Picked up a chili red 2004 mini S this weekend and have a few things that need working out....

#1 - Key FOB - only came with 1 key has the 2 buttons with replaceable battery. Power locks work inside the car but no response when using the FOB. Changed the battery, tried a couple different reprogram methods found online and still no response. Not sure what else to try honestly...which leads me to issue number #2..

#2 - Exterior Door lock where the key goes - noticed the key goes in (not very smoothly I'll add) but I can not turn the key left or right to manually unlock or lock doors....which is a problem if the only key FOB I currently possess doesnt open them either. Basically I cant lock my mini ever or there is no way to get back in. Is the key lock portion on the exterior of the door a seperate piece from the door actuator assembly or is it all one unit? I thought I could possibly replace the key portion with a new one and new key and just have a door key and ignition key but I dont see where they sell the key hole unit with key? There is only a key lock on the drivers door also. I'm wondering if somehow the key I have that works in the ignition is a different key than the door since it wont turn at all and feels hard to insert or maybe there is some underlying issue that causes this? Maybe that is also why my FOB wont work..although I would think I could have reprogramed it to but again its not by the methods I've tried so far. Any ideas in diagnosing the root of this problem and possible fixes? This is priority one since Im not comfortable leaving my car unlocked nor do I want to take the chance of getting locked out of it.

#3 - Would like to install a hitch assembly and wondered what other mini owners suggest to fit my 2004? Also, suggestions on a roof rack (there are no rails but it is a hardtop)

#4 - Airbag light is on. Ive read up on possible loose connections and such and that it has to be reset with a scan tool. I have access to a nice high dollar scanner which I hope to hook up today and read codes, hopefully find and fix issue and reset. Will follow up on that if I'm unsuccessful

Going to put new brakes all the way around today or tomorrow and hopefully go get her inspected. There are some other minor issues or things I maybe just havent figured out how it works but the above are things at the top of my "fix list"

Thanks for any help, advise, or suggestions from those more experienced with mini's than I!

 

Brakes are very easy, just did mine this past weekend actually. The back rotors and pads are a little more tricky than the front because to push the piston back into the caliper it must be turned. But tools are available from BMW that make this easy. I've never had to deal with door locks before so i can't really say anything about that. Hope you're loving the car so far!

 

Congrats on the purchase.

Hitch
The MiniFini hitch was the dealer installed option for the Gen1s. It's pricey, ~$650 for the SportLink, Attachment Base, and Receiver. I prefer the look and installed one on my Gen2 R59.

The MiniDoMore is half the cost, and the Curt (knockoff?) is even cheaper.

All three have inserts that slide into the frame meaning you have to remove and slightly modify the bumper. The hitch post over in the Gen2/R59 section covers the DoMore and my write up on the MiniFini.

There is a 4th option that does not require bumper removal and bolts to the side of the frame. But I don't know any more than that or even if it's available for the Gen1s.

Airbag Light
Sounds like the typical problem with the passenger side occupant sensor. On my 2006 R53 the sensor is part of the bottom seat cushion, all one piece, meaning the entire bottom cushion had to be replaced at around $1200.

Or search this forum for info on how to jump the sensor so the light goes off. Way, way cheaper, but I don't know if there are any negatives.

 

Key Fob issues, but is sounds like it is more than just the Key Fob but also the Key as well...

The key should be cut to allow you to open and lock the door with the key in the traditional fashion, if that doesn't work then there are a few possibilities as to why that is not working. But it sounds like you might need to get a new lock barrel (the part that the key fits in) but the drum and key need to be checked to make sure they match. It is obvious the key and the ignition switch match. As for the FOB, making sure the FOB and the receiver are still operational (BTW a new key will run you about $180. or so)

A number of hitches are available, the one I like the most is the one that bolts on to the box frame behind the bumper and has a hidden receiver behind the backup light, but this would need to be moved. But the hitch varies due to weight rating. I have no suggestions for a roof rack...

Airbag light... Code but my fear is the light is due to the missing or major malfunction of the airbag(s). But with luck you can just reset that.

Welcome to the MINIacs!

Sure it needs a little work, but I'm sure you are going to love it...

Motor on!

 

Thanks everyone. I guess my fear is confirmed and the key/fob issue means going to dealer only :( Besides being 3 hours away, I know it's never a cheap visit!

Glad to see what others are using for hitch options. Thanks, I'll check them out.

As for brakes...I'm doing rear rotors and brakes for now as those appear to be still the factory set up. However the fronts appear to be an aftermarket kit with stud conversion. The mini currently has aftermarket rims on front and factory on the back....yes it looks ridicous. I did get the other 2 aftermarket rims to go on the rear but need to get a stud conversion set to use them. That's top on the list too!

