I saw those, too. Was much more impressed with the kit from racing brake.

On a separate but related note, the only option out there for rotors are the OE units, right?

 

They are the only "off the shelf" option. You can get floating ones made up with lots of disc options, and I have seen photos for one person who got it done.

I don't think we will see any other of the shelf options anytime soon. This disc is exclusive to the GP2. Even though the 135 uses the same calipers it is a different disc, and the hat is different as it is a 5 bolt pattern etc. Given that there are only 2000 cars in the world, and the fact that the discs are very durable, the market is tiny.

 

We could not find any "reasonably" priced disc kits other than custom made units so we just started Cyro treating the factory discs.

The stock ones are great as is and we figured cryo treating could only make them better. We stocked up on the discs too.. MINI tends to let things go on back order or prices jump very fast once cars start to go out of warranty with 3/36 maintenance they won't have to pay themselves for brakes jobs soon so they can past the expense on to the customer.

The front discs have gone up $30 each just since the release of the car.

 

Hey, I found this and thought there might be some good info here that might help the OP:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...o-in-here.html

While this is an upgrade thread, there is a lot parts info posted here.

 

It seems that you are referring to the end of the long straight and then the rest of the track seems to be turns after turn with braking in between. In other words, this looks like a track that is hard on brakes. The Yellow stuff pads may be building up a lot of heat and not dissipating it the way a real race pad would and and yet, with the ducted cooling that the MINI has the rotors have cooled. When you park, the pads are heating the cooled rotor. Again, I would get a dedicated race pad and try that.

Also, have you removed the dust shield? Not suggesting that you should as I found that it created brake rotor problems with it remove.

 

eddie 07S
The end of the long straight is where they are the hottest and yes there is alot of turning on the rest of the track. Great for minis. http://racepbir.com/tracks/road-course.
The dust shield is still in place and I was planning on leaving it there.
Still at a loss for why the rotors MAY have overheated and there was no tell tail damage to the ceramic insulator and only very minor cracking of a few of the caliper dust boots. I ordered 4 new rotors that are coming from Germany as there was none available in the states so I was told. I did see a minimum thickness rating on the rotor of 24.4 mm so I will see if these can be turned and keep them for a back up set. Mine are 25.44+ mm

 

Has anyone removed the driving light and the access cover in the fender well to allow more air flow into the wheel well to aid in the brake cooling? not sure if that would have an impact on aerodynamics or if the inner fender well cover would be able to withstand the added pressure and not hit the tire?

 

I found a YouTube post of a replica Ford GT40 running around that track. Looked fun and great for a MINI.

I think leaving the dust shields in place is the right thing to do. The air ducts that the MINI has blow straight on the caliper...good thing. However, I found that that removing the dust shields causes too much cooling on the inside of the rotors and I stress/heat cracked the outside surface of the rotors.

Cracking of the dust boots comes from heat from the brake pads. Yours seem to be saying that little heat is getting to them, but your rotors are saying you are generating a lot of heat. So that leaves what heat you are generating is staying in the pads. Race pads are made with a lot of metal just so they can move heat away from the rotors, hence dust boots don't last long with race pads...On the plus side, maybe your rotors will last longer if you use them. I know the Hawks aren't the favorite of some people, but they are used by a lot of people. Here would be my choice (hopefully I found the right pad shape, the material is right though):
http://porterfield-brakes.com/produc...roductID=16010

For comparison I use the Wilwood Poly H pad:
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/BrakePadsApp.aspx

Another consideration for you is the DTC that your car uses. In corners it, through the eLSD function, applies the brake on the inside front wheel to cut down on its spinning when you are accelerating out of corners. This also generates heat in the brakes which doesn't have much of chance to be dissipated. Unfortunately, BMW and other German auto manufactures have gone away from a mechanical LSD and the brakes are suffering as a result. It is probably worse in a MINI vs a RWD car because in a MINI the front brakes are doing double duty.

Not sure I would do that. I think you may be right about the problem with fender well liner. Also, there is already a lot of air that comes in through the MINI air ducts. More air might not be of a benefit as it is not getting to the outside of the rotor where it is really needed. It would be better to come up with ducting that brings the air directly to inner edge of the vanes and pushes the air up through them to more evenly cool the rotor.