Decent Used Mini?
#1
Decent Used Mini?
Hello everyone - I have been reading some of the posts here and been doing lots of research on Mini and 'the good years'. I'm not planning on buying new .. it seems from what I can find that 2004,2005,2006,2009,2010,2011 were the good ones. For 04, 05 and 06, it seems the S types were better and for 09, 10 and 11, the base models were better. There also seems to be warning to stay away from the CVT models and anything without a 6 speed manual. They all seem to be affected by strut towers breaking? I drive a Fiat 500 now and it's a blast to drive. Very little maintenance needed on the 500 (40k now). Get in and drive. I'd like to try a Mini. The overwhelming theme seems to be yes, they do require a bit of expensive maintenance but the joy of driving them makes it worth it - is that accurate? Being that you all are experienced with these cars, what say you? When looking at used ones, aside from the strut tower and obvious things like black exhaust and leaks, what should I be looking for? How much mileage is too much? There are a TON of them online with 100k+ miles. Is this because people are running away from the maintenance costs? What is the average life of these / mileage expectancy? Are alot of the maintenance items things that can easily be done by the owner? If the brakes are normal pads / rotors, that should be somewhat easy. For those of you that own them, what are your maintenance items / costs? One thread appeared to say that you may need $200 / month maintenance.
Using some other reading I have found .. it appears that the used ones to consider are:
1) manual justa mini cooper from any year
2) manual justa mini convertible from any year
3) auto justa mini cooper from any year except 02-06
4) auto justa mini convertible from any year except 05-08
5) mini cooper s hardtop from 2005 or 2006
6) mini cooper s convertible from 2005 to 2008
My only preference at this point is a hardtop. Maybe ok with a glass top. I have no desire for a convertible. I know very little about Mini (hence the questions to the experts).
Using some other reading I have found .. it appears that the used ones to consider are:
1) manual justa mini cooper from any year
2) manual justa mini convertible from any year
3) auto justa mini cooper from any year except 02-06
4) auto justa mini convertible from any year except 05-08
5) mini cooper s hardtop from 2005 or 2006
6) mini cooper s convertible from 2005 to 2008
My only preference at this point is a hardtop. Maybe ok with a glass top. I have no desire for a convertible. I know very little about Mini (hence the questions to the experts).
Last edited by MiniTigger; 06-16-2015 at 12:32 PM.
#2
The 02-06 Cooper S with a manual transmission is going to be your best bet.
I’m sure a few will come in spewing the same ole bull-crap about 05-05 Cooper S models more reliable.
The honest truth:
The:
Coolant tank
Crank pulley
Dip sticks break
Supercharger (The later ones had rotor coatings) but no improvements made to PTO drive.
Oil pan gasket
Crank seal gasket
CPS gasket
Timing cover gasket
Header cat cracks
Power steering pump
Power steering fan
Control arm bushings
Strut towers
Strut bearings
Belt tensioning system
Headliners
Sunroof leaks
BCM failures because of sunroof leaks
All will crap the bed on you and it don’t matter if it’s a 02 or a 06. There was no real refinement of any of these common failure items.
The early models had issues with fan wiring, but a lot of these issues are probably updated by now to the latest SB.
The early models had different gear ratios, but the transmission is still a Getrag and is reliable.
The early models had a replacable key battery vs. later models when the key stops charging buy a new key.
There are other “cosmetic” enhancements, but other than that it really boils down to personal preference of early first gen vs. facelift.
Don’t buy anything with an automatic or a nav system.
Don't buy one of these cars off a buy here pay here lot.
I’m sure a few will come in spewing the same ole bull-crap about 05-05 Cooper S models more reliable.
The honest truth:
The:
Coolant tank
Crank pulley
Dip sticks break
Supercharger (The later ones had rotor coatings) but no improvements made to PTO drive.
Oil pan gasket
Crank seal gasket
CPS gasket
Timing cover gasket
Header cat cracks
Power steering pump
Power steering fan
Control arm bushings
Strut towers
Strut bearings
Belt tensioning system
Headliners
Sunroof leaks
BCM failures because of sunroof leaks
All will crap the bed on you and it don’t matter if it’s a 02 or a 06. There was no real refinement of any of these common failure items.
The early models had issues with fan wiring, but a lot of these issues are probably updated by now to the latest SB.
The early models had different gear ratios, but the transmission is still a Getrag and is reliable.
The early models had a replacable key battery vs. later models when the key stops charging buy a new key.