Yes it needs some love but it looks great otherwise and appears to run and shift well. Drove it 4 hours home in the mountains and it was a fun little ride....I think it needs shocks and struts also as it was a bit rough.

Another question....how much ground clearance is usual on this? .....I'm just wondering if it's been lowered as it seems lower to me...but in general it is lower than anything I've owned so who knows for sure! Lol

 

Congratulations. You can also check out our DIY Tech Articles for any assistance when performing DIY services on your new Mini!

-Luccia

 

The nose on my 06 R53 Checkmate would scrape the ground all the time and it is not lowered.

You simply learn to cross speed bumps, enter driveways, etc. at an angle to prevent the scraping. It becomes a habit, but your passengers and the cars behind you often look puzzled.

My R59 is not as bad, but still more so than any other car I have owned or driven.

 

There's multiple things going on here with your locks/actuators and key, so there's no simple solution.

When you say "no response" when using the key buttons do you mean silence or do you hear the doors trying to lock? The actuators in these cars fail in an odd way- they will lock with the toggle switch but not with the key, although they do make a noise like they are trying to lock. I have not encountered silence from a door actuator when trying the key. Try the hatch- it should lock when pushing the lock button and unlock when pushing the "wings" button twice. If that happens, the central locking system is probably fine- I have not heard of a hatch actuator going bad.

Here's another thing to try- roll down your windows, then close the doors. Reach in, lock the doors with the toggle switch. Try the unlock button (the "wings"). If the doors unlock the key is working and the central locking system is working- it's probably just the door actuators that don't respond to the "lock" command, a common problem.

As far as the door lock, it is a replaceable part, and the OEM one that came with your car is made out of pretty cheap pot metal. The replacement one seems to be of a better build. See my thread about my door lock here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...or-repair.html

Here's what I would try, in order:

1- It's never a good idea to have only one key for anything, much less a car. Head to a dealer with your title/registration and driver's license. Order what is called the "Universal Key without remote" for your car. Only a MINI dealer can supply you with a working key for your car. This key should run you under $100. Since your dealer is a few hours away maybe they can send it ti you. When you get it, try the door lock. If you are still unable to turn the lock the problem is with the lock, called the "catch". This part can be ordered from the dealer and it will be keyed to your existing keys (the blades should look the same). It cost me right around $120 or so and the replacement one seemed to be made out of better metal and seemed to be sturdier. Again, you will have to bring them your title and driver's license. I suppose it is possible that your door was replaced and they left the old lock in but that would be kind of surprising. If the blade from the key you just ordered looks different than the one on the remote key, either the ignition lock or the door lock was changed at some point in the car's life. The key that you ordered (based on the VIN) is the "cut" that should be associated with your car. If it works on the door and the remote key works on the ignition, you'll have to determine if that's something you can live with. If the blade on the remote key won't run the door lock because it seems damaged, PM me- I offer repairs on the first generation clamshell keys and I may be able to help you.

2- If you think your actuators are bad (see above), I would purchase at least the driver's side one from one of the reputable suppliers here (I got mine from Wade Motor Works) and have it on hand for when your new door lock arrives. Follow one of the many on-line tutorials for replacing the door actuators and swap out the lock at that time too since you will be in the door anyway. Put it all back together and hopefully you will have a door that works with both the key blade and the remote.

3- At that point, you would want to order a replacement actuator for the passenger side, since it's highly likely that one is bad as well.

Feel free to ask more questions and please post if something you try does not match up with what I predicted would happen.

Val

 

Thank you Val. Had no idea I could get a universal key without remote. That does seem like the best and cheapest first option to diagnose the issue further and hopefully end up with a key to manually unlock my doors. I'm going to call the dealer and see if they will accept a fax of my title and drivers license and have them mail a key....I have to wait a couple weeks for my title though from the dmv.

I've seen alot of mention about the actuators and I'm unclear on how to determine if they actually need replacing? My locks work fine with the central switch inside. One thing I have noticed is when starting to drive first thing the locks lock and then unlock shortly after...any ideas? I'm thinking they should lock and stay locked while driving like other vehicles I've had but this one locks then unlocks?

I'm happy to hear I can order just the part I need for the door lock but like u said I need to get that key first and see where I stand. I can deal with 2 keys if it means I can lock my car but eventually I would want to fix things to where 1 key wold work both.

You mentioned repair on my key...the key works in the ignition so wouldn't that mean it's not damaged and in need of repair?

