in oil change?
The OBC states the mileage until the factory service when you start the car. Watch the odometer, as it flashes by pretty quickly. This is where most people think that it can't be correct. In your case, low mileage, it will probably state that you have another 18-20k miles to go before changing your oil. The dealer will only change your oil when the OBC says it's time, or you have gone a year since the last MINI-paid change, or you foot the bill. Some dealers charge around 175+ to change the oil on these cars. Crazy! I have mine down to 10 minutes and no mess!
That break-in change is on you, plus any extra changes you feel might be necessary, thus the OP created this thread to help folks to change their own oil for a reasonable price. A commendable undertaking.
"Bullwinkle" 07 MCS Astro Black Premium, Cold Weather Packages, Anthracite Headliner, Leatherette ( to make it Golden Retriever friendly ), Leather Sport Wheel, Rubber Floor Mats
07 MCS "STEELER" Born 02/07 Mods to date: Helix FMIC, DDM Race Intake System, Exhaust depot ceramic coated catless downpipe, NM torque arm bushing, M7 SRP, Heat shield and Vortex Scoop, Forge Blow Off valve, DIY lower grill, Complete Black out, Joey Mod, WMW 4" stubby, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star specs, last but not least custom Steelers Rally Stripes, Emblems, Wheel center caps and steering wheel
. Will check again before I leave and when I get home.
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