There are other “cosmetic” enhancements, but other than that it really boils down to personal preference of early first gen vs. facelift.
Don’t buy anything with an automatic or a nav system.
Don't buy one of these cars off a buy here pay here lot.
Last edited by Nicefeet; 06-16-2015 at 06:10 PM.
#3
Thanks for the info and I will take all that into consideration.
Is the list that you gave, the list of items that will fail? I am not planning on getting an Auto - I love the manual trans. I wish it was in more vehicles than it is.
Is there a recurring monthly maintenance item that you guys are seeing?
Can these items that fail be replaced with better ones that don't? I'm trying to stick with either private or a dealer of sorts and not a buy here / pay here.
Is the list that you gave, the list of items that will fail? I am not planning on getting an Auto - I love the manual trans. I wish it was in more vehicles than it is.
Is there a recurring monthly maintenance item that you guys are seeing?
Can these items that fail be replaced with better ones that don't? I'm trying to stick with either private or a dealer of sorts and not a buy here / pay here.
#4
The coolant tank can be upgraded to an alloy one instead of plastic.
The crank pulley can be upgraded to an ATI Super dampener.
The strut tower can be shored up with M7 or Cravenspeed parts.
I'm really **** about my car and there seems to be no theme in terms of recurring maint issues.
I've owned mine for two years and I think only unexpected items was a starter replacement and a new battery. The car has never left me stranded.
The crank pulley can be upgraded to an ATI Super dampener.
The strut tower can be shored up with M7 or Cravenspeed parts.
I'm really **** about my car and there seems to be no theme in terms of recurring maint issues.
I've owned mine for two years and I think only unexpected items was a starter replacement and a new battery. The car has never left me stranded.
#5
#6
I purchased my 06 S 6 speed with 71,000 miles. I have 91,000 miles currently and I have no regrets. Only thing that crapped out on me was the power steering pump but I replaced it myself so it wasn't very expensive. The car has been fantastic. I have added the 16% pulley and intake. It is my only car and I would buy another one in a heartbeat.
#7
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#8
#9
Just go in with both eyes open. If you purchase a "Handyman Special" know you will be doing a lot of work up front and it can run a little deep. BUT if you are committed mentally, physically, and financially your end result will put a smile on your face that can't be pried off your face with a nuclear bomb.
If you go at it as a RESTRO-MOD you can upgrade/MOD out all the normal worn parts that you would be replacing anyway. End result... you may end up with a 10 year old car but it will be mostly a NEW 10 year old car that will nasty wicked.
Best of luck no mater what you decide to do... and ...
Motor on!
If you go at it as a RESTRO-MOD you can upgrade/MOD out all the normal worn parts that you would be replacing anyway. End result... you may end up with a 10 year old car but it will be mostly a NEW 10 year old car that will nasty wicked.
Best of luck no mater what you decide to do... and ...
Motor on!
#10
#11
For a 1st Gen MINI ...
Motoringfile - MINI R50/R53 Buyers Guide
I'd stay away from any 2nd Gen MINI with the N14 engine (2007 - 2010 Cooper S and 2009 - 2012 JCW).
#12
Nicefeet had a very good list, I would also add normal (or not uncommon to see fail) things like:
Lower Control Arm (LCA) Bushings (go powerflex )
Passenger side engine mount (go Vibratechnics)
Thermostat gasket
Battery
Alternator
A/C (i forget the failure part - the coil? Usually Not the compressor or clutch)
Rust (as listed in the buying guide)
Passenger seat airbag sensor (currently on recall)
Passenger side window
If you can manage an 05 or 06, they are still covered under a 12 year rust perforation warranty (all cars built from January 01, 2004). The "refresh" that happened in "late" 2004 m/y (spring 2004 build dates), have the 3 spoke steering wheel and upgraded engine mounts (that leak, replace with Vibratechnics) along with the new supercharger and transmission gearing.
I have an 05 and a new-to-me 06 and I'm shocked how much more refined the 06 is (auto wipers / mirrors) the car does not have any rattles - but that could be because I don't have the chassis stiffened yet with strut towers or new engine mounts.
You'd likely spend about $2-3K on fixing and upgrading, but after that it would be general maintenance like any European car (keep in mind the BMW tax on parts)
Currently up here in Ontario, it's about $7-9K to get into a decent 05-06 on the road and then the upgrades and "change it before it fails" parts or 10-12K for one with lower mileage and the parts already sorted. It's possible to find a high mileage 04 in the $3-4K range but it will likely need a lot dumped into it to be reliable.