I appreciate all of the info. This key/lock issue is priority right now. I haven't had the time to scan the airbag situation yet but did manage to get through replacing rear brakes yesterday. .....which was a bear and so glad I searched and found tips to compress those dang calipers on here! Lol

The more I read and dig into the car, it seems I think someone spent some time and money with aftermarket upgrades. JCW plates are under the hood and the back of the car....I don't know if it's factory or added. Kona shock absorbers, wilwood brake kit on the front. I notice something different every day!

 

The automatically locking doors that unlock right away combined with the lack of action when you push the key button have now lead me to two different possible problems. My wife has the auto locking enabled on her car, so I will do a bit of research tomorrow to confirm some of the following-

1- The auto locks lock and then unlock. This leads me to believe that one of the actuators is not sending the signal to the central locking system that the door is shut all the way (even though it probably is). I will shut a door partway tomorrow on the wife's car to see if it has the same effect.

2- The button on the key does not lock the doors. I will see what works and what doesn't if you try to lock the doors with one of them open. I seem to remember that the key won't lock the doors if one or both of them is open. Another possibility is that your key is not sending a lock signal. Look at the pictures in post #1 of the following thread. If your circuit board is out there should be a red LED on the board that lights up when you push either button. Also on post #6 there are pictures of the keys that should have come with your car. You have key #1 but it is key #2 that is the general/no remote key.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rbishment.html

More for you tomorrow when I observe how my wife's car behaves when the door isn't closed, etc.

Val

 

I recently replaced a key. A copy of the title, registration and my DL were emailed to the dealership along with a credit card authorization. When I tried the key it wouldn't work remotely so the guy told me to do this: Insert the working key in the ignition and turn it to the auxiliary position then remove it. Holding down the lock button on the fob, press the lock button three times and the door locks should cycle then do the same with the new key. He said I might need to do it a time or two if it doesn't work the first time. It took three tries but now it works fine.

 

You can do that with the flat, three button keys that came with the post-refresh cars such as your '06. The '04 in question has a two button clamshell style key and the car's computer must be dealer (or somebody who has figured out the programming) programmed (or re-programmed) to "accept" the key.

I don't think that's the issue here since the OP reports that it will unlock (correct?) just not lock. I tried a few things out yesterday and discovered the following:

1-My wife's auto locking doors won't lock if the driver's side is not closed all the way. I was trying to re-create the OP's problem, where they lock and then unlock for some unknown reason. It's not because the actuator thinks the door isn't closed.

2-The lock button on the key won't do anything if the driver's door is open. If I remember correctly it will lock the car if the passenger side is open.

I would still go ahead and order that general, non remote key. When that comes shoot your lock cylinder full of graphite lock cleaner/lubricant and see if gentle pressure will allow the new key to turn your lock. If that fails you could gamble and order a new driver's side actuator. When that comes take your door apart and see if the lock turns when the actuator is removed. I'm betting that it will and that replacing the original driver's side actuator will fix the not locking, locking and unlocking and key not turning problem.

You may still have to get a new lock cylinder but you can drive around for a while without a lock cylinder but with the new actuator. I know, I've done it.

Not responsible for money you may spend unnecessarily trying to diagnose this problem.

Val

 

Thank you for all of your advise Val. I think the lock/unlock issue keeps growing it seems. Now the central switch which I could have swore worked originally does nothing when pressed. This issue presented after I went to go open the rear hatch and it wouldnt open! Mind you I have had it open previously with no problems, however I did note a couple times it took more than one try to get it to close again. Anyway, back hatch wouldnt open so tried the central switch to make sure it was "unlocked" and noticed neither of the doors were locking/unlocking either. Finally got into the hatch by locating the cable under the seat and manually releasing the hatch. So now I am stuck with: #1 - key remote does not lock or unlock #2 - central switch does not lock or unlock #3 - cant manually turn key in door to lock or unlock and #4 - rear hatch wont open via the door latch anymore. Im getting so frustrated that every door and lock wont work! I cant order another key until I get my title and registration back from the dmv which they said could take a few weeks. Right now all I have is the temporary registration.

On the upside (maybe) I found a local service shop that specializes in minis, bmw, audi etc and gave them a call today. I asked them if my issues were anything they could diagnose or if dealer was my only option. Im dropping the mini off Monday to hopefully get some answers. He said it may need to go to the dealer pending what they find and if it needs programming/coding that they cant do. Also going to have him check out the airbag light since I havent had a chance to borrow a scanner and run it myself. So, I dont know if they can fix my lock problem but I am hopeful at the very least to diagnose the problem and whats needed to fix it. Till then I'm dead in the water on getting a key right now and not knowing what direction I need to go in to resolve. I'll follow up next week if I get any answers. Thanks again for all of the info so far.