If you are handy, you can do the work yourself saving a tonne on labour. This site is an excellent resource.
You will need to check your oil at every fill up until you learn the engine's consumption rate. It is "within spec" for it to consume 1L/1000 kms according to MINI (ask me how I know)
All that, because they're worth every grin (if you enjoy driving)
Good luck!
Lower Control Arm (LCA) Bushings (go powerflex )
Passenger side engine mount (go Vibratechnics)
Thermostat gasket
Battery
Alternator
A/C (i forget the failure part - the coil? Usually Not the compressor or clutch)
Rust (as listed in the buying guide)
Passenger seat airbag sensor (currently on recall)
Passenger side window
If you can manage an 05 or 06, they are still covered under a 12 year rust perforation warranty (all cars built from January 01, 2004). The "refresh" that happened in "late" 2004 m/y (spring 2004 build dates), have the 3 spoke steering wheel and upgraded engine mounts (that leak, replace with Vibratechnics) along with the new supercharger and transmission gearing.
I have an 05 and a new-to-me 06 and I'm shocked how much more refined the 06 is (auto wipers / mirrors) the car does not have any rattles - but that could be because I don't have the chassis stiffened yet with strut towers or new engine mounts.
You'd likely spend about $2-3K on fixing and upgrading, but after that it would be general maintenance like any European car (keep in mind the BMW tax on parts)
Currently up here in Ontario, it's about $7-9K to get into a decent 05-06 on the road and then the upgrades and "change it before it fails" parts or 10-12K for one with lower mileage and the parts already sorted. It's possible to find a high mileage 04 in the $3-4K range but it will likely need a lot dumped into it to be reliable.
If you are handy, you can do the work yourself saving a tonne on labour. This site is an excellent resource.
You will need to check your oil at every fill up until you learn the engine's consumption rate. It is "within spec" for it to consume 1L/1000 kms according to MINI (ask me how I know)
All that, because they're worth every grin (if you enjoy driving)
Good luck!
#13
I just purchased a 04 cooper s with 91,000.00 at the time ,,, I am in the car/truck business ,,,, it was a auction car that was traded in and bought by a car dealer ,, I purchased the car and drove it for 1000 miles or so until I had a chance to really go through it for the engine and trans they where solid but the clutch was original and I didn't know if the super charger had been serviced,, so I had commenced in the clutch replacement ,supercharger service , pulley up grade, once the k frame was down I saw the control arm bushings where shot so new ones ordered ,, changed out the water pump , changed out the rear main seal , fixed the valve cover gasket leak ,changed out the clogged air filter with a k&n filter ,,, ,,odds and ends changed one of the silly door latch assembly's (drivers side) new wheelbearing in the front and CV boot /// long of the short if you find one with 50,000 miles or lower you more than likely you will be good for just oil changes ,, 120,000 or more do some investigation and see what was done for replacement ,, ,,, with all the replacement stuff I did ,, the car is a blast to drive and with the new clutch it is smooth ,, plus I went over board and purchased new rims and tires ,, ditched the run flats and added a custom cat back exhaust from parts I had from other jobs ,,, 25 miles to the gallon +,, car is solid and should be low maint for 30-40 thousand miles ,,, you can find them you have to check them out and pay accordingly per the maintenance done
#14
After having 3 MINIs (R50 CVT, R56 JCW, R53) I think that they are great fun, but the are not a Honda. You will have to maintain them, either on your own or writing checks.
At this point I would say that they are not far off from older BMWs. For example the E46 platform. If it is a $12K E46 and you buy it for $6K. That just means it needs about $6K in work to get it back to its book value.
Read as much as you can and pay for a inspection at either a MINI dealer or a qualified indy MINI tech shop. Best money you will spend.
At this point I would say that they are not far off from older BMWs. For example the E46 platform. If it is a $12K E46 and you buy it for $6K. That just means it needs about $6K in work to get it back to its book value.
Read as much as you can and pay for a inspection at either a MINI dealer or a qualified indy MINI tech shop. Best money you will spend.
#15
You don't really want a 2002 - 2004 Cooper manual because it will have the problematic Midlands transmission. The 2005 onward has a Getrag unit.
For a 1st Gen MINI ...
Motoringfile - MINI R50/R53 Buyers Guide
I'd stay away from any 2nd Gen MINI with the N14 engine (2007 - 2010 Cooper S and 2009 - 2012 JCW).
For a 1st Gen MINI ...
Motoringfile - MINI R50/R53 Buyers Guide
I'd stay away from any 2nd Gen MINI with the N14 engine (2007 - 2010 Cooper S and 2009 - 2012 JCW).
#16
Nicefeet had a very good list, I would also add normal (or not uncommon to see fail) things like:
Lower Control Arm (LCA) Bushings (go powerflex )
Passenger side engine mount (go Vibratechnics)
Thermostat gasket
Battery
Alternator
A/C (i forget the failure part - the coil? Usually Not the compressor or clutch)
Rust (as listed in the buying guide)
Passenger seat airbag sensor (currently on recall)
Passenger side window
If you can manage an 05 or 06, they are still covered under a 12 year rust perforation warranty (all cars built from January 01, 2004). The "refresh" that happened in "late" 2004 m/y (spring 2004 build dates), have the 3 spoke steering wheel and upgraded engine mounts (that leak, replace with Vibratechnics) along with the new supercharger and transmission gearing.
I have an 05 and a new-to-me 06 and I'm shocked how much more refined the 06 is (auto wipers / mirrors) the car does not have any rattles - but that could be because I don't have the chassis stiffened yet with strut towers or new engine mounts.
You'd likely spend about $2-3K on fixing and upgrading, but after that it would be general maintenance like any European car (keep in mind the BMW tax on parts)
Currently up here in Ontario, it's about $7-9K to get into a decent 05-06 on the road and then the upgrades and "change it before it fails" parts or 10-12K for one with lower mileage and the parts already sorted. It's possible to find a high mileage 04 in the $3-4K range but it will likely need a lot dumped into it to be reliable.
If you are handy, you can do the work yourself saving a tonne on labour. This site is an excellent resource.
You will need to check your oil at every fill up until you learn the engine's consumption rate. It is "within spec" for it to consume 1L/1000 kms according to MINI (ask me how I know)
All that, because they're worth every grin (if you enjoy driving)
Good luck!
Lower Control Arm (LCA) Bushings (go powerflex )
Passenger side engine mount (go Vibratechnics)
Thermostat gasket
Battery
Alternator
A/C (i forget the failure part - the coil? Usually Not the compressor or clutch)
Rust (as listed in the buying guide)
Passenger seat airbag sensor (currently on recall)
Passenger side window
If you can manage an 05 or 06, they are still covered under a 12 year rust perforation warranty (all cars built from January 01, 2004). The "refresh" that happened in "late" 2004 m/y (spring 2004 build dates), have the 3 spoke steering wheel and upgraded engine mounts (that leak, replace with Vibratechnics) along with the new supercharger and transmission gearing.
I have an 05 and a new-to-me 06 and I'm shocked how much more refined the 06 is (auto wipers / mirrors) the car does not have any rattles - but that could be because I don't have the chassis stiffened yet with strut towers or new engine mounts.
You'd likely spend about $2-3K on fixing and upgrading, but after that it would be general maintenance like any European car (keep in mind the BMW tax on parts)
Currently up here in Ontario, it's about $7-9K to get into a decent 05-06 on the road and then the upgrades and "change it before it fails" parts or 10-12K for one with lower mileage and the parts already sorted. It's possible to find a high mileage 04 in the $3-4K range but it will likely need a lot dumped into it to be reliable.
If you are handy, you can do the work yourself saving a tonne on labour. This site is an excellent resource.
You will need to check your oil at every fill up until you learn the engine's consumption rate. It is "within spec" for it to consume 1L/1000 kms according to MINI (ask me how I know)
All that, because they're worth every grin (if you enjoy driving)
Good luck!
#17
I just purchased a 04 cooper s with 91,000.00 at the time ,,, I am in the car/truck business ,,,, it was a auction car that was traded in and bought by a car dealer ,, I purchased the car and drove it for 1000 miles or so until I had a chance to really go through it for the engine and trans they where solid but the clutch was original and I didn't know if the super charger had been serviced,, so I had commenced in the clutch replacement ,supercharger service , pulley up grade, once the k frame was down I saw the control arm bushings where shot so new ones ordered ,, changed out the water pump , changed out the rear main seal , fixed the valve cover gasket leak ,changed out the clogged air filter with a k&n filter ,,, ,,odds and ends changed one of the silly door latch assembly's (drivers side) new wheelbearing in the front and CV boot /// long of the short if you find one with 50,000 miles or lower you more than likely you will be good for just oil changes ,, 120,000 or more do some investigation and see what was done for replacement ,, ,,, with all the replacement stuff I did ,, the car is a blast to drive and with the new clutch it is smooth ,, plus I went over board and purchased new rims and tires ,, ditched the run flats and added a custom cat back exhaust from parts I had from other jobs ,,, 25 miles to the gallon +,, car is solid and should be low maint for 30-40 thousand miles ,,, you can find them you have to check them out and pay accordingly per the maintenance done
#18
After having 3 MINIs (R50 CVT, R56 JCW, R53) I think that they are great fun, but the are not a Honda. You will have to maintain them, either on your own or writing checks.
At this point I would say that they are not far off from older BMWs. For example the E46 platform. If it is a $12K E46 and you buy it for $6K. That just means it needs about $6K in work to get it back to its book value.
Read as much as you can and pay for a inspection at either a MINI dealer or a qualified indy MINI tech shop. Best money you will spend.
At this point I would say that they are not far off from older BMWs. For example the E46 platform. If it is a $12K E46 and you buy it for $6K. That just means it needs about $6K in work to get it back to its book value.
Read as much as you can and pay for a inspection at either a MINI dealer or a qualified indy MINI tech shop. Best money you will spend.
#19
Should it be safe to assume that if I can get one from a Mini dealer, that it has been checked and gone through .. or should I ask for them to go through it? Locally, there is a 2005 Cooper S glass top (at a Mini dealer) 6 speed manual trans with 132k on it. Asking 6500 for it.
If it is at a MINI dealer, you can ask outright what they've done, and what needs to be done. It was likely a trade in, and at that mileage and price, it will likely need a few grand in the next 6 months. I would say they're an excellent place to start (and surprised they have a 10 y/o car on the lot)
#20
Should it be safe to assume that if I can get one from a Mini dealer, that it has been checked and gone through .. or should I ask for them to go through it? Locally, there is a 2005 Cooper S glass top (at a Mini dealer) 6 speed manual trans with 132k on it. Asking 6500 for it.
Make it part of the negotiation. They give you a full inspection free of charge and then you decide on the purchase. I think my dealer charges maybe $125 for the inspection but I could be wrong.
#21
What good is an inspection from the entity selling you the used car? Unless they are providing a warranty it isn't worth spit. Nothing short of a qualified mechanic, preferably Mini capable will work.
I bought a used Mini from the dealer and they barely had looked at it from when it came off lease. Since it still had 1 year on the warranty and low miles I didn't have it inspected, otherwise I would have gone with a full on inspection.
I bought a used Mini from the dealer and they barely had looked at it from when it came off lease. Since it still had 1 year on the warranty and low miles I didn't have it inspected, otherwise I would have gone with a full on inspection.
#22
if you are looking for a long term purchase , do a car fax report these are good info to have how ever they can not accurate ,I would look at one owner vehicle's and purchase from private owners:: the reasons are this, with the knowledge you have learned from the forum here, you can get most of the answers of maintenance done(you cant get that from a dealer or used car lot) ,get a feel for how the car was maintained from that owner,,, most private owners want to get the deal done and that can help in negations, this also time to really look at things ,, lastly have your budget number established ,sometimes private owners think they have the best cars and shoot for the moon on price but cash talks and mentioning some of the bad points of the car can change the purchase price ,,, people who by my cars know exactly what they are getting because I repair them and drive them before becoming for sale ,,, gmonde
#23
Jamez, 05r50, Minnie and gmonde .. all great points and thanks for posting. I shall keep looking. The more I look and research, I think I'd like to settle for an 05-07 Justa or S manual hardtop. I don't think I want a new one - but maybe a lease will satisfy me while I get to know it. I do intend on looking at the Mini that's at the dealer as well and asking lots of questions.
#24
#25
I totally agree with you - the S will put a bigger smile. It all will come down to who wants what for how much .. and of course what the maintenance (to get it up to par / where I want it - and then the normal maintenance) will be on the vehicle.
For those that do not know, in a similar universe, the Fiat 500 is also a fun car to drive (and also puts a smile on your face). The Abarth is a bad *** and also gives a bigger grin.
For those that do not know, in a similar universe, the Fiat 500 is also a fun car to drive (and also puts a smile on your face). The Abarth is a bad *** and also gives a bigger grin.